UKKid35

Why two keys?

Is it impossible to program an extra key if one key is lost?

That set looks like good value, but if you fit it only to find it doesn't work, that would be tragic

I thought it would be worth getting a quote for a set of Keys/ECUs from 'LexusBreakers' as I was curious about the cost, even though I'm still not intending to do a dash-out job

"Hi sorry we have none in stock at present"

That suggests this is a fairly common problem, surely?

7 minutes ago, Lex_utor said:

Like now I can't open any windows from the driver's door, apart from the driver's window.

That's happens if you disconnect the Battery, there's a process documented for re-initialising them

Seems absurd that should be necessary though

Yes that is possible, but I thought it unlikely that the clutch pedal switch and both key fobs developed faults at the same time

Another module that has been mentioned on the US forums is the Central Body Control Module Unit 8921153020, which looks like some sort of secondary fuse box

Any idea what it's supposed to do?

2 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

I did it myself and paid ~£200 for the parts and countless hours doing it, because dash has to come out to get to ID Code Box. 

I am happy to do work on cars, usually. But this is my parents' car, 120 miles away from where I am, the car lives outside, and it would only be in order to sell it.

I don't see a dash-out job in my future, but I'm also unsure how to get the car removed!

13 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Had to do the same - It is called ID Code box and full list of parts requires is: the ID Code Box, steering lock (column removal not required, one can simply replace PCB inside the lock) and keys. They have to match smart key module part number and power source ECU. Then they need to be programmed to main ECU. 

This sounds like it would cost more than the value of the car - 2006, 112k on the clock with age related exterior marks

Thanks for your feedback, but it was this that confused me in your post:

Quote

 turns out a connection had gone a 'bit bad' and damaged (burnt) a wire which then damaged again the control box..

So my question is, was that thought to be the original cause of the failure, or do you think that happened while various people were working on the car?

This issue is not exactly the same as

Lexus IS220 start button won't turn green help

but it is similar

Behaviour is the same with both key fobs, no problem with keyless entry, but neither key is recognised by the start button in that it does not go green when pressed

Also it does not go green when either fob is brought close to the button, and it does not make any difference if the clutch is pressed

Obviously pressing the button when the LED is not illuminated does nothing, there are no messages on the dash

It is possible to generate some messages on the dash, for instance you can change the Door Unlock Mode from drivers door only, to all doors, and back again, using the fob buttons

It is also possible to access the Intrusion Senson On/Off menu, using the satellite buttons

At no point does the 'Key Not Recognised' message appear

The fob batteries are new, the car Battery is fully charged, headlights are bright, systems that work without the car in ACC mode work well and are not sluggish

When the fob buttons are used to unlock the car, the Start button text is illuminated in green, therefore the start button is powered, however the LED is never illuminated

Neither fob have been water damaged or dropped, so it seems that whatever links the keys to the ignition has somehow failed, because the keyless entry works fine

I have seen the "POWER SOURCE CONTROL MODULE MPX PSC 89670-53120" mentioned on a US forum, is that module coded or is it a straight swap? It sounds extremely difficult to reach though...

Because of where the car is parked, and because of the electronic steering lock, I doubt it would be possible to get to car towed

What are my options, bearing in mind that the car is worth no more than a grand, and my parents want to sell the car anyway?