KenMavor

11 hours ago, lfoggy said:

Thanks Barry but I am not optimistic. New car then. Not ready for full electric yet as I do some long rural journeys. Quite liking the Jaguar or Range Rover plug-in hybrids but they are not great value for money compared to an RX. Probably a new 2021 RX when the insurance pays up. It was insured with Lexus insurance and they are saying it will take a week so not too bad.

Maybe worth having a chat with the insurance company and saying to them......go find me a NX with this spec in the price range.  Really nail down what you want, colour, mileage etc and get them to source it for you.  They should have far better access to the supply thatn you and will probably get a better deal than you could.  Just a thought.  Did that with my wife's last car that got stolen and they came back with a far better car, lower mileage, better nick etc.

Depends what the insurance company will do.

On 2/24/2021 at 10:46 PM, m4rkw said:

Buying privately is more risky than buying from a dealer. A 2015 I'm guessing is going to be a pretty hefty chunk of change. I would suggest getting a pre-purchase inspection and checking all the paperwork very carefully.

This.  Get either one of the main breakdown companies, RAC or AA, to do a full check.  Or ClickMechanics do a good one as well.

You want a comprehensive check with coverage in case anything goes wrong.  Then get a two year extended warranty from Lexus.

33 minutes ago, vvpacc said:

From all that discussion about trims, it did not become clear - is it possible to convert to "normal suspension" or not, and what does it actually take? I am aiming at RX350 from 2010, gonna take a look at one the coming week, but air suspension does not make sense to me. The compressor alone is priced at 1.6K GBP, or at least the price I was quoted with. 

It is possible to convert......have seen a couple of guys do it.....either reported here or on the Facebook page for Lexus UK owners.  Does not seem particularly difficult just time consuming.  Whilst faults are rare on the air suspension they are expensive to fix.  Also people report that the ride is actually harder than on  normal suspension.  Note that the next generation RX450h did not have air suspension on any of the models.

8 hours ago, Cyclone said:

Looking at cars from 2009-12, so SE-I, SE-L and Advance spec. The odd premier spec pops up in the age/price categories I’ve been looking at. 
 

Thanks for your input.

Just to add to your conundrum.........many recommend taking out a 2 year Lexus warranty on an older car.  The car needs to be under 140k miles and not more than 10 years old.  Hence if you want to do this then it's a 2011 year car or younger.  The warranty is very good and many members of the forum can attest to getting a lot of things done under this warranty.  You need to have the car serviced by Lexus to maintain the warranty but using the essential service option it's not that expensive.  The warranty gives you 2 MOTs and 2 years worth of RAC breakdown cover.  For a RX450h the warranty cost is £995 on a 2 for 1 deal.

Worth looking into I would suggest.

Two files from the group message.

10 hours ago, Cyclone said:

Thanks Ken, info appreciated.

 

Are there different specs of leather? The reason I ask is because on some of the lighter colour leather then the condition varies. I know on lighter leather it is more likely to show dirt and wear more, but were there options for different types? I know that on the 2012 model up the seat design / leather changed, was this for the better or no real difference?

Cyclone,

Go join Lexus Owners club UK on Facebook.

Guy had accidentally used a scouring pad on his leather seat and then took it to a leather restorer who made it as good as new.  Pictures are there on the group.  Suggest that should allay any fears about the seats.

1 minute ago, rayaans said:

Which RX450h years are you looking at?

I believe the Premier models have semi-aniline leather which needes more care. The other leather is the same but wear shows more on lighter leather. The RX450h dont have any major issues apart from cosmetic ones as theyre used by families

On the higher grade models the seats can have cooling, as well as heating, so the leather has perforations.  You are correct in that some colours seem to look as though they have worn better.....ie black versus ivory.....there is also a grey interior.  However, the leather can be cleaned and treated....I think someone in here put up some photos after treating his leather seats on a GS450 if I remember correctly.  I also think, just my opinion, that the black leather makes the car rather dark inside.  It's all down to personal choice I guess but the RX450h's are pretty solid cars.  Just make sure it has a good, preferably, full lexus service history including the hybrid Battery health check.  You will pay more direct from Lexus.  I have also found that the cars tend to be looked after by their owners as well as they are looking to keep them for a long time.

