Ball Joint - Is This Causing My Problems with Pic

grantwils · October 10, 2010

I've had a number of problems with the Mrs Lexus but think I *might* have found part of the problem - my question is... how much can I blame on the ball joint?

The car is an IS200 2001 with just over 80k miles. I replaced both drop links, all discs and all pads within 3000 miles.

There has been a clunking noise over potholes in the road and I haven't been able to find the cause. I also thought I had warped discs but a couple of people suggested it might be a problem with the suspension/ball joints causing the steering to pulsate/throb which is emphasised under breaking. I noticed that the steering wheel seems to pulsate a bit although it's not very noticeable.

I jacked the car up again and had a good look/feel around all the linkages and ball joints then came across this...

^^^^ Look what happens when I give it a squeeze

That looks like a knackered ball joint to me for the simple reason that it looks a bit wrong.

So could this be causing the pulsating/throbbing which is emphasised under breaking as well as the knocking noise over potholes?? Or, is it likely that I'm going to replace the ball joints and still have some symptoms? Do I need to look deeper?

Nothing else seemed to be wrong until I squeezed the bit in the pic and it oozed grease. No excessive play or anything anywhere.

Edit: Just realised that I might be wrong (shows how little I know). After reading this >> http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=44611 << post it seems the grease is escaping from the track rod end where it meets the lower control arm, rather than the ball joint. Maybe this isn't as simple as I thought.

TigerFish · October 11, 2010

Might be worth checking the slide pins on the caliper. with the wheel off, give the caliper a thump with the ball of your hand, if it clunks, you could need a re-grease/renew of the slide pins. There is a link to a tutorial I did on my GS slide pins in my signature which may help.

In itself, there doesn't look to be an issue with the track rod end. The grease looks nice and clean still and I would expect to get some ouze out if you squeeze the gator/boot, especially if it has been well packed with grease.

grantwils · October 11, 2010

Might be worth checking the slide pins on the caliper. with the wheel off, give the caliper a thump with the ball of your hand, if it clunks, you could need a re-grease/renew of the slide pins. There is a link to a tutorial I did on my GS slide pins in my signature which may help.

In itself, there doesn't look to be an issue with the track rod end. The grease looks nice and clean still and I would expect to get some ouze out if you squeeze the gator/boot, especially if it has been well packed with grease.

Are you talking about the slide pins which hold the caliper to the torque plate? I know these are screwed and need replaced - didn't think this would be causing the clunking. Would this also explain the throbbing brakes?

TigerFish · October 11, 2010

Might be worth checking the slide pins on the caliper. with the wheel off, give the caliper a thump with the ball of your hand, if it clunks, you could need a re-grease/renew of the slide pins. There is a link to a tutorial I did on my GS slide pins in my signature which may help.

In itself, there doesn't look to be an issue with the track rod end. The grease looks nice and clean still and I would expect to get some ouze out if you squeeze the gator/boot, especially if it has been well packed with grease.

Are you talking about the slide pins which hold the caliper to the torque plate? I know these are screwed and need replaced - didn't think this would be causing the clunking. Would this also explain the throbbing brakes?

Yup, those are the ones. If the pins are dry, you will have a metal pin banging against a metal torque plate, so a clunking will be heard.

If the slide pins or calipers are seized, then they may be binding and causing a disc to overheat. This can cause vibration/throbbing. One way to check is to take the car out for a run and after a decent journey with braking involved, feel the centre of each wheel. If any are signicantly warmer than the rest, then they would be the ones to check the pins/calipers on first as it would indicate more heat being generated in that brake.

grantwils · October 11, 2010

Thanks for your help with this. I think it'll be the first thing I test next time I get a chance to get underneath it.

I've been quoted the following prices by Lexus new main dealer in Glasgow...

Sliding pin £8.09 ea

Bush £3.42 ea

Boot £2.21 ea

I'm also going to replace the springs & shims which were looking a bit sorry for themselves when I changed the discs/pads. I've been quoted the following prices from the same main dealer so I'm hunting online for less expensive replacements.

Shims £30.72

Springs & Sliders £60.70

I think I'm also going to replace the brake dust covers on the front as mine are very rusted and feel like they're about to fall off. Been quoted £19.42 ea.

Will update on progress. All prices above are plus VAT in case anyone is wondering.

Does anyone know if you can re-grease the ball joints and track rod ends to prolong their life?

grantwils · October 23, 2010

Might be worth checking the slide pins on the caliper.

It looks like you hit the nail on the head, or should that say slide-pin?

On both sides the 'main' slide-pin, i.e. the one with the bush, was knackered. The 'sub' slide-pin was fine and just got a quick tidy up with a wire brush. All four dust boots were replaced for good measure. It's fixed the annoying knocking noise I've had since I got it. Just to make sure I drove up and down the most potholed farm track I could find several times and heard nothing untoward.

I'm extremely grateful for your help on this Mr Fish. I don't understand why it's never been diagnosed before by any of the mechanics that have checked it. The best bit was it took about 45 mins and cost less than £25 from a main dealer!