SteveLS400

Hi.

Its longtime no contact from me. I have been unwell for ages but feel a bit better now.

The MK3 side repeaters are identical to the early MR2 which makes them easy to obtain. I have them. Dont forget the orange bulbs.

Cheers Steve,must be these then ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOYOTA-MR2-1-91-SIDE-REPEATER-INDICATOR-CRYSTAL-CLEAR-/400375352479?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model:MR+2&hash=item5d383b0c9f

I wish I could help, but sadly I haven't a clue how to resolve the issue you have BUT certain someone will be along soon to advise...................

It's not just the needles sticking is it ? Mine sometimes does that and a slight tap resolves it all or it just springs back into go-mode after a mile or two.

Presuming the dash lights up ok ?

By the way, you probably now have the lowest mileage Mk3 ever !!! well done, just keep it forever won't you ???

Malc

Hi Malc

The reason I took the dash out was to check the free movement of the needles. They were fine.

Its a pity mileages are noted on the MOT computer, otherwise you would be spot-on :hocus-pokus:

Hi again.

As part of my removing the dash display to solve speedo and other issues, I inadvertently disconnected the unit below the main dash which contains the security warning light for the immobiliser and the dimmer switch for the dash light. Upon refitting, the remote central locking doesn't work and the immobiliser doesn't work although the dimmer does work.

The control unit under the bonnet beeps as normal when the remote is pressed but the indicators which should flash in unison, don't. The alarm does not work.

The question there for is; what have I unwittingly done and what can I do to fix it?

I've had the baby for years but these past few years I have been too unwell to involve myself with her. Despite her age she cost £20 to get through her last MOT and there aren't many 19 year old cars you can say that about. Anyway, I'm now trying to get rid of a few niggles. Hopefully the first of these has been resolved by having a new piece welded in the exhaust.

For sometime now the speedo has stopped working except on rare occasions. I use satnav for keeping to the speed limit. The really annoying part is no speed means no cruise control. In addition, the odometer also stopped working at the same time. About 3 years ago, the garage I was using managed to zero the odometer whilst trying to get the immobiiser off having disconnected the Battery and not followed my instruction to contact me which they still had to do. Nevertheless the odometer continued to work albeit from zero. The rev counter has worked throughout.

I recently had the entire display out to check all connections and to ensure that the speedo was not stuck. I reassembled the unit and was pleased that the speedo and odometer worked as did the temperature gauge which hadn't done so for years. All good? Er, no.

After a week it all packed-in again except Christmas week when all but the temp worked. For one journey. I'm told by my exhaust man that nothing appears to be missing/disconnected from the gearbox from which I am assuming the speedo is driven.

Given that I have disabilities and my income is severely limited, are there any fixes that I could do/have done?

I really would be grateful.

Hi.

Its longtime no contact from me. I have been unwell for ages but feel a bit better now.

The MK3 side repeaters are identical to the early MR2 which makes them easy to obtain. I have them. Dont forget the orange bulbs.

And again ............ this mini heatwave is maybe expanding the solder joints rather than shrinking them ...... the backlights have been as good as gold !

The cold weather, when the backlights vanished, maybe shrunk the joints ?

Heat and drying out or heat and metal ( solder ) expanding versus cold and NOT drying out and cold and metal shrinking !

Well, I don't know BUT it's keeping good and well so far touch wood.

Malc

It will go again, I'm afraid but you are right about the warmer weather affecting the joint/s

And I'm happy to report that my elderly lady now has a new MOT.

Advisory on Slight corrosion to a rear brake pipe. But sadly a broken O/S/F spring. I know when it happened and by whom. Not lending the baby out again is all I will say (unless pressed).

The point however is that a 16 year old has passed another test which, if the owner hadn't been foolish enough to lend her out, would have been the 2nd time without any problem. I love her :winky:

I love the Over logo.

