SteveLS400

This is symptomatic of gradual failure. The backlights will work less and less often until they give up the ghost. Its only a pain at night but a big pain.

The fix we've devised, involves removing the rogue resistors altogether and replaceing them on the underside of the main board and that definately needs a magnifying glass to follow the circuit in order to pick up the contact points for soldering.

Are you and Benfur going to offer this fix to us MkIII owners with this problem at some time soon? It's the one thing that drives me mental about my car, and MkIII radio's don't come up for sale that often, whichg seems to be the only fix for shaky handed solderers like myself!

I'm just glad there are owners like you that identify how to fix problems like this.

I'm hoping the fix is permanent - hence my testing it. Benfur's are all breakers so testing is difficult.

Thanks for your help with this guys................... so far ................. I had Chris Vince sort out my dash lights a couple of years back ..... he seems to be a whizz with the soldering iron I think.

Maybe I'll contact him to see what it's all about.... there's noway that I'm adept at doing this fix myself saidly.

ALSO the other day I noticed that one end of one dash needle ( the speedo ) is starting to blacken-up ........ guess it's the same age related problems ?

Penny for your thoughts please.

Thanks.

Malc

Yup, same age related issue.

Hi guys,

For the first time yesterday the radio backlights didn't appear until about 15 miles into my journey !

Radio / CD worked fine, just no lights. The car hadn't been used since Sunday tho' and I just wonder if it's going to be a recurring feature or if it's just damp or whatever coz it's not been used for 5 days.

It shoudn't be the bulbs coz they all sprung to life eventually.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks

Malc

This is symptomatic of gradual failure. The backlights will work less and less often until they give up the ghost. Its only a pain at night but a big pain.

The problem is likely to be the failure of 1 or more resistors most probably due to dry joints. Benfur and I have been fixing MKIII issues and I currently have one on test. There being no useful info available for MKIII's. However, there are fixes available on tinterweb for MK's I, II and IV. You will have to Google them I'm afraid.

Apart from screw driver and the ability to remove the unit from the car, you will need a fine point soldering iron and either a bench-mounted magnifying glass or those special binocular-style glasses. You can't use a hand held because you cant solder and hold it and you cant see properly if someone holds it (the magnifier!!!) for you. The resistors in the MKIII are only a couple of mm long and imagine the same applies to other MK's.

The fix we've devised, involves removing the rogue resistors altogether and replaceing them on the underside of the main board and that definately needs a magnifying glass to follow the circuit in order to pick up the contact points for soldering.

Is there nowhere in the uk to get clear light stuff?

I spent weeks research and found no UK suppliers.

Again, as with the seat height issue, i'm just happy its as it should be and there's nothing broke

Just out of interest... on the drivers seat heater, has anyone had this "fixed" by a garage or somewhere? Don't know if specialists exist for such things?

Hi. Its not a specialist job, you can diy. Ive done it on other cars and the gain isn't worth the pain.

Hi All, First post on here though I've been a regular reader in the past. Just got my 3rd Lexus, a '95 LS400 with is pretty tidy and 144k on the clock. My previous cars were quite new and required no attention what so ever so this "mature" LS is a new departure for me. Anyway, to the point! The car is generally great and I'm very pleased for there are some issues to sort out which would make me even happier. Advice on all or any of the points much appreciated.

• Drivers seat height adjustment - it will move in either direction but doesn't seem to go down anywhere near low enough
  
• I think the climate control works but if I hit the front screen demist button nothing happens
  
• A flapping noise on pull away from the engine which stops once you get above about 25 mph
  
• 3 out of 4 heated seats work but not the drivers (switch lights up)
  
• Got a leaky sidelight that fills up like a goldfish bowl! Need a new one or easy fix?
  

Thats it for now I think. Loving the car but just want to make it perfect!!! B)

Many thanks

Even the perfect car might have the odd issue fron time to time. Even Clarkson described it as (probably) the best car ever made!!

Mine is also a '95 MkIII.

At 6'2 I have never had an issue with the seat; tip the long adjuster front and back until the swab is virtually on the floor.

