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johnatg last won the day on November 17 2018

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About johnatg

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  1. It depends - probably a bit steep for paint, or was he talking powder coat? I was faced with the decision late last year. I went for new aftermarket wheels - about £1200 with Continental PremiumContact 6 tyres (17"). But if you get the wheels refurbed get them powder coated. I had mine painted (with paint) about 5 years ago and regretted it! They just blistered again within 18 months But I bought some well shot alloy wheels for my MX-5 about 3 years ago. I had them powder coated and they still look like the day they came back from refurb (but it doesn't get used in the winter) Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  2. Yep - min front brake disc thickness is 25mm in workshop manual- not sure what is etched into the rim of the disc but the minimum is always specced there as well. My car has solid rear discs - original thickness is 8mm, minimum 6.5mm. According to Lexus minimum pad thickness is 1mm, but the MoT spec is 2mm and you will get an Mot fail for less than 2mm. 2mm is somewaht lower than where the slot ends, so the slot can (usually) be completely gone before the pads are illegal
  3. I'm afraid I agree with Jack. Almost certainly the head gasket has failed. The fact that the coolant is just water rather shows that this has been the case for some time. It is catastrophic to run a car with plain water coolant - a rusted rad is the least of the worries - it will corrode the engine internals in no time. 'Antifreeze' is not just there for stopping the coolant freezing - it plays a vital role in preventing corrosion in the engine
  4. Well - Lexus - IS-F. OK it's a 5 litre V8. What's the point of trying to mod a 250 - you'd need to update the entire drive train, brakes, suspension, etc. A whole lot easier and better to just trade in the 250 for an F. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  5. Did you know: 1) Run flat tyres can be driven on when punctured - but only for about 50 miles max at 30 mph - limits vary with brand but that's typical. 2) Most tyre places follow the puncture repair code of practice - which says that run flat tyres cannot be repaired. (Because running them in excess of the limits above may have damaged the structure, but the potential damage isn't visible) 😦
  6. You need Techstream (runs on a laptop). Available for purchase on popular auction sites.
  7. Indeed. Why are you thinking of buying a diesel? The type of toys fitted will be the least of your problems. And stay away from Halfrauds!
  8. Not a lot of response! But it's hard to tell from here. Might well be connected - but might not. Check all the usual things - fuelling in particular - possibility of an air leak in the fuel supply? One or more fauly injectors? Blocked fuel filter? Or a very blocked dpf - but that's not likely if it was more or less OK except for cold running before. Or off-the-wall unlikely things such as timing chain or crank position sensor?
  9. Your car does have an EGR valve and it probably needs cleaning! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  10. Yep - sounds like a dpf problem - possibly needs some good blasts to regenerate. You need to do at least something like 20 miles a day on deristricted roads (by limits or traffic) or 50 miles once a week if you drive any modern diesel with a dpf. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  11. PS - whether or not it's the correct diagnosis is of course another matter altogether.
  12. IS220D models do have an air fuel ratio sensor - see attached pic. Not sure if it's actually an oxygen sensor as used in petrol models but it is clearly what the first guy meant. From the workshop manual it looks as though you have to remove the front seat together with loads of trim and access the sensor via a hatch in the floor. Don't know if there are easier ways.
  13. I use Comma Engine flush - you can buy a box of 6 on eBay for £15.84 on a current listing. Seems to work well. I don't think there's much to choose between any of the readily available brands of engine flush.
  14. Indeed - I had a rear lining detach like that on a Pug 205 of my wife's years ago - ended up destroying the brake hub in getting it off. So yes - I do agree, they need checking and possibly replacing even on cars where the rear shoes only operate as a parking brake.
  15. The front calipers only have one piston - they slide (and seize) just like the rears. But the slide pins are effectively bolts and have hexagons, so you can release them with a suitable spanner and if necessary a bit of wellie. Also they are less likely to seize than the rears as they do more work so keep moving more. Rear shoes shouldn't wear at all - they only wear if you drive off with the parking brake applied. You never do that, do you? 😉