seecarr11
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Posts posted by seecarr11
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Two links to the superchargers we need, one new, one used. When my charger needed a service, I bought a kit that covered the m62 with a snout, but i used only the parts that our chargers needed
I never paid any attention to the shape of the opening to be honest
Actually now that u mention it, i think i still have a spare kit somewhere.. i'll post pics of it when i find it
or you can buy this kit but you'll save more if you buy your parts separately
For anybody that comes to this tread long after these eBay links are dead, search eBay (eBay usa)for "mercedes supercharger" or "supercharger rebuild kit" and you should be able to get the stuff u need. "eaton m62" search will get you too many hits to other types that wont work.
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i'm in the caribbean. it would cost you too much to ship over there to be practical. you'll probably save more if you just bought it from a breaker in the uk. if i have any smaller lighter bits that might be easier if you're willing to pay for shipping. let me know what u need and i'll look around the garage and see if its still there. i was getting ready to clean out anyway
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i remember this "bank 2 sensor 1":-(. it was the most annoying sensor to fix especially if you had the charger fitted, you have to take everything down to get at its location plus it begin so close to the firewall didnt help either.
Once u can reach it you should be alright thou. i gave it a good bath with wd-40 and a got a big 22mm spanner to get some leverage to crack that bad boy out of there, after that just put in the replacement with some anti seize on the thread and you should be good to go. just don't get it on the sensor.
i still have my stock manifold here with cats intact and good working order, i would give it to you if i could, no charge. i can't use it now anyway
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Sorry, i never did update this threat . I will answer any questions you have just post them up and i'll be sure to reply
About the Cradle, i wanted to do the custom fab at first but it was alot more complicated than i thought. I was never able to get detailed drawing and dimensions, so it would have been trail and error to get it done. eventually i just bought support cradle from TTE. It was worth it. You pay more for the R&D, but you get the peace of mind. In any case, after i got it, it was clear without those fab drawings i would have never been able to get it built correctly. There were support points on the engine block i would have never considered if i did it myself and the angles that were required. i probably would have ended up with lots of vibration cause i missed those little things
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ok i was able to run the rear lines along the "c" pillars then thru the hole at the base of the pillar, just about the rear dash. from there it fed into the wheel well without a problem. i found a rubber plug in the base of the well, popped them out and fed the line thru. I used some slicone and tie strap as a stop to prevent the lines from coming out as i didnt have the gromet drain plugs
the fronts were a differnt story.followed the same as the rear, along the pillar and then through a hole in the metal just above the dash but i couldnt feed the line past the "A"pillars. it kept getting stuck on something so i routed the passanger side thru the drain line gormet for the acc that is just to the left of the ac console and the right side through another stop plug just infront of the driver seat so it drains unto the long splash shield that runs below the car. I made sure there were no pockets or pinch points in the lines so it will be a smooth gravity flow just like lexus intented.
i used 3/8" air hose from the local pet shop at the front and 1/2" for the rear. the 1/2 happened to be the same size of the hole in the trunk wheel well so its nice and snug. i should have taken some pics. sorry. if i pull up the floor mat again i will
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thanks. does anybody have pictures of the exit points? and that is along the pillars or actually inside the plllars?
I'm begining to wonder if i have to drill holes in the chassis for these lines to exit...
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Ok i just installed a moon roof from a SXE10, used the wiring diagrams and got it to work in my IS
now i need to run the drain lines, does anybody know where there supposed to go? the diagrams say all 4 four corners but they dont show where exactly on the pillars. am i supposed to feed it thru some existing holes in the A pillars and the ones in the back? and where do they exit?
anybody has pics? please assist
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1. Dont need the jzx100 subframe. get engine brackets from an IS300 with the 2JZ. Get the engine mounts too while you're at it, but the jzx100's mounts will work too
2. the shifter will not be in the same location. you will have either modify your chassis or the shifter location on the transmission (R154 right? v160s require even more mods to fit) also it depends on the R154s from the mk3 supra and soarers have different shift housing extensions
3. the r154 uses a slip on yolk like our IS, but the length is different. you will have to mod. I kept mine auto so i was lucky that the stock USDM IS300 driveshaft was a direct swap. (i swaped the front bit from the tran to the support beering, after that its still stock GXE10 drive train) If its a V160 then you'll have to change to the 3prong bolt type
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oh yeah. I agree with monster mat. the stock torsen can handle the power with the usual maintenace. and if you choose to use the chaser diff, you have some options, just drop in the diff and use your output shafts, or just swap the internals with yours, swaping the final drive gearing if you want, (manual chasers are 3.9 autos are 4.1 i think) it will give u the opportunity to change the diff seals if yours developed a leak like mine did.
the jzx90, jzx100/110 and gxe10/sxe10 share lots of suspension parts, hence the "X" chassis designation.
