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johnatg last won the day on November 17 2018

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About johnatg

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    GS300h Premier
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  1. The filter is located at the front of the engine, slightly to the right (offside in UK). There should be a little hatch underneath it held by three screws - you shouldn't need to remove the whole undertray - the drain plug should be aft of the undertray. (This info is based on my previous IS250 which uses the 2.5 litre version of the GS450h engine) Note that it is very likely that you will need the special cup wrench to undo the filter cover - these are often done up too tightly (torque setting is 18ft lbs). Don't risk damaging the filter cover by using other means. You can get the cup wrench from eBay - various brands - I have a Laser one. (Cup wrench for Toyota V6 engine)
  2. I just hold the car stationary with my left foot on the brake pedal then release it as I accelerate away. It is the only time I use my left foot on the brake pedal!
  3. I think the Mann one from ECP will be a plain filter, not activated charcoal. It would be fine of course but on balance, if you want to keep the performance spec of the Premier grade climate system with negative ions etc I'd use a charcoal one. Here you go:
  4. Oh - it looks as if GS450h ones are different from GS300h - are they really? Anyway - you might need one like this:
  5. I bought this recently:- £14.63 Fits perfectly - no problems - note that the arrows show airflow direction, which is top to bottom, not 'this way up' as on originals. You might have a word with the dealer in Sheffield - or were you not charged for a filter? Or did they just not look at it? I think it should be done on a major service but not a minor. But change it at least once a year anyway.
  6. I think you would be within the law if you drive to an appointment at a specialist repairer and he then takes the car in to an appointment at an MoT place. The appointment bit is crucial. You could check with your insurer and the police, but of course if they say no. you're stuffed.
  7. You can legally drive the car home or to a repair garage even with a failed MoT as long as it's not a 'dangerous' fault. It might be best to get MoTs done at a very local garage which will turn a blind eye to your driving of with a 'dangerous' fault - I do, and my local didn't worry when I drove home with 'too low' rear brake pads - that's a 'dangerous' fault, even though they were within Lexus spec (> 1.0mm - MoT requires >1.5mm) (That was on my IS250) Actually I don't think they can stop you, but I guess your insurance company would not be too happy, shall we say, if an incident were to occur. Anyway, I think EML illuminated isn't 'dangerous'.
  8. See drawings below. Front: To remove the caliper from the bracket you only need to remove the small bolt at the very end of the slider. The hexagon on the slide pin itself is to hold the slide pin whilst you undo the small bolt. Take care with the rubber dust boots - if yours are original they will be in a fragile state. They can tear easily if you turn a bolt or pin to which they are stuck - make sure they are free before you turn anything - they are just push fits into grooves. If you need to replace boots you can get them from various sources - Brakes International in Rochdale (mail order or in person) is good. The front ones are a bit of a pain to replace as you need to remove the caliper completely from the car and hold it in a vice whilst you hammer in (with a socket over the rubber part) the metal collar into the caliper. The slide pins themselves just pull out of their holes - but they might need a spanner on the hexagons if they are stuck. Clean and grease the slide pins and reassemble. Rear: Make a note of how the springs on the pad retaining pins are arranged. Remove the pins and the pads. Remove the top slide pin. Now the caliper should rotate and push off the other pin which fits into a blind hole. This is the one which causes most trouble - it can be hard to rotate the caliper and even harder to push it off if it's seized. Again take care with the rubber boots. Clean and grease the slide pins and reassemble..
  9. Hmm... I'm afraid that doesn't sound as if they have cleaned and greased the sliders/pins. You need to find a garage familiar with Lexus brakes. I can send a drawing of how the sliders are accessed if it would help your negotiations. It may not be desperately urgent just now but don't leave them too long. Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  10. You don't need to change the rear brake pads at 4.5mm. Standard rear pads start at 10.5mm and the minimum thickness spec is 1mm (but note that the MoT requires at least 1.5mm). So 4.5mm is about 2/3 worn - plenty of miles to go yet!.
  11. Check the calipers for sticking - either the sliders, which need cleaning and greasing regularly or the caliper pistons.
  12. Is the engine management light on? (It must not be on) Is the EGR valve operating correctly and not blocked? (It must be operating correctly) Is there at least 20 litres of fuel in the tank? (there must be at least this amount) The DPF will not regenerate if any of those are not correct. Does it actually need to regenerate at the moment? I suspect nothing will happen if it doesn't.
  13. Have you got the engine running and up to temperature?
  14. That's the one - I thought all SE-L had a touch screen! Learn something new every day! Sent from my PSP7551DUO using Tapatalk
  15. What does the little sticker just above the driver's door catch loop in the door jamb say?