johnatg

:flowers: - (They wouldn't allow me to use the ROTFL emoticon I wanted to!)

Apologies, George - but like a honey bee to a sugar trap!

Good one, Eric!!!!

Hmm - you may have a faulty fob - take it apart and examine it closely, especially where the buttons are 'under the skin'. Make sure everything is in the right place and there's no damage to solder etc - not that you can do much about that.

Do you have another key? (not linked?)

Might be worth re-linking the one you have partly working and any others. Need Techstream for that - Lexus dealer, or you can't be a million miles away from me - send me a pm and tell me where you are.

Usually the problem is with seized slide pins.

I never quite understand why front calipers need to be replaced for this - you can virtually always get the pins out because they have hexagons and are in 'open' holes. Once the pin is out you can clean everything up and if necessary replace the pins and dust seals.

The rears are different - one of the pins goes in a blind hole. This can seize - often the caliper can be worked off, but sometimes it is just impossible to remove the caliper from the pin without damage.

If you can separate the caliper from the pins, the caliper at least can be saved.

Sometimes of course it is possible for the piston to seize in the caliper - then you can rebuild the caliper but it's a lot of work and may not be worthwhile. As long as the caliper is undamaged you can exchange at much lower cost than new ones (but check with Lexus, especially for the rears - sometimes they have special offers). But you always need to get the caliper off the mounts if you get exchange calipers - they don't come with mounts!

Speaking from personal experience - I damaged a caliper trying to get it off the mount. In the end, I cut it off (by cutting through the pin with an angle grinder) - probably should have done that right away, then exchanged the caliper - the rebuild people accept ones with pins etc stuck in them, but not if you've damaged the caliper by hammering it (!) or tried to drill out a seized bleed screw.

To avoid all this grief, remove the calipers from the pins on a regular (annual?) basis and clean and grease the pins and holes they slide in! This is not included in Lexus service schedules - it should be.

Does the fob work for starting the car (properly wirelessly, rather than holding the fob by the start button)?

Maybe the fob has not been coded correctly to the car, or maybe the drivers door lock has been changed - but actually that shouldn't make any difference. Does the mechanical key fit the door lock?

Do you have two key fobs or just the one?

Jon - I see you have rim protectors - which brand are they and do they cause any problems? Did you fit them or get them done? Cost?

Thanks

Hmm..just got my spare key out, only to find it was completely non-op due to the Battery being flat. Changed the Battery (CR1632 if you're interested!) and tried it. As I thought - windows down with press and hold the unlock button doesn't work.

It's a function of the power window ecu, not the key. Therefore disabling it (as I have) 'works' with both keys.

Frankly, I don't have much personal angst about this. Whilst in general I am not a fan of the EU, I am in favour of the Block Exemption Regulation.

According to the UK Department of Business Education & Skills, the empowerment created by this law provides competition in the automobile industry as vehicle owners now have the opportunity to repair and service their vehicle at alternative workshops to the automobile manufacturers. BER provides automobile users the flexibility and benefit to reduce the amount spent on servicing, thereby providing consumers more choice and better value for money.

The car manufacturers have resisted this legislation for all they are worth, making the availability of tools to access the computers built in to their vehicles as difficult and expensive as they can get away with. In the olden days you could open things up with a spanner or screwdriver and fix them. Now you can't.

I am all in favour of anything which helps to enforce the EU regulation (which is the law). We should be able to fix our cars ourselves or go to a local garage which can afford to buy the necessary diagnostic/access equipment at sensible prices.

PS - same goes for Workshop manuals and parts lists.

That driver has already been removed by Microsoft as it was found to brick a number of devices.

The manufacture will be releasing an updating 'non-invasive' driver next week and will come out in the next Patch Tuesday (11th Nov).

Any driver found to take malicious action to any hardware would be a breach of the Microsoft Update policy.

I can't wait for the next driver update...

Forgot to mention...as long as the driver which comes with the cable is installed then it'll keep on working.

You can check - before plugging in the cable (!) double click on WinDriver under Vehicle Interface Module in Device Manager (right click on computer, choose Properties and then select Device Manager if you didn't know). It should show driver supplied by Denso Corporation, dated 12/03/10, version 9.0.1.0

Just a note to say thanks to PilgrimIS and see the thread about 'Windows down but car locked this morning'!

Quote:

That's odd - they are T10 - W5W equivalent. According to my handbook they should be T15 (W16W). Is that wrong? (Never been in there, but I've converted some of my other bulbs to LED)

Just checked in my Owners Handbook P16 - yep - door unlock button - push and hold - opens the windows and Moon Roof (if you've got one!) Brilliant eh - especially since all my remote controls for my cars frequently operate if the keys are in my pocket and I bend down or something.

Customisation for Power Windows (P391) is a bit confusing, but where there's a will there's a way!