13 minutes ago, Cyclone said:

Hi All,

I’m planning to view an RX450H over the next couple of weeks. I’ve owned a couple of RX300’s so whilst I appreciate that’s a different generation, are there any similar and additional issues to watch out for when inspecting / viewing an RX450H. For example water ingress, suspension corrosion, etc. I am aware of the tailgate issue, but are there any other watch outs please?

 

Cheers Jules

Various things I have seen as reported.......rear door intermiittant working, air suspension, sun roof leaks, imbalanced tyre wear....ie shoulder wear, wear in drovers seat.  The usual checks on brake discs and pads.  Suggest there are no gotchas that I have seen.

6 hours ago, Kate2140 said:

Hi all

After struggling with our tailgate on our RX450h not opening (no beeps or lights in the boot either), a diagnostic expert has come to the conclusion that the tailgate motor/activator (the motor in the headlining on the passenger side) needs replacing. Lexus wants over £900 +VAT for the part 😩

We can find loads on ebay for the Mk2 version, but need the Mk3 (2009-2015) version.  Any possible leads we find that a scrap yard may have one have come to nothing and the only one we can find is in Lithuania (long time to post - circa a month, plus all the VAT and custom charges post Brexit).  Does anyone know where I can source a second hand part?

Part number is probably 427110-10648, photo attached

Thanks in advance!

K

Part number is probably 427110-10648, photo attached.

That does not look like a normal Toyota/Lexus part number...usually 5 numbers followed by 5 numbers......

1 hour ago, Tam Templeton said:

Hi all , finally took plunge yesterday and got my totally rusted exhaust removed for a nice shiny stainless one . Centre piece and silencers were rotten due to short journeys and I think the nice temperate weather here in Scotland . 😀. 

S/S for sure is noisier but is acceptable to me . Lifetime guarantee so don't need to worry again for piece of mind 😊

 

 

Did similar 6 months after bought the IS250.  A couple of pieces of work needed done and any Powerflow franchise did them.

18 minutes ago, Herbie said:

It's not exactly the solution Patrick but it may help you get there. I've just sent it to you now.

Herbie,

I think you should charge a tenner for the information ..............:-0

On 2/12/2021 at 6:34 PM, ahmed-abrar said:

Anker is a very reliable brand, didn't know they made this type of device. would like to know how it performs, not totally happy with the performance of my device of choice, not loud  enough

It does very well but as with all things audio it is the source file that is the key area.  If the source file is of bad quality and/or it's recorded level is too low in it;s original state then trying to get a louder sound will undoubtedly lead to lower quality.  It's a pain that these days there are still recordings that are leveled far to low so when you want a thumping bass there is a lot of other noise to deal with.  The Anker is of good quality and using the aux connector gives good transfer of the signal.  I had to fit an inline noise suppressor as the car, IS250, was playing it's own tune.

Just now, KenMavor said:

The Anker receives the signal from the phone and then transmits it through the aux socket to the stereo.  My 250 stereo doesn't have Bluetooth as standard so signal has to go through aux. 

I think what you are suggesting it that the unit you are buying will capture the signal from the phone via Bluetooth and then transmit, on the frequency selected, which the radio will then pick up when tuned into that frequency. Will defo work and any even be better that what I have as there is a lot of interference for which I bought a suppressor.

39 minutes ago, Sundance said:

Thanks for your input Ken, although I guess there must be a difference somewhere seeing as your Anker is described as a 'receiver' and my VicTsing is called a 'transmitter' 🤔.  At least the automatic connection is the same as, like your Anker, the VicTsing also does this and pairs as soon as my phone enters the car.

Maybe a bit more research is required on my part so that next time I might have an extra option ... to go for the invisible rather than the unobtrusive. 😄

The Anker receives the signal from the phone and then transmits it through the aux socket to the stereo.  My 250 stereo doesn't have Bluetooth as standard so signal has to go through aux. 

