jamesbradbury

Hi guys,

Didn't want to create yet another thread on the rear AC but ah well. I've got a leak in the usual place above the fuel tank. I know I have the option to cap it off and just move on without the rear ac. The other option seems to be to fit some flexi hose between the front and rear to potentially bypass the rusty pipes. Has anyone DIYed or had a garage successfully do this?

I'd rather keep the rear AC functional and have seen someone in the US do this but the guide isn't that clear.

If I get the front capped off is it likely the back will never work again or would it be possible at a later date to try and reverse this to get the rear back. Thanks guys

Turns out I'm going to need a full exhaust in the next 6 months or so. Tempted to go crazy and get a valved one but just sure I've got the budget for it. Leaking y pipe is causing the eml now.

8 minutes ago, Brik said:

Hmm, you certainly got a bargain!

How is the front section of the exhaust? It was blowing between the o2 sensors on the Y pipe when I owned the car.

Glad it's mot'd and back on the road, enjoy.

Haha yep. No the Y pipe is apparently OK but I'm not sure how long it'll last. The sunglass holder, sunroof rust and a few other bits. She's going well!

On 1/25/2024 at 2:38 PM, hockeyedwards said:

Took the battery off the CTEK trickle, stuck it back in the car and fired for the first time in a while, popped her down to the body shop to get some small marks sorted out that were noticed when she came back the first time from having lip kit. Looking forward to having everything mint.

On a side note, the drivers side inner door rubber that the glass sits on has perished 😞 (found by the body shop) as I asked them to investigate the slo-mo window travel time up/down. So will be trying to source a replacement sometime over the weekend.

Also depserately in need of some DHP wheels centre caps, I hear they are usually found at the end of rainbows...

Let me know how you go with sourcing new rubber. I've got the same issue and can't find anything. I also don't want to remove it and refit it because it seems its held on with rivets and I won't be able to put it back in place.

It was a pretty tight fit. I've taken them off now and will get pipes welded on. The back box delete is fairly quiet and can't really be heard in the cabin. I might get them sorted properly at some point.

Videos aren't very clear, the sound can't be too loud! When I had new mufflers they rubbed on the boot floor and made a noise at idle. If they are aftermarket mufflers they almost certainly won't be as quiet as oem but you'll have a hard time working it out via videos.

For sale: A pair of Lexus LS430 back boxes that are now surplus to requirements. Bought to pass an MOT but now I have a back box delete. They silence the car completely and don't have any rust on them at all.

Item Condition: When they were removed they were cut so they will need welding on. Good condition otherwise.

Price and price conditions: £120 ono

Extra Info: na

Pictures:

Contact Details: 07885677276

Location: Patchway, Bristol

Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Buyer can organise delivery if they would like but collection preferred.

Hi guys,

I'm currently in the process of completely dismantling the interior of my LS430. Most of it is out as you can see in the attached picture and I have just removed the headliner. My next task will be removing the sunroof to sort the rust. I will be taking it out completely.

Once the sunroof is removed it won't have any power and I'm wondering if that will cause any issues getting to the rust. I'm thinking I'll just scrape it off and paint it. Should I remove it half open or just leave it shut.

My car also has a strong "old man" smell (no offence to any here that have more life experience than me) and I would like to remove it. I will steam and wash the carpet once it's out but I think it's all coming from the headliner. What would be the best way to clean it. I assume steaming it will ruin it and make it all floppy?

Is there anything else I should do while the car is gutted that anyone can think of? I'm not in a rush as this is my second car sat in my garage. Thanks!

Did you get anywhere with this? I have a similar issue I'd like to sort before summer! Cheers

Update:

Turns out that £100 exhaust was 3 streets down from my house so I walked over and picked it up.

The garage refused to fit it due to the rust on my current exhaust so I decided to try myself. I managed to cut the old one off without causing damage and fit the new one. It has now passed!

The only issue is because it is a facelift exhaust it doesn't quite fit right and touches the boot floor causing a vibration through the cabin. It's not loud but I'll need to either get a pre facelift exhaust or somehow stop the vibration with rubber or something.

Fantastic find on eBay there, can't believe I didn't see them as I'm in Bristol too. With any luck I can fit them and be sorted. For a £1500 LS430 I'd be happy with 1 simple to fix fail on the MOT. Cheers guys

Hi guys, my LS430 failed its MOT due to both back boxes being rusty. They said they can't patch it so I need a new exhaust. I've attached some pictures of the holes. Anyone had a decent exhaust fitted in the South West or know more than me about exhaust patching. Trying to work out the best solution as I've not got much cash at the moment. Cheers

Hi guys,

Couldn't see anything online and managed to fix my issue so thought I'd share. Basically the small shade over the rear door glass was not retracting well on one side and not at all on the other.

To solve I removed the shade mechanism (just pull them hard and they'll pop out) then took them apart a bit.

First, pry along the blue lines (pic 1) and take the foam/clips piece off which will give you more room for the next part. Bare in mind you will need to glue it back so you can probably do it without this step.

Second, push the metal piece down and then pull the roll of shade out and away (you'll find the metal piece spins) (pic 2 & 3)

You then need to pull the metal thing out a few mm and wind it anti clockwise until the shade is tight. I did this with pliers and then pushed the metal end back in the slot and it should stay.

If this is done correctly and you have no other problems with the spring you should have a retracting shade again. It's a difficult one to explain but I've tried my best.

Oo fantastic stuff thank you. I'll see if I can check signals out of the amp although I'm colourblind so should be interesting haha.

Yeah the speaker works when plugged into the rear door so it's definitely OK. Do you know if there's an external crossover for the dash tweeter and door speaker? I might be able to take a wire from there directly to the door speaker.

I've never heard to them referred to as squawkers but you learn something new. I'd call the parcel shelf one a subwoofer but either way. Yeah basically when I balance/fade to front right only the tweeter plays. Anyone know how to get to all the wiring between the two?

Hi guys,

I've gone through the process of refoaming every speaker in the car and it all went well. I now have sound through every speaker in the car except the drivers door woofer.

The tweeter is playing fine and I've swapped the front and rear speaker which both work when connected to the back so the actual speaker is fine, it just isn't getting signal. Does anyone know how the front speakers are wired from the amp? Is it parallel or series with the tweeter? Are there any common cable problems? I don't fancy tracing the cable from the speaker all the way to the amp.

Thanks

Thanks, yeah good shout. If it fails again I'll be doing that.

Just repaired my sunglasses holder with a sticky button and thought I'd share. I haven't seen the method I used to fix it.

First I removed the holder. You don't need to disconnect it just take it apart so it's dangling. Pry at the plastic light diffuser thing and pull it out (blue) then undo all 4 bolts (red).

Then on the back remove 2 small bolts (red) and pull 1 tap and the switch will come out. This is all online

I realised my switch was loose and wouldn't spring back and couldn't see anything online to fix it. However, if you push the plastic pin (red) all the way out the switch will come apart, I did this with a small metal nail. Take note of how it fits together and all you need to do is take it apart and yank the spring inside so it is longer. This will make it push harder. Put it all back together and if nothing is broken it will work.