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steve2006

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Posts posted by steve2006

  1. 21 hours ago, Malc1 said:

    remembering a few years back when i took myself off for a glorious month touring thru' Spain and Portugal, then home back thru' France but not before the Customs Border Force guy leaving Spain had emptied out my boot and all car innards looking for  .........  drugs I guess !

    He was most peeved when i refused to load it all back into my car and made him do it  ......  the bugger 🤣

    Malc

    Funny story here…some friends of ours have a villa in Spain and they take their UK registered car on the ferry and then drive down. At the Spanish border they were pulled in for an inspection and the custom official was delighted to find a 40” LCD TV in the boot knowing that taxes would have to be paid on it. Apparently his face dropped like a stone when a Spanish purchase receipt was waved in his face. 😀

    • Haha 1
  2. Hi Craig and welcome to the LOC.

    The fuel pump should be fed with a constant 12 Volts supply when running under load.

    I would check the B+ incoming supply to the fuel pump relay and then check the output voltage to the pump both of which should be at full Battery voltage.

    I would suspect either a faulty relay or a bad connection to it, the pins are known for corrosion issues.

    The basic diagram below shows the power routing to the pump.

    I’m not sure if there is another relay the same in the fusebox which you could try swopping over to see if it cures the fault or you could strap the B+ connection to the FP connection in the diagnostic socket to TEMPORARILY bypass the relay.

    If you need further help please ask

    IMG_1618.png

    • Like 1
  3. Firstly what was the current draw shown on the clamp meter?
    With that amount of current and reversed polarity we are looking at open circuits rather then short circuits, the ECU may have protection but this is generally just a series diode which would have been easily overcome by the current.

    When you say “no other fuses I can see are blown” there are 4 fuse boxes in this car all of which need checking with a multimeter.

    You will also need a power distribution diagram showing what goes to which fuse and where from there.

    The video below is just the beginning of the diagnosis I’m afraid and a factory Electrical workshop manual another on the list.

     

     

  4. My 2004 Toyota Celsior (LS430) had fortunately been swopped out onto springs/struts before I purchased it from a fellow LOC member who used a Strutmasters kit from the USA.

    With regular wheel arch jet washing they still look as new and provide a comfortable but firm footed ride.

    I am so happy with this car given the price I paid and the money spent on it prior to purchase which also included the cam belt change I basically got the car for nothing!

    • Like 1
  5. Hi Emilian and welcome to the LOC.

    You mention the replacement seats are from a UK spec car and your profile says Kerry which I assume is ROI?
    Were the replacement seats “ plug and play” I.e. same sockets as the old ones?
    Airbag looms and connectors are always yellow for easy identification and warning.

    You really need a code reader to confirm it is the seat airbags that have triggered the warning light and you can also reset the system with this.

    Switching the ignition on with disconnected airbags can flag a code also.

    Given the SRS is a safety feature I would not recommend attempting to bypass any part of it with “resistors”

    A word of warning ….don’t start disconnecting or reconnecting any airbag connectors unless you have disconnected the car Battery and then waited at least 15 minutes. They have a back up system and the last thing you want is an unexpected deployment of an airbag in your face!

  6. Hi J and welcome to the LOC.

    Normally there should be no warning lights illuminated when the engine is running, with just the ignition on the Battery light will be on and then go out when the engine is started same with the check engine light.

    The airbag light on the top of the right side of the instrument cluster should come on then go out after a few seconds.

    You also mention the brake warning light is this on or off when the engine is running?
     

    The transmissions rarely have problems and I’ve never heard of a timing chain failure on these engines with regular servicing of oil and filter.

    You can download the owner’s manual via the link below

    https://www.lexus.co.uk/owners/about-my-lexus/manuals

    Also be aware that you need to use Super Unleaded petrol in this car because of the type of fuel injection system.

    Any other questions feel free to ask.

  7. Just been looking into this more and it appears there are 2 types of Caliper (probably solid or vented discs).

    One type has a separate carrier bracket ( I think for solid discs) and the other seems to have the bottom slide pin screwed directly into the hub, if this is the case with yours and the pin has sheared in the hub it going to need drilling out and the remains removed without damaging the threads.

     

     

    IMG_1554.png

    IMG_1553.jpeg

  8. So hopefully you’ll get away with new carrier brackets (hopefully the carrier to hub bolts aren’t seized).

    OEM are around £100.00 a side, aftermarket £30.00 and seized secondhand don’t bother.

    Also looks like there’s no shim kit fitted?

    I would imagine the slide pins seized due to lack of grease, the lower ones sheared off during removal attempts and out came the zip ties.

    Have a read of the link

     

  9. Hi Joseph and welcome to the LOC.

    I’ve seen bodges in my time but that takes first prize!
     

    Was this a private sale or dealer ? If the latter I would be straight back there asking questions!
     

    It’s not very clear from the pictures but you say the top bolt was in but the bottom replaced with zip ties?
    Is the lower calliper slide sheared in the carrier bracket or just missing?


     

    Apologies that I have more questions than answers but need more information to help you.

    • Like 1
  10. Hi James and welcome to the LOC.

    Nice choice with the IS300h, at 10 years old still in its prime 😀

    Feel free to post up a few pictures of the car.

    As for your virtual garage I’ll have the same please although I do already have a low mileage JDM LS430.

    • Thanks 1
  11. Hi Adomas and welcome to the LOC.

    Personally I wouldn’t fit them and they probably wouldn’t even align with the studs being 2.4mm out.

    ”Wobble nuts” and wheels aren’t a good proposition.

    You could get hub adaptors but again I wouldn’t simply on safety grounds, I like to know my wheels are secure and the correct type of nuts are torqued to 76 lb/ft

     

    • Like 1
  12. When I worked for a large utility company, their fleet insurance costs became so high they decided to “Self insure” so basically they covered any claims themselves and driver training helped minimise those.

    Obviously that needs a fairly decent fund probably in the region of a multiple rollover Euro millions lottery win so basically we remain at the mercy, profit targets and shareholder dividends of mainstream insurers.

    If mine increases dramatically next renewal when I also get my free bus pass the car will go and I’ll take full advantage of said bus pass with taxis used as needed which will still work out cheaper than than the grand plus a year it costs to run the car.

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