I have had various Rovers in the past. The worst was a new 820 which was the biggest bag of proverbial you could get. In more recent times I have had 2 827's. The last one a restoration project bodywise but mechanicaly good. The previous one was amongst the best cars I have ever owned. In fact I would rank it 4th

1 LS400

2 Shogun

3 Galant

4 827

I have test driven various Rovers for son/daughter in the past including an auto 216 which, when it did change gear, was like running into a wall.

Hi

From my research (bloody hours and hours!) mobile 3309 ATF is the same as Toyota T-TIV and a lot of knowledgeable oil blokes say they make it for Toyota, whether that is true I can't say buy it seems that way. Apparently they make the ATF for Volvo's that use the AW boxes too and that is also the same as T-TIV.

As far as I can tell AW is a sub division of Toyota anyway.

Hi

As I have said for a long time, someone must make Type TIV because Toyota don't make oil.

Don't suppose you saved any links from your research - which if proven - is a great piece of work. I've give up a few times.

I'm afraid I wouldn't let anyone near mine to change a cam belt for so little.

It suggests he does not know what is involved. Of course he might be excellent but it could be a very expensive learning curve.

Got one in my sights at the moment but hope it doesnt go much higher or her indoors will kill me!

She won't complain when you take her out in it!

Hello Everyone,

I bought my car in January and have had very few problems with it until Sat when I tried to turn it on and acted normal for a split second and died. My husband jumped it and it was fine. The same thing happened again this morning and when he tried to jump it again, the car wouldn't start. It doesn't seem like its the battery bc all the interior lights and sounds are normal. The check engine light has been on and that is for a transmission problem solenoid e, which I will get fixed later. He did have to clean this green stuff from around the battery--just not sure if its the starter or the alternator--any thoughts/help would be appreciated.

Hi

Get the spanners out and tighten the barrery terminal bolts and trace the earth and tighten the other end of that.

Then go to a suitable depot to have the Battery condition checked. If its good, sounds like alternator so let them check the charging rate at the same time. Here in the UK, a suitable place would be a tyre/battery/exhaust depot and they are always happy to check these out for free.

Hi and welcome

I also confess to rarely viewing the New Members sub-forum.

My 95 MkIII has done 192k and drives much better than most new cars and I'm definately looking for 300k.

the mk4 ('98 on) i think are the better choice.

for: - better fuel econemy & more power , better interior (I prefer the seats over earlier ones).

against: - the sat nav sucks balls (compared to a £50 modern one).

either way , the ls400 boot can accomodate 3 average sized adults , so a few suitcases + tank shouldn't be an issue.(and definetly not if its in the spare wheel well.

gold badges were an option when bought. means nothing but has a gold badge. (also £10 on ebay lol).

we could also order extra mats and things , but nothing thats an actual feature of the car.

there is the DHP models , with handling pack , stiffer suspention bigger wheels etc..

thats the only ls400 variant afaik.

the usa had a few options , the satnav was an extra item for them , where it was standard here (shame)

and they could specify to NOT to have leather if they realy wanted ?

Can't really add anything to that regarding the car, just go see a few, fall in love and never part.

Just had new NSF and NSR wheel bearings fitted and whilst it has definitely made a big difference, there is still some harshness and noise which I suspect is a rubber bushing of some sort, as the car is always quieter on a wet day.

We tend to have the windows up in the wet

There was a post within this last week or so about quietening everything down by squirting everything with WD40, and what you have in the wet is cool and water. If you wait till the hot dry weather (you know that day in June) it will creak like and old galleon. Get a supplier of WD40.

The photograph of the struts on fleabay is not particularly good but the definately aren't for a MKIII, so they may well be MKIV.

The price, however is pretty much what I paid.

Hi All.

I'm still trying to remove the rack from my UCF20 LS400.

I have the feed and return pipes disconnected and both brackets off along with the outer rod ends. However, despite days of trying, I cannot get the rack off the vehicle.

There is play between the steering shaft and the rack so it's not stuck onto the shaft. I can move it towards the driver side a good bit but then it gets jammed.

The repair manual says to take the steering wheel off but I can't see what good that would do plus I need a special tool.

