hongsit

Sorted, didnt realise there was another fuse box in the drivers footwell, however, the heated seat fuse was the most akward fuse to get to, sods law!

Hi all, I have a Lexus IS200 Sport with heated seats. After changing back to a standard stereo setup, my heated seats both (passenger and driver) is not working. Both switches don't light up and I have waited about 5minutes, just in case it was just the switch LEDs, but the seats aren't heating up. Is there a separate fuse for the heated seats? All I see is a fuse for Electric seats going by the diagram in the fuse box cover. The electric seats are workin fine, so I assume that fuse is ok. Anyway, I've checked the fuses and all seems ok. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Yeah, the F1s are certainly good, glad I went with them. Going to get the part from the breakers..then will book her in again...can't wait

Tony, been trying to get the park, the two places you mentioned don't stock, so i may need to get it from lexus. Do I need anything else, lower ball joints, bushes? or is just the arm? Sorry, not familiar with what that part comes with or what is needed for fitting. Anyway, driving the car over roads which previous gave me big problems.. all of that has changed... no longer does it pull left and right, its how it should be... smile is back on my face when driving... All you need is the "track control arm".... It is the only component on the front that has a horizontal bushing..... If you have any problems ordering this part then call me and i will explain to them. As for the change in handling.... I know mate, that's because i corrected the rear..... You have better things to come. Ok, thanks Tony, I'll do some more digging around, other than that Lexus.

yep, driving it yday night back home, and these tyres are great, fully recommend them. Haven't used the tyres in the wet, but im sure it will cope :-)

Tony, been trying to get the park, the two places you mentioned don't stock, so i may need to get it from lexus. Do I need anything else, lower ball joints, bushes? or is just the arm? Sorry, not familiar with what that part comes with or what is needed for fitting. Anyway, driving the car over roads which previous gave me big problems.. all of that has changed... no longer does it pull left and right, its how it should be... smile is back on my face when driving...

I went for the Asymmetrics and so far so good, lot of grip.. i had the windows open on the way back, so can't quite make out how quiet they are, going out now so find out now. :-)

Just got back from WIM, had 4 new tyres (goodyear F1's) and a geo setup. Bad news is that I need a new Track Control Arm so couldn't complete the setup. Got to say, Tony and Mark are top blokes, they had time to explain things over rather than just do the job and grab the money. Tony, thanks for explaining whats wrong with my car, I'll get the part as soon as and book it back in for fitting. I must say, even though I only had the rears adjusted slightly, it feels a LOT more solid, less twitchy, I feel more in control of the car. I feel I can corner properly now. Not sure if it's the tyres, im sure is a comination of both. I can't wait to I get the fronts sorted and get rid of that twitchyness altogether! I highly recommend anybody looking to get any alignment done, to get yourself to WIM. The setup they have there is pretty impressive. The guys are knowledgable, helpful and really do an excellent job. Also met a couple of members there, nice meeting you guys! May see you there again :-) Chi

Umm.. ok still not 100% sure. Think I have to leave it for another day to be more confident that its my install thats giving the problems. Anyway, I stopped and started the car a few more times and it does start but there was one time it just didnt fire... can stop starting the engine without going anywhere cause these symptoms... anyway, it was better than yday when the car just didnt fire at all.. but i'm getting really paranoid now. I've taken the meter readings and nothing showed up, any readings i got were when the key was in click 1 and 2. Here is the pic of my install hope you can make out what i have done

Ok, cheers buddy.. see if I need one of those. I just tried starting the car, after taking out the B2 install yday, so the car has been idle about 18hrs or so. It started 1st time, no probs. I'm going to leave it for another day and try again.. in the mean time and going to check out the meter readings and take some pics. It seems like something I have done is draining the battery big time, cause a new batt seems to have drained within 20hrs.

Yes mate - to the cig lighter plug there is a switched live, earth and lighting feed (the ring that lights up around it when your lights are on) Meter each lead with respect to earth, with and without the lights on / with and without the ignition on and you'll see which is which. haha, just reading your initial post again, and i'm just confused now. lol, sorry just thick when it comes to electronics. I don't think I spliced of the lighting. The blade connectors you see in my intial post just connects the plugs you get that join the cig. lighter. I'm sure you know that the plugs is under the gear stick console thing. The think the lighting for the cig ligter ring is another plug. I left that untouched. I did take out the plug for the ash tray light out as I found that to be constantly on (I removed the ash tray, thats where the B2 sits.) I havent noticed any change in light to the origin, havent really paid any attention. I was just assuming that if the key is out of the ignition everything switches off, i.e. cig lighter ring light gets switched off, no power to cig lighter. Sorry just trying to picture the scenario you mentioned and how it can be a problem. I post pics up 2night that may help...

Thanks for the reply The battery is new, fitted 2 days ago. I replaced the batt cause i initially thought this problem was due to a dying battery. However it has continued to happen, which has led me to believe it's something I have done... I took out my install for the time being, and tonight would be my fist test. If it doesn't start then it's a duff battery.. so back to ABM. If it does start, then I leave it for another day to make sure. Then I look at my dodgy wiring. I certainly am no electrician and not that much about electronics, so I may have done a bodge job. I try to take some pictures of exactly how I connected it up, maybe that would help. I will do the meter test. What do you mean taken from one of the lighting? I only been joining the cig ligher plug with my own wires and splicing of that.. is there a lighting plug or wire somewhere near that?

Hi, this is what is called a voltage drop,which is coming off the ign system.u need to fit a relay between the joints.this will happen to most fuel injected car with a low amp fuel pump.a relay stops that.if u need to know how to connect the relay,i will post them tonight when i get home.hope this helps B) TERRY Thanks Terry, that sounds interesting... I'm kinda convinced it's something I did fitting my B2, just seems too much of a coincidence that it started behaving funny after I fitted the B2. Do you know why it's starts absolutely perfect after I driven it (with the B2 fitted)? Yes, would like to know how to fit the relay. Thanks Chi

The only thing ive done is to join the cig lighter plug with two wires allowing me to splice off. All works ok and the b2 powers off when i take keys out. All looks ok and cant think of what it could be. The car started ok this morn, after being idle for 8hrs. But yday morning was ok too, 2night will b the test. I'll then think about taking it back to abm. May give them a call now. I only had one new batt 2days ago. If this continues im wondering did i need a new batt at all.

I dont think so, i'll check anyway. It started ok once i drove it, no problem at all, its only when i leave it for a good 10hrs or so. Abm tried starting it and it didnt start, checked alternter and thats ok. Put new bat in and it started. I leave it overnight and it fails to start.