omeo

Exactly the labour costs are just out of this world. I am in the wrong profession .

Your right mate daylight robbery. My car has 162K miles so even though I can change the bushes on the control arms etc.. and get recon parts I decided to get new parts since I don't think the originals have ever been changed. I managed to get my hands on brand new kyb shock absorbers , some lower control arms and a new caliper which are all overy 100 each rrp price . Lucky for me my mate can source parts similar to the factory price. So all these parts plus labour for 350 pounds. Huge difference compared to the dealership

Lexus advised the n/s/f brake caliper siezed. The o/s/f shock absorber is leaking and both thrust arm bushes split and cracking. They quoted 1437 pounds. I'm going to an independent but is is better to go for oem parts or after market????

Thanks steve I have booked it in with Lexus as I had a free health check. I will mention about the prise bar as the components might only show issues when weight is applied

I have not had any codes read. When I took it to the dealer for a health check about 2 weeks ago I had the noise. The report states that the wheel alignment was fine , wheel bearings were fine, brakes/clutch/transmission op were fine, steering was fine, front and rear suspension fine plus drive shafts. It doesn't include ball joints etc but hopefully the above limits the possibilities? ??

I was driving down the road and decided to do some quick tight left and right turns. When doing this I was getting a quiet loud creaking noise from the front tyre area. Any ideas before I take the car to the mechanic

But that side indicating a caliper issue is not causing the grinding noise. This is strange. I got a free health check available from lexus so ill take the car to them and get it diagnosed

When I was trying to grab the wheel from 3-6 position to check for play there was none. What is strange is I have driven the car straight after checking the wheels for nearly an hour. I have driven on dual carriageway, normal roads. Have braked harshly and slow braking a lot of times to a halt that was originally causing me the noise. Now the noise has completely dissapeard when I brake. Seems to do it though when I take off and slightly turn but even this is not always true. I don't know what I done with the wheel. All I did was spin it, play with the backing plate a bit and rub of the rust on the rotor disc which quiet a bit fell off . If it is not cured why would the noise only come after driving for a while?

I jacked up the vehicle and span the driver side wheel were I'm getting noise. The wheel span so easily with a kind of whirling noise. Don't know if it is the bearing or the brake disc which was touching the disc and hence rubbing on the disc. I jacked up the passenger side and span the wheel. This time it was really difficult to turn but there also was a noise but not a whirling noise. The bearing on this wheel was changed a few months ago. Any ideas

I only get this noise when slowing down and taking off, not while driving . It occurs as well after I have been driving for a while

Took it to the dealer due.to the O2 sensor originally. They carried.out a full health check but didn't mention the bearing.

The brake pads were checked last week and they were 9mm so plenty left on them. Don't know about the bearing, I had the left one replaced in June . What are the symptoms?

Hi When I am for example approaching a traffic light and I slow down gently just when the car is about to stop with my foot on the brake I get a grinding noise. As soon as I start driving off it grinds then dissappears completely. When I'm driving normally there's no grinding. What's strange is if I apply my foot on the brake more forcefully when coming to a stop there's no grinding. I just had my vehicle checked 1.5 weeks ago by the dealer. Front brake pads are 9mm, wheel alignment is fine, suspension is fine, rear brake pads were replaced 5 days ago. I have even replaced the backing plate in April. Any ideas?? Thanks

I got the sensor changed. You were right. No manifold needed to be removed. It was the sensor between the manifolds. Car feels so much better. My mechanic didn't even know what sensor needed to be replaced or even where bank 1 sensor 1 was located lol

My mates mechanic quoted me around 20 pounds to fit depending on how rusty the bolts are on the cover. I'll will need to source the part myself.

Cheers guys thanks for all your help and patience. I'll keep you posted on what happens

Would the lexus technician of checked if replacing the sensor would cause any issues to the other sensors , threads, pipe etc that my mechanic advised?? Im assuming he would of when calculating labour costs etc.... to see if they could make some more money.

Im based in Birmingham. I just spoke to amate. He has a mechanic friend. His going to ask him for a quote and then ill see between him an lexus. Problem for me with any garage is not sure if even they are not sure what they are doing like my mechanic they just my money.

I dont know any decent mechanic i can trust to not mess the sensor replacement up. Bit worried they fix it and mess something else up

Lexus advised it can be replaced . They did me a whole car check but didnt mention anything about thr sensors or pipe threads etc.. they even mentioned my wiper blades so im sure they would of not missed the threads sensors etc... They quoted me 379 for the sensor including labour

I have an appointment with lexus tomorrow so ill see what happens

Cool ill try lexus , at least the work should be guaranteed

Thanks guys ill stick with denso. Ill see what another garage says. Do you think i ahould take it to lexus for their opinion? ?

Ill take it to another mechanic. I'm assuming my mechanic was bit nervous to do it but will see what the other mechanic says

Thanks guys. My mate has a mechanic friend so i will take it to him for a second opinion