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Razor61 last won the day on December 15 2020

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About Razor61

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  1. According to the post below that is correct but they need to be the correct make and type, there are a few different ECU's which are interchangeable for the MK3 10.1994 - 07.1997 and just one ECU for the MkIV 07.1997 - 08.2000. This is according to website: Lexus parts catalog ( I presume your car is a MK3? If it is a MK3 then, being a 97 car, the ECU is probably part number 89661-50351 which is the latest version of ECU for Europe (also see the post below about ECU Combability) I purchased the capacitors from DigiKey in the USA but there is a UK website as well: DigiKey
  2. I think they replace the caliper itself along with the caliper carrier/bracket, from what I've seen it comes as one complete unit called 'Cylinder assy'. Normally the caliper carrier/bracket can be purchased separately but not in this case.
  3. The reason the display was so bright was because the dash lights were full, past the the click, and this overrides the auto dimming when the lights come on automatically.
  4. Light are on Auto, I'll play about with the settings and experiment but now the novelty of having a large touch screen and pressing buttons etc has worn off I'll probably just leave it off until I need it or buy an SE-L🤣 The display was on it's brightest setting and it was very bright.
  5. Just a slight update on this, it's a bit bizarre, it may make you laugh, it may help someone or people may have noticed this as well. It is a bit difficult to explain but I'll do my best🙂 So I've been travelling in the dark to work since I got the car a couple of months ago and have had the sat nav/multimedia display on all the time. Start of the journey to work entails a narrow dark country road with no street lights and some left hand 90 degree bends. When going round the first left hand 90 degree bend I struggled to see the left hand side of the road, so much so I was making sure I wa
  6. Yep the ‘sliding caliper’ design does need regular maintenance and would be good if they were checked and done when the brakes are ‘serviced’ at a dealer. But in reality most of the time it’s a case of replace discs and pads, wheels on and move to the next job even at main dealers. It’s down to cost/time in the end. Apologies if this has been said before. The lower pin on the IS250 slides in the caliper itself and is metal to metal plus it’s steel to cast, moisture gets in and hey presto corrosion sets in and it seizes if not sorted. Top pin slides in a rubber bush so not metal to metal a
  7. Yep the rear brakes need more love and attention because, as you say, they work less. Same applies on most cars. Next time will take a lot less time just to grease them. When I did them this morning it was a learning curve and cleaning properly. The main bit was cleaning out the lower caliper pin bores which which were rusty, not easy to do and takes a bit of brain matter, abrasive paper and brake cleaner😉
  8. Dismantled the rear brakes etc this morning on my IS250, cleaned everything, removed any corrosion and greased the sliders and pad pins, pads and clips using Proslip stuff. Took me around 3 hours but next time will be 2 hours max now I know how it all fits together. I bought the car a couple of months ago and I had read on this forum about the rear brake slider pins seizing and the need to inspect and grease them regularly. I’m glad I did this as they needed doing, they were not moving as free as they should by any means and if left over winter I suspect one side may have seized completely. Ne
  9. 🤣 that’s a better pun than mine! I’m going to take one of the bulbs out at the weekend and make sure it is all clear glass and I’m not losing it......
  10. I have only purchased headlight bulbs from for the past few years and is where I bought the bulbs in question so they are not dodgy counterfeit, unless ABD has supplied counterfeit which I doubt. Not sure about the subtle difference you mentioned as they look the same to me, apart from my photo wasn’t taken in a photographic studio🤣 As for poor’s not difficult to fit the new bulbs themselves on the IS250, IS200 and LS400. The most difficult bit is taking off any bits in order to get to the bulbs, mainly the drivers side on the IS250. I have fitted qui
  11. You are quite right, my headlights are not xenon (as you have) or HID but halogen. The Osram D4s bulbs you mentioned and others that have been mentioned are a different type and configuration which don’t have the blanked out bit at the end, which I suspect caused the issue.
  12. I know you are😉 I didn’t look at the make of the original bulbs but the glass was clear all round with no blanked out bit/cap at the end. I don’t think it’s the Osram bulbs themselves but the design of the lens assy on the IS250. As said before the fitment isn’t straight facing towards the front of the car but at an acute angle. I can only assume the light is bounced in the lens headlight assy and the blanked bit at the end of the bulb disrupts the light. I fitted a set of the same Osram type bulbs on the Mrs IS200 at the same time, I bought a set for the IS250 and IS200 together, they have de
  13. Nope, not at all and I’m more than happy with the SE-I. I would have preferred an SE-L but not particularly for the HID headlights. The standard halogens are not really bad, I just wanted to improve them that’s all.
  14. Definitely a bit odd, I’ve never seen it before but all the other dipped/full beam bulbs I’ve replaced were pointing ‘straight on’, the IS250 bulbs are not far off pointing completely outward to the side of the car and definitely not ‘straight on’. Oh well, you live and learn by trial and error. £35 down the tube but not wasted because if I hadn’t have tried them I wouldn’t have known🤪
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