Fsport

Accelera Ioatas are what small independent dealers put on a car to save cash. i.e. they are the cheapest tyres available for the Rx.

They are rubbish tyres.

Yes many people have put 255 50 20 on their cars but just not on these forums.  Many on the US forums have.

I have 255 55 20 which are even bigger to get better ride comfort.

A lot of people like to stick to OEM size and brands because they want to be safe in their choice.  One thing I will say is that Lexus did not pick the Bridgestone Dueler/Dunlops as OEM tyres for their performance.  They most likely picked them because they offered the cheapest large scale deal for Lexus.

Nearly no car enthusiast would look to buy Bridgestone Duelers/Dunlops for their replacement tyres given the vast better choices available.  Duelers have a wet C rating despite being a summer tyre.  All summer tyres should have an A wet rating.  Only Winters and All Seasons should be allowed a B wet rating given that they have to compromise for snow and ice.

235 55 20 sizes have a terrible selection of tyres.

Many CC2 in 235 55 20 size is for cars.  Not sure if Michelin have recently updated them with the SUV version.

CC2 in 255 50 20 is for SUVs and have stiffer sidewalls.

Yes you can put 235 55 20 on a SUV but just be aware that they were made for cars.

Sorry, yes meant it was 4 mph faster as standard.

My speedo was approx 4mph slow on original wheels and tyres.  Not sure if Lexus do this on purpose.

It is now is accurate to 1mph so the change is tyre size works for me in this instance.

It isn't significantly larger.  Besides, diameter isn't an issue given the massive size of the wheel arch gap on our cars.  It is whether the width will cause rubbing on full lock.  255/55 does not result in any rubbing.

I now get better ride quality, a better fuller looking wheel arch and much better tyres.

All tyres available for the 235 size are average in comparison.

Yes you can easily fit 255/50.

I have recently installed 255/55 tyres on my Gen 4 RX to get better ride confort and better quality tyres. (255/50 is actually a smaller diameter than the standard setup).

No issues at all.

The OEM bridgestone and dunops available on the standard size are awful.  

My insurance is due this week and went from £700 to £2800.

It is an absolute joke.

Many companies are not quoting.

Mine is a Gen 4 2018.  Need to update my profile.

Unsurprisingly, my local dealer Lexus Sidcup has no knowledge of this.  Looks like I will have to email Lexus UK.

How much did you pay?

The deal is misleading.  I read it as £250 for the Canbus Immobiliser on its own.  It is infact still £450 for the Scorpion X Canbus Immobiliser on its own.

Not really a deal if you don't want the tracker.

I had my water pump replaced under the relax warranty after the dealer noticed some leaking during a routine service.  This was 5 months ago and mine is also a 2016 RX.

It is definitely covered under the relax warranty.  The quote to replace was around £1k without warranty (dealer initially assumed I didn't have the relax warranty).

They are using the wiring from the passenger side front LED lights through peeling back the front near side wheel arch lining.

£10k?

No RX400 is worth £8k+.

£8k+ is RX450h money.

I am trying to find a non rusty version with no suspension MOT notes for around £3k/£4k for the tip run, supermarket run and station car parking.

Hi, can anyone recommend a bodyshop in kent (near Sidcup) for a minor bodywork repair to my 2017 RX450h.

Thanks

I will be looking at the Crossclimates 2 as well when my tyres need replacing. 

235 55 20 is not available. 

I will be going for 255 50 20.  These will have an almost identical rolling radius but just be wider tyres (which I think in itself will drive better).

Further to my gearbox thread, I have just bought a Gen 4 RX450H F sport to replace the RX300.

What a huge difference.  Lovely car.

However, just before the gearbox went on my RX300, I filled the car up at the petrol station.   It is now holding a full tank of petrol.

What is the best way to siphon the fuel out before the scrap man comes and picks up the car next week.

Tried the old tube into the refill hole but it doesn't go all the way into the petrol tank.  I assume there is a security feature.  Is the only way via the back seats and after removal of the petrol pump?  Seems a bit of a faff if so.  Are there any other ways  to get the petrol out?

