J4ck100

I forgot to update this but a while back I ordered the BAR ASSY, STRUT cushions from Amayama and it sorted my front clonk under braking 100%. Thanks for all suggestions. £50 plus fitting vs £660 for the full arms from UK!

Hi @Swan55

I have, this very moment, just had the very same experience as you had. The starter on my 1999 LS400 has been playing up as of late, often only providing a click instead of a full start. 
 

Then for the first time, on this cold January evening, I started her up and to my disbelief I heard the starter keep cranking. I proceeded to remove the key from the ignition, however to my dismay, the starter motor continued to turn.

Luckily, I remembered that Lexus equipped these fine motors with a small tool kit in the trunk, so quick as a flash I grabbed a spanner and disconnected the Battery.

Now I am looking at replacing the Solenoids with the kit listed on eBay. Tell me, did that solve your issue? A mechanic said that a safer bet would be to buy a new starter motor entirely however I would rather save the pennies and help this green earth by repairing/refurbishing my existing unit instead, if possible. 
 

Kindest regards,

jack

Well fair play to those that suggested it was fuel related 

Update: Sorted! 

Timing was fine - an injector was blocked due to debris coming through from the fuel running dry episode.

I have learnt my lesson! Didn’t think dirt could make its way past the fuel filter but I now know that’s not the case seemingly !

1 hour ago, Bluesman said:

I have often seen this answer used as  the answer to a problem but I don't think there are any cars out there where the fuel has  outlet pipe which is higher than the base of the tank so your petrol/diesel already comes from the lowest point inside the tank  and that hasn't been a problem by bringing up rubbish in your petrol tanks, so I am afraid that isn't the answer to your problem.

3 people have now said as much and the mechanic who I contacted today has confirmed also that this won’t be the case in his opinion

Hi all

Just had my LS400 ‘98 timing belt changed today.

Didn’t have much fuel in the tank when i gave it to the garage - they actually said as they were getting it to temp it ran out of fuel so they put a gallon in and finished the job.

I just drove home now and it feels down on power by a fair bit - 70hp at a guess and also is idling funny (feels like it misses occasionally) though does rev out fine. Take a look at the attached video. Every 5-10s the revs at idle dip below 1k then back again.

Initially I thought that maybe that running out of fuel meant dirt was stuck in the engine and that ECU was in some kind of safe mode but now not sure that this is the case and more likely there’s an issue with the timing belt installation.

Going to call the garage obviously ASAP but just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on likely cause? 
 

Thanks

Thanks both 

Hi all,

I am having an issue which appears to be getting worse, though it is intermittent

Sometimes when I go to start my car, I get on crank for 2 seconds and no more

Key out, back in again, perhaps one more crank and nothing, no turn over

Then maybe 3rd or 4th time i get it fire up fine as if nothing happened

Battery is tested as fine

Doing some research it looks like this could be starter motor related?

What would be the best course of action?

Thanks

jack

please

13 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

I would highly recommend:

A) Not going to the main dealer

B) Give Russell Birch of Toyotec in Redhill a call - probably a lot cheaper and just as good if not better quality work

No need to worry - was more curious than anything else. Still I think that even for the well-heeled residents of twickenham, richmond and surrounding areas that quote is taking the biscuit.

Good afternoon jack, 

Thank you very much for your email. 

Please note we would advise to replace the water pump and tensioners in replacing the timing belt as if the water pump fails in the near future you would have to do those again. 

The total cost for this work is £1523.40 Incl vat. 

We could arrange an appointment for later on this week and would need the vehicle for at least a day.

So i have just received a quote from Lexus in Twickenham for replacement of Timing Belt, Water pump and Tensioners.

Any guesses? Feel like a sweepstake (hint: not pretty)

Hi All,

I'm nearing my LS400's (1999) 2nd cambelt change (will be first in my ownership).

My question is, would you say that an average independent garage/mechanic would be able to change it without hassle?

I know its supposedly quite a job. Would you also replace the water pump and pulleys? Anyone have a good link to the parts?

Thanks

jack

This phrase would put me right off!! Clearly clueless owner!

I say it drives like a Chinese Rolls-Royce

22 hours ago, Mikaelse said:

These bushing are a bit strange. They clonk even though they do not look real bad. Changed them and clonk gone. Twice. Both cars at about 100.000 miles. Seems most sensitive rubber bushings in the suspension. I bought genuine OEM toyota made for reason mentioned. For first LS400 in 2015 from US. Have heard they may be difficult to get now. Bought last year from AMAYAMA. ( Japan )  also OEM. They stil stocked them a few months ago.. Was then less then 30 US$ each. 

Thanks, unfortunately Amayama is not currently shipping to the UK due to COVID-19.

Additionally, postage seems expensive at GBP 30 for two units from Japan to UK.

Have found what I believe to be UK stock! Will be ordering soon.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181385847044

1 hour ago, ambermarine said:

Hi

To be honest I haven't got the foggiest try them all that's there and work with one that fits best.