It's happened on mine two or three times.

I notice that on the thread about Diagnostics and Customisation there's a feature in the pictures posted by PilgrimIS - 'Power Window' - things such as Down/Wireless and Down/Door Key - hmm - must have a play.

I'll get back if I solve it. Won't be today though.

BTW - although it sounds only reasonable to be able to disable it, I suspect a dealer would charge a not inconsiderable sum for the privilege

You don't need them - they are for other models (some Toyotas)

That's because Abington is miles from anywhere! V-Power is reasonably priced in the central belt (Edinburgh/Glasgow areas) - I usually judge my range to fill up at the Forth Road Bridge Shell, which is relatively cheap. The one near Gretna Green isn't too bad when going north, if you need a top up.

Shell stations north of the central belt are few and far between - there weren't many anyway and most that there were have been sold and are now Jet or Texaco or whatever (eg Blairgowrie - was Shell - now Jet).

Shell (and other brands) on motorways is/are always a stupid price - avoid!

I'd go by the label on the door - the vehicle prep people often assume it's one colour when it's actually another. 212 is Obsidian Black - very similar but different from 202 Astral Black (also described as Black Onyx).

And Obsidian was the only black listed for 2007 IS250.

One hours work once a year by you or mechanic to clean and grease the sliders = no further trouble!

That sounds somewhat OTT. I've done that job (not the plugs) earlier this year.

Mtec discs and redstuff pads - £160.(Much cheaper and perfectly adequate ones are available). 2 new rear calipers (because it wasn't just freeing off!) - £120 (Special Lexus dealer price, but you can get refurbed ones if necessary for much the same price). 4 wheels refurbed (will they match if you only do 2?) - £260.

You can get plugs on eBay for about £75.

Total £615. Plus - shouldn't be more than 4 hours labour for the whole thing?

Get a quote from an independent garage - none of it is hard or specialist (with the possible exception of the plugs, but plenty of guides on threads here)

Yep - my IS250 is the same.

You'll soon remember to put it in 'P' before switching off!

I guess it depends on exact build date - it could be that these later cars are for the fuel delivery pipe - or maybe another batch of fauly brake master cylinder parts came in after the earler recalled lot. Or maybe some cars have already been fixed, perhaps during a service with a previous owner

I think the .eu site linked in my original post may tell you which recall(s) is/are outstanding for a particular car?

(Mine is not subject to recall - reg Apr 2006 - I think built Dec 2005)

Battery, alternator or earthing point glitch?

(Clutching at straws, though!)

Er...I think that's about as far as it's wise to go, Ishaq - Lexus copyright and all that!

The manuals commonly available on eBay and other on-line sources are usually only up to date to about 2008. I guess they are still pretty useful for most jobs on the car though - most of the vital bits haven't changed - maybe not even with the new models. Not sure how different the IS200Ds (from ~2011) were though - probably not much for anything you might want to d-i-y.

Bit confusing really - the US TSB refers to the 4GR-FSE which is used in the IS250 - but the NZ one refers to the 2GR-FSE which is a 3.0/3.5/4.0L engine used in the IS350 and GS models etc, and is also popular for racing and road conversions of some Toyota models (MR2 for example). But the NZ sheet also refers to the IS250 - did they do some for the Antipodes with bigger engines? But then why aren't they IS350s?

Being realistic, I don't think there is any chance whatsoever of getting Lexus to do anything about this. The TSB specifically states that the repair is only applicable if a customer complains within the warranty period (which I don't think applies to UK) which is limited to 72 months or 72000 miles. So we're out of time anyway, even with that rule. And there is an industry standard - I don't know if it's written down anywhere or not - that manufacturers wash their hands of all cars over 7 years old.

And there just aren't enough people on this forum to make any impression on Lexus (especially with 2006/2007 model year cars, which means 2005/2006 cars in UK terms)

The problem doesn't sound particularly serious and the noise may not be due to cam gear wear anyway. Start-up rattle is often caused by infrequent oil changes and not flushing and is caused by hydraulic valve lifters sticking or not pressurising.

I'll bang on again - ignore extended service intervals (that applies to all cars ragardless of manufacturer), change the oil at half the intervals recommended and use engine flush at every oil change. The noise may well go away - and even if it doesn't it seems unlikely that any harm will result.

I may be wrong, of course!

Morning people.

Apparently Toyota/Lexus have issued a recall for a large number (1.7M or so) vehicles including IS models for a possible brake master cylinder defect and a possible fuel delivery pipe defect. If you're registered as the owner with Lexus they will presumably contact you directly in due course.

I don't think there's anything to be worried about in the short term, but you can check if your car is affected here: http://www.lexus-tech.eu/

You have to register (free) then follow 'Owner' then 'Campaign Information' on the drop down menu.

Enter your VIN and the page will tell you if there's a current campaign affecting you.