leelacey17

Hi folks,
How do I stop my headlights turning yellow after they have been polished?Also my alloy wheels are a bit kerbed and ratty. There is corrosion on them so full refurb would be costly  I am thinking of fitting some wheel trims to improve their appearance (car is light blue metallic.) Any recommendations or thoughtd?
Thanks in advance:winkiss:

Mesa Red has never been the most popular of colours within the ISF world, it was the lowest selling colour when they were up for sale with only 6 or 7 sold in the UK (I think!?)
Well today is the only day of the year that it will be sunny up here in Scotland so here's of few pictures of what Mesa Red is supposed to look like!
I can imagine most of you will of only seen a Mesa Red ISF in the shade/clouds, I promise they're not maroon!

It did work well Ed, easy to apply and a real shine to it, well impressed. Here's three (not very good) photos from last night, after the Poorboys Black Hole but before waxing:
 

Please excuse my ignorance chaps, but I was under the impression that it wasn't necessary to polish modern cars these days.
As they were coated with a glaze finish.  Although this may be an option which not everyone takes up, due to cost ?
I had this on my previous Civic hybrid, and never polished it.

It will do but maybe won't last as long as using Bilt Hamber polish before it. If you do two coats of double speed wax you will get a few months out of it. Best to top up one coat once a month or so.

It's a very good wax at a great price and you should like the results

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Realistically you might want to do the full treatment a couple of times a year depending on mileage. As long as it's washed correctly over the coming months you could say top up the wax once a month and that should suffice. You can always get a detailing spray to use as a drying aid after each wash.

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Just got a rear one from Lexus Sheffield as well via their eBay shop. It will be going on the car next week

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I got this kit from eBay. It comes with enough bulbs for the whole interior, the boot, and the number plate and puddle lights. It also comes with a prying tool to help you remove the old ones.

Cost is about £25 including shipping and I wasn't charged any import fees.
 

Nice car shame the price is a bit steep. Your probably paying towards the warranty as well. I would have liked the sat nav etc for that price. Looks ok from a distance but the car cleaner in me sees dirty exhaust tips so with a good detail the car would look lovely. I'd also bin the wood trim

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I think that must be parts for the Water pump as they do a fixed price on that or they did last year when I got mine done. Can't remember if it was 3 or 400.

Rear caliper I have on order from eBay as it worked out the cheapest and mines beyond repair

Handle not heard of but your right will probably have to take the door card off.

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Mine was the same when I got it and checked the history with Lexus. I had 31k on the clock and the car was 9 years old but had been serviced up to 80k with everything done as per the schedule. No wonder it still felt like new!

Water pump still went though.

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I'm in the process of trying to get out the lower pin which has seized on one of my rear ones. Got new pins ready but can't get the little $#@€ to move. Mole grips and a propane torch is probably going to be the next option. Has anyone used a torch on them before? And if so was it effective?

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Perhaps I could have put the bit about the noble gas playing no part in HID operation a bit better......the light is of course produced by changes in energy levels in the electrons of the gas through which the arc is struck. It doesn't really matter what gas is used - any gas will give out light when an arc is struck.

[emoji651][emoji651][emoji651][emoji651] Reminded [emoji23][emoji23]

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Thanks for your reply guys as just wanted to use projector bulbs as seem a better option but that just sounds like to much hassle to change. May consider hid kit but not sure yet.. 
Just done all my interior lights with led blue and look awesome in the dark my puddle lights are next. 

Have you got the little bolt out that holds the caliper to the carrier bracket?
If yes take the caliper away from the bracket.  Then see if you can remove the bracket from the car.  With it off the car you should be able to exert more pressure to try and get the pin going round and round and break the rust seal.  Then slowly try and work it out of the bracket.  With it off the car you can try and get WD40 in behind the rubber and down into the recess where the pin attaches to the bracket.
Lot depends whether you need the car as well....if you can get the caliper off and the pin in stuck inside the bracket you could then take the bracket to a local garage and get them to extract the slide pin.  I also gave the hold that the slider pin goes into on the bracket a clean with a wire drill bit.
 
Do you have replacement sliding pins?
 

