Razor61

I spoke too soon, snow this morning and the end of the drive is still 'dug up' so took the IS250 to work. -2 with snow on the car and DAB didn't work. Drove to work, switched off, switched on (didn't start the car) and DAB working. I really did think the issue was solved but sadly not.
Back to the drawing board, if I decide to do something about it.
Thanks for your comments.
I'll check the Battery voltage and check the voltage across the Battery when running, maybe the alternator is showing signs of dying, my instinct tells me it isn't but it is a possibility, as Vlad says.
I don't drive it daily but I will check out the alternator, if I had a scope I could check the rectification is working ok and there is not too much DC ripple. Maybe the running voltage will give me a clue though.

I have had the IS250 for 3 years now, it was my car for the first 12 months then the Mrs car after that.
Ever since we had had the car the DAB radio bit did not work first thing in the morning when it was very cold, after driving the car for a few miles - stop - switch off - start again and the DAB radio worked ok.
Spoke to Lexus and they have never heard of the issue and said it would be difficult to diagnose which I fully understand so never had it checked out by them and didn't start looking myself.
FM/AM and CD still worked along with everything else and it only happened when the weather was just above freezing by a few degrees with a frost or below freezing. So the vast majority of the year it wasn't an issue.
The issue has got worse recently though and happening at higher temps 4 or 5 degrees.
However, on New Years Eve the car was struggling to turn over/start but it did just start, new starter Battery required and planned to get one from Lexus on 2nd Jan.
New Years day it would not start at all, lights on etc but wouldn't turn over so Battery ordered from Lexus on 2nd Jan and had to wait until the next day to get the Battery (Wednesday). Battery collected from Lexus and fitted it that day, all good and car starts no problem.
Why am I relating this story of replacing the starter Battery you may think, well over the weekend the weather was just above freezing and today below freezing at -3 degrees.
Saturday I started the car in the morning when it was around 1 degree and a thick frost, hey presto the DAB radio worked straight away and I was very surprised. Maybe it hadn't been cold enough for the issue to happen I thought.
This morning I needed to drive the IS250 to work, pavement has been dug up at the end of the drive so can't take the LS400.
It was -3 degrees and the DAB radio worked straightaway again, this time I was very very very surprised. I guess changing the starter Battery for a new one has solved the issue.
Maybe the Battery has not been 100% since I bought the car, has been a bit weak and very cold weather made it worse (as normal for a dodgy battery) causing the DAB issue in some way. Can't see how or why though but with auto electronics nothing surprises me.
Changing the Battery itself, so in effect a 'reset', wasn't the fix because quite a while ago, maybe 2 years, the Mrs managed to leave the headlights on and lock the car somehow and flattened the Battery. Car was beeping like mad at her apparently but the beeps were ignored and the car locked somehow with the lights on. Battery was removed and charged up by me so the car had a 'reset' then.

2 hours ago, hockeyedwards said:

I hate c-clips with a passion.

Well done on your investigation, diagnostic and repair 🙂

Thanks and yes c-clips are a pain. I’ll buy another O ring, c-clip and fit them, it’s been in and out too many times. What I’ll do with it then I don’t know, maybe put it on Facebook or eBay or keep it as a spare just in case. It must be worth a few quid to someone.

1 hour ago, Malc1 said:

Well done 👍 

Malc 

Thanks, I was a bit miffed to be honest but you live and learn.

As said I’ve had a look at the rebuilt pump and I made a mistake🤨😠
The flow control seat/plunger thing wasn’t secured by the Circlip correctly, Circlip wasn’t in the internal groove correctly to hold the plunger where it should be. I noticed the end of the plunger wasn’t flush with the pump body and was sticking out 2 or 3mm. As soon as I touched the circlip it sprung out and went flying, found it at the other side of the garage though. Pushed the plunger in to where it should be and installed the circlip correctly. I probably installed it correctly the first time but then removed it again because I forgot to install the spring and didn’t install it correctly the second time while cursing to myself that I forgot the spring the first time.
I did check this part for leaks for the first week or so and nothing was leaking, I guess that after 5 weeks and hundreds of miles the plunger thing worked it’s way out to a point where the O ring was not where it should be to seal and fluid leaked past. The air valve wasn’t leaking, it was fluid running down from the flow control thing at the top.
I was going to fit the new pump anyway but was going to do it when sorting out the steering rack, this brought the job forward.
I think I was lucky that the plunger didn’t pop out completely and then ‘catastrophic steering failure’……………..
 

2 hours ago, morganthomas757 said:

I’ve got a few other jobs to do on it, so I’ll do a good inspection. Seeing as I’ve not gone that deep into the engine bay before, would the power steering leak be obvious in your opinion?

