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johnatg last won the day on June 20 2016

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About johnatg

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  1. It's unlikely you need to get to the pipes. Have you tried clearing the jets with a pin?
  2. Probably about 2½ hours start to finish, but as I mentioned, there are a few frustrating things - inaccessible bolts, stupid clips, buried bolts needing a slim hex drive tool - once you've done the job and are prepared for them I'm sure it could be done in an hour. But this isn't a job you're going to repeat that often! Fundamentally you only have to disconnect/reconnect maybe a dozen clips and a couple of dozen nuts and bolts.
  3. It would be possible to get a new key - the code will be stamped on the old one. But they cost £25 or so from Lexus. I agree with you that locking nuts/bolts are a waste of space these days. I had a deal of pain with my daughter's Peugeot 208 earlier this year - she bought it as new but pre-reg. She asked me to look at the brakes when she got an advisory following a service - no key in the place in the tool kit. Pug dealers unable to supply a new key without the code. I drilled out one of the locking bolts (which took an hour or so and several drill bits), then my talented neighbour made a new key in his workshop and we removed the others and replaced them with plain bolts.
  4. That's just because they fit so many vehicles that they haven't specifically listed 2007 IS220D. There are loads of IS models listed from 2010 onwards - wheel nuts haven't changed since launch and they are the same on all models (and indeed on all Lexus AFAIK). You could 'ask seller a question'. They are the correct spec - M12x1.5, 21mm, chrome, flat seat. But no - I haven't used them myself. Haven't you got 4 chrome nuts in the box with the locking nut key? Or has someone chucked the box etc out?
  5. M12x1. 5 See ebay item 172326411693 Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  6. I bought the 10 pack of washers at top right from here: Superior washers of correct composite specification and they'll last me quite a while! There's a specialist for everything!
  7. Yep - annually should be OK, but some people do them more often and it depends on miles and road conditions. Don't leave them longer than a year without a coat of looking at!
  8. Needs checking to see if it has been fixed, but it probably just needs the slider pins freeing and greasing. Could need new pads and discs. Just possibly new calipers. If it's a garage/dealer, get them to fix it before sale. If it's private, factor in some cash - maybe £500 to cover worst case scenario, but actual cost should be in range £0 - £250 depending on who does the work and what is required. And get the rear brakes checked as well - they are more likely to suffer similar problems.
  9. Quite possibly = all the electronics are very sensitive to voltage and if your alternator was not charging the voltage would have been low and possibly varying under varying loads. Get the alternator tested before committing to buying a new one (it might just be something in the wiring) and check the possibility of a rebuild - there are lots of specialist companies offering that - usually vastly cheaper than buying new or exchange.
  10. Mine were and actually they were probably perfectly OK for a good few more miles and years yet!
  11. I finally got around to replacing my spark plugs on Saturday. Mileage 67000 - I said I wouldn't do it until 100K but now that the Denso recommended plugs are Iridium Denso IKBH20TT rather than the original Platinum plugs and are available for £42 something a set I decided to plunge in. I also replaced the surge tank to manifold gaskets (3 off) - I bought them from RockAuto for about £19 including postage. I've watched the video on YouTube but haven't been able to find a workshop manual type guide for this job, so I've put one together so you can print it off and keep it handy whilst doing the job.. It uses the Lexus instructions for removal of the coils (which then gives you access to the plugs), an exploded diagram of the relevant part of the intake system and some notes which might help. You have to remove the air surge tank (incidentally this is not the inlet manifold, as frequently mis-stated, here and elsewhere). Most of the excess time for the job goes on a few frustrating things - the stupid inaccessible bolt on the back of the surge tank, the clip for the main power feed from the battery and a couple of other things. I'm sure that if it weren't for them the job could take an hour, but as it is, allow an afternoon! At least I have the satisfaction of having saved a wedge of money compared with dealer charges and I know the job has been dome properly. Incidentally I wondered whilst doing the job if the surge tank had really been removed only a couple of years ago when the fuel pressure sensor seal was replaced - or was it? I began to wonder if the dealer had just used some sort of sniffer, decided the seal was OK and done nothing. They had the car for a suspiciously short time and did a video of various safety checks too. It just felt as if no-one had been in there for 12 years, not just two years ago. Might be my imagination! IS250 spark plug replacement.pdf
  12. That's not how the IS models are arranged. There's no radiator cap as such - the pressure cap is located on the thermostat housing and is described as the 'Radiator pressure cap'. The header tank has a non-pressure cap. I suspect the OP has a head gasket problem. You don't necessarily get mayonnaise or other signs of oil leakage into the oil. The water can just go one way through a failing gasket - the failure point can act as a one way valve. Relatively small amounts of water don't show up in the exhaust - my MX-5 has water injection and nothing shows in the exhaust! I agree with Terence - you need a pressure check - sooner rather than later.
  13. When you put new pads in the pistons have to be fully retracted into the housings (even with solid discs) . I don't see how there could be room for wider discs. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  14. I would think you have no chance of getting it fixed under warranty. If it's not too bad, sand down the damaged area to get it as smooth as you can (doesn't need to be perfect) then touch it up with matching paint - something like Halfords Wheel Silver, maybe, if your wheels are the original colour, or look in the car paint greys or whatever if they have been refinished in something darker. You might need to experiment a bit to get a good match - perhaps even mix two colours. Be careful not to get paint on the tyre - that looks awful. Then it will hardly show. It won't be your last scuff. Eventually your wheels will blister (if they haven't already) or get altogether too scuffed and then you can think about a proper wheel refurb job. If it is really bad, you could contact a local smart repair operator, but that's relatively expensive and as I said, it won't be the last scuff - wheels with low profile tyres scuff very easily.
  15. They wouldn't be refurbished if they came from Lexus Liverpool - I would think they would only sell new stuff. (Brake factors sell refurbished ones). I bought a pair (note you should always replace brake components both sides at the same time) just over 4 years ago and they were described as modified. Don't get too excited - they look exactly the same as the old ones and they are just as liable to seize the slider pins - mine went sticky after the standard year and I've cleaned and greased the pins annually since fitting. I'm not sure, but it's possible these £79.99 ones are for solid discs (as I have). The vented disc versions are different (wider to accommodate the thicker disc). Has anyone with vented discs paid this 'bargain' price? (not that you wouldn't have paid anything if Lexus had designed the things properly in the first place). (Note for newcomers here - this all refers to rear brakes)