Parrot of Doom

This site:

http://www.alignmycar.co.uk/

Recommends a place near Reading:

http://www.elitewheels.co.uk/Alignment.aspx

That picture appears to show the Hunter laser alignment system, which is excellent. If they use that, I recommend you go there. I've had two vehicles on that system and it's superb.

I'm not sure I'd be happy paying to rectify what is essentially a design fault.

Easy enough to clean it yourself if you're that way inclined, it's only a few bolts to remove the air intake system and associated bits. An alcohol-soaked rag around the butterfly and job's a good 'un. Be careful not to drop anything into the intake :)

I have Kumho too, Ecsta or something. They work perfectly well and grip nicely.

I'd take a look first at your engine temperature sender, the car may think the engine is stone cold, thereby running a rich fuel mixture. That certainly isn't good for your catalysers, which will cost a site more than a sensor or two.

Also look at obvious things, like the condition of your air filter.

I agree about not being concerned about loose engine deposits. This is why we have oil filters.

I always put the best oil I can afford in my cars, the last few years that's been Mobil 1 0W-40. I change it between 10-15k

It could be worse, my last car had leaky fuel pump pipes until I replaced them. If you parked nose down it was fine, nose up and the fuel would drain back to the tank, letting air in.

Many a Battery was discharged trying to purge that air before I sorted it :)

I'd also check the exhaust manifold heatshields, you should be able to reach them from above the engine. They're only thin metal and would make exactly the sound you describe.

Looks to me as though something else has failed and electricity has arced across that gap. Simply repairing those tracks might not solve the problem.

Had a similar prob on my mark IV, the problem was the window chrome trim/seal that goes around the top of the door frame. This was letting water through the securing bolt holes on to the plastic door surround which then ran down the trim to exit from the tweeter. The interior trim needs removing to access the seal securing bolts. Once these have been removed the seal can be removed. it apears that a non setting mastic was used at the factory. Once this was cleaned off and replaced everything was fine. Watch the securing clips for the interior trim they break easy.

Hope this helps

mark

Job for next week then. Thanks for the details, I'll try and post a guide if I'm successful.

Just noticed that my mirrors don't appear to be burning off water droplets (as heated mirrors should) so there's another task.

I was sat in the car the other day while it chucked it down outside, and noticed this:

It was leaking on both sides. I'm guessing the water got in through the triangular bit of plastic that the door mirror sits on - there was no wetness anywhere around the door frame.

Anyone else had this, and presumably I'd have to take the door card off to find the culprit? Any online guides?

Drury Lane Services in Oldham. They use the Hunter DSP 600, which I believe is pretty good.

I had them do my last car, which wandered all over the road before they sorted it. After that, it was like a train on rails. The differences on the Lexus aren't anywhere near as profound but I at least know that it was a little bit out, and that the new tyres I'm about to order won't be worn out prematurely.

I decided to have the geometry checked and aligned today. Before and after results:

Not too bad I think for a 14-year-old car. The two red values are because some of the components on the rear were quite badly corroded, the bloke didn't want to risk snapping anything so pushed things as far as he thought safe. Apart from the rear upper arms showing signs of play, he said everything was pretty much ok. Tyres all seem to be wearing evenly too.

I know I have something worn out on the front (bangs when I brake over a pothole) but that isn't too bad. In fact, much better than I was expecting.

I have a BRC system and it doesn't do that. I know the wheel-well tank doesn't have baffles so it can, when only 1/4 full, start beeping if I floor it up a steep hill (slip road for instance).

I don't know why you're getting flustered. "Xenon lights" is a well-known colloquialism for HiD lighting.

Just a quick note, the grommet on mine was very brittle and rock hard, and almost fell inside the rocker cover. Best have a pair of pliers handy :)

I had both my lower balljoints replaced by a trusted mechanic, it's way out of my league.

Have you investigated the brake caliper? The slide pins can move around and make a horrible knocking noise. Also check the anti-roll bar, the bushings are very cheap and it's an easy job to do. The anti-roll bar link rods are another point of failure, mine seem to be ok but on my last car when they went they made a "bubble dudble bubbubub" sound over minor bumps in the road.

First port of call is to have the ECU codes read.

Started her up the other morning (after a few days doing nothing) and I got a big puff of smoke out the exhausts. Nothing too smelly or worrying, just crap left in there. Anyhow, today I checked my engine's PCV valve (right next to the oil filler cap on the mk4) and it was loose as anything - the grommet is rock hard and gases are blowing past. Also, the valve was crudded up inside, pretty badly.

So I've ordered a new one. Worth doing I think. Might be worth you guys checking yours.

If these are HiD bulbs in a standard reflector headlight, you should remove them. You may be able to see better, but as your headlamps are scattering light everywhere (unlike proper projector units) you're blinding everyone around you.

Also, new MOT rules:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/1fj72RCEeUghutT-V6D3eApC0Q_DAUb0enl5Spa8R75Wyb59aj1OTOxPj6JgY/edit?pli=1

I can only think that perhaps in the past, someone has cross-threaded it and glued it back in place. I'd remove the headlamp completely if I were you, to see what's wrong.

If you manage to get it back in securely, my dropbox folder contains the information on how to realign the headlamps.

£0.69 a litre at Worsley Autogas.

If you want someone to blame for the high price of fuel then look to the government. Duty, VAT and inflation.

Which bit?

http://en.gforcepart...U/431210/3/7104

There have been a couple of instances of LS430 gearboxes being destroyed by the transmission intercooler failing (which I think lets water into the gearbox)-it may not be the actual gearbox itself that initially failed but the end result is still the same-a knackered gearbox??

Mercedes suffered a similar problem, glycol contamination in their W211 cars. Except it wasn't the gearbox that was destroyed, it was the torque converter. Usually reveals itself as a thrumming sound.