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Razor61 last won the day on April 21

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About Razor61

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  1. So took the plunge and fitted the 89661-50351 updated ECM/ECU today, took an hour to do with glove box removal, swop ecu, re connect battery, test it works, refit glove box and everything is fine. Car started and took it for a short run to check everything works. If anyone has a duff ecu and is struggling to find the exact one then an updated one may be the answer, Amayama was correct with an alternative one for my car but you can double check with Lexus UK to be sure as I did.
  2. Swopped out the ECM/ECU on my 96 LS400 for an updated version. Nothing wrong with the capacitors on the existing one that I could see but I found a later revision ECM/ECU which Lexus UK confirmed was correct for my car. Will see this week if everything works ok but it’s seems ok, starts and runs so the updated ECU/ECM works. The original will have the capacitors changed etc and then I’ll decide what to do with it.
  3. I recently replaced the ac compressor on my car. Once the old one was off the car and I could have a good look at it, it was the magnetic clutch that had failed and the compressor itself looked fine. The ‘Hub Assy’ at the front had come apart, clutch plate had detached so when the clutch engaged it didn’t drive the compressor, car didn’t detect the compressor rotating so then the flashing ac light. I was advised to get a new complete compressor with clutch assy which I did, I said I would fit it myself after a de gas and then re gassed etc, what’s involved and what I did is in the post below. As far as cost, a new compressor from the UK is approx £550 iirc, when I looked there were none in stock in the UK. I got mine from RockAuto in the states and for the new compressor, drier kit and a seal kit it was approx £280 iirc, delivered including everything. Ordered Friday afternoon and delivered Monday afternoon. The cost for fitting I can’t say but I would guess at half a day labour (probably more) to de gas, fit new compressor, test and re gas etc. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/123942-ls400-mk3-aircon-compressor-replacement/
  4. At the moment there seems to be quite a few LS400's for sale on eBay and elsewhere, this particular white MKIV on eBay (link below) caught my eye and looks very nice. Lexus LS400 4.0l T-reg (1999) auto only 140k full service history https://ebay.us/BWG4Ak
  5. It does look nice, apart from the bonnet. If your nephew has £5-6k to spend there is a very low miles, Gold MK3, looks in A1 condition and is for sale on Car and Classic (also on Facebook) at a dealer in Chesterfield. I would love it but I've invested too much time/effort/money in my current Mk3 LS400 I think. However, I am toying with the idea of selling mine and buying it or just buy it and keep it as an investment (not sure if it's a good idea though)
  6. I’ve seen the one in question and I think it looks really nice. I can’t remember seeing another mk4 for sale in the same colour, very nice colour as well I think. But what has happened to the bonnet..................it looks like it’s been scratched to hell!! iirc the MOT history looks ok apart from the rear subframe corrosion, if it’s been dealt with and treated it shouldn’t be a problem. If it’s as described and drives well then it’s worth considering if the bonnet condition doesn’t put you off.
  7. Just had a look at the difference between the LS400 and the LS430 tie rods. The LS400 tie rods connect to the hub from the bottom with the ball joint underneath and the nut on the top. The LS430 is the opposite, the tie rods connect from the top with the ball joint at the top and the nut underneath. Maybe that would result in different symptoms if they are worn and could cause a wobble on an LS430 but not on an LS400. .
  8. I would hazard a guess that the tie rod ends are not in the best of shape then, judging by my experience and maybe the cause of your issue. I doubt it but you never know......... Lower/upper ball joints have the weight of the car on them and normally show symptoms when you go over a pothole or speed bump or something similar and the weight of the car comes off then back on again, if there is play then you feel/hear a clunk. Tie rod/track rod ends don't have the cars weight on them so they are free to move and 'rattle' if worn, that's my thinking anyway and there is probably a proper 'technical' explanation/description somewhere. If you think they are worn/knackered then they probably need to be replaced anyway, it's a good place to start and see if it has any effect on your wobble problem. I did a post about replacing them (see below), I can/have done most things on my car but Lexus replaced mine a few weeks ago.
