Micholas

It was done by the previous owner. The place that I use to do the LPG servicing specialise in LPG systems, but don’t strike me as being wizz’s at technical V8 diagnosis.

So next on my list is to finally sort this out. About a year ago an EML came on, after a plug in it was ‘P0171 System Too Leak Bank 1’. Quite common and equally stubborn apparently. If I clear the fault I can literally go 2 months without it appearing.. but then it’ll come back, usually when I’m doing motorway miles. Looking at the DTC chart, the amount of parts that could impact this and should be replaced is absurd. Injectors, AFM, Coolant Temp Sensor, all 02 sensors and ECM. Even though you should replace one then check, then replace the next and check etc. knowing my luck it’ll be the last part that fixes it. Maybe I should start at the bottom 😉 The airflow meter and temp sensor are cheap and easy enough, but the others will all end up costing me a fortune. I would just take it to the dealers to see if their software can pinpoint the exact cause, but they won’t do any engine diagnostics on my car because it’s got an LPG conversion! Anyone had any experience with this? Noticed any trends? Obvious fixes?

Interesting. I changed the front pads and discs and didn’t use shims (think they weren’t even there), or the replace the fixtures with a new fitting kit. But my brakes have started squeaking. My rears need doing now so I was thinking of getting them, but it adds another £120 to the job! Won’t know until I strip it whether they’ve been kept by the previous owner.

Guys Can you let me know if you do shims and the fitting kits when you fit new pads and discs? I’ve never had a car where these are required and Lexus Parts Direct said they seldom sell them.. but they are listed as needed parts when you do these jobs.

Brilliant video. Appreciate you taking the time.

In my experience these motors are very indicative of the LS430 as a whole. Awesome engine and running gear.. but poorly constructed and unreliable ancillaries and creature comforts (re. Lock actuators, window motors etc.) In my case.. you replace one steering motor and then a few months later the other goes. Whilst replacing the motor there are also a number of surrounding parts (holders and plastic bushes) you should also replace. I also hear the motor doesn’t last long so expect to do the same again in 5 plus years. The original owner of my car replaced both back in 2016 at great expense and they’ve all failed again since. I believe the mechanism etc. is quite primitive and the plastic bushes get caught up in the shaft movement, and they also run dry from lack of lubricant. So to summarise, unless you seriously want that function.. it is not worth the money or the continual hassle. However if you really want it, it’s not a hard replacement and there are lots of how to guides online.

There’s oil in shock absorbers and when the seal on the shaft is worn it lets oil out and means the dampening affect is hindered. LS430 shocks are an air bellow and standard hydraulic shaft in one.

Thanks Malcolm. I’m probably going to suck it up and pay Lexus Swindon. Always been drilled into me that you should replace both sides when dealing with air suspension.. but yeah I’ll think I’ll be sticking with one this time 😉

Thanks Steve. Lexus parts direct has them for £900. Better than most but still a third of the cars value. But I guess it is what it is.

Arnotts in America are around £450. I need to make some American friends 😌 re. The Chinese stuff being scrap, I’m saying this because every listing on eBay for the Chinese struts is from a seller with very poor feedback scores. Lots of sellers saying either the part didn’t fit or it didn’t last long. If anyones tried them and had a good experience I’d be open to giving them a go.

Hi all.. on my last couple of services I’ve had advisories from the dealership for my OSF air strut being sweaty. Tbh the suspension is starting to creak and moan these days, so I’m going to start here. Obviously the dealer wanted to charge me £1500 for the replacement. I can change it myself but as most of the cost is in the shock I’m hoping someone knows of an OE supplier in this country? I don’t fancy a second hand one as not many will be sub 100k miles.. and I’m definitely not going down the coilover route. I’ve found that Arnott produce them in the states for around £500, and I’m a big fan of their products.. but with shipping and customs it comes out not far off a genuine Lexus shock from the dealer. What have you guys done? I’m guessing the Chinese eBay shocks are scrap?

Thanks for this. But they seem to be for the facelift LS430, mines a 2001. The pressing of CD button twice, is one of the issues I had with the GROM. It’s asks to do that to get into CD2, which is essentially GROM mode.. but the pre-facelift doesn’t go into a separate CD mode. There’s just a CD button on the headunit that just flags up ‘no CD’ no matter how many times you press it and doesn’t move from radio mode. A lot of the products out there seem to be aimed at LS430’s from 2003 onwards!

Anyone recommend any decent Bluetooth adapters for a pre-facelift LS430? Tried GROM but just cannot get the thing to come up as a Bluetooth device on my phone, and their customer support is non-existent.. so pulling the plug on that. Any decent alternatives that anyone’s running on here?

As stated, all doors aren’t locking. So not a actuator issue on any particular door.