26 minutes ago, Mr Vlad said:

Glad you've sorted your Bluetooth issue. Have to disagree with your choice of word 'unobtrusive '. Anything visible is not really unobtrusive. But that's my opinion. What I use which is in the cubbyhole under the armrest is 100% unobtrusive and out of sight from prying eyes. No need to remove when exiting my car and plugging back in when I get back in. Enjoy your music streaming 

Agree with this.  Under the armrest is a lighter socket and an aux cable.  I plug my Bluetooth anker into the aux socket and power comes from the lighter socket all out sight in the arm rest thingy.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=anker+bluetooth&qid=1613139515&sr=8-4

This is what I got and with Bluetooth on your phone switched on it automatically connects when you get into the car.

2 hours ago, Greisingel said:

“The RX450h is newer, brighter and a whole order of magnitude better in every way, sort of car. Seating is more comfortable; layout is much better; lighting is better and so on.“ Herbie

This has got me thinking about trading up. I sat in a friend’s one last year and it was a notably more luxurious and refined space. Sure, it’s newer and Lexus ironed out some of the Rx400h creases as expected.  I suppose the air suspension comes in for a bit of flack. There’s always some issue or other whatever you get. I’m on autotrader now taking a gander. Lowest comparable prices show RX450 is £3-4K over the starting £4K RX400 lows. It’s got me thinking. 

...just stay away from the ones I'm looking at.... 🙂

For long journeys the IS250, for people with back problems is not a good idea. Ask my wife. The seats make you sit in the base of your spine rather than her bum as they are quite low slung at the back and do not offer thigh support. The GS models are far better for comfort. Do the rx400h's not work for you?  Tried a 3rd gen GS450h and whilst it was a brilliant car out of your price range. I would look for a GS450H around the 5k mark.  Batteries are easy to replace either completely or individually.  And 100k miles for a Lexus is absolutely nothing. 

1 hour ago, First_Lexus said:

As I said in an earlier post, when I clean the car - so doors open to vacuum - it is always locked again by the time I’ve gone inside and gone back out again. One of my neighbours mentioned it once, thinking it was some sort of witchcraft as there was nobody around...

...so, either my car is unique (unlikely) or - as the OP finds the same thing - there is a setting somewhere that can be amended. I always assumed they all did it, and never gave it a thought until this post, as most keyless entry cars from other manufacturers do the same thing (well, MINI, BMW, and VW definitely do).

Will definitely be an option within the software parameter.......the sw used on a range of cars is identical and depending on what options are built into the car, physically, the SW is either enabled or not.  For example......on a Mazda 3 I had I bought a new steering wheel with cruise on it, checked that the correct sensor was behind the brake pedal, took the car to a Mazda dealer and asked them to enable cruise within the sw.  They said they had never done it before but would try it.  Hey presto.....cruise enabled on a basic spec Mazda 3 for about £120.  Also, different countries have different rules for how things work....like auto locking 10 secs after driving off etc. so maybe the car was set up differently.  Suggest head to a good Lexus dealer and ask them to programme it the way you want it but be prepared for some blank stares from the technicians.

Rockauto have condensers from £37 to £81 so maybe then 3 hours labour to take out and replace with new one then regas.

Labour       say 200

Condenser say 80

Regas         say 70

Total roughly 350  so your price is pretty good I would say.

Couple of things to check.

1.  You are getting a decent make of condenser.  I suspect the £290 figure is a pretty cheap condenser.

2.  Get them to replace any hoses, clips etc., anything that you can whilst the work is getting done.

4 hours ago, Gordon Milne said:

Hi thanks MALC yeah i have owned car for 4 years, it has 43,000 miles it failed MOT a year ago, rear brake pads low, a tyre and front brake disc corroded,

I have changed front and rear brake pads and discs and the tyre but discovered rear brakes were binding due to sticking cables I contacted Lexus Aberdeen

last week but was informed that these cables are discontinued from Lexus, I am now trying to source these cables and that is where I am struggling to establish model etc is it 1994 / 1995 , FW1 ? FW2 ? engine BHP are all things that some ebay sites are looking for, EURO CAR PARTS, and other suppliers in my area cannot source cables

Regards

Gordon

 

Gordon,

Try www.toyodiy.com and/or www.rockauto.com.

