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Razor61 last won the day on October 14

Razor61 had the most liked content!

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About Razor61

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    Lexus Enthusiast

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  1. Thank you, that's what I suspected. In any case the wheels are in good condition so probably worth buying.
  2. I've seen some IS200 17 inch alloy wheels for sale which are in good condition but they are a gun metal colour and have the Lexus logo on them, pic below. Does anyone know if these wheels are/were a genuine colour/option with the Lexus logo or do you think they have been refurbed?
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154154276292 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164461662977
  4. Probably not, which if true is disappointing as I’ve been very happy with my local Lexus dealer with work on the LS400.
  5. It depends where it is of course but I’d hazard a guess at the bottom of the rear arches and maybe the rear subframe🤔 it is repairable though if not too bad. I’ve recently bought an IS200 otherwise I may have had a punt on it. The timing belt and water pump would cost £500 (that’s what it cost me at Lexus last year) plus anything else that would need doing on the running gear and the cost starts to mount if you can’t do stuff yourself. As a side note I got a quote from Lexus to replace the timing belt and water pump on the IS200 I bought as it needs doing, £660 plus another £160 for the tensioner and pulley. I expected £500 ish so I’ve ordered the bits from Amayama and will do it myself. Water pump, tensioner, idler, camshaft bolt kit, front and rear arb bushes as well from Amayama and the timing belt from Lexus. All in £400 I reckon.
  6. I hadn't looked at the MOT history, usually it's the first thing I do, and does look a bit iffy. Advisories for last MOT don't bode well, maybe not such a good price then..............
  7. There is nice looking LS400 for sale on eBay and a good price considering what some of them are going for now. 121K and all keys present. https://ebay.us/Rhckn7
  8. So do I, he did a 'proper' job on the sills and the rear end. It was interesting to watch how it all came together. Obviously it cost a bit, around £2k iirc, but not sure if that was just for the bodywork or if that included the cylinder head replacement as well (there are a couple of other videos about this for the same car) I think the car came in for the bodywork but before it arrived the timing belt moved a tooth or 2.
  9. Had a look at the front brakes today as they were pulling to the right when braking from a high speed. Up to 50 ish you wouldn’t notice but at 80 you do notice. As I suspected the front left calliper was the problem and one of the pistons wasn’t working correctly, released it so it moves better but I think new callipers are needed or a rebuild. Checked the drivers side as well and it's fine but both will be replaced if it still pulls to the right.
  10. I did the same thing and iirc couldn't find the ETCS fuse either. 20amp EFI 1, 10amp EFI 2 sounds about right when I did it.
  11. That is exactly what I experienced but you describe it better I think, the car shouldn't be driving forward or speeding up by itself without you pressing the accelerator. I didn't think I had an issue with the temp sensor, it was a case of 'I'll give it a go and see what happens' based on the info I found. The biggest thing that convinced me to replace the temp sensor was the comment below. In his case the sensor was knackered but didn't throw up any faults, in other cases the sensor was working but not giving the right signal to the ECU to a greater or lesser degree. I'm not saying changing the sensor is a magic cure by any means. "After studying ECU theory, I found out the Coolant Tempurature Sensor is the "MAIN SENSOR" for the computer. This sensor has more control over the computer than any other sensor. To make a long story short, my COOLANT SENSOR was telling the computer it was -20 degrees farenheit(thats minus 20 degrees) and no check engine light. Cost of new sensor was 50 dollars. I now get 23 miles to the gallon higway with a light foot. I now save 650 dollars a year in gas driving 12000 miles a year and I can feel the 250 horsepower when I open it up. If you have an old LS400...CHANGE THIS SENSOR!!"
  12. My car idles at 600 rpm with AC off and around 700 rpm with the AC on and fluctuates slightly around that depending if the clutch is engaged or not. So 100 rpm (ish) difference which fits in with the 'standard'. I thought I'd seen an idling standard table in the workshop manual for 'AC off' and 'AC on' but I've looked again and can't find what I thought I'd seen. But I did find the stuff below. It seems with the AC 'on' 800 rpm in neutral should be the highest. If it's significantly above 800 rpm then it's not in 'standard' and you will get issues like I had and Rich has, would anyone agree with that? My car did peak at 1100 - 1200 rpm periodically but not all the time after I fixed the AC. All fine and dandy now though. Idle 650 +/- 50 with AC off, as mentioned above. Then this in the aircon section, 900 rpm idle seems high to me (does say approx. 900) but I'm not a mechanic, just a humble 'diy mechanic' jocky😁