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i've done this swap with my gxe10. Graham b had alot of helpful info he passed on to me and i will gladly pass it to you if u need it
before and after pics
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edit. should be SLK230 not C. Anyway here's an old thread on the topic. list of mercs with the right charger inside
http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=54589
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not if he gets the m62 from the merc 230clk. that was the perfect fit. only the mag clutch mod required
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yeah the s15 uses the Aisin J160 just like the IS and the JDM altezza. bellhousing is different (obviously) to mate up with the sr20det thou
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what happened to the pictures in rob's thread? this thread really helps with charger maintenace. can the mods fix this please? i'm getting ready to do my rebuild so this would be a great help
thanks
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so i should expect the tranny to go not to long after, well i'll let you all know at what hp it breaks.
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Thanks for the reply,
Good point, but i want to keep the car as close to oem for as long as possible(i like the cruise control :winky: ) I considered the engine swap, but i'd rather swap a 1j or 2j.
Also, is the auto box as strong as the manual?
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alright, following the examples of is200sam and mstav, i've decided to go looking for more. the charger is fun but after a year, i think i'm ready for more. I just purchased a 1G-GTE with the w58 manual (its easy to locate here, many mk3s upgraded to the JZs) but i'm leaning towards changing internals rather than a complete engine swap,cause i already have another 1g-fe-vvti laying around so i can build outside of the car before install.
the plan at this point is to get the maximum output of the charger before i go turbo so here are my questions,
what can the tranny of the 1g take before it fails,
should i use the injectors from the GTE as well to account for fuel,
is the silver box ecu enough for the pulley upgrade or do i invest in a greddy ultimate?
what other upgrades should i invest ?
car's current setup
is200 se auto
1g-fe supercharged, stock internals
trd coilovers
torsen lsd upgrade
18x8" all around
i'll be using the larger pulley that i got from mstav for now, can't remember the dia.
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I'm looking for the oem IS200 antenna base. Does anybody have one for sale? Include costs for shipping to Florida USA in your reply
Thanks
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What speed are Altezzas limited to?
Is it easy to remove the limiter?
Cheers ..... ;)
They're limited to 180km/hr and yes I heard it isn't to difficult. HKS makes a Speed cut defender that looks similar to the fuel cut defender(FCD)that some of us used to replace the TTE black box. You just have to know which wires to splice.
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Update.
I had the chance of matching up my IS with and RS and found
1. The TTE IS200 auto's acceleration can match the RS200 auto
2. If the IS isn't in the 4000+ rpm sweet spot range, the RS will have an advantage while accelerating but not much
3. The TTE 3rd gear which takes you from 110km-170km (i think)really shines. You can close the gap quickly on the RS if it is already ahead
Unfortunately this was only done from a rolling start/touge type race we didn't have the space to do a head to head. The results are not conclusive. We forgot about the Altezza's speed limiter so it had no chance of besting the IS200 top speed. the IS sailed past the RS with ease as the 4th gear kick in. We will try again when the altezza's speed limiter has been removed
And if you were wondering, this was done on a closed road. safety first.
So far it does seem like the TTE IS200 can give the best of both worlds, the Lexus luxury and the Altezza's performance.
one thing to note is both cars had coilovers, the IS200 had TRDs and Apexi on the Altezza.
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go to this site
http://ehardware77.ecrater.com
they have the 5 ribbed belts we need. type in the size you want (with no spaces) in the search. they shipped to the USA with no problems in less than a week
i got 2 5pk780s for mine (one spare), but they also have the 5pk790 if you prefer
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I'd love to make it happen but we don't have a track here and i don't plan on encouraging street racing. its really sad because so far i haven't met anybody else with a TTE kit but there are so many 3S-GEs. Its starting to look like i'm the only TTE s-charged on the island. The 1JZ/2JZ swap is more popular.
However, I love the confused looks some of RS200s owners have when i tell them my IS the 1G-FE, not a JZ swap. Nobody expects the 1G to work the way a TTE version does. Its quite a surprise and keeps them guessing.
And i do get some drift action with the auto
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Another topic for discussion
one TTE charged IS200 auto vs Stock RS200 3S-GE auto. No other modification on either cars (TTE IS200 uses stock silverbox piggyback and TTE intake)
TTE IS200 puts out more torque than the RS(240+ vs approx 200?) but RS max power is higher (210hpvs205?) and revs higher.
Its seems that the charged IS gets more power lower in the rpm range than and RS from the dyno charts
RS200 is lighter, (no heated seats etc)
Both cars are using regular street tyres, stock Torsen LSDs and OEM suspensions
From a roll and from a dead start, In a straight line and in a true japanese touge, what do you all think?
and on a side note, which one will drift better
All comments welcomed
Eaton M62
in Supercharging & Turbo Modifications
Posted
found it . this is everything i got in the kit. the parts on the right are the things you'll need when you rebuild - 2 rear bearings, (green boxes) 1 front bearing (blue box) and replacement oil. Rob's rebuild thread will guide you.
It might be hard to get just the supercharger housing. its easier to find a complete charger over here rather than just a shell
second pic was something i found with the supercharger rebuild kit, the TTE supercharger bypass mod to fix the snapped bypass cable problem, complete with instructions. i completely forgot i had it. it sat here for close to 4 years. i planned to install it when i took the charger down for maintenance. i sold the charger setup before i got around to it.