Use your VIN in toyodiy to get your exact car registered and then get the part number.  Then head to rockauto and look for your car.  Cross reference the part number.  Lexus Aberdeen are so - so.

43 minutes ago, Tuppence said:

Thanks IS250 NEWBIE

 

I had to bite the  bullet and get a recovery veh here to take it to a garage.  I would not be confident enough to disconnect battery and think you need a garage to read the codes.  Anyhow, my late hubby was automotive engineer, now I'm completely stuffed.   Waiting to hear from garage.  Expecting it to be expensive.

I would be surprised if it is expensive as it did start and run.  Fingers crossed.

19 hours ago, Beamish said:

 

Possibly flooded.

Have a look at the following which I copied from a ten year old post.

 

This morning my IS250 wouldn't start. The engine turned over but it wouldn't catch. This is the first time the car didn't start on the first attempt. I was fairly sure it wasn't a failing battery because the engine turned over quite strongly and the lights were working well and didn't dim.

After trying this a few times over the space of about 15 mins, I gave up, emailed my apologies for the 9am meeting I knew I wouldn't make and called the AA. The big yellow van arrived within about 40 mins.

No sooner was Mr AA out of the van and he asked me if I had moved the car. I said "No", thinking he was asking if I had tried to roll it. He clarified, looking at my narrow-ish driveway and asked "Did you start it up to move it out of the way of someone else". I remembered then that I had moved it briefly the previous afternoon and not used it since. The engine was probably running for all of 15 seconds. He proudly proclaimed "That's it! It's flooded!"

Now, I didn't think cars flooded since the good old days of my mother, an old Fiat and a choke. (The three of them just didn't seem to work well together!)

Apparently, I'm now well-informed, that an engine can flood if it is left running for less than a few minutes. It was a morning of revelations for me.

Anyway, as Mr AA is explaining to me how to remedy the problem, I'm breathing a sigh of relief and hoping he's right, because I had visions of the car sitting on the back of a flatbed truck, on its way to Mr Lexus, with my credit card taped to the bonnet!

The trick to starting the flooded engine, I readily observed, is to depress the accelerator. This tells the car to stop pumping fuel to the cylinders. Smart, but too-smart for me. I'd never have guessed at that bit of counter-intuitive logic. But, it worked. After three cycles of cranking the engine with the accelerator depressed, presumably burning off the excess petrol in the engine, the car started with the accelerator released.

 

Hope this may be of help,

Dec.

 

This is exactly what happened to me.......or maybe that was me.  RAC man said to try and never just start the car to say reverse it out of a parking space as the engine will be sucking petrol from a cold start.  Stopping the engine then leaves a lot of petrol in the system and floods the engine.  RAC man did exactly the same thing to get the car started.

31 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

yeah heat shield. Either fit back on with large washers or needs to be replaced. Even if replaced it would make sense to have large washers to reduce the chances of it breaking away again.

This....^^^^   all cars suffer this. The shield takes a lot of battering, gets hold then cold every time you drive the car.  The areas around where the bolts make contact with the heat shield eventually rot away.  Either fit it back on with big metal washers or buy a new one and fit with the same big metal washers.

3 minutes ago, BMCWP said:

Must be the weather or something as my struts have just failed 😕 so I was also looking at the cheaper option - I've replaced the tailgate struts (and lower chains) on my range rover before and it was a simple enough job of levering off the old ones and clipping in the new ones (one side at a time) and reading above I assume need the ball socket end plug things as well as the struts? I was just going to order the struts themselves until I saw that, and the washers? No bother ordering unless the seller decides Northern Ireland is now an instant £50 surcharge for delivery like the last lot I ordered stuff from 🙄

 

www.rockauto.com.....they will advise the best struts to order for your car and they have a very good warranty and returns process.  Even if they do not have them they will try and source for you as long as you have a part number.

1 minute ago, AlistairB said:

Hi.  Thank you.  The arm seem ok.  Its the spindal is clips onto that's broken.  i can probably live without fixing it, unless i can get parts cheap.

Would imagine that either from a scrappy, or Lexus parts, it's not going to be expensive.  You probably need to find a part number or just go somewhere like www.toyodiy.com and try and fine the part.