AdeV

The proof that this is more profit-driven than before is that there are no fixed premiums any more. If you ring for a quote, the company doesn't tell you its price. They ask, 'How much have you been quoted already?' and then try to match it. In other words, their best price is flexible, which means that some people MUST be overpaying for the same level of cover.

If they ever ask me that, I tell 'em about £400... if they can get anywhere near that I'll bite their arm off...

Thanks for that info Tony, hopefully that will help lots of people with the current high prices. I was shocked to hear about the sudden price hikes people were experiencing as my trade insurance is lower than some quotes people were getting to insure just one car! No doubt I will receive a kick in the nads when mine comes up for renewal in Feb next year!

Mind you, at least windscreen cover is included in private insurance, something I lack on my policy and yes you guessed it, just got a chip in my windscreen for the first time in years! Sods law!

Abs, who do you get your trade insurance with, and are there any specific conditions that a "non motor dealer" would struggle to meet, e.g. would i _have_ to buy/sell 6 cars/year to qualify, or could I claim to be a custom car builder & turn out 1 every 2 years...? I have a business address, and all the other trappings (only sole trader status though).

FWIW, by "tweaking" the values on confused.com, I can squeeze my insurance down to about £700, the following may help:

1) Being married/common-law/civil partnership knocks about £90 quid off the premium - even without your partner on the insurance

2) The best value for your car is about £3500 - premiums go UP if you value it at less...

3) Parking on the road is cheaper than in a garage (I kid you not)

4) Adding a tracker adds £80/year to the premium!

5) Being 48 saves around £100 compared to being 38...

Postcode is still the biggie. e.g. CH3 (a nice, relatively quiet and prosperous postcode south of Chester) attracts a quote roughly 50% cheaper than CH44 (a postcode thick with scallies and thieves)... The trouble is, while I can probably get away with all my other "tweaks", the postcode's a bit tricky.

It's still bloody annoying to be paying more than the value of the car in annual insurance premiums.... but I suppose I spend more than the value of the car in petrol every year, so mustn't grumble too much. It could have been a 1.1 diesel corsa, and then I'd have been REALLY miserable...

It sounds a lot like fuel starvation to me; if you can blip it to 5k, does it drift back down to 4k even if you keep your foot planted?

Also - how does it drive up-to 4K? Pulling like a train, or is it struggling to pass ~3.5k before finally peaking at 4k? Or does it suddenly lose power & just stop accelerating? Is there any kind of juddering near the 4K limit, either under acceleration or cruising (although cruising in top @ 4K is fairly motoring...)?

Is there a secondary fuel filter which might also be blocked (had a Nissan Patrol like that - 2 fuel filters, one obvious one on the engine & one in the tank... despite replacing the (filthy) on-engine filter, it refused to do more than 50mph until the filter in the tank was cleaned; at which point, normal service resumed).

Thanks AdeV, It seems to be a fairly fixed limit, apart from the time I blipped it and got 5000, no juddering, ever. It pulls OK to 4000 but when I get it back I can try to offer more info.

The fuel filter near the rear had been replaced.

I'm not so sure about fuel starvation as I have had it up to quite a speed where it must be using quite a bit of fuel and probably more fuel flow than 4000 at standstill.

On the basis of that, yes, I'd rule out fuel starvation too. It sounds a lot like you're hitting a programmed rev limit - which to me would suggest either an ECU fault (memory corruption), or it's in some kind of limp mode. The latter seems unlikely - Lexus ought to know what limp mode(s) exist in their own ECU - but to rule it out for sure you need to do the "Battery off for 30 mins" thing to make sure its reset; although to be absolutely sure, I'd want to take the Battery off & leave it at least 8 hours - my radio settings survived the last Battery off & that was longer than 1/2 hour...

As for will the car run without a MAF? I doubt it; and even if you did get it to start, you'd not get any realistic information because trying to manually balance the air input vs. fuel input without any kind of feedback would, I think, be impossible... However, caveat: I've not tried it, so I could be talking pish...

It sounds a lot like fuel starvation to me; if you can blip it to 5k, does it drift back down to 4k even if you keep your foot planted?

Also - how does it drive up-to 4K? Pulling like a train, or is it struggling to pass ~3.5k before finally peaking at 4k? Or does it suddenly lose power & just stop accelerating? Is there any kind of juddering near the 4K limit, either under acceleration or cruising (although cruising in top @ 4K is fairly motoring...)?

