bigegg

AC compressor is binding slightly, reducing engine power at low revs.

Not enough to affect at higher revs.???

That's the first place I'd check

Just a guess.

In my experience (not with Lexa) - big engined cars don't like short runs.

Having said that - if you buy a Lexus, you won't regret it.

An "italian tune-up" once a month, and make sure you stick to the 12 month service interval, regardless of the actual mileage (unless you do the 10,000 miles sooner), and the 3-mile journeys won't do any harm.

As to mileage - a couple of years ago I compared a 2.0 petrol omega, and a 3.0 petrol omega (both estates) over 3 months and about 1500 miles each - petrol was in the 125p/l range

The mpg and thus the cost per mile worked out almost exactly the same - 22p/mile

It worked out at +47.6p per journey for the 3.0.

ie, the cost per mile was the same, but it cost 50p extra every time I started the engine, or that each journey was 2 miles longer in the 3.0. If you're only doing 2 mile journeys, then this could double your fuel costs compared to a 2.0 - on a 100 mile journey, you won't notice the difference.

If the lexus is the same, that should give you a ball park figure as to how much your short journeys will cost you.

Oh!

I posted on my own thread, think it's worth mentioning here.

Do a sump drain and refill immediately before doing the radiator drain and refill, otherwise you end up mixing all your nice clean ATF with the old stuff that's already in the sump.

Will go much faster, and use less ATF that way.

not really driven it enough to notice, tbh.

seems a little better - a little smoother.

I have no real reference point tho - I usually drive a 15 y/o 2.5D transit, and the contrast is so large that any small improvements in the lexus pale by comparison.

As an addendum to this thread, which anyone reading later may want to make note of:

In the tutorial, gearbox=transmission

sump=transmission

radiator=cooler

The tutorial is here:

It fails to mention that you should drain the oil pan via the 15mm bolt under the transmission.

Then refill the oil pan.

THEN disconnect coolant line (wearing goggles! cos the rubber hose is tight to the metal pipe, and when it pulls off, it flicks ATF into your eyes :iraqi-info-minister: :iraqi-info-minister: :iraqi-info-minister: )

Why drain sump first?

It holds over 2litres of dirty ATF

The pump takes this oil from the sump/oil pan at the rate of 1l every 10s or so and pumps it around the gearbox, into the cooler then back out into the sump.

You disconnect the connection between the cooler (radiator) and sump so that dirty oil comes out at the end of the cycle.

Effectively, by not draining the sump first, you are mixing the dirty ATF with the clean ATF, and will probably use at least 3 or 4 litres more ATF before it flushes clean.

I DIDN'T do this - cos I'm a numpty :iraqi-info-minister: - and I believe it could be the reason why just changing the fluid didn't fix the problem.

Even though when I just did a sump drain and refill, the problem went away for a day.

ATF purchased - £57 for 10l from a local(ish-10 miles) supplier - not sure if mentioning them is allowed, so I won't.

It's NOT toyota OEM, but it is labelled as Toyota T-IV, WS, and JWS-3309 equivalent.

Been told by a mod that I'm OK to post details, so:

http://www.emotorspares.co.uk/millers-oils-millermatic-atf-sp-iii-137-p.asp

Thats a bugger mate :(

you know what they say:

"When life gives you lemons...

Smash the little yellow !ers to a pulp, and add vodka."

transmission fluid changed.

now a nice clean bright red colour.

contrasts really nicely with the green flashing ect/pwr light :tsktsk: :tsktsk: :tsktsk:

so next job is to drop the oil pan, check the electric connections (can this be done before removing pan?)

then if that doesn't work remove solenoid, attemp to refurbish, or replace it :tsktsk:

just done the transmission fluid change.

The return pipe is the straighter one which runs directly front to rear and is slightly towards the drivers side.

This is the one to disconnect.

