SteveGee

Aaah - guys, the rubber door inserts initially fixed the problem - but only for a few days! I guess the rubber has changed shape somewhat, so that it again allows for door movement? Might try a second insert on the 2x problem doors - but that seems extreme with the rubbers around 5-6 mm thick? Or - off to the Lexus dealer I guess? 😝 Steve

Thanks Jon - I've got to go and get a couple of things from the Parts store today; will check for those. Would be great to get rid of this damn rattling! Cheers Steve

Hi guys - not really all of the above; (just the rattle) but I thought the title was cool(ish)? My 2012 IS 250 has only 93,000 kms on it - but the drivers and LH rear passenger door bump around like they are loose on hinges or similar? I took it to a local (non Toyota) body repairer; thinking it might just need adjustment of door hinges - but in his brief look, he stated that it was unlikely to be an issue since the doors sit and fit nicely and there were no unusual wear signs on latch etc? Are they known for any issues that result in noises from doors over moderate road bumps? For example door rubber seal degradation etc? 😏 Cheers Steve

>>>When the circuitry is designed for LEDs (as in my GS300h) the voltage steps will be much smaller so no (or much less) flicker. Thanks John - had no idea. It's no big deal though; the flicker is brief and the resulting white light, much cleaner and more modern looking. 👍 Cheers Steve

Thanks John - it was easier than I thought; the lens of the light just pops out using a very small straight tip screwdriver - replaced all three! Now I have a bit of flickering as the LED's power up and when the centre one dims - so I'm going to experiment with another brand, they're as cheap as.... Many thanks for the assistance though. 👍 Steve

Thanks John - that did help and I got the 2 screws out - but that was it? Not sure what a moulding remover is - but I couldn't sight the two clips? I don't want to force it - coz it's in a key and visible position if I break or damage it, so it's back together for the moment..... 😛

Hi all Just wondering if anyone has ever replaced the door operated overhead lights? I could just pull down on the whole lamp housing (which does have some give) - but obviously don't want to damage anything. 😄 Cheers Steve

Thanks for the advice Steve - will get to it shortly; I will also replace the HB3 High beam at the same time! Once you've become used to the nice white colour of LED's - Halogens just don't cut it..... Cheers Steve

Apologies Vlad - it's not the indicator I am referring to - it's the little 5 Watt Halogen lamp inside the High Beam headlight shell, which in my 2011 IS250 sits inside and is on - whenever headlights are on? In Australia - we would call the Parking Lights, but the book calls them Front Position lights?

Hey all - further to my other LED questions - has anyone swapped out the 5 Watt Halogen Position lamps in the High Beam shell? Really dislike the yellow colour and would like to switch to LED white - but a bit concerned about dazzling oncoming cars; since they're permanently on when headlights are on? Cheers Steve

Hey Steve - love it; recently bought a Silver IS250 would have loved the Burgundy - but were none around at the time. Where did you source the headlights - I have considered VLAND's but still not sure - think the black shaded lights look nice too.... Steve from Oz

Yeah guys - my eBay - Aux to USB cable gadget came - plugged the USB in it, and it into the Aux port. It immediately came up showing the Aux tab and said it was playing - but there was NO sound...... 😪 So I think I'll have to go with the Bluetooth Adapter - and use my phone storage as the source for recorded music and see if that does it? Very disappointed - but hey, I guess I will get there somehow, someway.... 👁️‍🗨️👁️‍🗨️ Steve

Yeah and thanks guys - I tried this - just this morning. Formatted my 32 Gb USB - even did slow format rather than quick format. But - transferred just one album off Media Player - yet it still just doesn't see the USB stick? Hey it's possible I have a faulty line-in off my USB port I suppose? I have ordered a USB to straight Aux pin connector off eBay - to see if that's it, but flyin' blind atm. Bogdan - if I later buy one of those gadgets you have suggested - is it head unit out - to get at the back of mine to plug it in? I just hate the thought of pulling the dash apart?

OK - likely a dumb question, because I'm mostly thinking of looks rather than practical advantage? My stock 2011 IS250 has the 17" factory alloys. They look okay, but the car looks just a tad "old man" in stock form - and I'd like to improve that a bit. Wheels are an obvious choice - and here in Australia I have found these. They are available to me in either 17 or 18 inch. Current tyres were on the car when I bought it a couple of weeks back and nearly new, very good brand. So I would wait a while, if I went 18 - but could fit 17's now. Just wondering if there's any noticeable benefit - other than looks with an 18" upgrade? Cheers Steve

>>>The USB device needs to be FAT 32 format. Okay - and thanks - this is the 2nd time I have heard this; but I am confused? I thought FAT32 was for data files and MP3 for music - if I am wrong; how do I record my CD's across to FAT32 onto a USB, compared to using Windows Media Player which I am pretty sure defaults to MP3? 🤒

Hi all Less than two weeks ownership; and already troubling you all, with two lots of questions. I used to play music MP3's easily on my 2013 Ford Focus ST via the USB input in the console, no probs. But the Lexus - so far has seen only one of two USB's and not playing (or data shown) - 2nd one doesn't even register on screen as a USB? 🤪 I've seen some conversions using Grom Audio Vline 2 - but it seems costly at around $1100 AUD + install and one really bad UK video review of them where the owner has had 4x replacement Vline 2's and still getting issues? Just want a low cost reliable way to play hours of music via USB - is it possible? Steve (from Oz)

Hi all - just wondering about reliability of the Vlands - I love the look, but have seen some comments about DRL LED failures, condensation inside and flickering? Cheers Steve

>>>Going down the LED route is much more expensive because you need the ballasts and wiring etc. Not so Mr Vlad - all LED's come complete with inline or built in ballasts. I am going to try replacing the High beam with LED's first and see; managed to get a set off Amazon for $60 AUD. It may be enough - especially considering I will probably add a light bar for night highways. But for the projector Low Beam I might ry the Osram Night Breaker Laser - since those are the ones that are most often used. Cheers all! Steve

>>>Obviously I’m not sure on the legalities involved in Australia regarding vehicle lighting so I would check before replacing the bulbs. Aah Steve - it's quite possibly not 100% legal, but lots of us do it - and add LED light bars in the country also. My mechanic recently hit a big roo and compltely wiped out her car; so we're not too fussed about the legalities. Even the boys in blue tend to disregard any lighting mods. 😁 I was mostly wanting to draw on experience here - since there are so many LED choices, hoped to get a couple of reference of types that had succeeded? Cheers Steve

Hi all Big hello from down below.... Joined you all - because this Forum looks alive - the Aussie one, not so much. 🤒 Have owned my 2011 IS250 for a grand total of 9 days loving it - but it sure needs some updating! The H11 Low and HB3 High halogen lamps are just too yellow and dull. Since I am in rural South Australia we do have Kangaroos at night, even in the actual township at times and I like to see as far as possible. Is it a straight plug and play LED swap even in the Projector low beams, without Canbus error codes? Also - before I go and pull all the bits and pieces apart to get at the lamps - can anyone show me what the LED bases actually look like please? I have seen some LED's with fan bases, some without and want to make sure I buy the right lamp type? Cheers in advance! Steve