I realise there’s a number of things that could be causing this, but my 2001 LS430 with smart lock is not locking on all four doors. This is the same with me pushing the button on any door or trying to use my smart key (I only have one). Things which could impact this. I had a flat battery last week which I replaced. I also did a lot of work on the drivers door at the weekend. Removed actuator, window, replaced the whole window guide etc. Everything was plugged and bolted back together. Today I’ve double checked that nothing was missed and all was ok. Any control units known to be weak points? Anything else I could be missing? thanks

Haha I think this option sounds best!

Thanks guys appreciate the advice. I will give this a go this evening. Whilst on the subject, that middle strip is causing me a lot of grief. I thought it was a separate strip that I could just replace, but it’s actually a part of the whole rubber window run system which is all one part and connected. See below That horizontal middle strip is being dragged down by the window. I’m thinking it’s because the metal rivets aren’t holding it down anymore see below.. but the strip on the rear OS door is in exactly the same condition with the rivets missing it, but I have no issues there. Any suggestions other than completely stripping the door and fitting a whole new rubber window run?

Chaps I’m at my wits end with this so hopeful someone’s come across it before. My drivers window was always slow and started to stop half way down. I put it down to the old motor on the way out. I ordered a used one from the LS430 spares guy on eBay that everyone recommends. Spent hours on Good Friday replacing this and the lock actuator for the same door. Horrible couple of jobs. But nonetheless it worked perfectly, with the exception of the inside weather strip being loose and getting caught on the window, which I’ll have to replace next. But for the sake of testing the window I held the strip back and the window went up and down like new. Left it until today, as I have the same two issues on the OS rear door. So done the replacements on that door today. Much easier, completed it after an hour or so. Anyway after bolting it all back together, with a sense of pride I tested all windows.. and low and behold the front drivers window does the exact same thing again! Goes down slow and then stops half way!!! I have a new switch on the way, as they’re pretty cheap, but I’m very sceptical as usually a switch issue would mean it wouldn’t open at all. Anyone come across this? Anything I’m missing? Really cba to strip it all down and investigate again!

Thanks for all your comments. Firstly I replaced the radiator as soon as I got the car, so no issues there. I took the car to Toyota and they did an ATF change with no fuss or issues. Took about 2 litres out. I’ve probably put a couple of hundred miles on it since then and as always it drives like a dream. Still get the hard shifts when cold, but meh I can live with that.

One thing to also note is that main dealers have generic minor and major services across all models. And the major does not include a gearbox oil change. Not sure how long this has been the case as I’m new to Lexus’ and not sure whether this differs depending on franchise.. but my recent full service at main dealer didn’t include gearbox oil, diff oil or spark plugs. When I queried it, they showed me a sheet with what’s included in the minor and major irrespective of model. So I’m guessing if you want these done, it’s an ad-hoc job that you request and pay for outside of the service.

For the most part the gear changes are seamless. But I have noticed at lower revs when the engines cold I do notice the shifts. Popped into the local Toyota dealership this morning to pick up some new floor mat clips and they seemed quite happy to do the job. They’re calling me on Monday with a quote.

Thanks a lot for this Roy. Much appreciated. The more I’m researching this, the more I’m coming across advice saying not to touch the ATF on Lexus’ if the mileage is high and oil dirty. Apparently it causes gearbox slippage as you’re dislodging general grime that’s built up on the gears that’s stopping it from slipping at the moment. Not sure how true that is as I’ve changed gearbox oil on many an old car without issue.

It’s just down the road from the dogs home.. definitely a different franchise to the Tunbridge Wells site but still a main dealer nonetheless. If you google Lexus Battersea, you’ll see them.

Now I know Lexus aren’t too fussed about keeping their older classic cars on the road.. parts availability even for essential parts is very poor in comparison to Mercedes, BMW, Ford etc. Who still produce a number of low selling parts, even body panels for their 60’s and 70’s cars... however today took the biscuit even by Lexus’ standards.. I firstly called the Lexus dealership in Tunbridge Wells to book in and get a quote for my LS430 to get a gearbox oil change.. to my amazement I got a call back from the service advisor saying.. and I quote.. ‘the car is too old really. We wouldn’t want to get involved as it may do more harm than good, so we’re going to decline the job’ 😳 This wasn’t an engine rebuild.. or anything intense where possible NLA parts might be involved. This was a basic gearbox oil change. I was in shock, as any other main dealer for a car brand would bite your arm off to charge over inflated labour rates, let alone a so called luxury car brand. I dismissed it as being just a bad dealership so called the Battersea site asking for the same job... again they couldn’t be more disinterested. I’ve called twice now chasing the quote and availability to book the car in, and I’m pretty certain they have no interest in taking on the job. Ultimately it’s not the end of the world as I can get any decent garage to do the job. It’s just worrying how disinterested the dealer network is in their heritage cars. Even a car that’s from 2001 which for me would be still be quite new-ish.. but Lexus really don’t want to know.

I wonder if there’s any difference between a facelift and pre-facelift shock. Both have different part numbers but there’s a big price discrepancy 🤔