Please be a little more desciptive re C/C and front demist. C/C will set the a/c if you hit (I'm using modern terms )auto. Revs will increase. The f/s demist will overide the auto and the blower will direct everything to screen. The orange light will come on. Does some or all of this happen?

Notwithstanding other suggestions, the flapping noise may be due to engine cover or wheel arch liners, something trapped between the grill and condenser (front radiator to some folks), something trapped in the air intake or previous owner clinging on for dear life .

Heated seat needs new element. Most dont bother because of the difficulty of fitting and warms it up in moments due to quality of upholstery.

Side light issue; in some years of ownership and membership on here, this is the 1st time I've knowingly come across such an issue. They are not easy to get to so I would suggest aquisition of a replacement from Benfur ( use the pm facility, he's a trusted member). In the meantime drill a small hole for drainage.

Hi all my ls has fallen foul and failed its MOT on the bushes of The rear upper control arms both sides. I have found that Cheap toyota parts are currently selling the arms at £170 each.

Ihave also found an American site on Ebay selling the bushes for said arms at Approx £41.00 a set. ( 2 sets per side) item no 180625409260, Autowearhouse is their name. Having spoken

to them via ask a question, a very quick response and also extremely helpful. Hope this is of some use, to other members. All the best, Allan.

Info like that is always good. Let us know how it goes when you get them.

Its a 1994 reg, its got plenty of oil in it.

How do i check if the selector is loose?

Edit: The reverse lights are coming on.

I'll have a look on the Mitchell Repair disk if you need assistance. From memory its Fluid level check > Cable check (esp kickdown) >selector check >PNR reset.

Mine also does this but the problem goes away when the brakes are freshly serviced,my theory is worn calliper pins causing it and by regreasing them the noise goes but comes back when the grease dries out again.

The pins cost around a tenner each so I may try replacing them next time just to confirm my theory.

Thanks, that makes sense. I've had the problem for over a year but last summer I got a mechanic to check it out, he said he couldn't find a problem either but greased the caliper and it was hardly noticable for a few months.

Certainly backs up your theory. I need to replace the discs so I'll do that at the same time.

Couple of points; is it a definate noise. I know its a strange question. Do you get any feed back up the s/w?

Again,another strange question, whats the background to the disc change?

I am currently running a IS200 and getting 19mpg. Doesnt seem to matter how i drive, fast,slow mix of both motorway or a road,still only get 22mpg at the most. I dont mind this figure as i have a cheap runabout as well. My thought was whats the returns on a Ls400. I dont think they look as stylish as the IS but love the v8 sound and obviously the extra power.

So my question is what mpg figures are people getting from their LS400.

Not as stylish as the IS?? You're on shaky ground here..lol

I get around 30mpg from mine. Last weekend we went on a 200 mile drive around the Scottish Peninsulas and she returned 33mpg!

28 - 32 on a long run

Bulb holders and bulbs arrived today.

Fitted and took some pics.

It's a bit too bright outside to see it properly I guess. maybe I'll take some pics later when it's dark.

a bit darker...

Looking good

How easy we forget and take new things for granted very quickly.

Mike

I forgot. Mine has opening doors.

Guys,

Ive just bought a mk3 having previously owned a mk4, Its weird going backwards through the models theres already a lot you miss... like how it doesnt just sit there spinning the rear wheels when you put your foot down and the mk3 isnt as confident negotiating roundabouts. you get a real feeling from the mk3 that its about to lose the rear end. im sure my last mk3 had a traction control button near the Headlight washer switch but this one hasnt.

However there are some phone controls on the steering column that look like factory fitted. and the phone has obviously been removed but there is no obvious wiring/power to where its been removed. Was it Bluetooth if so it might still work. any idea how to set it up a pair with phone.

Hi. I can't remember if TC was an option on MKIII's, it certainly wasn't standard. I've only seen it on MKIV's and newer.