If you remove the large air intake across the front you can see the pump and where the reservoir fits to the pump. You may see the leak. Better to check all areas so the under tray needs to come off and look from underneath for signs of leaking. On your car you may be able to remove the reservoir and bracket without removing the pump.

Today I fitted the new steering pump I bought also new air control valve, hose and clips.
No leaks for 5 weeks and approx 500 miles after the pump rebuild so thought I was ok……….then Thursday morning the steering pump made a bad noise. Left the car at home and drove the IS250 to work. Thursday evening checked the fluid and it was very low, refilled/topped up and noise gone but there was some steering fluid on the drive but not a lot. I checked the fluid level on Friday morning and all good so drove the car to work and planned to fit new pump on Saturday.
This morning when I started the job there was a lot more steering fluid on the drive so it had got a lot worse and when the under tray was removed it wasn’t exactly clean.
I did rebuild the pump as described in this post but after looking at it on the car it had sprung a leak on the flow control O ring. Also the air control valve itself was leaking, not where it fits to the pump. Pump body itself was not leaking though where it was leaking before.
When rebuilding the pump I forgot to install the flow control valve and spring so had to remove the plug thing, fit the bits and refit, maybe the O ring was damaged doing this again or the pump had corrosion and didn’t seal correctly. I’ll have a look at the old pump tomorrow and ‘investigate’

8 hours ago, morganthomas757 said:

or if it was caused by the famous power steering pump leak.

I would say it’s quite likely to be honest on a 96 LS400, maybe not the pump itself but the reservoir O ring leaking. I’ve fitted a new steering pump on my 98 LS400 today, long story and I’ve done a post/topic about pump and rack leak but not updated it.

2 hours ago, hockeyedwards said:

If it makes you feel any better, when I did mine, I used Comma PSF, the way I gauged whether it was correct or not, was that it was red... 🤷‍♂️😂

The stuff I got is red and I went to the Lexus dealer at lunchtime and asked them. They said it was the right stuff so that puts my mind at rest.

I recently rebuilt my power steering pump and used the Toyota fluid shown below, can anyone confirm that this is the correct fluid or is it ok to use?
It's Dextron III - automatic transmission and power steering fluid - part number 08886-80506
It was on offer for £7 a litre at LPD so bought a few bottles - link to LPD    https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-dextron-iii-oil-1-litre/
Since then I saw this power steering fluid on LPD and it's £46 per litre so not sure if I've bought the right stuff - https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-power-steering-fluid-1-litre/

I've not heard of a car 'direct drive' AC Compressor but maybe someone knows about this and can enlighten me.
Direct drive and belt drive types for air compressors for workshop use etc...................yes but not direct drive on a car.
I'm not an expert but afaik direct drive is where the 'motor' is connected direct to the compressor and belt drive is the where the 'motor' drives the compressor using/via a belt ( same as a car )

On 6/25/2023 at 1:57 PM, MAN842 said:

But after research, I find out that the LS430 AC Compressor does not have a magnetic clutch; it is a direct drive type.

Where did you get the info that it's a direct drive compressor and doesn't have a clutch? Just curious because from what I can see it does have a magnetic clutch and isn't massively different to the LS400. From looking on Amayama and RockAuto there is a magnet clutch assy on the front which looks the same as the LS400, which definitely does have a magnetic clutch.
My previous LS400 had an AC issue and it was the clutch on the compressor so bought a Denso one from RockAuto, ordered Friday lunchtime and it was delivered Monday afternoon!!
They are listed on RockAuto for your car, Denso 4710574 - £470 including carriage and duty, and it looks like it has a clutch assy to me.
You should be able to check yourself, just have a look at the compressor and if it has a clutch assy it will look like the pic of the one listed on RockAuto and Amayama.

RockAuto link:         More Information for DENSO 4711574 (rockauto.com)
EPC link:        Heating & air conditioning - compressor for Lexus LS430 UCF30R - Auto parts (epc-data.com)





 

There is a nice Blue 2006 LS430 for sale on Autotrader for £9499, this car was on Facebook a while ago and the owner said it was coming up for sale soon but no price specified.
I was interested and it's now for sale on Autotrader with a price, £9499 though..........................too expensive for me.
This car was featured on YouTube, 'Jay Emm on cars' channel - 'Can You Get Luxury, Reliability AND A V8 for £5000? With a Lexus LS430, Maybe...' and link is below if anyone is interested in watching it.