Is there a secondary fuel filter which might also be blocked (had a Nissan Patrol like that - 2 fuel filters, one obvious one on the engine & one in the tank... despite replacing the (filthy) on-engine filter, it refused to do more than 50mph until the filter in the tank was cleaned; at which point, normal service resumed).

Phew, at least I'm not the only one who thinks insurance prices have gone crazy...

A lot of it looks to be postcode related: CH44 will cost me over £1k, CH3 would be less than £400. Looks like I might have to insure it at my mother's address then - no use if it gets stolen from outside my CH44 address, but at least I'd be covered if I bumped someone.

Someone mentioned Adrian Flux & Sky Insurance - neither of whom I've actually phoned, I'll give both a try, thanks. I have had insurance through Flux before now, so they can be competitive in some circumstances.

I'd be interested to know how many LS400s get stolen. I can't see them appealing to "the kidz" who typically steal cars (they go for silly hot hatches, shurely?); it's not like it's a "steal to order" car these days, given the sub-£1k price tag for a decent motor; and they never did have the "cachet" of a big Merc or BMW (despite being better than both IMHO).... so as far as I can tell, despite my 10 year NCB, I'm being penalised purely because I live in a postcode which is also occupied by corsa-stealing scumbags who'd never touch my car...

Grrr.

2 years ago, I could easily get a sub-£400 quote for my LS400.

Last year, nothing under 600... but my renewal was only a shade over 400, so I went with that.

About 3-4 months ago, looking to insure a second one, and all my quotes were in the 800+ range...

Today, same car same terms etc., nothing less than £1400.

This is utterly stupid! I'm trying to insure a £600 car to sit on the road outside my house (I don't even want to drive the damn thing, I just need the space in my shed!), and the greedy thieves want £1400 for the pleasure of? That £1400, btw, was third party ONLY. Fully comp rises to a whopping £1800!

I know CH44 isn't exactly a salubrious postcode to live in, but honestly, this is just stupid money.

</rant>

Well had my lpg serviced, they checked the fuel maps and it running very slightly lean, but not enough to worry about, he told me that if it runs lean on gas the engine check light will come on.

They could not help me with the economy though...

Running lean would cause overheating (possibly not enough to tax the LS400 system) and, if anything, better economy than the correct mixture. FWIW, there is no level of "slightly lean" that isn't worrying... too lean a mixture promotes detonation (aka pinking), particularly if you give it a bootfull. Even if you don't drive it like you stole it, then you might find it pinking on hills, particularly on hot days.

I guess what I'm saying is, lean is BAD - worse than a touch too rich.

PS: Antifreeze...... any recommendations for good value but reliable stuff? I'm running plain water until I'm sure there are no leaks; but obviously I'll need to put some proper stuff in before long.

The water that came out was dark red (no, it's not blood, my car is not a vampire... feel free to call Buffy though), I presume any replacement should be similar.

Cheers!

Ade.

Hi, good to know they really do last forever ( nearly ) then !

My now written-off MK11 was an 1st. August 94 on an M plate. Thought the Mk3 came in during later '94 ?

Is the exhaust leak really NOT JUST the flanges I wonder. One never hears of anything else with the exhausts you know

It sure is, especially given how much stuff you have to disassemble to get to the damn thing...

Anyway, the job is now complete & the car back on the road, so-far drip free!

Things I've done:

- Water pump (obviously)

- Timing belt & both idler & tensioner

- Replaced O-ring on PAS reservoir & added a goodly dollop of liquid gasket; hopefully that'll cure the damn PAS leak forever

- Replaced dizzy caps & rotors (held over from when I did the spark plugs).

Things I've got left over:

- 1 bolt(!), must be from the fan bracket, but damned if I can work out where it should have gone

- The fan shroud, which I broke trying to re-fit it.

Right, off for a test drive :)

Malc - I've felt all around the cat flanges for the leak, & can't detect it. It's been mentioned it might be the EGR pipe fractured, I've yet to properly investigate that. However, Dad wants a few bits for his Mk3, I want just the engine, so I reckon I'll break it anyway. It only cost £600, I should be able to recoup that & have cash left over. And the engine will go on to do another 200K in my Granada :)

Hi

Stu i have been following this thread with interest - my screen is also showing the usual signs of age and was thinking of getting it replaced - however i have read somewhere that others have experienced an increase in road noise after fitting aftermarket windscreens - perhaps you could post on here once your windscreen is fitted as to wether you notice any difference in noise or not.

many thanks in advance

Hi Miq,

I had mine done (by Autoglass) a few weeks back - can't say I noticed any change in noise levels, but the visibilty improvement was quite marked.

