Spoony

Normal it may be, but I don't want it like that! It would seem that is is perfectly feasible to mute the rear speakers using the CD changer input on the back of the 13906. I'm gonna have a go when my new socket set turns up so I can get the head unit out! I'll post details of my success (or lack thereof) in due course. ;)

Its been quite wet lately, so it may be worth physically checking the unit and connections for any water penetration. If all looks well, I'd be looking for a sensitivity dial to turn down. :)

No worries! They seem to flicker a bit when first turned on. Is this normal? Seem fine once they've warmed up a little.

Geoffers: I'll be taking the dash apart again to get to the CD changer socket and connect the mute there too (as rear speakers aren't being muted by the Parrot box atm it would seem - thanks reeves1985!), so when I do I'll get some pics and make a note of the colours. Parthiban: Cable ties are available from just about everywhere! A quick googling reveals a bazillion choices. The mic was a doddle to fix - you just need to take off the door rubber (pulls off real easy) and then just poke the wire behind the pillar fascia and roof lining edge. There's plenty of room back there and its easy to do. I do not have a Lexus SatNav - I use TomTom on my pda/phone (which is what the cradle is for above the Parrot!). It would seem that having the Parrot in that location does have a drawback, specifically the lack of GPS signal. I've ordered an external antenna tonight so should be fitting that before the weekend with any luck. I'll let you know if it improves the reception problems! On another note, I received my Xenon HIDs with ballasts yesterday and fitted them last night. It was the cheap £46 quid set off eBay. Fitting was a doddle and the worked fine once I turned the connectors round. Driving home tonight in the dark was an entirely different experience!

The Dunlop 9000 SP (I think) were the recommened tyre by Lexus, which is why I bought another set. I would have put money on a brand new pair of tyres not being the problem but tried it anyway and it worked! I had my problem when driving straight, like you said. Felt like a big gust of wind as the car suddendly lurched a foot to the left or right. Very unnerving too - I thought I had massisve suspension problems or similar! The problem was a lot more noticable/predictable when traversing ruts/grooves and thick painted lines. Pirelli's did the job good. Not cheap tho.

Is it definately the front end that shifts and not the back end when going over grooves in the road or thick line paintings? I had this issue and it ended up being a set of Dunlops on the back. They were close to needing replacement so I purchased a new set of dunlops, only to have the same problem. Put the Pirellis from the front on the back (and vice-versa) and the problem vanished. I will not be buying any more dunlops.

Pics? Why, sure! The audio mute box is secured/hidden behind the head unit. I've already put all that back together and it all looks like standard, so there's no point in showing a pic of that. Here's the ISO adapter connected to the Parrot cabling and all nicely cable tied up ready for hiding. Here's the ISO adapter connected to the amp behind the glove box. Brought the cabling around the front so it's easier to tidy. Now the cable is hidden behind the dash, you'd hopefully not notice it was there at a glance. The glove box opens and closes nicely without catching anything. I fed the mic cable from behind the head unit (where the Parrot mute box is), behind the steering column, up the right pillar facia, along the roof lining at the front and stuck the supplied mic clip to the rear view mirror mounting. Proper job. Only the tiniest bit of cable protudes before it heads up into the roof lining, never to be seen again. I've mounted the Parrot display on the empty middle button blanking plate inbetween the headlight angle control and the fog light switch. Both switches although obscured are still accessible. This was the best place for me to mount it as my PDA cradle got in the way if I mounted it any higher... I could have fed the screen cable through the blanking plate, but this meant altering the blanking plate more than I wanted to. I'd already fed the wire through the dash to behind the head unit anyway and didn't fancy re-doing that again. I think this is acceptable, if not completely ideal. And voilla - it works! Critiques and comments welcome ;)

Well, I did it. The wire colours on the back of the head unit weren't as described above, but a few tests with a mutimeter revealed which wires I needed. A couple of blade connectors later it was all working! Mute works a treat and the people I've called report good voice quality! All excess cable is now cable tied, neat and secure. Looks like a factory fit! So, all in all a success - thank you all for your assistance. Expect me back here soon when the Xeon & ballast set I ordered off ebay don't work. ;)

It would actually be easier if i just spliced into the cable at the back of the head unit (as thats where the audio mute box is located), so I'll give that a go tonight I think. Thanks for your help guys - I'll let you know how I get on!

Ok, just been out to the car (thank god for garages) and got to the connector on the back of the amp. Unhooked the connector and yes it matches the connectors on my cable. Hooked it all up and tested. Audio all fine through the CD player (all speakers tested) but no output on the Parrot. Completely dead. Unplugged the cable from the back of the amp again and reseated the connection. Still no power. Investigated the cable a little further and it would seem that the power cables on the loom ISO adapter are cut before they get to the amp connector. Doh! Checked more and it does seem that the mute cable is connected, so I'm gonna leave it in situ before I lose any more skin back there. So my way forward is to hook up the power from an alternative source. Parthiban's guide shows that he (you) connected this up to the lighter socket. Great idea, I'm handy with a soldering iron so this shouldn't be a problem, however I have two power wires - one is a 12v permanent feed and the other a 12v ignition feed. It seems to want me to hook both up. Obviously I take the 12v ignition feed from the lighter socket, but where shall I wire the other 12v permanet feed from?

Yeah I've read your walkthrough a couple of times over the last few days, but its never clicked. I think it just did though! I've been expecting to be messing around with the connectors at the back of the head unit, where as I should be messing around with the connectors at the back of the amp. This has been a mental block here I think as despite reading your walkthrough several times that possibility has never actually sunk in. Am I right with this train of thought? Maybe the lead I bought WILL work if the connectors at the amp tally. Is it much of a pain to get the glovebox out?

No, I didn't buy the autoleads part, I bought a parrot branded Toyota part that someone suggested might work. Do you have a link to the cable you bought perchance? Thanks in advance!

Hi Guys, I thought I'd done my homework and bought all the bits I needed, but after trying to fit my new Parrot 3400 LS-GPS device into my 2003 IS200 Sport with a 13906 head unit (externally amplified system) I couldn't be more wrong. I was prepared for a struggle. I was worried I'd damage the dash getting to the head unit. I was concerned I wouldn't be able to hide the cabling for the mic or find a decent place to locate the Parrot's screen. Nope, these were all solved easily! The ISO loom adapter I bought to fit between the head unit and the Parrot had the wrong connectors on it. Seems the adapter I bought was for a different flavour Lexus head unit. Further digging for the right connector has proven fruitless. I've PM'd a few of you earlier but impatience has gotten the best of me, hence my post. So can someone help me with a way forward for this? I've found many answers but none of them seem applicable. It would seem to me that there is no way to easily connect the two system without hard-wiring them in. I'd rather not do this unless there is no other method. Then again, I can't find what the pinouts for the connectors on the 13906 are anyway... A challenge then. Can anyone help?