Looks like a good job to me mate fair play! Those panels are a lot trickier than they look too so that's a good effort.
Yeah the 8dm stuff is off ebay isn't it? Like i said probably fine for pretty flat interior bits but i wouldn't recommend it for large curved panels and to be honest i wouldn't want to use unbranded stuff on your paint. The adhesive isn't generally of the best quality and therefore can lead to leaving large amounts of residue on your paint or maybe even peeling the paint off. That's just my advice i obviously can't say it will for sure because i haven't tested it but i like to stick to the tried and tested top quality stuff to be sure of getting the best and safest results.
But yeah overall they look good mate.

What is actually seized....top or bottom slide pin?  I had one a few weeks ago and drenched it in WD40 etc.  Managed to get it turning and slowly but surely extracted the pin.  If I remember correctly the pin gets terminated in the actual carrier and passes through.
Have you managed to get the small bolt out which holds the caliper onto the carrier bracket?  If not then try holding the longer pin bolt with a pair of pliers or molegrips and then try turning the small bolt head with a spanner or if round bolt head another molegrip.  All you need is to get that sucker out.
Would suggest that the caliper might be OK.....
It's a complete pita.....if you can separate the caliper from the bracket then you can see if the caliper piston moves in freely.
Hope you manage.
 
 

Afternoon all,

Started to do the service on the rear brakes today. Drivers side was a dream just stripped down and greased and put back together without a problem.

The passenger side was !@$##% seized

Help needed. The lower pin is in a right state so I'm assuming that I will need a new caliper and bracket! All I can find on eBay is the calipers without brackets for about £120. I cannot find the life of me find the bracket on its own.

I found a complete assembly for around £240???? That means it's £120 for a bracket?

Has anyone brought replacements and if so where from and how much?

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I replaced the steering wheel on my old Civic Type r a few years back and was simple to do. I looked at getting the original re trimmed from that company but turned out a second hand one was cheaper.

Might be worth a look on how much a replacement is.

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Hi all! Thanks for the comments and the welcomes! 
Yes Lee, patience is definitely key, especially when you are a beginner. But also key is using the right materials. If you are using cheap calendered materials you will make your life a lot harder. For interior bits it shouldn't make a massive difference but using top quality cast vinyl is just lovely compared to cheap calendered stuff. If you ever want any Avery Dennison or 3M vinyl then i am happy to order and post out for you. I know these brands can be hard to get offline from trusted places. I don't get the best rates from suppliers as i am not a big shop but i wouldn't charge any mark-up or anything for you guys. I don't have this facility on my website and i'm not an authorised re-seller or anything, but I am happy to do it now and again for you guys to help you out.
Usuf, the answer is yes you can wrap wheels, technically you can wrap anything, but there are a few issues and to be honest it isn't done very often because its not the best solution. Obviously the wheel is a moving part which will put the vinyl under more stress and is very likely to reduce its capacity to last. But the main issue is wheels are very complex to wrap and because of this will make them very time consuming and therefore not very cost effective to wrap. Also the complexity means that wrapping in one piece is pretty much impossible, therefore with multiple pieces there will be seams which will mean it wouldn't be a completely flush, paint-like finish. For the price you would pay and the finish you would get you are better off getting them powder-coated etc as you will get better results.
If the alloy has a large flat face, and you are happy with only that part being wrapped, then that is very do-able, and obviously less time consuming and therefore more cost effective, but then the whole alloy isn't the one colour, it would only be the face like in the below. Check out the below youtube videos of Christian wrapping alloys. He's got loads of great stuff too if you want to learn some more about wrapping, I've picked up a few tips and tricks from him in the past. I plan to start a Youtube channel later on this year with DIY videos and shop vlogs also.
Thanks
 
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Welcome on board. Unfortunately I did my first go at wrapping last week when I did my interior. I made a few errors but enjoyed doing it. Patience is definitely the word when it comes to wrapping.

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Do all the parts strip down to just the wood components completely? It's just that the chrome surround around the gear selector gate looks very intricate if you had to 'cut in' around it. Very neat looking job and I guess it is 'reversible' if required?
paul m.

Excellent job Lee, looks really good and much better than the wood in my opinion. 
Where did you get the wrap?

That's a very neat job you've done Lee.  Personally I prefer the wood look, but each to his own eh!