Lageoddvin

I'd check the air filter as well.

I did an attempt to search for a topic regarding this, but could not find something specific. 2007 IS220D -> My rear view camera is broken, sort of. It does not adjust well to light. So much so that it is completely useless in broad daylight, but will function well in a parking garage. Additionally it is very grainy, so it can be very difficult to see what is going on, even when the lighting is correct. I tried finding a used one in Norway, but could not find any. I could buy a used one from abroad, but if buying from abroad i'd much rather buy a new one, OEM or not. Byung through Lexus is not an option, i was quoted £1000+ for the part alone, can't remember the value specifically.

Has anyone bought a camera from a source, and have it work? I don't trust my skill in finding (good) sellers on aliexpress, eBay or similar.

The squeking is only when braking, or constantly?

Finally got around to installing this today. It worked like a charm, and the sound is better than it was with the AUX cable. Can recommend the product 10/10 compared with alternative solutions, both in terms of price, and in terms of keeping it fairly original

On 6/19/2021 at 8:58 PM, Aaron G said:

@LageoddvinThanks for that. I'm having some serious problems finding a competent mobile mechanic and I don't trust the dealers to do anything. I'm a carpenter by trade and don't agree with just watching a Youtube video or reading a forum and assuming you're able to do another trade's job right after.

So I left the important jobs to the mechanics: coolant, brakes, brake fluid, etc. But If I listed all the bodge-ups the past 3 mechanics I've employed have made, I think I'd be better off at having a go at DIY destroying it myself.

I mean when mechanics are happy to let your brakes seize up and let you die, what have you got to lose?.

And one thing you do is save money.

Changing rotors + pads on all four wheels, i was quoted £3000 (Norway🙃) from all workshops i asked for quotes from.

I spent a week doing the job, because once i got it disassembled i found broken threads on bolts, siezed pistons etc, so had to change calipers and holders on the front. And a lot of rust everywhere (Norwegian winter + salting of roads), so i basically had to beat everything into submission. Rear calipers involved the rear of an axe to twist the caliper of the rotor (copper paste be damned). Had to buy tools etc to handle the extra work, but overall i spent about £900 on parts and tools, tools being about half of this.  You get a very nice feeling of mastery once your done with it 🙂

Apart from the above i just followed this one on my mobile phone:

4 hours ago, Aaron G said:

I had a mobile mechanic come out as the rear calipers had seized. He worked them loose, cleaned them off, and coated the spindles/barrels (whatever you call the parts the calipers slide on) with copper ease to prevent them rusting again.

Now another mechanic said that was the worst thing he could have done, and he should have used grease.

Thing is the first mechanic added water to my pre-mixed coolant, and I've just realised the second one I had over today to replace the brake fluid has bent all of the jacking points (all of them) on the car. I managed to bend them back - metal was soft, maybe annealed. Doubt they'd go back a third time though.

So as far as the copper ease goes - will that cause the calipers to seize again? I also read a write up on the internet that said as it's copper based it will hold the heat more.

I would never use copper paste on anything near a brake caliper, no way. Mine had that, and everything was seized. I mean everything. The sliding pins holding the pads, the bolt on the caliper, the sliding pin for the caliper. I would disassemble that immidately and lubricate it with brake caliper grease

Considering what my local workshop told me when i asked what kind of paint mix i need to use to fix a rust issue on my car, its complete bull****.

I have a mother of pearl (or whatever i should call it) IS220d, and they basically said they don't want to do repainting, because it takes so much time to get right. I got the same answer from a body shop as well. They are all like "we can try, but no takesies backsies"

@mepI had a similar issue to what you describe last summer when my Battery died due to leaving the boot open, and the lamp draining the Battery. When i tried to connect the Battery again, i had all kinds of strange electrical issues. What i did was leave the Battery unhooked over night, then install Battery and leave the car overnight, without touching anything. Did not try to start it, not unlock or lock, nothing. Then in the morning, it seemed the "brain" had snapped back into place, and everything was alright again. Best i could read regarding it was that the brain of the car was stuck, thinking the Battery was faulty, and that disconnecting it for some time, and then connecting it would be the best way forward. Supposedly not that uncommon for a range of cars according to my brothers in-laws.

