W4SIM

I can get them

oh goody gum bears!

1. Are they Eibach or another make?

2. How low do they send the car?

3. How much?

4. And are they really a pain to fit?

Cheers.

Iv been looking through some of the old posts on here and have noticed that the most common used springs to lower the GS300 are the Eibach's.

However, the links in the posts are really old and dont work, and im finding it hard to find any over the internet. The only ones that i can find are usually located in the states.

Any links, address, names of where i can get some lowering springs for a MK1 GS300? Prices would be great along with a rough idea of how far down she'll go :winky:

Im not going to go coilovers as that will be abit harsh, just springs.

Also heard it can be a nightmare to change the springs in these cars, especially the rears? Is this this true, or is it just like any other car.

Cheers.

Ok, after having had a look at a few pics (not very clear) i think im beginning to see that the rears seem to be slightly more "deep dish" than the fronts?

Would that be true? Or am i just assuming that from poor quality pics.

This may seem like a bit of a daft question but im just doing my homework here.

Is there is any difference between the 8.5" front and the 10" rear alloys off a GS300 sport?

Apart from the obvious width difference is there anything noticeable when you look at them face on?

Is there any difference when they are on the car?

Can you tell if theres a difference between the rears and the fronts just by looking at them side on whilst they are on the car?

Thanks for your help.

As far as i can recall,the yellow is rear side bulb. Rear brake gives the red ! mark in a red circle.

Dave

The little ! mark in a red circle is for the handbrake mate.

I thought the yellow light would be for the rear lights being out but im not sure anymore. EVERY single bulb is working at the back and iv even taken them out and had a look. ALL the holders were rust free, ALL the bubls were sat right and iv even WD40'd them all just incase there is a bad connection somewhere.

All to no availe though.

Surprisingly though, that yellow little light will ONLY come on when i press the brakes with the HEADLIGHTS on. If the headlights are not on then i can brake as many times as i want without the yellow light coming on. I think its trying to tell me something else, or the actual sensor itself is bust.

Im not too sure but iv tried everything i could at home. Next step might be lexus themselves.

Any one know how much they charge to connect it up to a fault reader?

Anyone that believes the reaction of the group of Alabama 'hicks' was real probably also believes JC and Hamster dined on the squirrel and the cow (and also believed the 'lawyer' skit at the end) . It's staged entertainment, and the Americans are quite happy to join in and have a laugh at their own stereotypes.

However, most of New Orleans is still a mess and Bush is getting a lot of stick from the home crowd....

You need to get out more dude, them idiots are all over the world causing havoc trying to spread democracy and the rest of their lies and yet parts of thier own country are still 100 years behind. None of that was staged about what happened at the gas station. How do i know .... coz my mate goes out there every year on his summer holidays and see's the exact same thing ALL the time. Its more the southern states, but it sure as hell is true though.

If you hear some one in Alabama say "im gona go out and smoke some fags tonight" .... believe me they arnt talking about cigarettes, coz you dont need a shot gun to light up a cig!!!!

so,it comes that the best ones will be 18?

thanks.

Thats certainly the best ones for all round handling, ride comfort and looks. Anything more is just for looks, and you'll start losing handling and ride comfort.

At the end of the day mate, it depends of all what YOU want. At one time i got a little Honda civic that had little 14" wheels on it. I then decided to put 18" alloys on it. Fair to say that the ride was pretty hard but i didnt care, it looked damn good. So it all came down to what I wanted at the time. Now being a little more grown up i probably wouldnt do that as ride comfort is more important than looks, but i can still get a pretty good mix of the 2 though.

I'm selling mine buddy need refurbing but they are straight and true, new tyres on the rears(only 3weeks old) and the fronts are only about 6 months old with plenty of grip. I'd let the spare go as well if you wanted it.

I have seven centre caps 3 are perfect one was damaged by some little t+sser that wanted the wheels!! :tsktsk: :tsktsk:

Was going to put them on e-bay today

Regards Craig

Let me know if you want pictures.

Craig

You have a PM mate. :winky:

That would suggest a problem with the LPG system fitted, there is normally a very small percentage drop in performance but not that much!!!

Did you buy privately or from a dealer? A dealer really should be sorting this out for you, it's clearly a fault with the vehicle... You might want to get hold of the previous owner too when you get hold of the V5, find out what they made of the LPG system.

