seecarr11

found it . this is everything i got in the kit. the parts on the right are the things you'll need when you rebuild - 2 rear bearings, (green boxes) 1 front bearing (blue box) and replacement oil. Rob's rebuild thread will guide you. It might be hard to get just the supercharger housing. its easier to find a complete charger over here rather than just a shell second pic was something i found with the supercharger rebuild kit, the TTE supercharger bypass mod to fix the snapped bypass cable problem, complete with instructions. i completely forgot i had it. it sat here for close to 4 years. i planned to install it when i took the charger down for maintenance. i sold the charger setup before i got around to it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Mercedes-Benz-C230-Supercharger-New-do-not-have-original-packaging-/331044662546?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d13ccad12&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-MERCEDES-BENZ-C230-KOMPRESSOR-A1110900380-SUPERCHARGER-/281209762810?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41796873fa&vxp=mtr Two links to the superchargers we need, one new, one used. When my charger needed a service, I bought a kit that covered the m62 with a snout, but i used only the parts that our chargers needed I never paid any attention to the shape of the opening to be honest Actually now that u mention it, i think i still have a spare kit somewhere.. i'll post pics of it when i find it or you can buy this kit but you'll save more if you buy your parts separately http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-CLUTCHED-SUPERCHARGER-REFRESH-KIT-/370943878343?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565dfa64c7&vxp=mtr. For anybody that comes to this tread long after these ebay links are dead, search ebay (ebay usa)for "mercedes supercharger" or "supercharger rebuild kit" and you should be able to get the stuff u need. "eaton m62" search will get you too many hits to other types that wont work.

i'm in the caribbean. it would cost you too much to ship over there to be practical. you'll probably save more if you just bought it from a breaker in the uk. if i have any smaller lighter bits that might be easier if you're willing to pay for shipping. let me know what u need and i'll look around the garage and see if its still there. i was getting ready to clean out anyway

i remember this "bank 2 sensor 1":-(. it was the most annoying sensor to fix especially if you had the charger fitted, you have to take everything down to get at its location plus it begin so close to the firewall didnt help either. Once u can reach it you should be alright thou. i gave it a good bath with wd-40 and a got a big 22mm spanner to get some leverage to crack that bad boy out of there, after that just put in the replacement with some anti seize on the thread and you should be good to go. just don't get it on the sensor. i still have my stock manifold here with cats intact and good working order, i would give it to you if i could, no charge. i can't use it now anyway

Sorry, i never did update this threat . I will answer any questions you have just post them up and i'll be sure to reply About the Cradle, i wanted to do the custom fab at first but it was alot more complicated than i thought. I was never able to get detailed drawing and dimensions, so it would have been trail and error to get it done. eventually i just bought support cradle from TTE. It was worth it. You pay more for the R&D, but you get the peace of mind. In any case, after i got it, it was clear without those fab drawings i would have never been able to get it built correctly. There were support points on the engine block i would have never considered if i did it myself and the angles that were required. i probably would have ended up with lots of vibration cause i missed those little things

ok i was able to run the rear lines along the "c" pillars then thru the hole at the base of the pillar, just about the rear dash. from there it fed into the wheel well without a problem. i found a rubber plug in the base of the well, popped them out and fed the line thru. I used some slicone and tie strap as a stop to prevent the lines from coming out as i didnt have the gromet drain plugs the fronts were a differnt story.followed the same as the rear, along the pillar and then through a hole in the metal just above the dash but i couldnt feed the line past the "A"pillars. it kept getting stuck on something so i routed the passanger side thru the drain line gormet for the acc that is just to the left of the ac console and the right side through another stop plug just infront of the driver seat so it drains unto the long splash shield that runs below the car. I made sure there were no pockets or pinch points in the lines so it will be a smooth gravity flow just like lexus intented. i used 3/8" air hose from the local pet shop at the front and 1/2" for the rear. the 1/2 happened to be the same size of the hole in the trunk wheel well so its nice and snug. i should have taken some pics. sorry. if i pull up the floor mat again i will

thanks. does anybody have pictures of the exit points? and that is along the pillars or actually inside the plllars? I'm begining to wonder if i have to drill holes in the chassis for these lines to exit...

Ok i just installed a moon roof from a SXE10, used the wiring diagrams and got it to work in my IS now i need to run the drain lines, does anybody know where there supposed to go? the diagrams say all 4 four corners but they dont show where exactly on the pillars. am i supposed to feed it thru some existing holes in the A pillars and the ones in the back? and where do they exit? anybody has pics? please assist

1. Dont need the jzx100 subframe. get engine brackets from an IS300 with the 2JZ. Get the engine mounts too while you're at it, but the jzx100's mounts will work too 2. the shifter will not be in the same location. you will have either modify your chassis or the shifter location on the transmission (R154 right? v160s require even more mods to fit) also it depends on the R154s from the mk3 supra and soarers have different shift housing extensions 3. the r154 uses a slip on yolk like our IS, but the length is different. you will have to mod. I kept mine auto so i was lucky that the stock USDM IS300 driveshaft was a direct swap. (i swaped the front bit from the tran to the support beering, after that its still stock GXE10 drive train) If its a V160 then you'll have to change to the 3prong bolt type

oh yeah. I agree with monster mat. the stock torsen can handle the power with the usual maintenace. and if you choose to use the chaser diff, you have some options, just drop in the diff and use your output shafts, or just swap the internals with yours, swaping the final drive gearing if you want, (manual chasers are 3.9 autos are 4.1 i think) it will give u the opportunity to change the diff seals if yours developed a leak like mine did. the jzx90, jzx100/110 and gxe10/sxe10 share lots of suspension parts, hence the "X" chassis designation.

i've done this swap with my gxe10. Graham b had alot of helpful info he passed on to me and i will gladly pass it to you if u need it before and after pics

edit. should be SLK230 not C. Anyway here's an old thread on the topic. list of mercs with the right charger inside http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=54589

not if he gets the m62 from the merc 230clk. that was the perfect fit. only the mag clutch mod required

yeah the s15 uses the Aisin J160 just like the IS and the JDM altezza. bellhousing is different (obviously) to mate up with the sr20det thou