Weirdly none seemed to fit just right..

If you get a chance to pull your tray and take a look I’d be grateful - no worries if not. 

4 hours ago, ambermarine said:

Yes the ball bearings go into the holes with a spring at the back of them the hub then slides down into the case with the ball bearings sliding into the two grooves at the side of the case,its a bit fiddly I found it easiest to insert one in situ at an angle then ease the other ball in as you push it down. I may have confused you on the pic showing out of focus balls sitting in the case that is were they land when you remove the hub, sorry.The balls should look like they are in photo 1 which is the hub without the copper contacts in place.The copper contacts can only go back one way and are keyed.

Job done! 
 

@ambermarine I can’t begin to tell you how useful your pictures of the switch were. My hands are cut, my head is bashed (hit on surprisingly sharp metal bit of steering column!) but we made it!

One last thing - I can’t remember which screws / nuts went in the silver locations in pic attached for the coin holder / would you be so kind as to remind me of the type?

Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread - happy motoring!

3 minutes ago, ambermarine said:

Yes

That’s where we’ve gone wrong! Now where’s my tool kit 🙂

What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger!

1 hour ago, ambermarine said:

Hi Jack

Just read this request and have this minute stripped down my spare switch and as you can see the ball bearings sit in the grooves on each side of the switch body this creates the switch resistance to the different positions.

Thank you so much for this 

So I had put the ball bearings in the gully shown in your second picture but I had not taken care to place them in an exact location within 

Must the balls be placed in a specific location and should they sit nestled against the holes with springs in on the black unit once inserted in?

Thank you ever so much

jack

6 hours ago, ambermarine said:

Go for it Jack,Be careful when stripping the switch the springs may fly out,otherwise its a simple process .Where the screw fastening the switch to the car is very restrictive I used a Phillips bit held with a small pair of vice grips to rotate it from the side rather than the back.

And when you have it all back together and working properly you will glow in the fact you have saved £100.

There are approx 10 screws to remove on the lower dash and associated fixtures.

Remove  the steering column shroud first you need that out to get at some of the screws and the ignition switch shroud.

Quick question on the two ball bearings in the switch - should they sit at the bottom of the white plastic just acting as a buffer between the plastic and the black item with the springs?

thanks

6 hours ago, ambermarine said:

Go for it Jack,Be careful when stripping the switch the springs may fly out,otherwise its a simple process .Where the screw fastening the switch to the car is very restrictive I used a Phillips bit held with a small pair of vice grips to rotate it from the side rather than the back.

And when you have it all back together and working properly you will glow in the fact you have saved £100.

There are approx 10 screws to remove on the lower dash and associated fixtures.

Remove  the steering column shroud first you need that out to get at some of the screws and the ignition switch shroud.

Blimey that was one hell of a job. 4 hours total for me, 30 mins spent getting the darned second screw of the switch out!

replaced everything back as I dismantled and whilst everything works, the switch does not feel quite as it used to. Instead of “crisp” feeling intervals between ON / POWER / START etc, there’s now a bit of a mushy feeling especially when turning off the car. In addition, the final twist between phase II and ignition fire feels shorter In twist  than it previously did. Not sure if I have re-assembled the switch incorrectly to cause this?

In any case I will mull over next steps, whether I order a replacement from amayama and pluck up the courage to do it all over again or leave as is for now and see how we go.

Thanks to all who have provided direction!

best 

jack

Hi all,

Going to make a stab at cleaning my switch this weekend - bit nervous as this is a big job for me!!

Just to confirm, the switch in discussion is the switch highlighted in red on my attached picture (pinched with thanks from previous poster!) ?

So:

Step 1 - remove screws of lower dashboard (how many out of interest?

Step 2 - pull lower dashboard out inc clips

Step 3 - locate said switch

Step 4 - remove switch

Step 5 - clean switch

Step 6 - refit switch

Step 7 - beer time

Wish me luck!

Best,

jack

Hi all,

I've been on a multi month mission (good eh) trying to find some OEM black mats for my 99 LS400.

They are no longer manufactured for the UK market and aren't in stock at dealers as a result.

Does anyone know if they would be available from Japan or anywhere else for that matter?

Thanks
jack

On 2/21/2020 at 7:34 PM, Mikaelse said:

I hope this helps as alternative.  I bought from AMAYAMA.COM last time. One year ago. They still stock them.
Before that ca 2016 I bought from a US Lexus dealer . They may be out now...
 Bought stuff from AMAYAMA several times. Seems only OEM stuff. Arrives promptly perfectly packed. 

CUSHION, STRUT BAR Genuine Toyota (4867440051)  . 
Right now below 20 Euro each. Buy the bolt also .
I needed new ones.  The washers and the nut I also bought . Nice with new shiny things.

 

 

Thanks

Have you got part number for the bolt and washer/nut?

Assume the 48674440051 cushion can be used for both LHS and RHS

Thanks, Razor!

Did those century bushes need adapting or they fit just with a bit of pressure applied?