johnatg

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johnatg last won the day on June 20 2016

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About johnatg

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  • First Name
    John
  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    IS250
  • Year of Lexus
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cheshire
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Certainly not part of the Mot. And no more than a visual check (including electrolyte level when there are cell caps) at the service. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  2. The car would have been in transit and storage for quite a while. It was probably actually built in about August 08. No reason to change a battery (or anything else) if it still works OK. Presumably it was starting the car fine when you bought it? Modern batteries often fail without warning - just one of the hazards of running an older car.
  3. Fair enough - you'll need the alternator checking as well. It's hard to tell if a battery is OK without a comprehensive test - just because it takes a quick emergency charge and gives reading for a while doesn't mean much Note that you are unlikely to get a type 068 battery at Halfords, and don't let them fob you off with something else (which might or might not do the job). The one you link to is a type 031 - completely wrong. Search for type 068 on Google - EuroCar Parts and Car Parts4Less usually sell them, but they won't list the 068 as correct for the IS250. That seems to be a secret known only to us on here!
  4. Probably the battery is knackered - it happens. Suggest you just get a new one - you need a type 068 (rare - most likely won't be in stock in your local battery shop). You'll find people here recommend Bosch S4026 or Varta E23 (they are identical to all intents and purposes) A dealer will charge the earth, both for the battery and fitting. You can get one yourself and fit it for about £80 or so.
  5. 17" wheels have 225 at the front and 245 at the rear - factory fitment. 18" wheels have 225 front and 255 rear. Check your handbook for standard tyre sizes.
  6. Hmm...I don't think it can be anything to do with power - the IS250C has the same power as IS250 and 200bhp-ish is adequate for basic towing. Maybe the IS250C has structural characteristics which make it unsuitable (or less suitable) for towing - it will have a whole lot of underfloor reinforcement to compensate for not having a solid roof. (I know it has a tin roof but it's not the same as having a continuous roof with no joints). It's why convertibles are a good deal heavier than the corresponding saloon and even then a lot of them are a bit flexi to say the least. (Ever driven a Saab convertible?) My MX-5 has quite a few add-on (by me) braces to make it a bit stiffer than standard, but you can still feel a good twist and shake on potholes etc.! (And you can't tow with MX-5s built after the type-approval towbar thing came in - that was about 1998.)
  7. If it's the same as a hardtop IS250, it's only in Singapore that towing is not recommended. (What the hell is the difference with vehicles for Singapore?) Otherwise the tow limit is 1500Kg with a braked trailer or 560Kg unbraked. But note the oil cooling provisos above and the general warnings about adverse effects on the car when towing. (see handbook - in mine it's P171.) You can only fit a type-approved towbar for towing in Europe (inc UK) and if towing was forbidden in the vehicle specs you would not be able to get a type approved towbar.
  8. Possibly because it has a rather small, water-cooled transmission oil cooler. Perhaps you could ask an auto transmission specialist if there's any possibility of fitting a larger air-cooled oil cooler. Depends what you want to tow really. If it's a water bike or small dinghy on a trailer you shouldn't have a problem - if it's a large caravan you might.
  9. The SGS ones work for me but I've not had them for long. No reason to doubt them so far and they look like good quality. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  10. It opens a couple of inches then you need a light one finger lift to get it going. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  11. Yep - see my recent post under 2008 IS250 boot strut part number. You do need to start the lid off with light finger pressure. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  12. Just got round to replacing my boot struts. Before, it needed a fair haul to raise the boot lid and it dropped like a stone if I wasn't careful enough. Now it shoots up after a short easy one-finger lift as in Chris's video and it needs a good pull down to close it. Note on fitting - if you have a workshop manual, it tells you to strip out pretty much the whole boot. This is quite unnecessary - what you do is: Unclip the boot light and remove the plug. Remove the two rope hooks in the roof of the boot - they have release catches front and rear - just squeeze them and the hooks pull out easily. Pull the upper boot liner rearwards slightly - this releases four clips along the rear edge of the liner. The liner will drop down sufficiently to get at the struts (it's a bit of a reach to the back). Unclip the back end of the strut by bending the 'ears' of the stainless steel clip away from the lug with a small screwdriver. The strut now just pulls off. At the front, again using a small screwdriver, remove the retaining clip and pull the strut off the ball joint. Just push the new strut on to the lug at the back and the ball joint at the front. It clips in to place. You should be able to do one at a time - one strut seems to be sufficient to hold the boot lid in the open position. When replacing the liner - make sure that the plug/wire for the boot light is poking through the hole for the light, lift the liner into position making sure that the four locating clips along the rear edge engage properly and replace the rope hooks - they just clip in. Plug in the boot light and clip it in to place. It is a bit tight. Make sure that the edge of the rubber trim around the boot covers the edge of the boot liner. Job done. I got the struts from SGS - £52.78 inc postage for the pair. The new struts are actually branded nitrolift.com - Nitro-Lift services LLC appears to be a US Nitrogen services company. Don't worry about the IS300 thing on SGS web site - those are the correct struts for IS250 and IS220D etc. And don't bother to try and find part numbers etc on the original struts - they carry the logo for KYB (a well known shock absorber etc company) and some japanese writing - no numbers.
  13. And it only seems to work if it's actually in a pocket or handbag (or held in the hand) of the person touching the door handle sensor. Magic!
  14. It's unlikely you need to get to the pipes. Have you tried clearing the jets with a pin?
  15. Probably about 2½ hours start to finish, but as I mentioned, there are a few frustrating things - inaccessible bolts, stupid clips, buried bolts needing a slim hex drive tool - once you've done the job and are prepared for them I'm sure it could be done in an hour. But this isn't a job you're going to repeat that often! Fundamentally you only have to disconnect/reconnect maybe a dozen clips and a couple of dozen nuts and bolts.