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Parrot of Doom

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Everything posted by Parrot of Doom

  1. The ride height sensor failed on my old LS400. It was the metal part with ball joints at either end. I replaced it with a bent meat skewer and that worked perfectly.
  2. Put wads of kitchen roll or toilet paper around the footwell, above where the water pools. The paper will get wet as the water passes through it, but not wet from the pooled water below it. That way, you'll be able to find out where it's coming from. From thereon it's just a matter of tracing it up through the car.
  3. I haven't used my car's satnav since I put my Android phone in a cradle, on the dash. "Ok Google, navigate to BL4 0DH". "OK Google, navigate home". So easy, and it reroutes you around traffic problems automatically.
  4. This should be a warranty issue. I bought an RX400h from a main dealer, a few months later I discovered a hole in the exhaust. They didn't want to know so I got Lexus UK involved on Twitter. The dealer had their arse kicked and I got a whole new exhaust system. That is a ripoff, just go to ECP or similar and fit it yourself. No tools required. As long as the CV joint is still working properly I wouldn't worry about this yet. Another ripoff. Just replace the shocks with compatible units, any garage can easily do this, it's a common job. The lower control arm bushes - I bet they're quoting for new arms. You can either get a garage you trust to source new bushings and install on the existing units, or you can buy whole new arms yourself and have a local garage install them (don't buy cheap Chinese rubbish from Ebay). Either option is way cheaper than their quote. Lol, ARB bushings are very cheap to install. Any garage can do this at a fraction of that price. Let your MOT station determine this. Not a serious issue unless the car is wandering around on the road, or the tyres are wearing abnormally. Don't do anything here until the suspension has been worked on. Fix the most important issues first, NOT at a Lexus dealer but at a local garage (maybe find a Toyota specialist, they're all the same bits). Work on the minor issues as and when you can afford them. Then enjoy the car, it will last a long time.
  5. Took it back to Kwikfit this morning, who recharged it free of charge. They said it was showing about 500g of refrigerant (it should be 600g plus or minus 50g). Anyway, car seems to be working fine now, so I'll see how it goes.
  6. If I recall correctly, the DVD player beneath the seats is just wired up with composite video and audio (yellow and red phono leads). I'd check mine but it's raining. If I'm correct, you should be able to connect anything down there that's standard definition PAL.
  7. Greetings, the aircon has been fine for the 4.5 years I've owned the car, however, a couple of months back I decided to have it recharged as I suspected it wasn't quite as cold as it could be. Cold, but not "this is a new car and I'm sitting in a freezer" cold. I got the local Kwik Fit to do the job and that made a slight difference, perhaps half a degree cooler, and thought no more of it. However, lately, the aircon is blowing cold only on the passenger side. Driver's side is just plain old fresh air. The mixing flaps seem fine, I set it to full heat and back to cold and it did what I expected, but just fresh air, no chilled air. Oddly enough, on the motorway, if I'm descending or ascending a steep hill, the aircon comes on. This makes me think the system is low on refrigerant. It isn't the passenger/driver controls on dual. But today, when scanning for codes in the ECU (none logged) I had the car idling outside my house. I could hear the compressor from inside the car, engine running or not. I know it's the compressor because if I turn the AC button off in the display, it shuts down. Here's a video: The engine fan is running, you can hear the compressor behind it, buzzing away. Can I ask other members to check if that's a normal compressor sound, or is mine much louder than it should be? I suspect it's louder than it should be.
  8. If a good battery is going flat after a few days then you have an electrical problem. The car should be able to sit for weeks at a time without the battery going flat.
  9. The battery is twelve years old. Don't be tight, replace it.
  10. Bought mine in 2013 (IIRC), so far the only things that have gone wrong are the front nearside caliper sticking (replacement wasn't expensive) and the cigarette lighter doesn't power up. Oh and the nearside door mirror sometimes doesn't position itself correctly when reversing. I do about 10,000 a year. The steering feels a bit hesitant lately so at 11-12 years old and 110,000 miles I reckon some bits need replacing, but apart from that it's been absolutely fine. Yes, they're expensive cars, but servicing will only be expensive at a dealer. Find a Toyota/Lexus specialist and you'll be fine. My cambelt and spark plugs were changed for a fraction of the dealer price above. Oh and Lexus keys of 2005 vintage are absolute rubbish, they break where the blade meets the fob. Always.
  11. Depends where you are in Lancashire, but I went to Charlesworth Motors (near Glossop) for my 100k service and they were fine.
  12. Timpsons will cut you a new key, I had one done a few months back. It's just a Toyota key, the one Timpsons sell has a slightly longer blade but is otherwise identical. I say identical, it also has the same crap design as the typical Lexus key, which means that it too will eventually break.
  13. Go to Charlesworth Motors near Glossop. Much cheaper than the dealer. No marble floors or espresso maker, but you at least won't need to remortgage.
  14. Warranties are designed primarily to make a profit for those who offer them. These are very reliable cars, you don't need a warranty. And even if something big does break, you can fix it with the money you didn't spend on a warranty.
  15. I think you wasted your money going to a main dealer. I paid a fraction of those costs having mine serviced at the same mileage at a Toyota/Lexus specialist near Glossop. I didn't need new shocks but the quote you received is gobsmacking. There's nothing special about these cars that makes that price realistic, they're just ordinary shocks and springs. I wouldn't be surprised if they replaced everything in that stack, even if it didn't need replacing. I think I paid around £6-700 for the service including belt and tensioner, plus a brand new front caliper.
  16. A one mile commute. One mile. I know people use cars for purposes other than commuting, but really, driving a mile to work? I'd walk.
  17. It's an eleven-year-old car, suspension components are going to be worn. Whether they're worn beyond a point they could be considered roadworthy is another question, but if the car passes an MOT then I'd be surprised if the dealer will replace those bushings. I've had a couple of cars laser aligned at a place in Oldham, it's well worth doing if you intend to keep the car for any length of time, although bear in mind that they can't fix the alignment of components that are excessively worn - the only cure for those is to replace them.
  18. Haven't the foggiest. I've just done 60 miles on the bike so I'm not going out in the cold to check again today :)
  19. I have a Transcend DP520, no need for video playback because you just connect over wifi to your phone and play back on that.
  20. The remote I have is this PZ462-E8370-01 Remote Control 2003 05-06-2005 100013 E13 10R-02 1956
  21. The insurance company may write it off but that's a bureaucratic measure only. There's nothing to keep anyone from buying it from the insurance company, fixing the faults, and putting it back on the road.
  22. I have an Android phone (Xperia Z2 on Android 5.1.1) and I too hear no "brrrp brrrp" when making calls.
  23. The "hybrid computer module" will be nothing more than a box of electronics. I'd imagine any ECU repair outfit would be able to sort that for a fraction of £1,000.
  24. I'd check that the air intake wherever the temperature sensor is isn't blocked with fluff.
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