Are there any tips or advice for doing this please?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers,

Ken.

edit: - It appears to be jamming between the suspension cross member and the transmission. Is it worth putting some upward pressure on the transmission to gain some clearance or is this too dangerous?

You could try PMing Benfur. He breaks these and often knows techniques to remove parts and fittings.

I can confirm that rear discs and pads are easy to change.

The parking brake shoes, on the other hand, are a complete :tsktsk: !

Thanks. BTW, what would be the reason for changing the parking brake shoes? Surely they don't wear out. I don't think I've applied my foot brake more than a handful of times in over 3 years. Maybe I should apply it more often to keep it from seizing?

The parking brake shoes have been known to break-up. Also, the parking brake is relatively naff. With a big V8, you'd hardly notice if it was on esp. if the warning light is out.

Hi! mikesands I just read in another russian forum about that problem. and it fixeble. just need to give a good clean and lube internal parts of compressor.it will save u $$$$

American dollars and Russian in one post, must be a 1st. Advice must be woth trying, mind.

Hiya Guys (and girls) - I have a Series 3 LS400. Can anyone tell me whether this should have a warning light on the dash if one of the bulbs fails.If there is a relay or unit or whatever its called where is it hidden (think I have seen them on ebay). Thanks in anticipation.

Sssshhh this could invoke a recall of all Lexus vehicles. The only non-original bulb on mine is in the clear front indicators I fitted.

Yes there is but not for all lights, and off hand I can't recall which ones are covered by the system.

Why do you ask?

really no rush as I hv paid full cash.

Glad there's no rush

Expect to get half what you paid any more is a bonus. Short term ownership almost never pays. Within this last 4 or 5 months a poster on here decided to offer his back to the dealer and got half the purchase price.

I paid £2.5k for my baby on a windscreen price of £3750 and now she's probably worth tuppence on the open market. HOWEVER I've had 5+ years of total delight.

I'm totally ashamed to admit that I have parking sensors and the radio was a bit too loud for me to hear them. Pathetic eh?

It happens. Best increase the volume on the ps system. This is 1 horror none of us want to re-occur.

It may not actually be smoother-riding, just quieter without the creaks - so you think it's smoother. I always feel my car runs better when it's just been washed and hoovered out, even though that can't make any difference mechanically. Maybe in some weird corner of the subconscious, a clean car feels more like a new one, and so less worn? This is probably why I always clean it thoroughly before I put it in for an MOT - so it will at least give the impression of being well cared for! Anyway, I'm pleased you had such good results from your 10 minutes of WD40-ing.

Agree entirely. Get some quality polish on it and it hardly disturbs the air as you glide through it.

In a moment of absolute idiocy yesterday, I managed to reverse the offside rear corner of my beautiful LS 430 into a bollard.

After I'd finished crying I realised that I don't know of any good car body repairers in North East London or Essex that could do a good job for me without it costing the earth. I'm not putting this through insurance so I need to finance the job myself - so looking for good value as well as good quality.

Anyone got any suggestions?

Ouch, nasty. Please accept my sympathies.

Cant answer the question but what I can say is definately have parking sensors fitted; absolute godsend. The best time to have them fitted is when the bumber needs repainting as this will.

I tow with mine, not sure what the maximum weight I've pulled is, but probably in the order of 1.5 tons. I don't have the supplementary oil cooler, although the "hot smell" I get after a long journey is suggesting I really ought to get one...

However, despite the lack of supplementary oil cooler, the car tows extremely well, and pulls hard when asked. Fuel economy takes a tumble if you're towing at 70+, but if you stick to 50-60mph then you'll not see much difference from normal driving.

I bought my towbar from TowEquipe, it's the removable ball type (not that I've ever removed it), and requires a small square cutting out of the bumper, and fitted it myself with my old man helping.

Mine is a swan neck designed to fit without the need to cut the bumper, that might be why its a bit low. When I ran 827's, they had a removable panel in the bumber. Guess Lexus' weren't designed with towing in mind.