Ado1379

Ok so good news I hope. Techstream has found a short/open circuit in the injection system and I have an error code for an injector too. I used the active test to individually cut fuel to the cylinders. And sure enough there was no change in the idling when I did cylinder 3. So this poses a few new questions... firstly, if you take away all the stuff about thinking it was the turbo, could this explain my symptoms? (Loss of power, rough/jerky idle, slight knocking noise under the bonnet) And secondly, is it best to get this injector repaired or buy new? I can code in the new injector with Techstream.

It’s fine, I haven’t done anything further since we talked as I was using my other car for a bit. Now I finally got Techstream working I can get a more detailed look into what’s going on. Also going to fit a new DPF and get the ECU sorted so it’s ‘legal’ again haha.

As above really. Do they need to ‘coded’ to the engine? If so, is this something that can be done through Techstream? I don’t really want to fit it until I have all the info. Thanks its for an IS220D

Hi, did you ever find out which actuator was which? I still haven’t sorted this problem haha

The amount of times I hear this at work! 😂 as for the problem of backfeeding other systems. A simple diode in the right place should stop this. Make sure the poles are the right way round though or you’ll get absolutely nothing on you’re LED 😉

Ok, I’ll do that tonight. Would having the egr blanked off have an effect on that sensor do you know at all? Mum also having a slight smoke issue but I’m sure that’s down to the 5th injector and having no dpf

Well now I’m absolutely sure it’s the wastegate I’ll start fault finding. first plan is to get it fail again then unplug the vacuum hose and see it’s pulsing 12v at the plug. Causing the vacuum to open and close

So the actuator that is at 45 degrees is the wastegate. And that is the one opening and closing when I get the fault. Interesting

Thanks guys, should keep me busy for a bit. I have the techstream in order I’m just waiting for it to turn up. I’ll keep you updated

Well if anything it’s a new avenue to go down. when the car loses power it won’t even rev above 3000 RPM! Where can I find the SCV on this car or is this where I have to take it to a mechanic...

The car failed on me as was getting fuel, the wastegate actuator was the one moving. I’m intrigued by this. Would I get any other symptoms? The car does take a good 3-4 seconds to start up when cold, then over revs for a few seconds before idling normally

never had an engine management light

So it’s definately not the wastegate. It failed on me just then so while the engine was running, the actuator arm was down, I disconnected the vacuum and it shot straight up, I then connected it and it moved straight down again. So it can’t be stuck. i think you’re right, I need the techsteam data

okay, nothing was done with this as far as I am aware, but seeing as though the EGR is blanked, I could disconnect this? It uses the same air feed as the wastegate vacuum valve. So maybe because this cooling actuator is constantly opening and closing it’s reducing the vacuum input (or lack of) on the wastegate? I maybe talking nonsense too 😂 it also seems to start playing up when the engine is at operating temperature. Reading about these cooler egr coolers they only kick in at operating temperature?

Yes haha! but I originally thought this was the wastegate. And this is the actuator that is stable until the car fails then it keeps opening and closing. So I’m trying to figure out what that actuator is?

Okay, so the mysterious valve on the right goes to the first actuator you can see in that picture (what I mistook for the wastegate) and this is the one that keeps opening and closing when the car fails, I have noticed it only fails when the car is up to temperature. the valve on the left (the one I tested last night) does go to the wastegate. The wastegate opens and closes if you pinch the vacuum pipe and let it go so I’m sure that is working correctly

There are 2 diaphragms with actuators down there. Both pipes leading to them. I am assuming one is the wastegate? So what’s the other

I am definitely confused, my understanding is the one on the right in the picture controls the wastegate. In that case I have got those pipes the wrong way round according to our pictures. I have the metal heat guard off so I can see the back off the turbo. 2 second I’ll go and take pictures...

So my findings for today, embarrasingly last night I was looking at the wrong vacuum valve and I believe I was looking at the one for the variable veins in the turbo? Which would explain the results I was getting So after finding the right valve, I unplugged it and blew through it, air coming out the filter. Connecting it to 12v and blew through, air coming out the other vacuum pipe. So it seems to be working. However I drove the car with it unplugged and could tell no difference (turbo kicking in as normal) and I had no error codes displayed, but I did with the other vacuum valve. Surely this isnt normal? I am getting a resistance across the valve with my multimeter. interestingly enough though, since I unplugged it and starting messing around I can’t get the car to fail again. I have added a picture because I’m not entirely sure I have the vacuum hoses in the right configuration, if someone could confirm this I would be grateful! And thanks for all the input guys!

Well I work Avionics, so anything with an electrical input really (radars to lights and even weapons systems on occasion) it comes in handy as my other car is A heavily modified 1992 mini Mayfair. And as you can guess I’m constantly fiddling with that too, but again it has no turbo haha!

Yeah I’m measuring 12 ohms across the valve. Which is about right according to your picture earlier. I hadn’t disconnected any of the vacuum lines I just unplugged it. I haven’t finished playing with it yet. I pinched the vacuum hose and it slowed down the wastegate actuator. I’ll disconnect the line to it tomorrow when it stops raining. Im an aircraft engineer by trade but they generally don’t have turbos 😂

You may be on to something here, ive had it off and cleaned plug terminals. Had no way to check It with battery power at work. But I’ve put it back on and it took a while to fail but it did eventually. I even swapped around the vacuum lines and it failed instantly. Whilst it was still failed and with the wastegate opening and closing on idle I unplugged the vacuum valve with no difference? So maybe for whatever reason it just creating a vacuum after a certain period of time. ( maybe temperature related?) ill order a second hand one off eBay and see if it makes a difference! thank for the input I had no idea where the vacuum valve was on this.

I’m leaning towards a wastegate problem now. It doesn’t move when idling before my problem and then as soon as this problem starts the wastegate is constantly opening and closing on idle. 85BD1352-42B5-4E39-8D47-EA8B3C3343B5.MOV

yeah It’s constantly opening and closing at idle. That link was a video of the wastegate but it wouldn’t upload. I’m just worried that If I take it into Lexus they’ll notice the DPF and EGR and probably me charge me to have it all put back back together the way it supposed to be.

4D385A7E-0BF2-4E0D-A2DC-AAD4E7FAE5EE.MOVSo I’ve just checked my wastegate and sprayed WD-40 and worked it to be on the safe side. i have noticed that when idling the wastegate is opening and closing constantly. Should it do this?