cleverdick

An update: Have found the part number for a 4 litre can - 08886-81015. Rang the Toyota dealer again (who didn't recognize the US part number) and they've quoted £38.59, presumably plus VAT. Is that a reasonable price?

I've just had a rather fruitless conversation with the parts guy at my local Toyota main dealer who wasn't familiar with ATF type IV, let alone whether they could supply it. Apparently they've never been asked for it before. (Took him a while to acknowledge that Lexus and Toyota are one and the same, too). So where does one buy this stuff? My local independent uses an equivalent (supplied in large drums) which I assume is the Mobil 3309, but all I want is 8 litres or so of genuine Toyota T-IV ATF. Why is this so difficult? Any advice welcome!

The fluid is drawn from the pan, through the internals of the transmission, through the external cooler and then back into the pan. You want to do the pan first so that all fluid drawn up is fresh and because you disconnect the cooler line you stop any of the old fluid that was in the transmission from going back in and mixing with the new. So yes after you do the drain/refill you disconnect the cooler, start the engine and let a litre out, stop the engine, put a fresh litre of fluid in through the dipstick tube and repeat untill the fluid coming out of the disconnected pipe is nice and clean. Then check the fluid level is within the cold markings as a guide and then drive for at least 15 minutes and then check the level is within the hot marking. You shouldn't rely just on the cold markings as they are just a guide, the hot marking are the accurate ones. To check the fluid level make sure the engine is running and move the gear selector through each position (pausing a couple of seconds between shifts) until back in Park and then check the dipstick (keeping the engine running). Sorry I'm not sure about the gasket/sealant for the pan, may be worth searching through the forums on the US LOC site - many more LS, GS and SC owners in the US ← Thanks Colin, That's crystal clear now. All I have to do now is to find some T-IV at an affordable price. Surprisingly, my local independent Lexus workshop suggested I buy some of their 'T-IV grade Dexron'! Now, even though I'm no expert, either it's the genuine stuff or it's not, and I hope you agree that I should hold out for the real thing at any cost! Regards, Rich

Cheers Colin, but could you elaborate a little? After draining and refilling the sump, do you then remove the front cooler pipe and drain from there, or does it amount to the same thing? Which part(s) of the process do you repeat? And what about the sump gasket sealant? Sorry if I'm being pedantic, but I really would like to be 100% clear on this before I go ahead. Thanks again, Rich

Hi, I've been reliably informed (and confirmed by the LexLS webmaster) that the filter is just a metal gauze which can be cleaned, so that is what I intend to do. Concerning the fluid, I cannot stress strongly enough to ONLY use Toyota T-IV (which has superseded T-II). This comes up time and again on the forums - people have had horrendous problems as a result of using Dexron or Mercon fluids in the LS400 box. This transmission is very complex and delicate, and you could possibly write off the box by using the wrong fluid in it. It's not tolerant like an old Ford C3. Why take the risk?

I have this problem, albeit slight and intermittent, at exactly 45 m.p.h., normally when the engine is just warming up. I've changed the plugs, leads, cleaned the TB yet it still does it, sometimes accompanied by a sulphuric smell from the catalytic convertors. Fuel and air filters are new, too. I'm about to change the trans fluid as my next step. The guy at my independent Lexus garage has witnessed the fault but has not been able to diagnose it as yet. Possibly a temp. sensor, he reckons. So please keep us posted should you make any progress on this one! Thanks, Rich

I'm about to renew the TX fluid on my 1990 LS. (1) LexLS says to drain from the front cooler pipe, refill and repeat until clean. Would it not be quicker to drain the pan too, therefore replacing more fluid in one go? I intend to remove the pan anyway for inspection and to clean the filter. Which leads me onto my next question... (2) Is it OK to apply a bead of red Hermetite to the (new) sump gasket? Is this stuff non-acidic? Alternatively, what sealant is recommended (and easily available in the UK) for autobox sumps? Thanks in advance...

