RNUK

Well I’m still alive so, win! Thanks all.

Oh. Ok then. Not the life or death situation that I’ve heard it is then. 😁 Thanks

So car failed MoT yesterday on both dip beam bulbs. Grabbed a replacement today and will fit them myself. heard all of the horror stories of replacing these so want to check if there is tips etc to not electrocute myself?

Thanks all. All checked and all seems ok. Drives as normal now and lights have stayed off. Seems a long shot, but it was an extremely hot day. Caliper siezed slightly? (Discs and pads were changed all round about 2k ago) In my not particualrly mechanical but logical head, that would cause it to feel odd under braking and the jolt could have been the caliper freeing off and the pad engaging the disc suddenly which could also cause the system to think there is an issue throwing the warning lights up (Although I couldn't pull any codes and I'd imagine the software would have detected an issue with effectively 3 wheel braking in the first instance). Excuse if thats a daft scenario mechanically, but I'm a software engineer so logically does explain why it's completely back to normal now.

I have an 07 IS250 thats done 106k. Just fitted new wheels last week due to the corrosion problem. Yesterday I went on a bit of a run and the car felt very strange under braking and at one point it felt like the ABS kicked in under moderate braking, definitely no where near hard enough to activate ABS. Shortly after that there was a 'jolt' under braking and the dash lit up with Check VSC warning. Pulled up to where I was going and had a quick check over and everything appeared to be fine. After a few hours I got back in the car to take a slow drive back home and the lights went off when I was on the road. The car also felt better/normal under braking. About 30 miles down the road, the dash lit up again and Check VSC came back up. This morning, dash and warning still lit up so I put a diagnostic on but pulled no codes. Checked fuel cap and brake lights, all ok. Drove the car round the block and again lights all turned off and the car was behaving perfectly.

Thanks all. I changed the battery (and reset the windows) and we are all good again. Not encountered battery dying like this before.

To be fair, I've just been out and everything is a little more reluctant to run electrically now.

Just picked my daughter up from school and got back home. Car outside for 10 minutes. Got in to take her to her dance class and it won’t start. First thought was flat battery. But the wheel happily moves to position and retracts again on ignition button. IMG_1067.MOV

No, not at all. Both have been SE-Ls, both with lower than average milage and full (Mostly dealer) history and both paid about what they were worth.

So 2 years ago, my first IS250 went bang (Blew a head gasket) at about 98k. 16 hours after I picked it up following an engine replacement, someone pulled out into the side of me and wrote it off. Today, after having a service and MOT last week (MOT Advisory of front suspension arms need replacing!), the car has developed a rattle like a bag of spanners (89k on the clock). Ran it round to my local garage and they show me the front pulley (Main one with the three bolts in that you can see when looking front on) running back and forth like crazy. He's advised me to take it home and leave it there until my appointment next Wednesday... Prior to my 250's, I had my old IS200 for 8 years and the only time it went to a garage outside of MOT and servicing was to replace the radiator that rotted at about 160k. Looks like 250's are just going to be unlucky cars for me.

Ah ok. Thanks. Don't think mine has that, sadly. One more question regarding my current IS250 which some of you advised me on after my head gasket went bang at Xmas. I've tried to reset the ECU tonight by disconnecting the battery to see if I can get rid of the damn warning lights that have been there since the engine swap. First time I left it disconnected for 10 mins then reconnected and tried it. 100 yards down the road and Check VSC flashed up again along with engine warning light and TCS light. So I tried again, but this time left it for 1.5 hours. Much better result! Managed to drive around town, down the motorway and back toward home, no sign of warning lights or message and fuel economy is way up on what it has been... Then I stopped at the shop... 100 yards down the road and Check VSC is back! 😡 Question is, how long does it take to reset the ECU this way? Both times my one-touch windows reset and my radio presets, but driving position settings only reset on the second try. But the Bluetooth phone connection remained on both times, so I'd hazard a guess that it's not fully resetting. TL;DR? - basically, how long do I need to keep the battery disconnected in order to fully reset the ECU. Thanks.

Forgive my ignorance. What is ACC/PCS?

Therein may be the answer. Uppercase I looking the same as lower case L.

That's what I thought. But there is a lot on the trader marked as SE-L but without parking sensors. I thought the SE-L was fully loaded

Did the DVLA check before I went to see it. Mileage tallies, but then again it will. I went to see it as it's the fully loaded SE-L like mine (Most of the SE-L's I see don't have parking sensors). It wasn't low mileage 😏 and great money.

Yeah interior is pretty straight, to be fair the removable bits look pretty new to me. Seats look about on the money but the centre armrest is worn more than mine and mine has done double the mileage! Think I'll trust you and my gut here. Bugger, was hoping to get a find there.

Hpicheck.com. It's the one I always use. The discrepancy only appears the once on the same date (34k then 62k) the next service is in line with the average 8k per year the car has done. Its just the fact that it has a dealer stamp on it. Same dealer 4 services in a row and 3 of the 4 have been clearly tip-ex'd. My inital reaction was walk and if they stamps would have been indies, you wouldn't see the door close behind me, but I thought I'd get some thoughts on here first as it's apparently dealer mileage.

Afternoon. Just went to look at a private sale IS 250 And after HPI'ing it. It's come back with a mileage discrepancy and a big one of 30,000 miles!!! However, it's been recorded by the manufacturer according to the HPI check. It has full dealer history in the service book but three consecutive services (by ththe same dealer) has had the mileage tip-ex'd out. I have called the dealer in question but the service dept is now closed so I have to wait til Monday to speak to them and see if they can explain it. Any thoughts?

Didn't realise you could get it from Halfords. Yes it will have the same effect, but with the added problem is resetting all settings and trip etc. I also hear that if you do that the one-touch windows need resetting somehow.

Might have a go at this. I've heard varying results but always positive. Can you use isopropyl for this? Also want to reset the ECU while I'm at it. Read the guide here about it. Got under the bonnet and can't see the ETCS or EFI fuse anywhere! Got the manual out and found the ETCS is a 60a fuse (E/G-B) responsible for FR CTRL-B, ETCS, steering lock system and exhaust system (seems like a good one considering I'm cleaning the MAF). But still can't see the EFI, although I do see P/I-B, also a 60a and responsible for multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system. I'm guessing that EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection? In which case I guess this is the fuse I want. Can anyone confirm both isopropyl and P/I-B fuse? Thanks

Not mine, but this is the exact noise that mine makes! Comments say Cam Gears. Known isssue?

Love the car, starting to think that this particular one is a bad example though.

Thanks. Other than the VSC warning (Diagnostic comes back with Crankshaft and Camshaft alignment out - P0016 & P0017), the engine runs nice and smooth. That's why we are switching out the sensors for the one on my old engine. The donor was direct from Japan so there is some speculation over sensors programmed to a Japanese ECU running on an European ECU.

Thanks for the replies. A guy at work used to be a mechanic and had a listen tonight. Asked if it had hydraulic lifters as it sounds like that (if that helps?) I'll try and get a video of it. But it has to be completely cold for it to happen. Its going to have the Camshaft and crankshaft sensors changed over to my old ones tomorrow to see if we can cure the engine warning lights. So I'll ask them what oil they put in. At a guess, it's the 5w/30 that is recommended that they put in.

Yes, it ended up a Cat D. I have bought the car back with a view to having the dent pulled. The engine does have a 6 month warranty, yes. However it was a bare block engine, no ancillaries