HTH!

Good luck for today then !

Probably the third cambelt change now and replacing the original waterpump. The year of your LS400 is ?

You've got to keep it now for at least another 60,000 miles. ;)

Cheers Malc... I will need it I think. I've got about 70% of the way in so far, I can now see the timing belt in various places at least...

It does look like the 2nd cambelt - the first was done early at 55k, the second at 120k. I can't see any report of the water pump being changed, so I'd guess it's original.

I must admit... I bought a 2nd LS400 - L-plate again, but a Mk3; I wasn't sure if I was going to keep the Mk3 & break the Mk2; or vice versa.... unfortunately I got stopped for a cracked windscreen in the Mk2; so had to fix that, and with the water pump going, it pretty much guarantees I'll be driving the Mk2 for the next few years & breaking the Mk3... which has a massive exhaust leak somewhere north of the catalytic converters - i.e. a manifold = engine out to fix it.

So, there'll be some Mk3 bits up for sale soon :) I plan to keep the engine, and possibly some suspension parts, but most of the rest will be up for grabs...

You might not need the puller, mine was loose enough once the nut is loose.

That's was the hard bit, the nut wss really tight.

I changed my belt at 61000, not done water pump.

The whole job was slow for me due to the amount of dismantling.

Ah well, I bought one anyway... better to have it & not need it, than not have it & be stuck...

Currently, I have dismantled as far as the alternator, but I can't seem to get the connector out of the back of it; it seems to be half smashed anyway, plus it's all drenched in PAS fluid (hmm, I really ought to fix that while I've got the thing apart). Figured I'd leave it for tonight & have another bash tomorrow.

Malc - Mileage is just over 200,000 (less than 201,000). The cam belt was previously changed at ~120K miles, and possibly earlier as well, I'd have to go digging in the history file. I'm not sure if the water pump has been done before or not.

So far, so good... more tomorrow...

Hi Everyone

Has anyone done a re-gas on the aircon themselves, my LS (Mk 4) is now living out it`s retirement in sunny Majorca and although the A/C works OK I think a re-gas may be an advantage for this summer. Many Thanks.

I have done it many times (on all sorts of cars) myself.

I usually get a can of R134a from Autokool Ltd (they also sell on Ebay).

Please note: their cans require a piercing hose which they also supply. 1 hose lasts a lifetime :)

It works out a LOT cheaper than the cans from Halfrauds!

Ruud - how do you make sure you only put "enough" gas in & not too much (which I assume is bad all round)? Do you vent the old gas first? Do you add compressor oil, or is their oil already added to the can of refrigerant?

Hello all.I have just had my Air Conditioner filled up, and I noticed that when I switch it on it runs for several seconds and then stops,after a short while it runs then stops again, and so on...Is this normal, and sometimes when it on, it seems noisy..Any help would be appreciated...Thanks Roy.

It's normal for the AC to cut in/out, according to the temperature you've selected & the temperature in the cabin. If you crank the temp down, the AC should run for longer (until the desired temperature is met) before cycling again as you describe.

I had the same problem finding my colour but I contacted the company below and if you can supply a sample of the leather colour you want ( look under the rear seats for a spare bit) and send it to this company they will match the dye for you.

http://www.dynamixdyes.com/bmw_colours1.php

Thanks Steve :)

Another company who can match leather colour is Gliptone, their website doesn't seem to mention it, but they do a product called "Liquid leather", which is applied a bit like paint, to restore colour. It can either be sprayed on or brushed on, depending on the area to be covered. Gliptone will be able to advise you on exactly how to do what you want to do.

FWIW: I have no connection to Gliptone, other than being a former customer (ages ago, when I ran an upholstery repair company).

Cheers,

Ade.

My replacement water pump & timing belt kit arrived this morning, hurrah! £137.76 from the States, including the dreaded VAT & post office fine (sorry, administration charge). The nearest UK equivalent would have been over £200...

Anyway, the water pump came with a very nice looking metal/rubber gasket. Looking at the LexLS tutorial for changing the timing belt & water pump, they use a very large quantity of "red sealant" (that silicone stuff that never quite sets) & didn't mention the gasket. Because I have this excellent gasket, will I actually need any sealant? Should I use some anyway, just as a precaution? I'm thinking not, but thought I'd ask the experts first...