AT advert

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202401015163750?advertising-location=at_cars&atmobcid=soc5&fromsra&make=Lexus&model=LS 430&sort=relevance

YouTube video

https://youtu.be/dRDwTSa4Ec8?si=TJ8_SL5mrXovqdes

Another interesting Car Care Nut video, mainly about how expensive a particular shock absorber is but the bit that interested me most was about KYB's own range of shocks compared to Lexus/Toyota shocks made by KYB.
Made by KYB to Toyota/Lexus specification, KYB's own range are different so when buying KYB for a Toyota/Lexus model the shocks are different.
KYB made to Toyota/Lexus specification are better quality and different, I can confirm that because I went for KYB's own range on my LS400 (for cost reasons) and ended up swopping them out for Lexus OE shocks/struts.


https://youtu.be/6E-f66cgUA0?si=PqW2dCJ8r8-SSujB

Just some more info about the steering pump, I thought the pump itself was the same on the 94-97 and 97-2000 with only the reservoir bracket different but after watching the video below it seems the rear bracket mounting is different as well.
 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysvFhViFtqo

18 hours ago, Malc1 said:

have no idea WHY just happy it’s happened before and like all good Ls400s experience some self-healing

Sounds like the ignition switch caused it, few posts about it on here, wiggling the ignition key or switching off and on again resolves it.

Just thinking that if anyone needs their pump rebuilt I’d be happy to help and do the job, if you trust me to do it, and if anyone needs or would like their power steering fluid flushed and new fluid I’d be happy to do it as well.
After all the work on mine I have a ‘method’ for doing both without any drama😉
I’m thinking about rebuilding the steering rack myself, I have a 97 steering rack to practice on. It may be ok on my car but the solenoid on the pressure control valve assembly is different, checked this morning after I checked the pump for leaks again (it’s nice and dry). Then cleaned the undertray to remove the bits of steering fluid grime and re fitted.

 

On 12/13/2023 at 10:42 AM, Newbie777 said:

just need to change the oil once a year. 

There's much debate about how often to change the oil and filter.
I change the oil and filter every 6 months on my LS400 and IS250 or after 5k miles, whichever comes first but I don't do 5k miles in either car so it's every 6 months.

3 hours ago, Malc1 said:

Well done 

Expert for your next one in about 200k miles 👏

Malc 

Thanks, it was interesting to take the pump apart and you can then see where and how the pump could leak. No leak is good but I think the worse place to leak is the O ring on the rear which is directly above the rear of the alternator were the electronic bits are.
The reservoir O ring wasn’t leaking on mine, I thought it was but it wasn’t.
Just a ‘theory’ of mine but I suspect the earlier type with the reservoir directly on the pump with little or no support is more likely to leak at that O ring due to the weight of the reservoir, moving around and wearing or dislodging the O ring somehow, it just gives way and then a lot of fluid dumps itself on the alternator. The later type maybe has a thicker stronger bracket plus the reservoir is remote to the pump connected with a hose so doesn’t have the weight on it. Just a theory though.

Regarding rebuilding the pump and the O rings kit which may be useful to someone doing the same job.
The gasket kit part# 04446-30173 contains everything you need to replace all the O rings, oil seal, IAC (idle Air Control) valve seat, circlip/snap rings etc.
Bearing is separate - part# 90363-17017 and it's up to you if you replace it or not. I took the view that I was doing everything else so replaced the bearing as well. In hindsight I would have left the original in because there was nothing wrong with it and the little snap ring on the pump shaft is a little #### to get on.
Most of it is obvious which O rings go where by comparing the size and thickness of the O ring removed compared to the new O ring.
There was one O ring I couldn't figure out where it was in the pump to begin with and it wasn't mentioned in the guides on lexls.com or Planet Soarer that I could see, it's the O ring with the red arrow in the Diagram below.
This O ring goes inside the recess on the Side Front Plate which faces the front of the pump and is difficult to see because the Side Front Plate is black in colour, even though I cleaned everything. I prodded in the recess on the Side Front Plate with a pick to find anything rubber and found it, using the sharp point of a craft type knife thin blade I got it out being very careful. This means that there are 2 x O rings on the Side Front Plate so more force is needed to press the Side Front Plate into the pump housing.
Removing the O rings from the Side plates needs to done very carefully with a craft type knife thin blade, I gently pressed it onto the O ring at an angle across the O ring and gap and then 'flicked' out the O ring once it was cut through enough.
The gasket kit O rings for the side plates and rear bracket are packaged separately, one pack with the 2 x side plate O rings (Green arrow in the diagram) and one pack with the Rear Bracket O ring (Blue arrow in the diagram)
The Pressure Port Union and Spring Seat O rings are similar, iirc the Pressure Port Union O ring is the thinner one.

