kallabungo

Does anybody know why i can't remove this crankshaft cover? It has some play up the sump end so i can tell the seal has been broke but the rest towards the gearbox end feels well and truly secured still...

Just to add... You will need a T55 torx, not a T50, and guess at which point i realised this...? I couldnt get enough surface area on the piston to tap it out with a screw driver or similar. However, a pair of waterpump pliers gripped around the very end of the piston twisting and pulling removed them quite easily. Also, to try and fit the weather seals into their channel after putting the piston in proved somewhat difficult. There was barely any room to squeeze the rubber seal in without damaging it. So i opted to install the seal and its retaining ring into the channel first then stretched the seal over the piston and pushed it home. Easy enough...

My original shocks were destroyed - i had brake wobble and the car was an asbolute mess to drive. Fitted BC coilovers last year - have knocking over all the usual bumps in the road. ARB links were changed at the same time as coilovers too. I've personally convinved myself its the pillow ball top mounts of the coilovers but im not exactly trained into the noise these pillow balls are said to produce?

Well i thought to myself as i was driving about that i had an awful amount of drag on the car. Upon further inspection i have noticed that on each front caliper one of the sliders is completely jammed - and they are the opposite ones to each other. Pistons look pretty corroded and will not push back. I attempted to clean them up with a little sanding and a light application of lubricant but it made no difference at all. What steps shall i take now? I have seen the kits for sale on ebay £333.33 for 2 front drilled and vented discs mintex, 2 pairs front pads mintex, new calipers left and right. Im thinking a garage would probably push towards getting new brakes rather than refurbing them? I need the cheapest solution but i dont really want to buy second hand calipers from ebay because they will probably be close to useless with the history of is200 calipers...! I'm pretty competent with most mechanical things on cars so i would tackle it myself if need be - what's best for bleeding the brakes etc? Clamp the hose off a few inches above the caliper before removal? Your advice is appreciated, stu.

Im now about to head off to the parents for a roastie so i'll look at swapping the wheels over when i get back...

I've taken some pics of the front, sorry on the poor quality, it's hard to see anything from this... I measured the distance from the brake disc to the face of the wheel and both front sides are an equal distance - which would suggest to me that the offsets are correct?

I have had fitted for a few months now the BC coilovers with OZ Ultraleggera 18's ET35 with 225/40/18 tyres. Now the only side that is causing me any issues is the front drivers side, it always rubs and stuff so today i've had a look into it and have found that the whole wheel/assembly is poking right out of the arch. As suggested by another member the ride height at the front is 63.5cm and doesnt cause any problems at all on the left. Yes the two tyres on the front are different, Yoko Prada on passenger and Michellin pilot sport on drivers but i've calliper measured the height and walls and they are nowhere near as far apart as the picture demonstrates. This is a pic of the car jacked up on drivers side Now the passenger side, jacked up Car sitting flat on drivers side Flat on passenger It doesnt take a genius to work out that there's something not quite right here, but what does require genious-like abilities is fixing it... What do i do...?

I've been given a pair of prada spec 2's and a pair of proxes in 225-40-18 all with good tread. I was just wondering which would be the grippiest with the current east of england weather conditions...? I intend to have the grippiest on the front, i hate understeer! Thank you :)

After i used to intake cleaner to get rid of residue on the throttle body i started the car only to find an engine check light had illuminated. I tried a few little things then as a last resort disconnected the battery, left it a couple of mins, reconnected and voila! fixed itself... Give it a try, it could save you the cost of the diagnostics report. The original stereo's come up for sale all the time http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/lexus-is-200-stereo_...=item2556dc72a9 I have one spare but unfortunately couldnt part with it incase i sell the car, i may have to put it back :D

I always blip the throttle just a little bit above 1000rpm before starting to lift the clutch and accelerate. I've found this to be very effective at staying away from the clutch judder but sometimes i still get it wrong...

Cheers Aaron. I have measured mine and the front is 63cm but the back is 59.5 :) I dont think im going to need to go as high as 66 if i cut the arches - that lip on them sticks in quite far and with 225 tyres on there now its only a few mm away. Angle grinder will be out this weekend and i'll post my results...

I was just wondering if anybody had the measurements for how much should be considered a sensible and usable drop using BC coilovers and 18" wheels with 40 profile tyres? (im thinking its a long shot but i'll at least try) Cheers.

Well thats how it was, at first... but i have raised the front to pretty much the same as what the back looks like. The back i havent had a single issue with and the guestimation on height first time round seemed to be spot on. I have raised the front twice now and used the damper settings to stiffen things up a bit and it still does it. It's not all the time, but only when i go over a lump in the road or pothole or bank it into a corner really hard. Using BC Coilovers and cusco ARB's at the moment, i love the comfort and can feel how well the dampers work compared to the original shocks - perhaps i need to play with the spring rate so i dont have to max the damper out? I'll probably try and avoid cutting holes out then...

You see, i did think about that - being at the strut towers where the hole would need to be cut - but would a strut brace then not counteract the hole making? Or am i being slightly stupid?

Well, i know its down to how low the car is but the front upper wishbones are hitting right at the top inside the wheel arches. Other than the obvious of raising the car (for the 3rd time...) is there anything i can do? Im quite tempted to cut holes out in the strut mount area where it is hitting but im not sure if that will then allow the balljoint attached to the wishbone to then go up so far that it would hit the bonnet from the inside? I dont think the car is all that low, i dont seem to be having any troubles grinding the bottom of the car out, and the ride comfort and handling is spot on... Upgradable wishbones at all? perhaps rubber bump stops...? Cheers.