Brought it sort of privately from a trader working from home. Dont know how that works exactly in terms of warranty's and stuff.

LPG seems to have been fitted on this vehicle for a fair few years now, and has been serviced last year. So all in all it cant be that as the car does run on it without too many problems. However i did notice that because its a few years old its actually a single point system, not a multipoint. Im guessing thats where the difference lies.

The same thing happened to me a few months ago, strange as it may sound but the problem is with the bulb holder in one of the rear lights on mine, could the same problem your having.

On the Aristo all the back lights act as a brake light as well as side lights, on the UK GS, only the outside pair act as a brake/side light, so you may be looking at the outside pair only - the bulbs that have a twin element require a better earthing point, if the bulb holder has rust in the connection, the earth resistance is lower thus bringing the warning light on the dash.

I needed to clean and remove all the rust before the warning light went away when I braked with the side lights on.

Hope this helps

BR

Paul

Paul i think you could be onto to something there mate. I was having this little thought earlier today about how one of the rear bulbs might not be sat quite right in the holder. And iv definatly dealt with rust in the holders before. I even checked the bulbs for the rear plate number incase they were causing it, but both of them are working aswell.

I ran out of time today, or light i should say, but i think il take all the rear bulbs out tomorrow and give them a good clean along with the holders themselves.

Hopefully that should clear my problem, if it doesnt then i dont think theres anything else i can do about it at home.

THOUGHT I'D SEEN A DECENT SET ON EBAY, BUT TURNS OUT IT WAS JUST ONE WHEEL... DOH!

Just my bloody luck!

Keith B

Iv always wanted a GS ever since i saw one. But the main attraction to it was the way the wheels set the car off. It was almost like they "made" the car if you know what i mean. A GS without them wheels, especially standard 16" wheels, looks kinda naked!

Jemram - Those wheels quite seem to suit the LS400 mate, good choice.

Mine has had similar problems and they have been partly resolved by a new distributor cap and rotor arm. I do know I need a new set of leads but the price is a bit scary and they aint as simple to swap as most cars due to the :tsktsk: throttle body.

I have also got my car booked in at the place the LPG system was installed for service as that is supposed to be done annually

On mine the LPG was serviced last year and the next service date is 2011. I thought it would have been sooner than that but according to the paperwork its about every 5 years.

Iv taken it out again after disconnecting the ECU and although a bit rough to start with it seemed to get better with the driving. So i was right, these do have a learning type ECU aswell. :D

Did an experiment whilst i was out though. Held steady at 60 Mph and then floored it. Timed how long it took to get to 70 mph. Did it with both petrol and LPG.

1. Petrol 60-70Mph = 4 seconds.

2. LPG 60-70Mph = 12 seconds.

Quite shocked with that result actually, never thought LPG would rob it of that much power.

On a different note though, ever since resetting the ECU it seems to be slightly faster on the whole. Got to teach her how to drive all over again.

Hi

Are you using any non-standard bulbs such as LED's etc?

Use of such bulbs without load resistors will trigger the 'bulb out' warning on the dash.

Welcome by the way, us GS owners seem to be on the decline.

Hi

Thank you for the welcome, i think your about the first person to say it actually.

No the car doesnt have any LED's fitted as such, i would have picked up on this from the days of the Soarer. All the lights are standard. Although LED's should be an option as the headlights are rather weak and crap.

Yeah i see what you mean about the decline in GS owners, rather scarce now-a-days. Iv always wanted a GS ever since i saw one back in the nineties, but i must admit i fell in love with the "sport" model and not the normal one. Ironically iv bought a normal model just because it had LPG fitted. Now im looking for some sport model alloys as yours! ;)

Ok, figured it.

Just so anyone else gets stuck like me:-

1. Switch ignition to "acc" position where the radio would normally come on.

2. Press and HOLD button 1, 6 and the "power" button.

3. In the radio display will appear "sec".

4. Push and hold "tune" button upwards and press button "1".

5. You should see the sign "- - -" in the radio display.

6. Press button "1" to enter the first digit of your code. Button "2" for the second digit and button "3" for the third digit.

7. Press the number repetitevily until the desired number comes up. e.g if your code is 246 you will need to press "1" three times, "2" five times, and button "3" seven times. This is due to the numbers starting at zero.