  9. That is a good shout for the possible cause. Steering wobble at around 70 mph normally points to wheel balance out but thats been eliminated. So using the process of elimination - if wheels/tyres or ok - suspension is tight with no wear/play in tie rods/track rod ends - upper/lower ball joints - bushes etc are ok - steering rack itself is ok then there isn’t much left so it could very well be wheel bearing/s. I have recently replaced the tie rod/track rod ends because the rubber boots were split and over rough ish road surfaces the steering felt annoyingly loose and steering ‘rattled’ too much. They seemed ok apart from the split rubber boots and so, before I started replacing the lower ball joints and uca’s ( which I have ready to be fitted when the time comes ), I figured it was worth replacing them first and see what happens. They cured the issue I had and I’m pretty sure the tie rods that were on the car were not original oem and knackered even though they seemed ok but I didn’t experience the wheel wobble you have.
  10. Good advice 👍 and I've just ordered the same paint. From memory my car looks ok, I've not examined thoroughly though but I will now and paint it as you have done...............'an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure' as the saying goes.
  11. Paul If you check out the original manufacturers parts catalogue the part numbers for the 97 model diagram UCF 10R are the same in the diagram showing the UCF 20R the 97-2000 mark 4 which suggests Lexus have updated the parts catalogue to incorporate the suspension for the now defunct 97 mark 3 model. So this is why the part nos for that series are no longer quoted to save any confusion and Amayama are confident in their advice. Thanks Phil, that will do for me and will be ordering them along with all the other bits. I won't be fitting them just yet, they will be part of the rear end rebuild in the future. Hopefully I can source a secondhand rear sub frame assy to rebuild otherwise it will be removing all the suspension components from the car and then tidying up the current rear sub frame and treating/painting/coating where I can get to. Should be a lot better access once all the suspension is off the car.
  12. Thanks, I have looked on 7zap as well but I can't be 100% sure. Because the original arms/part numbers are no longer available I don't really have a choice but to get the MK4 arms and take a chance. I'm ordering a lot of other bits as well from Amayama and the arms are £42.26 each plus postage and duty etc. The postage will be just slightly more if I order the arms as well as the other stuff, so I reckon the 2 x arms will cost me an extra £100. It's worth getting them and if they don't fit correctly I'm pretty sure I'll get my money back at the very least selling them on to someone else with a MK4 Ls400😉
  13. Hi, according to Amayama the LH/RH 'ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1' are no longer available for the LS400 MK3 94 -97 but the same arms for a 97 - 00 MK4 are listed as a possible replacement. Does anyone on here know if the 'ARM ASSY, REAR SUSPENSION, NO.1' arms for a 97 - 00 MK4 will fit and are ok for a 94 -97 LS400 MK3 or has anyone fitted them on a LS400 MK3? If anyone has any knowledge or experience of this then it would be appreciated. I know there are a few suspension components (and others bits) for the Mk4 that can be used on the MK3 and if Amayama lists something as a 'possible' replacement then from my experience they are normally correct and they fit ok. On Amayama the parts numbers for the MK3 arms I don't think are correct as the website lists the same part number for both LH and RH but the descriptions are correct.
  14. I needed new front tyres so checked the tie rods and lower ball joints last week to see if they needed doing before putting new rubber on. Lower ball joints looked ok but the tie rod rubber boots were split so just the tie rods were replaced (not by me though) and an alignment done. I don't think the ones removed were genuine Lexus parts though. The genuine Lexus parts have a metal retaining ring at the top to hold the boot in place, the ones removed didn't seem to have this, whether this makes a huge difference or not I'm not sure. I did try to remove the tie rods myself, separated the ball joint end no problem but I struggled to loosen the tie rod locking nuts even after soaking with plus gas and leaving for a few days. Couldn't get enough purchase on them just having the car on axle stands, not enough room really. If I had a ramp it would be different, but without a ramp I could have removed the complete arms from the steering rack and got them in a vice to do it but I didn't really want to do that. The car needed an alignment after anyway so swallowed my pride and had the job done at a garage along with the alignment at the same time. With new front tyres, new tie rods and alignment (alignment was fine before anyway) the car drives better especially over rough 'ish' surfaces, front end doesn't 'rattle' much now. Car doesn't seem to wander as much but one of the front tyres was pretty knackered so that didn't help plus alignment was pretty good anyway as it was done last November.