Tony9r

16 minutes ago, gdh300 said:

Is that 10mph consistent across all speeds? That's quite odd, suggests the speedo may be sticking as anything tyre or differential related you'd imagine would a percentage out, not a fixed amount. My IS under-reads by about 10% compared to road side displays and satnav.

Yes it's consistent. When pulling off, the Speedo only starts to move after around 8mph...

17 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

I don't think there are any obvious markings so you can really only tell by actually testing the ratio. Jack up a wheel, put it in neutral, then turn the wheel one revolution whilst at the same time counting the revolutions of the prop shaft. There isn't much in it, just under four revs for a manual diff, and just over 4 for the auto.

IS200 manual 43:11 (3.900)

IS200 auto 41:10 (4.100)

Thanks, will take a look next time I'm under the car.

10 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Is this a UK vehicle or import? Auto or manual?

Can't rule out a sticking needle but could also be because the wrong diff has been fitted.

It's a UK auto Colin. How would I know if diff has been changed?

Just now, ColinBarber said:

What are the size of the tyres?

215/45 17

2 minutes ago, NemesisUK said:

Not only a pain but also illegal...

What are you comparing it with?

Driving alongside in other cars, also those radar speed sensor displays at the side of the road.

My wife's 1999 IS200 speedometer is reading nearly 10mph slower than actual road speed which is a pain at speed cameras etc!

Been like this since we bought it. Wheels and tyres are all standard size.

Is there a fix... I've reset ecu but no different?

TYIA.

Well, I think we are going to go for the UK one to be on the safe side, as I know it's exactly the same as whats in the car now.

£175 is pretty steep, but just found out the price includes free next day delivery and 1 years warranty 

Many thanks for all your input guy's 

8 hours ago, TigerFish said:

None at any breakers?

Thought about it, but knowing my luck it would also be knackered! 

Just noticed that the rad I'm looking at from the states doesn't have the fitting for the expansion tank pipe... 

43 minutes ago, Britprius said:

Yes the cap is available from motor factors, and is pretty much standard. Perhaps surpisingly an ordinary pressure cap can be used in this position without problems.

John

Thanks John

8 hours ago, Britprius said:

Having the cap on the radiator does make it easier to fill the system without air locks.

The system with a rad cap only uses a flat non pressurised cap "no one way valve" on the rad the pressure cap being on the expansion tank.

Filling the system should be done through the radiator cap filling to the brim. Any coolant expansion that takes place will go into the expansion tank, and be drawn back from the tank to the rad as the liquid cools, and contracts.

John

Thanks John, the rad from the states doesn't include the cap, is it a standard fit that I can get from a motor factors?

21 hours ago, soramad said:

As the cooling system has a header/expansion tank the radiator filler cap is really superfluous hence the bleed screw on the later models, so either rads will be ok to fit this also applies to the SC series  

Thank you ;)

21 hours ago, TigerFish said:

This is mine if it helps

Sent from my iPhone using Lexus OC

Thanks Rick, that's how the one looks from the states ;)

Tell me about it, here's the actual pic of the top of the rad which I captured from a video I had

Hi Rick, only have this diagram of the radiator showing the bleed screw taken from the uk sellers site.

Hi all,

I'm looking for a new radiator for my sons 2001 GS430, I can only find 1 for sale here in UK at £175 plus postage.

But it would be a lot cheaper to get one from the states including delivery, duty etc.

Only thing is, the american ones have the filler cap, but ours have a bleed screw instead.

Does anybody know if this would still be ok as a replacement?

Tony.

I have not had a chance yet mate, but the hack is still working fine 

PM sent Rick 

Thanks mate 

Well I did the "hack" and it works , but I would still like to replace the faulty sensor. Could you still send me the pages from the manual if possible Rick?

I'm pretty confident with diy on cars, just this one seems to be a major operation!

I don't know when the new sensor will turn up... I keep looking at the Bobster hack repair over on CL which would be a temporary fix as my boy needs the car for work (he delivers pizza's in it can you believe!!!).

Would be great if you could send me the relevant pages from the manual, that should give me some more confidence... pity about the photo's!

Cheers 

Tony.

Thanks mate 

Hi Rick, tried to PM you but says your inbox is full.

I've seen a topic where you mention you (may) have changed the knock sensor on your 430?

My boy now has my 430 and it bogs down giving the PO325 code - knock sensor bank 1. He has ordered a new sensor from the states.

Is it a difficult job removing the manifold, and will we need to replace any gaskets?

If anybody else have experience with this, please feel free to chip in 

Anyone???????????????

Could admin please delete this post as I put it in wrong section!