Well after installing the tow bar and taking the car for a long trip to the other side of the country (6 hours drive) the gearbox decided to fail after a steep climb up a hill. 

It was probably a combination of the heavy tow bar, the extensive luggage in the back of the car combined with having to pull the weight up a steep hill.

The gearbox now does not select reverse although can still drive forward.

Am trying to decide whether to buy a used gearbox from a scrap yard and have that installed or just to scrap the car.  The rest of the car is fine.

What are peoples thoughts?  Any idea on how much replacing a gearbox is in labour at independent?  Can everything be done for £1500 ish including price of a used gearbox?

I am expecting that it is uneconomical and I should just scrap the car and move.

Hi All,

Just installed a tow bar and the electrics to a 2004 RX300.

I now just have to somehow connect a red power wire from the tow bar relay box to the Battery.  The instructions do not give any clear details or pics on exactly how to do this.

Does anyone have any ideas.  I have currently routed the wire to the passenger footwell.  I cant seem to see any obvious hole/grommet to feed the wire through into the engine bay.  Anyone know?

Do, I need to even go through to the engine bay? Is there a wire somewhere around the footwell that I can crimp this wire onto?

Spent the whole weekend attaching the bar and connecting all the electrics but get stuck on what should be an easy final step.

Thanks

I have a 2005 RX300.  

About 2 yrs ago  I started to experience pronounced delays in acceleration.  The car would not pull away upon stepping on the accelerator and when it did, it often did so in a jerky movement.  6 months later, this manifested into heavy vibrations and shaking of the entire car when pulling away or accelerating.  Trying to diagnose the issue I found out that the car had been low on gearbox oil.  When I realised and topped it up, it required a full 4 litres of type IV gearbox oil.

The car would have been low on gearbox oil for about 1 year and I am surprised the gearbox did not seized up during that time.  

Whilst the car has significantly improved with the correct amount of gearbox oil, it does still vibrate and shake when driving in certain gears.  The car typically vibrates around the gear 2 or gear 3 range i.e shortly after pulling away and shortly before coming to a stop.

Does anyone else have this issue?

Could the cause be due to one faulty gear (perhaps damage from running lthe car for approx 1 yr on low gearbox oil)?

Should I embark on a full geabox oil change or would this makes this worse given the age of the car and lack of previous gearbox oil changes.

Could the vibrations be due to something else?

1.) An MOT is a check to ensure your car is not dangerous to other road users.  It is not a test to provide you a list with all the problems with your car.  A pass is all that you want even if your shocks are leaking or your car is half broken.

A full service at a dealer or garage is where they should tell you what is wrong with the car.

2.)  You should never accept blindly what a dealer tells you.  They will often exaggerate the need for certain things to meet their monthly targets.

I have had these lights come on for months and then disappear for no reason.  For my case they tended to come on after heavy rain.  Probably water getting into somewhere and messing with the electrics.  Just left it and the lights disappeared for the next 15 months. Recently 2 months ago it returned.  Not sure of the cause.  However it has now disappeared after 1 month of ignoring the lights.

I would personally just ignore it and see if it disappears after months of driving.  It hasn't caused any issues in my case and providing no obvious change to the way the car behaves then just clear the lights for the MOT and live with it at other times.

If not done so already, then spark plugs, cam belt including tensioner and bolt, aux belt, waterpump, coolant, air filter and brake fluid. 

Pollen filter and engine oil every year

Stick with OEM level third party products and you will be ok.

By OEM level I mean brands like Denso, Mahle, Mann etc  not blueprint.

Also some third party products are better.  In some Toyotas for example the Toyota pollen filter is the white type.  I much prefer using the carbon type (grey type) from a third party than a Toyota white type even when the third party product is more expensive than the Toyota version (carbon version is always more expensive than non carbon)

Both filters are extremely easy to change.

I do it myself every year.

Mann filters are good filters.