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johnatg

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johnatg last won the day on March 7 2020

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    John
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    GS300h Premier
  • Year of Lexus
    2014
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    Cheshire
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  1. Does that apply to the pre-facelift GS300h, as I see that is also not on the list of cars for the security fix?
  2. Have you checked all the earth points for engine and 12v battery? Make sure all are clean and properly making contact with the body/engine/battery terminal.
  3. An interesting and useful comparison. My car is a GS300h Premier, pre face lift. A couple of nit-picks: My car has RCTA and head-up display. It has 18" wheels and the larger discs - I didn't know 17" wheels wouldn't fit but can well believe it. The sat nav shows speed limits (not always accurately, but my last map update was 2019). I think that improvements/spec changes are incremental and come in randomly during model life, so some pre face lift will have features that others don't and that probably carries on for post face lift as well. I don't think the ride is all that wonderful - I'd agree with the post somewhere that gave it 6/10. I understand that pre facelift cars are Euro V and post are Euro VI My road tax is £25 per annum. I love my car and expect to keep it for many years!
  4. Definitely sell it - it must be much too good to scrap. If you want minimum fuss and no risk you could try carconverter.co.uk I think most of the 'cash for your car' type people won't quote for cars over 15 years old but carconverter say any age. Or there's Autotrader but then you've got potentially quite a lot of hassle (crooks, people not turning up, time wasters, bouncing cheques or bank drafts, etc) Or send it straight to auction - BCA etc. Better all round if it has a MoT (but don't worry about any other tarting up - you're unlikely to recoup the cost)! The battery should just need jumping and you may be able to get the tyre fixed at low cost (borrow a pump?)
  5. I think it depends to an extent on how long you plan to keep the car. If you are going to drive it for say 4 more years or past 150K it might be judicious to change the gearbox oil in the near future. Otherwise probably don't bother. 'Lifetime' fluids don't necessarily mean real lifetime when a car gets older - most manufacturers don't really expect their cars to last more than about 15 years or 150K miles and if you're still driving then you're on your own! Having said that I'm sure there are GS cars around with many more miles without the fluid being changed (as Colin just said whilst I was typing this reply 🙂) IMHO The GS300h uses the L210 transmission - GS450h cars use the L110 transmission. It looks rather easier to change the fluid in the L210 so it shouldn't cost too much. Probably best to have it done by a Lexus dealer or a really experienced indy. You can change most of the fluid in one go - the 'bit at a time' as per Lexus auto transmissions doesn't apply to the CVT boxes.
  6. There's an auto headlight function. Whether the lights are then on high or dip beam depends on the position of the headlight lever (switch). There isn't an auto dip function on my 2014 car - I don't know if there is on facelift Phase 4 GS cars. Personally I hate auto headlights. People depend on them too much, and there are lots of situations where headlights are necessary (or at least desirable) where the auto function doesn't work - eg in fog, rain, low sun etc.
  7. Worthwhile using an aircon 'bomb'. That will at least eliminate the aircon system itself (or should!)
  8. Push the lever forwards - away from you. Then backward for dip. Pull again towards you for main beam flash. If pushing away from you doesn't put main beam on, you have a fault.
  9. Your OBD2 scanner probably only shows engine faults, which you don't have. A failing battery is not an engine fault.
  10. Try resetting the TPMS. Set the pressures you want manually with a compressor (maybe at a garage). Then locate a hard-to-see button under the dash - it's about central and set back from the edge of the dash. There are two buttons there - one is for TPMS and one for AFS. Press and hold the TPMS button until the tyre pressure warning light blinks 3 times (you need to have power on while doing this) See the Owners manual!
  11. Welcome to the Lexus GS OC! It seems that we aren't very familiar with this code. Personally I have no idea, but see here: B2287 Lexus Code Meaning, Causes, Symptoms, & Tech Notes (engine-codes.com) The code indicates a wiring or ECU fault but it could be anywhere. Check for chafing of wires or any obvious damaged areas Good luck!
  12. PS - Hazel - if you have or can get hold of an endoscope you might be able to find a clean cylinder by looking through a plug hole - might save having to remove one cylinder head. But again - I hope it's not that - removing a head on these engines is a real task! Mention of a recent overheating problem doesn't bode well though.
  13. Not if it's going directly from a water passage to a cylinder. You only get water in the oil if there's a leak between an oil passage and a water passage. If there's no leak into an oil passage but there is to a cylinder the water will just get vapourised and blown out of the exhaust. Water leaking into a cylinder actually improves combustion....for a while. My supercharged MX-5 has water injection - it's there to act as an intercooler but it keeps the cylinders nice and clean!
  14. Here's a video of how it's done. But I'm afraid - if you can't see the leak from outside the engine, the coolant is likely to be going inside - ie into a cylinder via a head gasket. Hopefully it's not that.
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