8. Once your CORRECT code is entered on the display press and hold "scan" until the radio switches off.

9. Switching it back on now will run it as normal.

9a. If after pressing "scan" the message "err" appears followed by a number then you have entered the wrong code in. The following number will indicate the number of wrong attempts you have made. Go back to step 4.

The wrong may be entered up to 9 times.

DO NOT ENTER THE WRONG CODE FOR THE 10th TIME. THIS WILL DISPLAY "HELP" AND LOCK OUT THE RADIO FOR GOOD. CONTACT LEXUS FOR HELP.

Hope this has helped. If you have any problems then please ask a question below.

Check your high-level brake lights as well, they'll trip the bulb failure light.

Ok, just checked all the necessary fuses, bulbs and lights and everything seems to be working perfectly well.

Also noticed that the light only comes on under 2 circumstances:-

1. Switch on side lights AND press the brake pedal.

2. Switch on headlights.

I cant understand why it comes on with the headlights given its the REAR lights its ment to be indicating as out.

Can something else in the braking system be causing this aswell? Pads, discs, brake fluid. Maybe being stupid but the obvious has been checked out and is in order.

I very much doubt it mate

I very much thought so.

£1000 WITHOUT tyres is a little too much for me, by which i mean a HELL of a lot for me!

After having removed the ECU fuses from my car the radio now requires the code to go back in.

I have the code, however im not sure how to enter it?

I dont really want to try and try and try again incase it locks out for good or something daft like that.

Any one got any ideas?

Cheers.

If you still havnt done it then look on top of the headlight. You will notice a little plastic bit leading to the indictor lense, held in place by a small philips screw.

Undo that screw and the whole indicator unit will just come straight out. Change the bulb and then push it back in place and screw it back again. Shouldnt take more than 5mins, and once out you have loads of space.

This is also the best method if you need to change your side/parking lights. Best access is by removing the whole indicator unit and getting to the side light from the side. Iv just taken mine out and now im going to Halfrauds to get the side light and then just push it all back in place.

Yep, only pulled the fuses for a couple of minutes and it started straight away.

Now got to find out how to put the bloody code back in the radio. Anyone?

Ok, just went out and ran it solely on petrol for a while. However no noticeable difference in power was noticed.

Didnt take it on the motorway like the day i bought it, as thats where it was REALLY slow.

So the LPG theory can be discounted.

Going back out to check the Air Filter and perhaps disconnect the Battery.

Does any one know if these cars have a MAF? And can this cause performance issues?

If you really like them mate £1000 is not much to pay for 4 x 18" wheels :winky:

Do you know if that price tag includes tyres?

If it does THEN they'll be worth it. :D

Perhaps you can find someone else who wants a set, split randyreindeer's four 8.5s and buy just the 10-inch rears :)

er . . . . your not intrested in buying a set of MK1 sport alloys are you gareth???

Yeah i guess that could be a plan but its a case of finding some one who wants to go through the hassle of getting them.

Im assuming handling or anything daft like that isnt affected by the lack of 10" wheels on the rear?

Wasim.

I have a set of four standard size MK1 sport wheels.

By standard do you mean 4 wheels in 8.5" x 18" size?

And you have a PM mate. :)

In all honesty Gareth, wether i go through Toyota, Lexus or go direct to TTE one way or the other il be getting shafted by the lot of them.

TTE because of their location and hence delivery wont be easy. Toyota and Lexus coz they're ..... dealers!

I really do want these wheels but i might have to start looking at what else looks good on a GS300 aswell, which is a shame really.

I did hear though from a mechanic that you should change the transmission oil every 25k, is that correct???

Thanks

Nah, not really. To have to change the transmission fluid at 25k you'd have to be driving it like you've nicked it everytime you get behind the wheel.

Coincidentally, with that kind of driving you'd also have to change your engine oil about every 1k.

They love 'em Waz. They look good on Soarers, Supras, anything.

TTE = Toyota Team Europe, I think.

http://www.tte.de/

The Lexus part numbers are somewhere on mkivsupra.net.

Well they were easy enough to find on the TTE website, but nobody mentioned anything about TTE being in Germany. Whats that all about!!! :o

And how easy is it to get them here without giving an arm and a leg for 'em?