Well,I cleaned the throttle body, and at the moment it does seem to have made an improvement. But time will tell! I did remove the whole thing. You don't have to drain the coolant, as the TB is the highest point on the engine. Water loss is minimal and can be soaked up with a towel. The large 1" dia. hose underneath is an air pipe BTW. Hardest part is disconnecting the two small water hoses, one of which I found was easier to cut through and replace afterwards. A replacement gasket can easily be made from gasket paper. Just allow plenty of time! Rich

Yesterday, when pulling into a car park, my ABS operated for several successive applications of the brake. The only other time I've been aware of the ABS operating was in snow. After restarting to leave, this 'fault' had cleared itself and hasn't occurred since. Has anyone else had this? Any ideas of a likely cause? Thanks, Rich

Try getting the discs machined ON THE CAR by a shop with a Pro-Cut lathe. This fixed an identical problem I had on a (UK) Ford Granada. Probably best to wait a couple of hundred miles after fitting new discs so as to let them warp to their natural shape (given the stresses inherent in the metal). Then get them skimmed on the car. The advantage of this is that the lathe is referenced to the axis of rotation, and takes into account any unevenness on the rotor mating surface. Ensure, too, that you only use a torque wrench to tighten your wheel nuts. Rich

Thanks Colin... The engine isn't running hot - temp gauge (when warmed up) is bang in the middle. Idle is smooth too, by the way. Cheers, R.

Hi all, I have recently noticed that my 1990 LS400 suffers from a 'flat spot' at around 45 m.p.h. when accelerating, sometimes accompanied by a smell of sulphur. This seems to happen just at the end of the warm-up phase. I have replaced the spark plugs and HT leads (for Denso Iridium and Solid Ace respectively) but the symptom persists. I have read about this on the forum - seems to be a common problem - although each posting seems to be a bit inconclusive. The throttle body on my car definitely needs cleaning, but would that cause a flat spot at 45 m.p.h.? Throttle position sensor, maybe? But what about the rotten egg smell? Any advice gratefully received!

Hi all, Thanks for your replies. Despite the fact that Nippon Automotive quoted for 'Blue Print' leads, those that turned up were actually branded 'Solid Ace'. I have fitted them without any trouble and the car certainly runs OK at the moment (with new Denso Iridium plugs). The resistance of each new lead measured only slightly lower than the 15 year old originals, the longest being in the region of about 15k Ohms. So the question is: Will they last like the OE leads? Have I made a false economy? Cheers, Rich

I've been quoted £125 inc. VAT for a set of 'Blue Print' branded HT leads for LS400, against the Genuine Toyota item at about £150 plus VAT. Has anyone on here used 'Blue Print' leads? Has anyone had a bad experience with 'Blue Print' products?

1990 LS400. The FM radio reception on my car lacks top-end - at least when compared to CD or cassette. I have a theory that the OE receivers in early models may have all had the US-standard 75uS de-emphasis, as opposed to 50uS for Europe and the UK. What this means in simple terms is that the receiver filters off more treble than it should, resulting in a dull sound. This is no big deal, since I hardly listen to the radio in the car - just curious as to whether anyone else has noticed this.

Carlo, I'm sure they will work OK, but bear in mind that Denso Iridium plugs were fitted as OE, with a projected life of around 100k miles (I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong). Platinum plugs, whilst far superior to 'ordinary' types, won't last like the Iridium ones. But then they are much cheaper. I guess it all depends wether or not you're willing to replace the plugs every couple of years or so, which, let's face it, isn't exactly a 5-minute job on the LS.

I understand that LS400s have a pollen filter each side. How does one replace them? Is it straightforward? Thanks, Rich (1990 LS400)

As far as I know the ISC valve is functioning correctly, with the idle speed falling from about 1300rpm after a cold start to just over 600 when warmed up. Switching on the [working] a/c doesn't really affect the idle speed. However, this whole thing's taken a back seat recently because I've just had to shell out £500 for a new front upper wishbone (to stop a knocking sound) The bushes can't be got separately, so I've been told. So I'm not inclined to spend any more money on something which (at the moment) is relatively trivial. But thanks for all your advice anyhow.

Hi, It's true, I don't have any of the problems mentioned, except perhaps that you have to squeeze the accelerator slightly before anything happens. But I wouldn't call its performance hesitant in any way! MPG is around 25 on the motorway, traction control is not fitted. I don't have a code reader, hence the need to resort to my faithful old DMM. But all I ever wanted to do was raise the idle speed slightly, which I was led to believe you could do by rotating the TPS. It would not be surprising if the the TPS had a dead spot - let's face it, potentiometers do wear, even those with conductive plastic tracks (which I'm sure these have). I'll get a diagnostic check done next time I visit my independent Lexus garage. R.

