Ado1379
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Everything posted by Ado1379
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Ok so good news I hope. Techstream has found a short/open circuit in the injection system and I have an error code for an injector too. I used the active test to individually cut fuel to the cylinders. And sure enough there was no change in the idling when I did cylinder 3. So this poses a few new questions... firstly, if you take away all the stuff about thinking it was the turbo, could this explain my symptoms? (Loss of power, rough/jerky idle, slight knocking noise under the bonnet) And secondly, is it best to get this injector repaired or buy new? I can code in the new injector with Techstream.
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okay, nothing was done with this as far as I am aware, but seeing as though the EGR is blanked, I could disconnect this? It uses the same air feed as the wastegate vacuum valve. So maybe because this cooling actuator is constantly opening and closing it’s reducing the vacuum input (or lack of) on the wastegate? I maybe talking nonsense too 😂 it also seems to start playing up when the engine is at operating temperature. Reading about these cooler egr coolers they only kick in at operating temperature?
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Okay, so the mysterious valve on the right goes to the first actuator you can see in that picture (what I mistook for the wastegate) and this is the one that keeps opening and closing when the car fails, I have noticed it only fails when the car is up to temperature. the valve on the left (the one I tested last night) does go to the wastegate. The wastegate opens and closes if you pinch the vacuum pipe and let it go so I’m sure that is working correctly
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So my findings for today, embarrasingly last night I was looking at the wrong vacuum valve and I believe I was looking at the one for the variable veins in the turbo? Which would explain the results I was getting So after finding the right valve, I unplugged it and blew through it, air coming out the filter. Connecting it to 12v and blew through, air coming out the other vacuum pipe. So it seems to be working. However I drove the car with it unplugged and could tell no difference (turbo kicking in as normal) and I had no error codes displayed, but I did with the other vacuum valve. Surely this isnt normal? I am getting a resistance across the valve with my multimeter. interestingly enough though, since I unplugged it and starting messing around I can’t get the car to fail again. I have added a picture because I’m not entirely sure I have the vacuum hoses in the right configuration, if someone could confirm this I would be grateful! And thanks for all the input guys!
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Yeah I’m measuring 12 ohms across the valve. Which is about right according to your picture earlier. I hadn’t disconnected any of the vacuum lines I just unplugged it. I haven’t finished playing with it yet. I pinched the vacuum hose and it slowed down the wastegate actuator. I’ll disconnect the line to it tomorrow when it stops raining. Im an aircraft engineer by trade but they generally don’t have turbos 😂
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You may be on to something here, ive had it off and cleaned plug terminals. Had no way to check It with battery power at work. But I’ve put it back on and it took a while to fail but it did eventually. I even swapped around the vacuum lines and it failed instantly. Whilst it was still failed and with the wastegate opening and closing on idle I unplugged the vacuum valve with no difference? So maybe for whatever reason it just creating a vacuum after a certain period of time. ( maybe temperature related?) ill order a second hand one off eBay and see if it makes a difference! thank for the input I had no idea where the vacuum valve was on this.