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johnatg last won the day on June 20 2016

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About johnatg

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    Classic Cars
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  1. Quite possibly = all the electronics are very sensitive to voltage and if your alternator was not charging the voltage would have been low and possibly varying under varying loads. Get the alternator tested before committing to buying a new one (it might just be something in the wiring) and check the possibility of a rebuild - there are lots of specialist companies offering that - usually vastly cheaper than buying new or exchange.
  2. Mine were and actually they were probably perfectly OK for a good few more miles and years yet!
  3. I finally got around to replacing my spark plugs on Saturday. Mileage 67000 - I said I wouldn't do it until 100K but now that the Denso recommended plugs are Iridium Denso IKBH20TT rather than the original Platinum plugs and are available for £42 something a set I decided to plunge in. I also replaced the surge tank to manifold gaskets (3 off) - I bought them from RockAuto for about £19 including postage. I've watched the video on YouTube but haven't been able to find a workshop manual type guide for this job, so I've put one together so you can print it off and keep it handy whilst doing the job.. It uses the Lexus instructions for removal of the coils (which then gives you access to the plugs), an exploded diagram of the relevant part of the intake system and some notes which might help. You have to remove the air surge tank (incidentally this is not the inlet manifold, as frequently mis-stated, here and elsewhere). Most of the excess time for the job goes on a few frustrating things - the stupid inaccessible bolt on the back of the surge tank, the clip for the main power feed from the battery and a couple of other things. I'm sure that if it weren't for them the job could take an hour, but as it is, allow an afternoon! At least I have the satisfaction of having saved a wedge of money compared with dealer charges and I know the job has been dome properly. Incidentally I wondered whilst doing the job if the surge tank had really been removed only a couple of years ago when the fuel pressure sensor seal was replaced - or was it? I began to wonder if the dealer had just used some sort of sniffer, decided the seal was OK and done nothing. They had the car for a suspiciously short time and did a video of various safety checks too. It just felt as if no-one had been in there for 12 years, not just two years ago. Might be my imagination! IS250 spark plug replacement.pdf
  4. That's not how the IS models are arranged. There's no radiator cap as such - the pressure cap is located on the thermostat housing and is described as the 'Radiator pressure cap'. The header tank has a non-pressure cap. I suspect the OP has a head gasket problem. You don't necessarily get mayonnaise or other signs of oil leakage into the oil. The water can just go one way through a failing gasket - the failure point can act as a one way valve. Relatively small amounts of water don't show up in the exhaust - my MX-5 has water injection and nothing shows in the exhaust! I agree with Terence - you need a pressure check - sooner rather than later.
  5. When you put new pads in the pistons have to be fully retracted into the housings (even with solid discs) . I don't see how there could be room for wider discs. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  6. I would think you have no chance of getting it fixed under warranty. If it's not too bad, sand down the damaged area to get it as smooth as you can (doesn't need to be perfect) then touch it up with matching paint - something like Halfords Wheel Silver, maybe, if your wheels are the original colour, or look in the car paint greys or whatever if they have been refinished in something darker. You might need to experiment a bit to get a good match - perhaps even mix two colours. Be careful not to get paint on the tyre - that looks awful. Then it will hardly show. It won't be your last scuff. Eventually your wheels will blister (if they haven't already) or get altogether too scuffed and then you can think about a proper wheel refurb job. If it is really bad, you could contact a local smart repair operator, but that's relatively expensive and as I said, it won't be the last scuff - wheels with low profile tyres scuff very easily.
  7. They wouldn't be refurbished if they came from Lexus Liverpool - I would think they would only sell new stuff. (Brake factors sell refurbished ones). I bought a pair (note you should always replace brake components both sides at the same time) just over 4 years ago and they were described as modified. Don't get too excited - they look exactly the same as the old ones and they are just as liable to seize the slider pins - mine went sticky after the standard year and I've cleaned and greased the pins annually since fitting. I'm not sure, but it's possible these £79.99 ones are for solid discs (as I have). The vented disc versions are different (wider to accommodate the thicker disc). Has anyone with vented discs paid this 'bargain' price? (not that you wouldn't have paid anything if Lexus had designed the things properly in the first place). (Note for newcomers here - this all refers to rear brakes)
  8. Excellent - I have never noticed any degradation when wet. Of course, the holes and grooves in the discs probably help.
  9. Depends where you are in Cheshire. Two places I can recommend: 1) Highams, Alderley Edge (close to Alderley Edge station which might be handy) 01565 582223 or probably lower cost: 2) Technocars - ask for Simon - they are a bit in the middle of nowhere on a farm in Marthall, near Chelford. They could probably give you a lift to Alderley Edge or Knutsford. 01565 873588 Simon would fit your own parts - not sure about Highams (some garages aren't happy to do that - they feel they loose control re warranty etc) Don't use a dealer whatever you do. You probably don't need new calipers - the pins should/may free up - but dealers won't even try.
  10. I have just replaced my EBC Redstuff pads with another set of the same. They lasted 26000 miles. I did say some time back that I would use Yellowstuff next time as I have experienced fade on a couple of occasions but only under extreme conditions - I know a few roads where I can guarantee to get the brakes to fade point (in any car) if there's no traffic and I'm in the mood! But I have since discovered that Redstuff are claimed to be the only pads which don't contain metal (they are Kevlar/Ceramic) - this means they produce very little dust and what dust they do produce is easily washed off. Yellowstuff are more heat resistant but they contain metal (as do all other pads, apparently) and they produce a lot of dust and like most brake dust it will be a pig to get off - the metal particles eat into the paint on the wheel. This tallies with my experience and talking to people who use Yellowstuff (mostly on race cars). Hence my sticking with Redstuff. Both Redstuff and Yellowstuff are expensive - about £90 for Red and £105 for Yellow. I use MTEC drilled and grooved discs - they are still in good condition after one set of Redstuff pads.
  11. Next up for ULEZs - Birmingham, Leeds, Nottingham, Derby and Southampton by 2020. I checked mine against the 'check your vehicle' list (which actually is the London checker) - shows I'd have to pay. I can see some disputes coming up!
  12. Knackered battery? Is it the original? Modern batteries do tend to fail without much, or any, warning. It might respond to a charge.
  13. I have one from Laser - - tool no 4880. It has three cutouts on one side and one on the other, but actually I think the filter housing only has one lug on each side. It looks pretty much identical to the one I referenced. Don't know where it's made but I'm afraid almost everything is made in China these days - even if the packaging is made in UK! They are available on eBay and Amazon, but I notice there is a rather cheaper one available from Sealey (also reputable) on Amazon. That has three cutouts each side. Dunno why the number of cutouts varies - maybe for other applications.
  14. No problem! Pleased that you take an interest in us! 😊
  15. There are quite a few ads for housings on eBay - mostly from China or USA. But it's only an ally can - the chinese ones should be perfectly OK. Cost about £12. (Look for IS250 ones - they are the same for IS220D) One odd thing - the specified torque setting for IS250 housing is 18 - for the IS220D it's 30