I don't intend to and don't really need to. It's just that niggling thing in the back of your head that keeps telling you that something's still wrong!
Not sure if your Techstream explorations are in search of air suspension adjustment, but if they are, here's something borrowed from a sister site which helped me a lot:
This has taken a few weeks to get right, but I think I have it.
What you need:
Techstream 10.whatever is the common one
A cable, which is USB to OBDII (the above come as a set on eBay for under $20)
A laptop (as long as it's a Windows OS, XP or later, it doesn't matter...I run it on 64-bit Win 10 machine, no VM, no dual boot, nothing special)
Some gasoline in the tank
A notepad if you don't want to take notes on the laptop (paper and pencil may be easier, in fact)
Fire up your TS and connect it to your running LS. Double-click Air suspension Live. Give it a while to figure things out...
Eventually, you'll be able to go over on the left side of the screen and select Data List. There's going to be a bunch of stuff in there you don't care about, so at the bottom of this window, see the field with the drop-down arrow, the one to the left of the graph button? Yeah, that one. Hit the drop-down and choose Only Suspension Height.
Now you have only the fields "after height adjustment" and "height adjustment".
The corners are labeled FL for Front Left, RL for Rear Left, FR for Front Right. RR is the only one which looks normal.
Take a freakin' screen-shot of this before you change one damned thing! I didn't, and regret it. I have no idea where I started, but would really like to so I have a better reference. In fact, if a few of y'all could PM me a screen shot of your un-modded height at 'normal' ride height, I'd really appreciate it. I think my first foray into the suspension was lowering one inch, just to see how things may change.
Oh, there's also "Height Offset Max" as a field, but what I did was use that one as a separating field with "After Adjust" above and "Height adjust" below it. I haven't figured out how to put them on the same line, left and right, but I found it's easier to track changes if they're in the same order. Height Offset is how far the car will rise when you push the Height High button. I wish it were more like 2 of travel available, but Ill take what I can get.
Im one of the very few who uses Height High daily, because its easier for my crippled self to get in/out. That 0.8 makes a very noticeable difference. This is even more true since Ive dropped it a bit.
Be aware...changing the left front, or the front left in this case, WILL change the right front and probably the left rear a little. Might even change the right rear if it's a large change.
The first two times I did this, I measured from the floor of my garage to the edge of the wheel well, going through the center of the wheel. This way every corner is measured identically. You'll very likely find if you measure with a yardstick or the like, yours may have two matching corners...if you're lucky. I had none.
In playing with heights, I found that, for freeway travel, because the air suspension lowers at speed, I couldn't dial it in as low as I wanted. Once on the freeway, I'm pretty certain I feel the bump stops and the ride was choppy (though still not at all 'bad'). It's been 25+ years since I owned a lowered vehicle, and even then I did bump stop trimming so as to have as much travel as I could, so I'm a little rusty on what feel is what.
This is where I'll save y'all a ton of time. A ton of it.
Now, instead of measuring every corner every time you adjust one, use the TS to bleed all the air out of each spring. Select Active Test, and a new window will appear. Double-click one corner of the car, let's say RL, and you'll see yet another, smaller window appear at the bottom-right. It'll say, for example, RL wheelup/down (S307-24). There will be "OFF" and a left and right 'button'. Pressing and holding those buttons either releases air, the left one, while the other adds air, the right one. When the solenoids or compressor are doing something, the OFF becomes ON.
In the main screen behind where the button is, you'll see the data readout. Choose the left or "down" arrow and watch the real-time data stream. See how it's dropping? -0.3, -0.7, -1.3...eventually you should get to around -1.6. Might be -1.9...every car should be different, but just a little.
Get out and just look at where that left rear tire is sitting in the wheel well. Awwwwwww, yeah, buddy!
Repeat letting air out of the springs until your numbers on the TS stop dropping. You should see the front has much more travel than the rear...like an inch or more, more. I think this is why some people, including me, see the LS460 and think it looks low in the rear. It's because the front rides a little higher.
After you lower every corner, go around them, again, and press the down button for 15 seconds and see if you get any closer to the ground via the TSs data readout. Might be only a couple tenths of an inch, or a few MM, but you need to have everything bottomed-out for this to work.
Just to have it, Id go around an measure the height at every corner. I found, when bottomed-out, there was still a variance, which is important, or youll never finish.
Here are the actual measurements on my 2008 L (attached picture).
Please note, even with seemingly no air in any springI went corner-to-corner, around the car, twice, and held the bleed arrow for 30 seconds on each corner, just in case, but nothing happened after the first time I went around it. Its as if air can move around a little in this system. Not much, a couple tenths of an inch in height here and there, but it all adds up.
If you look at current normal, thats normal ride height after me playing with it a little. You can see, I managed to get it mostly level, though the rear behaves strangely when changing pressure (hence, height). Sometimes youll get a huge change in the RR when youre working on the LR. Small changes in any other ones are to be expected, but the large swings are frustrating to work around.
We, however, are interested in the bottomed-out number. In this case, about 25.75, with two outliers. We can deal with them, later, if need be.
As she sits, my car has 2 of compression suspension travel before she hits the bump-stops. I learned this is about 1/2 too little for 70 MPH (posted) freeways here in Fort Worth, Texas. I went, after my first adjustment last week, from about a 1-1.5 drop to an even 2, and that was about ¼ too much, maybe the full ½.
So today, I went out to my car, laptop under my arm, and what I did this time was re-bottom it out, then from there, did some minor maths to bring the whole vehicle up 2.25 from as low as it goes. I guess I cant see 3/8 when eyeballing the tire-to-fender clearance, cause they all look to be the same distance. I also tweaked the front height to be more in-line with what the rear looks like, because to my eyes, every LS460looks like it has a couple of bags of concrete in the trunk.
Back to getting it mobile
Lean your drivers seat back, back, get in, put the laptop on your lap, engine running, and make quick notes about how much air to put back into each corner so theyre all at about 28-28.25.
At this point, in Techstream, choose Active Test again, but this time add air and watch the numbers on Height Adjust change. What youre shooting for is X added to the bottomed-out number.
So, if you want 3 of travel because your roads suck, on my car, Id have to put air into the LR spring until it read about 1.3 higher than it is, now.
When adding or removing air, I suggest you stop a couple-few tenths of an inch from what you want the final reading to be, until youre on the last spring, because changing the pressure to any of them lessens the load on the rest, so the whole car moves a bit.
I may add to or change this, depending on what I find or remember.