steve2006

Hi Pedro and welcome to the LOC. Try Paul Frost he breaks LS400s https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/lexussparesdirect

Picture 44, torch is missing, I’m out!

I wonder if they follow the same style of announcements as most TV competitions? ”In no particular order……..the Lexus dealer leaving the competition tonight is”……………………………………………….zzz…………………………..

The older you become the greater the amount of black tie occasions you attend.

I’ve never been able to insure my car with LV as they only insure green cars, my last one was silver and the present one blue.

The replacements are going to be “New old stock” so having been stuck on the shelf for 20 odd years they are then brought into service. The internal seals have also not moved for the same period of time and must have deteriorated then “priming” causes further damage by movement. I think we all know about LS400 bonnet struts loosing pressure over time and I would think the same applies here.

Most of the other Lexus models wheels will fit except the CT200h and the LS600h which have a different bolt pattern PCD. The things to check are they obviously need to be 5 stud with a PCD of 114.3 which is equivalent to 4.5” imperial so some Chrysler and other wheels also fit. The bore needs to be 60.1mm to fit over the hubs but anything over this size can be reduced to this with spigot rings. Offset is also important into how far the wheels stick in or out and the normal range is 42-47. If going aftermarket you may also have to replace the type of wheel nuts to cone types. Link below gives examples. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/lexus/sc/2004/

If you don’t mind a bit of DIY Jeff and have access to a rotary wire brush and drill it won’t hurt to clean it up and apply some of the stuff mentioned by Linas. As he suggests it will hopefully keep that structural and possibly terminal MOT failure off the sheet for a few more years.

Oh crap! I didn’t watch it all, I’ve now hidden it, always watch the complete video.

If it is just surface rust then removal of the rust and rust prevention treatment should suffice. For steel to rust the primary ingredients are moisture H2O and Oxygen O2 which combines to form FE2O3 Rust. Anti rust treatments if applied correctly inhibit both moisture and oxygen reaching the steel thus preventing the rust from forming. The problem then is any gaps or cracks in the treatment allows the rusting to recommence except now it creeps under the treatment unseen so requires regular monitoring and remedial action. The biggest issue is structural rust in sills is when it eats through the metal from the inside out due to the box section design, this is no longer surface rust as a poke with a screwdriver or an official MOT hammer will soon reveal

I was given a VW Polo once when my LS400 was accident damaged. Once I got the LS back I put the Polo in the boot, took it to the local recycling centre and put it in the scrap metal skip.

It’s not fun I’ve done one! OK google “Lexus Main fuse replacement” Then click on “videos” These will show you what to do. Make sure the battery is disconnected first.

I don’t know if they are any good but tools are available on eBay just search “Toyota Air Suspension line remover tool”

Who remembers looking at those pictures in Haynes manuals showing the various states of the spark plugs and comparing those from your own engine which at 40,000 miles was burning a quart of oil per 1000? 😀

Hi Jeff and welcome to the LOC. You mention a remap and intake manifold done ( could you elaborate on the latter as to what was actually done?) Has the EGR valve ever been checked/cleaned/replaced?