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tameracingdriver

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Posts posted by tameracingdriver

  1. Have a look at this one - I can vouch for it! (I am not connected in any way to the dealer - it's one of my old cars!)

    http://www.tailorsmithautomotiveherts.co.uk/used-cars/lexus-gs-4-3-sport-4dr-auto-navigatorlevin-hemel-hempstead-201316510504127

    That's a really nice looking car, a credit.

    It is. It took me ages to find and I was gutted to see it go. It really was perfect

    It is a lovely car. I should know, I bought it :-) Not a bad upgrade from my IS200 Sport.

    Nice work fella! :)

  2. Disconnect the Battery first and leave the car for ten minutes or so before starting on the job.

    Once you've removed the two covers either side of the steering wheel, you should see a couple of torx head bolts. Unscrew these and carefully pull the airbag forward to remove it. Disconnect wiring plug and place it somewhere safe - do not place it face down.

    It's then simply a case of removing the wiring plug from the slip ring for the cruise control and audio, undo the steering wheel centre nut (but leave it on so it doesn't hit you in the face when you pull it!) and grasp the wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and wiggle it firmly to release it from the column splines.

    Do not strike the steering column with a hammer if the wheel doesn't come off - persist with the wiggling method and it will come off. I've never come across one yet that was firmly stuck on the column!

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  3. If you can get access to a laser thermometer you could see if there is any difference in temperature of the brakes at each corner. If one were hotter, then you may need to free up the caliper. When you worked on the brakes, did all the caliper pistons push back in easily? Did you clean and grease the slide pins?

    What did you clean the TB with? Not sure which engine you have but is there an Idle Control Valve or Throttle Position Sensor?

    I had an Audi A4 that had similar issues and it turned out to be the throttle pedal assembly (throttle position sensor)

  4. It's possible that the lighting rheostat has failed - I've had this happen on a Celica and on a Supra in the past and replacement was the only cure.

    It may be worth finding a known working spare to try.

    As for the ignition barrel light - So you have actually replaced the bulb? Can you check continuity across the joints in the wiring to ascertain that they are sound? It may be worth cutting the previous owner's attempt out and remaking the joint with a soldering iron and heatshrink tube over the repair just to rule it out for your own piece of mind.

    I might have a spare ring with wiring and connector plug but it's from an LS400 so may not fit although I can't see them being too different so will check my EPC for you.

  5. So the GS is gone now :(

    But I now have a 51 plate RX300. I must say that I'm pleased with it despite missing two cylinders and the extra 1.3 litres!

    Managed to get the price right down due to the front calipers being seized slightly. £30 and an hour later - overhauled calipers and perfect brakes!

    No other issues and the car drives smoothly and pulls well :)

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