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About Jaystar77

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    Advanced Member

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  • Lexus Model
    Gen1 RX300 / Gen2 RX350
  • Year of Lexus
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Interests
    Car Restoration

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  1. Good to hear results Richard - nice work!
  2. Good to hear from someone with clinical experience. That being said the accuracy of Toyota coolant temp sensors has always been more accurate in the lower half of the gauge, but once they reach operating temp it will only raise the needle if it sees a voltage reading that indicates the system is overheating. Just out of interest, which manufacturer was it? My head is tortured daily with VW testplans so you can understand why I drive a Lexus.
  3. Okay lets narrow the band a bit, say 90-104 degrees, any happier? The question wasn't when will the fans kick in, it was when does the temp needle show an overheat situation. Sitting on a driveway with an OBD reader isn't going to answer this unless you disconnect the fans and let it cook a little.
  4. I'm only going off what I've seen on other Toyota's in the past. The temps I mention aren't accurate, merely given to put the point across. Fit an aftermarket temperature sensor and take it to a track day and you will find there is a variation.
  5. It's like owning a waterpark eh? 😁
  6. All in the design. Yes, the instrument cluster needle sits at the mid point (usually regarded as 90 degrees in most vehicles) but in order to save any alarm it does this between say 85 and 114 degrees. The system brings the fan on well below the point at which the needle would move so you don't see any movement when things are operating normally. If it was overheating you will see it rise above the midway point pretty quickly - I had a fanbelt break on my Starlet and as it turns the waterpump I got to experience an overheat firsthand!
  7. Hi John, I'm not a hybrid driver but.. The radiator fan is there to ensure the vehicle doesn't overheat. You should hear it after extended periods in slow traffic, hot days, etc. Certainly if the system is working harder to maintain it's safe operating temperature it could point to an issue so it could be worth investigating. Are you losing any coolant?
  8. That's good to know, I think NI stock is tied to the Irish market rather than the mainland UK stock. Might have to grab some from an English dealer if these used ones aren't up to scratch. With both edges of the A-pillars going like that I can't help but think it's related to the screen replacement. Probably wrong but definitely sounds probable. I have nearly the same spots of rust in the same place on my bonnet. Definitely impact related - stonechips in my case! The edge of the wing looks like the bumper has been rubbing against it. I'll have a look at mine tomorrow just for reference but if the bumper has been moved by anything it would damage that edge and lead to corrosion like that. Is the other side okay? Not sure on how Lexus will look on it from a warranty point of view, rust caused by external factors generally isn't covered. Which is perfectly understandable TBH. Would do no harm to bounce it off them though.
  9. I think it's a case of Lexus just wanting to make things interesting for us - the seam welding around the rear panels is a bit substandard to be totally honest. You really wouldn't expect it to happen, I run a gen1 RX and it's built like a tank in comparison! As you will need to remove the roof bar for access you could grab a fresh set of seals from Lexus (I did this, think they were around a tenner) to fit. Mine were fine but I would rather be looking at them than for them. The end caps pry off and the bars are held on by 2x 12mm bolts at each end. The seals are handy to replace once the bar is out of the way.
  10. Just noticed you mentioned a slight knocking noise too - would you believe I was investigating this as well at the same time as sorting this leak? There's quite a few rubber bushes on the rear hubs, four or five on each side. My noise was caused by excessive movement on two of the DSR hub bushes. Had one replaced with a cheap ebay which quietened it down a bit but there was still movement in another bush. Could probably have just replaced the rest of them with ebay sourced stuff but I threw the head up - ended up replacing the whole assembly with a new genuine Lexus one. Pricey but at least I knew it was sorted once and for all! If you crawl under the car with a pry bar and test all the rubber bushes you can see for movement it will hopefully help track the culprit down.
  11. I had a leak in exactly the same place as that on my 350: Had to take the passenger side roof rail off and find the rear most seam on the roof has the slightest of nicks in it. Whenever the rainwater was rolling off the roof into the 'gutter' it was running right over the pinhole creating my issue. I've attached a few pics in case anyone else encounters the same. I checked the driverside and the same thing has happened there although the leak was nowhere near as bad. It really doesn't look like much but the amount of water that this tiny crack in the seam was letting in was shocking. I applied some seam sealer all along the welded seams that I could find on both sides. A good heavy instant gasket would probably do the same job just make sure everything is dry before application. After sorting this I still have a slight weep from the rear lamp gaskets but that's a side effect of looking for leaks - you always find more! You should strip the boot floor storage out and clear it of water before it starts to smell too much too. Leave it stripped until you are happy the leak is fixed.
  12. Would probably need a few pics of the rust to advise but from your description could the bumper have been bumped and rubbed against the wing? Panel gaps are fairly tight on these wagons so it wouldn't take much to break the paint. Worth confirming if the front screen is genuine too as I've seen windscreen fitters damage paintwork in the past which leads to corrosion around the edges of the screen. If the screen has been removed in the past this might explain it. The rear lamp gaskets are definitely a 'thing'. Mine are letting a little water past and require replacement. Lexus told me they were discontinued so I've managed to source a fresh secondhand set in Japan (and the lights to go with them) but let us know how you get on please.
  13. Jaystar77

    My new RX350

    Same here, have the service book and the Haynes-like manual so if you need any random factoids just shout. When I got mine I pretty much just did everything (fluids and filters) so as I knew where I stood.
  14. Jaystar77

    Alloy Wheel Corrosion

    I've used these guys for refurbishment before, they have a very good explanation of the proper process for anyone interested: https://www.nulukwheels.co.uk/the-process-2/
  15. Jaystar77

    Alloy Wheel Corrosion

    I deal with spider corrosion on diamond cut alloys through work. For anyone that doesn't know the effect is created by painting the rim black then putting it on a lathe and milling the outer surface with a diamond bit which gives you that cool grooved silver finish. To save us all the maintenance required (imagine how much work is involved in polishing every week) the whole rim is then given a clear coat of lacquer to protect it. This layer allows a more lenient cleaning process. If for any reason the clear coat is compromised moisture can creep in below the lacquer and it gives a white, milky spidering effect which generally only gets worse the longer you leave it. Whilst external influences (impacts/environment/handling/lack of maintenance) can cause this, a poorly applied clear coat can also be at work (hence all the warranty claims). Remember that the wheels of a car get possibly the roughest time when you consider what they are subjected to. In my own opinion I don't think these finishes are worth it. A regular silver or gun metal painted coating will weather the same punishment for longer. Anyway, to remedy this sort of corrosion properly the alloy must first be stripped of it's lacquer layer and paint then the wheel surface machined again. As this milling removes material it's worth noting that alloys should only be milled a certain amount before you weaken the overall structure of the rim. It's not surprising the manufacturer has put the onus on the retailer, vehicles should be put right before being sold, they should have allowed for the costs as part of the resale process. I'd certainly expect the seller to have them refurbished for you. Locally I'd be working with around £130 plus vat a wheel so your quote looks in the right ballpark for a proper job. Good luck with getting it sorted 👍