All I need now is one of those harmonic pully puller things.... £15 from Machine Mart seems like a good deal... so long as the car makes it there & back without piddling all its water away.

FWIW, my driver's side wiper clatters across the screen when "only just wet"; despite me changing both the wiper (Halfords "cheap" one) & the windscreen... I suspect it's the angle of the blade that's causing the problem. However, I'll be rain-xing the screen soon, bloody brilliant stuff it is.

It's probably imported from Jersey, or somewhere similar. It would receive a UK number plate from the date of import, not the date of manufacture (as someone above mentioned: It was "first registered" (in the UK) in 2000, hence the W plate. Just one reason to be careful of imports - but it's easy enough to find the year of manufacture.

My "spare" Mk3 LS400 has a blowing exhaust. I thought it was all at the flanges, which I've gun-gummed up for the time being; but I've still got a leak, and it's somewhere between the engine & the cat (maybe in the cat). I can't feel the gas blowing anywhere, but it sounds as noisy as ever.

I decided to take a look under the heat shielding, but of the 4 bolts I've had to remove (3 on a plastic bit, to get to the heatshield), all 4 have sheared. This is obviously going to be the story on every other bolt I tackle on this car :( So, a couple of questions:

1) How easy is it to get the manifold downpipes off? I'm assuming it's 1 big lump either side - but do I need to pull the engine to do this?

2) How the hell can I get the bolts out without shearing them? I can squirt WD40 all over, but I can't see it doing much good, it'll just drip off instead of getting into the threads.

3) Any ideas on how I might more accurately locate the leak? I can't get my hand in there to find the blowing, before it all gets too hot...

It sounds like the water pump bearing seal has failed so it's a replacement required.While you are in there and because it needs to come off you may as well do the cambelt/tensioner/idlers if not done recently (if it was done recently the pump should have been changed at the same time?)

If you are having a garage do it expect 8-10 hours of labour if you are DIYing there are tutorials available.

Damn, that sounds all too plausible. And to think, I was planning to "get away with" another 20k miles before I needed to do the cambelt. Ho hum.

I'll DIY it, but first I need to fix the exhausts on the other '400, so I can use that in the meantime.

FWIW I've broken 2 springs (1 front, 1 rear); neither are particularly painful so long as you have the right spanners - and spring compressors are vital. A rear spring involves taking the back seat squab out & undoing chunks of the interior - not too hard, luckily. A front will involve dismantling the lower ball joint - again, not too painful (although I really had to swear & curse at mine), try not to split the rubber gaiter like I did, or ruin your castle nut (ahem).

I re-used my dampers, because they seemed fine.

If it's not the PAS pump making all the noise, it may be the A/C compressor - that would also tie in with your climate control not working.

PAS noise is usually a lowish whine, which gets louder as you turn the wheel (especially if you try to turn more than full lock). It would normally be worse after a bit of use, as the oil (if any is left) froths up & becomes a bit useless.

I noticed a big puddle under the Lex this morning, far too big to be aircon condensate, but seemingly too oily to be water. Anyway, having popped the under cover off, I find it IS water, and it seems to be coming out from behind the bottom pulley. Is that a sign that my water pump's on its way out? There are no particularly unusual noises, over & above the PAS whine; there was quite a bit of gurgling as I refilled the system (the expansion bottle was empty).

I did put the car up on ramps, re-filled, and didn't notice much/any water leaking. As soon as the car is level, it's not exactly pouring out, but it's definitely losing plenty. I did a 450 mile trip on Sunday, with no apparent issues, although I guess that's maybe what caused whatever is breaking/has broken. She's literally just (on Sunday) passed 200,000 miles.

Any ideas? The water is coming down the front of the engine & drips off the front lip of the sump. The top is dry as far as I can see.

PS: The "oily" was just where the leak had washed PAS fluid out of the undertray...

I'd be more concerned that the front number plate is behind the windscreen.... repaired accident damage? There's lots of possibilities for oil leaks on the '400 - could be PAS, gearbox or engine oil. If engine oil, it's only serious if it's a cracked block; pretty much anything else will just be a pipe or joint that's leaking.

I know a chap who works for a garage door company, I'd trust his advice. I can put you in touch with him if you'd like (PM me - also, approx where do you live? My man is in North Wales).

As regards that panel; I'm not sure what's behind it, but it'd be interesting to find out. In the Mk1 & Mk2 cars it had a switch to turn off the remote central locking... Someone here will know.

Cheers!

Ade.