When i see the prices you're all talking about, it gutting to live in Norway. IS220d's from 2006 - 2008 are mostly about £8000 - £12000 here. There is one available for £4000 now, but that seems fishy looking at the company selling it

12 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

So what you did address the condition of callipers? 

But indeed - copper grease is terrible idea as "lubricant" for slider pins, almost guaranteed way to get the stuck.

Calipers themselves were ok, did a proper clean of the pins and everything i could reach with equivalent to WD-40 (can't remember the brand) + wirebrush + steelwool. Then gave them copious amounts of oil, then remove the spillovers. Haven't had an issue with them after that. Also greased the pins with caliper grease, so should be easier this summer when i need to change handbrake.

My impression is that it is the pins that can become jammed, they were though to get out, but with cleaning they were ok it seemed

6 hours ago, H3XME said:

Sounds like you have a problem with sticky calipers. Rear ones are especially prone to it. They need to be greased up. I recommend doing it asap. If they were able to remove the calipers they're not too bad. My rear one was so bad I had to spend almost an hour hitting it with a rubber mallet. I don't think anyone ever greased it until me.

I had to spend an hour on each side with the rear end of an axe to twist them of my discs last summer. Rubber mallet did nothing. Some previous owner had used copper paste to "lubricate" the sliders. The most frustrating thing i have done on a car ever.

2 minutes ago, zoricib said:

Take your time when removing the stereo so you don't chip your dashboard around the vent and test it before you put everything back 😁

I think my dash has been changed, cause is is soft and not at all crispy, so i don't think there is anything to worry about in that regards. Testing it before installing it again is a good tip though 🙃

Thanks, just bought it, so now its just a waiting game

On 8/10/2020 at 4:21 AM, juicestop said:

This https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07JN9MD28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So this link is dead, and i don't know what the thing was called. Do you perhaps have the name of the part saved in your order history. Need to track this down.

14 hours ago, Jaro said:

See attached videos. 
 

Sounds to me like an injector is knocking, am I going crazy or is it actually knocking?

https://youtube.com/shorts/8J8YDOmfhIo?feature=share

Something is definately not right with that idle sound, but i have no idea what is wrong

Oh boy, this is gonna be fun and a halv. Last year i took my 2007 IS220d to the dealer, because the AC controls in the car were acting funny on startup. When the car was started, the center "front window heating" button would flash continously for 5-10 seconds, and it would not accept any inputs. And all it ever did was blow air onto the windscreen, no matter what function, or mode i chose.

So Lexus diagnosed it and concluded that the hvac radiator and fan motor is dead. £6000 worth of parts with work on top of that they estimated. Hell no. They also wanted £4000 to change brakes and pads front and back + shock absobers at the front last year, and i did that myself for a tenth of the cost.

I recently aquired the parts i need to change all of the broken HVAC stuff, cost about £490 for the parts and im gonna do it myself. I got the time, and the determination/anger to do it, but i can't find any videos of anyone disassembling the relevant stuff. Does anyone have any documentation to help med out?

I have had the same issue on mine, however it was very intermittent. I turned on the cooling, to 3, and then waited a few seconds, then turned it off again. After that it stopped. I have had this issue once or twice

4 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Lage. Look at the picture I've posted. This is my Bluetooth set up to stream music. No need at all to remove the radio. 

 

I suppose that works, but i have had some smaller issues with my AUX port, which is partly why i was looking into Bluetooth audio streaming in the first place. Thanks anyway for the tip

Nice! Thank you. Im gonna give it a whirl and see if it works 👍

Sorry to ressurect a dead thread, but 'tis the season for ressurections 

How does the @zoricib adaptor work on your phone? If i install the adaptor, does that mean i need to connect to a different Bluetooth than my oem Bluetooth? Or will i still only connect to the oem Bluetooth and have the oppurtunity to stream audio?