BROUWERS

If the module is showing different values, I suspect a wiring fault between it and the instrument binnacle lamps.

From Wikipedia:

"For the Lexus RX 450h, the compression ratio was 12.5:1. For the Lexus GS 450h, the compression ratio was 13.0:1."

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_GR_engine#2GR-FXE

I once downloaded these pictures from an old thread. Hope it helps.

No special tools needed. I only had to buy a puller for the harmonic balancer which I didn't have before.

I'm looking at replacement shocks as well, but after reading reviews for the KYB and Monroe ones, I'm leaning towards OEM. Price is not too bad:

https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-rx/lexus-rx-phase-ii-2004-2008/lexus-rx-2004-2008-steering-suspension/lexus-rx-phase-2-n-s-r-shock-absorber/

It seems all 2nd gen RXs share the same shock absorbers looking at the part numbers.

I will see if I can provide some numbers testing my small solar panel over next weekend.

The OBD port does have a live 12V pin when the key is not in the ignition, so I've been using a solar panel connected to the OBD in the past with good results. As standard, the cigarette lighter sockets are not live when the ignition is off, so dont try and connect a solar panel to one of those.

10 hours ago, welland said:

Crikey, how did you manage that? What sort of roads / conditions / speeds....?

Summer temperatures, no highway driving, max tire pressures, minimal luggage on board, no AC, minimal amount of cold starts, pulse and glide where possible, so basically no realistic conditions at all 🙂 Some fair hills on the way though. Calculated actual fuel economy was 51.74 UK mpg.

I once did well over 100 miles with the fuel light on, but that was on an experimental hypermiling run where I averaged 53.5 mpg (685 miles on one tank). I then managed to get 59.65 litres in there before the pump clicked and turned off 1st time, so in theory I could have gone another 60 miles.

I believe only from the 2007 model year.

Thanks for clearing this up guys. I guess only tech freaks like us want accurate information from our cars 🙂

On my other car, a classic Citroën, I do see the needle pointing at a higher temperature before and while the fan is kicking in. Surely it starts operating only from a certain temperature, let's say 95 degrees. It then quickly lowers while the fan is doing its work.

My point is, how will I ever know my engine is overheating when a temperature increase enough to let the fan run is not registered by the temp gauge.

@Jaystar77@NemesisUK

I let the engine run until the fan kicked in as part of the coolant refill/bleeding procedure after changing the timing belt and water pump. A/C was off.

On the very few occasions my radiator fan came on, I noticed that my temp gauge in the gauge cluster was not showing any higher temperature than during normal driving conditions. For me, this is kind of scary. As we know, the RX400h does not have a warning light for low coolant levels. If the temp gauge doesn't show high coolant temps either, then it has very little use, other than showing when not to stress the engine, because it hasn't yet warmed up properly. Did anyone else notice this?

5 hours ago, Farnham Dave said:

Do you mean you can't set a speed, or once it's set, it then loses the set speed?

 

Can't set a speed. I push the stalk into the SET direction, but it won't hold the speed.

Happens maybe twice per month.

I have the same issue since I swapped my clock spring for a cheap eBay one. It will show CRUISE on the dash, but will not hold the speed.

There's a threaded rod with a nut which take care of the adjustment. Pictures can be found in this thread: https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/86415-afs-sensor-replacementrepair/

Not sure about the calibration process, you'd have to check the Lexus workshop manual for that. Although I'm sure this can be found somewhere on this forum as well.

Look behind the right hand rear wheel or even take it off to have a better look. It connects to the rear stabilizer bar.

Changing the rear 3 plugs really isn't that bad of a job. Most of it is just unbolting things and vice versa. Many will say the coolant lines will have to be disconnected from the throttle body, but I could just put the throttle body aside with the lines still connected.

If you're saying the engine starts up when cold within 10 seconds of turning the key, that's fully normal. The hybrid system requires the catalysts and the coolant to warm up before going into "full hybrid mode". This, on a cold day can take up to 15 minutes of driving. You can read more about the stages of hybrid operation here: http://www.john2211.nl/Hybride_modi.htm

Remember the OP has a RX400h, not an RX450h

Afraid the system won't recognize which key is in the ignition lock.

You would have to use the 2 seat memory preset buttons on the driver's door panel.

6 hours ago, welland said:

He seemed to do an awful lot of tapping.  Is that because some of his taps didn't work, or is it necessary to make all those taps in that sequence? 

It's necessary to do all those taps. Might take a few tries.

4 hours ago, welland said:

That looks clever.  Is he touching something that is invisible in the video,  but really visible to the naked eye? 

The buttons aren't visible. It might take a few tries to get into the menu, but I can confirm it works.

Without a multimeter try the 'secret' menu described in this video. Around the 00:43 mark, the Battery voltage is shown:

https://youtu.be/zLlh5TfbyRQ