The other pipe runs at an angle, and is more on the passenger side.

above directions for standard RHD UK spec '99 GS300

From what I've read, the old fluid comes out of the radiator.

One of the tutorials I read says disconnect both, see which hose the oil comes out of, then reconnect that to the radiator, and oil flows out of the other - otherwise you end up with a radiator (cooler) full of old ATF,

Those are a handy set of ramps

yep.

Bit too big and heavy tho, once I got rid of my unit.

Thinking of welding up a slightly smaller lighter set - for the lexus, rather than a transit

If you follow Colins link, you shouldn't need ramps to drain it

I'm a bit of a chubster - I can't get under the car to get to the cooler pipe

my ramps...

ATF purchased - £57 for 10l from a local(ish-10 miles) supplier - not sure if mentioning them is allowed, so I won't.

It's NOT toyota OEM, but it is labelled as Toyota T-IV, WS, and JWS-3309 equivalent.

Just need a set of car ramps now, cos I sold my last set (for £450!)

OK.

one last time, then I'm going to bed.

Section 7 says "personal data". the background statistics relating to how a premium is calculated is NOT personal data.

Malc's address is personal data.

The amount of claims in that postcode, or within an undisclosed radius of that postcode, and how that relates to any increase or decrease in risk, is NOT personal data.

You might as well ask them why a 1.9 renault laguna costs more to insure than a 4.0 LS400 - that's the insurance co's personal data, not yours.

The insurance company has explained why the premium has increased - "because you live in a higher risk area". He is not, IMO, entitled to the background data, and the insurance company will fight tooth and nail to not release it - I would guess as far as appeals to the House of Lords

The simple fact is, premiums change depending upon postcode - sometimes it increases, sometimes it decreases (did for me a couple of years ago).

As I said at the start of this thread, the only way to make a complaint stick is to generate a fresh quotes from saga, one at the old postcode, one at the new. If the quote at the new postcode doesn't reflect the increase in premium which Malc has been given, then there is grounds to complain.

Nope.

Still a mature student - another year before I finish my law degree.

I intend to specialise in consumer contract law.

The above was as much for your protection as Malc's.

but, whatever...<shrugs>

I'm leaning towards that myself :(

Trouble is, finding £100 before the end of the month is gonna be difficult.

it's VERY unwise to take, or give, (para)legal advice via PM.

At least if the advice is in the open, it can be peer-reviewed, and hopefully you can avoid making a silly, or potentially expensive, error based on what may be incorrect advice.

and the ***********ng thing is back flashing again.
guess I didn't change enough of the fluid.
back to the dealers for another three qts tomorrow

Finally got around to sorting this out today.

Took the drain bolt out from the sump pan, and removed about 3l of what would be best described as resembling

dark coffee with the consistency of a McDs chocolate milkshake.

Put 2l of the T-IV in, which brought the level to between the cold marks on the dipstick.

Went out for a 45 minute drive (about 25 miles) at all speeds from 5mph crawl to 70mph (honestly officer), then re-tested the fluid level at exactly mid-way between the hot marks.

Warning light isn't flashing, gear changes much smoother, and the "mental" button (PWR) works.

Will do the same again next week, and then the week after - that should have replaced over 50% of the old fluid.

So...

problem solved - I hope!

I'm guessing the old fluid had just gummed up the solenoid, and the new oil has cleaned it up just enough to let it work again.

ta very much.

How much damage am I likely to do to the gearbox if I ignore the problem for say the next 200 miles or couple of weeks?

76 should be "shift Solenoid "C" Electrical Malfunction (No. 3 Solenoid Valve)"

where can I find the list of codes?

Tc and E1 (or pins 4 and 13) on under steering wheel plug.

Had a reply on clublexus.com, which says code 76 is no.3 solenoid (or the "usual suspect").

I'm hoping (as per a thread I read somewhere) that it's a loose connection, rather than a replacement needed.

If I*do* need a replacement - where's the best place? breakers?