Thanks ROYT: Looks like my TPS might have had it. It certainly doesn't give a reading of anywhere between 200 and 1200 Ohms - definitely either short or open circuit across the lower two pins, going from one condition to the other by the tiniest rotational movement. So what symptoms would one expect from a worn TPS? Idle speed is steady at 600. Cheers... :duh:

Hi guys, I'm hoping you can help me with a minor problem affecting my 1990 LS400. The idle speed when warm is about 600 r.p.m. This in itself is not an issue, however at that speed there's a very slight 'boom' from the engine, possibly the exhaust. Increasing the revs to 650 - 700 on the gas pedal causes this noise to vanish completely. I'd therefore like to raise the idle speed ever so slightly to take care of this. I've checked the position of the TPS as per the official instructions (with some miniature clip leads), but at either 0.4mm or 0.85mm the continuity is either completely on or off at both gap settings. In other words, if I set the position of the TPS for zero Ohms at 0.4mm, when I insert the gauge of 0.85mm it's still zero. I have to turn the TPS round a bit for it go open circuit. It's then still O/C when I check it again at 0.4 mm! I've reset it as close as I can to its original position so that the car runs smoothly enough, although now, when slowing to a stop, you can feel the trans shift down whereas I don't think you could before. It's pretty subtle though. I'm wondering if, being a RHD model, there is some slight difference in the gap settings when adjusting the TPS position. Being a UK version, the throttle stop screw is on the top as the cables enter from the opposite direction (unlike in the tutorial on lexls.com). However, looking at the throttle stop screw, it doesn’t appear to have a direct effect on the throttle position anyway. Closer inspection suggests that winding in the throttle damper dashpot screw might do the trick. However, it was found that even in the ‘foot off gas’ position, the damper was nowhere near bottomed out, even with the screw wound right in. I’m therefore thinking of adapting the damper bracket in some way to give a definite ‘backstop’ to this screw. (Will let you know if this works.) In fact, removing the damper completely seemed to have no effect on the driveability of the car whatsoever. To sum up: (1) Does the position of the TPS affect smoothness of gear changes at slow speed? Have I buggered it up? (2) Has anybody noticed any detrimental effects from removing the throttle damper? Final question: Is it normal for the car to idle at a higher speed (say 1300 rpm) for a couple of minutes when started warm? Comments appreciated! Thanks, Rich

Out of interest, did your airbag(s) go off? If so, has your hearing been affected? Good luck, and be safe... Rich

Hi everyone, I've just bought an old LS400 which, sadly, has seen quite a bit of neglect. However it drives great and everything works, but I have a couple of questions appropriate to this section of the forum which I have already mentioned in the 'general maintenance' bit - hope you don't mind. (1) What is the cooler pipe which runs in front of the radiator / a.c. condensor at the bottom? Is it for the PAS or transmission? I am concerned because this pipe is rusty. I've painted it with underseal temporarily to stop it getting worse, but I know I must get it changed ASAP. Difficult job? Expensive etc. etc.? (2) Is the shifter position indicator (by the lever) supposed to light up at night? Mine doesn't. (3) When going over a bump or rough surface, there is a 'tyre smacking' sound from the rear. All tyres are OK, with the rears inflated to 33 p.s.i. Is this sound a symptom of worn suspension bushes or suchlike? Sorry if these seem trivial questions, but I've only had the car a few days.

Hi all, I've just rescued a tatty and neglected 1990 LS400. 104k miles, Lexus service history up to 60k then bugger all after that! However, it drives like a dream and miraculously everything works, even the instrument needles illuminate fully! :D Seats are rock hard. though... So, I hope you don't mind if I ask a few silly few questions :P (1) There is what appears to be a cooler pipe for either the transmission or PAS, in front of the radiator or a/c condensor at the bottom. This pipe is fairly rusty, especially around the hose unions, so I am anxious to get it changed ASAP, especially if it is a transmission cooler. I've painted it with underseal as a temporary measure just to stop it getting any worse. What is this likely to cost to get changed - or can it easily be done at home? (2) With the steering on full lock to the left, the horn sounded (I didn't press it, I swear!). Has anyone else experienced this? It has only done it once, though. (3) Is the transmission shifter position indicator [by the lever] supposed to light up? No big deal with it being in the instruments, but thought I'd ask. (4) I found a strange steel clip under the passenger seat. I have a pic of it, but can't quite see how to attach it to this post. It's j-shaped, about 10cm long and about 15mm wide, with a couple of 'notches' at the end of the longer side. I was just worried that it might be part of the seat or something, but more likely the remains of an early carphone holder. (5) I have noticed what looks like an opto sensor of some kind at the bottom of the windshield, right in the corner on the driver's side. Any idea what this is? (6) Haven't thought of this question yet... Cheers... Rich