Similarly, I don't recall the MKIII having BT technology. If there were any signs of wiring it would be in or below the centre console and behind the boot lining. Mine's an early MKIII and non of these new fangled gadgets are on it. It does have pump-up tires and see-through windows but thats it.

Thought you had a beaver on the car - or is your sinature box full

The clear indicators arrived from the US today, fitted...they look great!!

I was goint to put in clear lights because I thought the amber ones were not legal here?

No amber indicators are legal, not clear.

When mine arrived, they came with 4 bulbs and bulb holders but of course there's no 2nd connector on the car so I spliced into the existing circuit.

If you dont fit a second working bulb they look c**p because the clear lenses show all.

I know the amber indicators are legal, but I want the side piece of the indicator to have a static light. Like in the US of A.

Interesting, then you will have to run a wire from the sidelight. Be good to see the end result.

Of course it has the boy-racer look. Wonder why its out of use. Perhaps too much boy racing.

Cant imagine the typical LS400 addict going for this and I suggest that the insurance costs for a youngerster will be a tad high. I will be amazed if this sells.

I would have bought a MKIV a year or 2 back but the guy - not a youngster - had got the garish wheels and paint job but not a patch on this example.

The clear indicators arrived from the US today, fitted...they look great!!

I was goint to put in clear lights because I thought the amber ones were not legal here?

No amber indicators are legal, not clear.

When mine arrived, they came with 4 bulbs and bulb holders but of course there's no 2nd connector on the car so I spliced into the existing circuit.

If you dont fit a second working bulb they look c**p because the clear lenses show all.

thats interesting Peter, I wonder if the MK4 is the same ? Do you hold both the lock & unlock buttons together at the same time for 10sec ?

I have not got a manual for the Mk4 so perhaps someone could tell me if the procedure is shown for the Mk 4.

Many Thanks

With the MKIII you sync the remotes seperately. There's nothing to stop you trying it with yours. Make it a generous 10 secs.

Take the Battery out and clean it and the contacts in the remote. Check the remote is not broken. Place a small bit of foil on the contacts and have another go.

I have a similar difficult decision to make. My LS400 from 1995 has now done 142,000. Every now and then it needs large sums of money being spent to keep it running. The latest is a new steering rack - over £2000. Much as I hate to see this beautifully comfortable, smooth running car leave me forever I find it very difficult to justify spending more than the car is worth to keep it going. I guess it is different if you are prepared to work on the car yourself but I am more than four times as old as the car and not willing to play that game any more. So sad as it may be I think it is probably time to move on.

Peter

Thank you for coming to see us. Dont do anything drastic without spending a bit of time with us.

I'm sure that this forum will be able to help you find a steering rack and guide you towards its fitting (by getting a man in) at a fraction of the the £2k you are facing.

One of my keys (3 button) will not lock the car remotely, it works fine in the doors and ignition. If my wife has used her key to lock the car remotely then when I unlock the car with my key in the door the alarm goes off. Could it be the battery in my key, although the little red light does work on the key ??

What about if you unlock with your remote rather than the key?

Steve, you are one of the most helpful guys on the forum

Shucks :duh: :duh:

My experience is, fluid gets low, froths up a bit, pump makes a noise, I top up the fluid, all is quiet again

Bit rough on the pump I agree, but perhaps it has to run a longer time on low fluid before it is badly damaged

I am not advocating this audible warning of low fluid approach to monitoring the PAS fluid level

Steve, you are one of the most helpful guys on the forum but i cannot agree with the WD40 on the belt. The mechanic who showed you this "trick" has shown you a fiddle i think. Andy is right, its chalk you want.

I do however agree that the likely cause of the noise is teh PAS pump. And its probable knackered by now if its been run so low on fluid. It might still be working but my bet os that it will be noisey foever now.

It certainly froths. I have only had this happen once - 4 years ago - and its still ok.

I'm trying to get beaver into the car, not on top!!!

Brian ;)

Don't knock it till you've tried it :winky:

One thing I don't like to see is aftermarket wheels (sorry guys)! To me, they almost always look plain wrong and IMHO devalue the car.

Exactly