Assembly, all done carefully and liberal amounts of fluid:

I installed the 2 x new O rings onto the Side Front Plate
Refitted the long guide pin
Refitted the Side Front Plate with the new O rings fitted, pressed it in by hand a bit to level/line it up.
Refitted the short guide pin
Refitted the 'Ring, Cam' without the rotor and vanes (I chose to do this but the rotor and vanes can be fitted at this point)
Refitted the rear side plate WITHOUT the O ring for easy removal
Refitted the rear wave washer
Refitted the rear bracket WITHOUT the O ring for easy removal
Gradually tightened the rear bracket down with 2 opposite side bolts which pressed the Side Front Plate into the pump housing
Removed the rear bracket, rear wave washer, rear side plate and checked that the Side Front Plate was pressed in ok.
Installed the Rotor
Installed the vane 'plates', rounded edge to the outside
Installed the rear side plate with new O ring
Installed the rear wave washer 
Refitted the rear bracket with new O ring
Torqued bolts to 39nm
Refitted the rest of the stuff and O rings.

I hope that makes sense and maybe helps someone else doing this job and this is a link below for a video where a guy called Arnold rebuilds his power steering pump on an LS400, he didn't use the gasket kit but is a useful video nonetheless plus there are more videos on what he has done to his early LS400.

https://youtu.be/JeB8aVtuMLM?si=HCruKqEMEcQmgq7q

I sort of enjoyed rebuilding the pump myself and didn't want to fail with it after all the pain of getting the pump out in the first place but, again in hindsight, I would have bought the gasket kit and bearing then took it to the pump specialist to do the rebuild or found an engineering/mechanic shop to help me to do it. I was a bit 'bl00dy minded' about it to be honest and didn't want to seek any help.

I found the latest YouTube video from the Car Care Nut (link below) on alternators very interesting, especially the bit about when a Diode in the alternator fails and can cause havoc with a cars electronics and modules.
Makes perfect sense to me how it can cause electrical/electronic issues and something I have never thought about.
I knew the general theory of how the alternator works from my electronics days, generating AC - rectifying to DC and smoothing etc, but the 'way' it does it with 3 phases and how the voltage output is controlled was interesting.
Maybe some of the strange electrical/electronic issues owners have is down to a faulty alternator in some way.

https://youtu.be/fFG7eLAY4m8?si=QZAoRDK6y4Lm52Dv
 

The rebuilt pump is in the car and working fine, there was a very small leak from the 'power up steering valve' thing but I nipped it up more and no more leak.
Before I put the drive belt on and started the car, I flushed the old fluid out pretty well and it's all nice and 'red' now.
The way I flushed it was similar to the methods documented elsewhere but I didn't start and stop the car and run the pump. I just turned the steering lock to lock and flushed out the old fluid. I thought I'd try doing it without starting and shutting off the car and risk fluid spurting everywhere. I'm happy with the result and it took just over a litre of fluid on my car but the reservoir and pump were empty and clean so I'd guess 2 - 4 litres to flush another car with manky fluid. The fluid that came out was very dark and definitely not red.

I did order a new pump from Amayama when I was struggling to get the bearing out and it arrived yesterday. For info it came with the return tube/bracket assembly fitted, I thought that was separate, so all that's needed is to fit the new 'power up steering valve' thing I have.
The opening for the 'power up steering valve' thing is blanked off with a bolt so I may decide to do away with it. Not sure if it's 'sealed' with the bolt or it's just for transit but if was just for transit it would be a plastic bung.
I still have the slight steering rack to sort so the plan is to keep the rebuilt pump in the car until spring/summer when the weather is better, take the rack out, send the rack for a rebuild, install the rebuilt rack and fit the new pump.

I thought I was well and truly 'shafted' when I couldn't get the bearing out😄
The leak on the pump wasn't really bad, this job started as 'I'll order the bits, rebuild the pump, all will be good and is a straightforward job' but of course things don't work out that way.
Once you notice something leaking, however slight, it has to be fixed, especially the pump above the alternator.

Power steering pump is disassembled, struggled to get the bearing and shaft out with a slide hammer so I fabricated a puller with angled steel and some home made shims.
Drilled and tapped a hole in the middle to screw on the shaft and fixed into place with the shaft nut, measured and drilled/tapped 2 more holes for 2 bolts with a pointed end to line up with the shims. Gradually wound down the 2 x pointed bolts one at a time and I heard the 'pop' when the bearing released. kept going then rearranged the shims and added 2 x more to pull the bearing and shaft out completely (the alignment of the bolts wasn't perfect). I hope that makes sense and a pic of home made 'puller' is below (before I realigned the shims and added 2 more)
Also a picture of all the components, I still need to tap out the front oil seal.
Over the weekend I'll rebuild the pump and fit it back into the car and reassemble everything.

@Steve (steve2006), I managed the job in the end. It was really bugging me that I couldn't get the bearing and shaft out myself so had another go at it last night.

18 hours ago, SH20 said:

No listing for mats, boot liner, cargo net so will need to go via a dealer.   Don't want to have to travel 150 miles back to the dealer who sold me the plan who will give the discount. 

If what you want isn't listed on the web site you can do a parts enquiry for what you want and LPD will reply back with a quote. If your happy with it proceed with it and how to pay instructions will be sent to you.