DaKa

Thanks for the private messages. You must appreciate that I am ignorant of AC pipework and terminology. I can confirm that the rear pipes have not been removed, but I don't know where I could see 'six pipes because you once had two T-pieces'. It's good to know that the blanking should been done on the rear pipes after the T pieces. But again, I don't know where the T pieces are and does that mean towards the front or back? If Lexus say blanking is a common job when the rear pipes leak it would be good to have a write up or diagram that shows the pipes before and after as I have tried above. Any takers?

Not hearing more, I checked some stuff out on Youtube and it appears that my pipes should have simply been blanked off separately and not connected. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz2obM-laOA I know the car in this example isn't the same, but the problem on this youtube is and I can only imagine the plumbing is the same.. so I'm back to get the gas removed, connection blanked off and regassed - let's hope I'm right this time and don'e have to reverse things back.

As per diagram and heading - rear AC pipes disconnected.

Replies appreciated - albeit contrasting. I have the distinct feeling that the pipes should have been simply blanked off rather than connected. If Stuart's AC is working on the front (and I presume that it is) then my mechanic connecting the 10mm to the 8mm pipes under the passenger seat to create a U-Bend flow would appear wrong! Expert comment sought before I take it back. Thxs

Picking up on the wording here - perhaps my mechanic mate has made a gaff? The AC pipes that run from front to rear, I presume one delivering (10 mm) insulated pipe and the other returning to the front AC (8 mm) not insulated, instead of being capped of they were joined as per diagram. I thought that a loop was required - am I wrong?

Indeed it was the F1 guy that fiddled with the controls and switched the oscilating fans off - Doh! I do however have a lack the kind of cold air I would expect through the vents, it's more of an autumn draft, but definitely colder than the ambient temperature - so something must be working. It's as if there is still a lack of refrigerant - they only inserted enough per the pront AC spec 650, should they have put 900+? Does anyone have a novice guide of things and were/how to check, or will I need to seek out an AC specialist and cough up some more cash? Thxs

Aaahh, the guy at F1 did mention that he took 10 mins fiddling with th climate control settings. I will check this a sap. Thxs

Like the sound of that - I will look closer later this week at how the grille on the rear shelf removes. Didn't have my glasses last time. Tried left to right, front to back movements but didn't work - does it just pop straight up perhaps?

Thanks for the information that I'm not alone in re-routing the AC flow and disabling the rear. This lets me know that there are no sensors or things that would cause the AC not to blow cold. I guess it could be a fuse - could this have been done during the regassing. Should I take it back to them? They mentioned it was hard to reach (heat from the engine) the low pressure pipe under the bonnet and waited 20 minutes before doing a pressure check - could something have been inadvertently pulled out and disconnected? The mechanic who spliced the pipes for me was underneath the car nowehere near the engine bay and with the ignition off, so I don't see how he could have affected anything. As mentioned, prior to today, even with no gas in the AC, if you set the AC to max cold and Auto the airflow outlets to the driver/passenger in the centre swivelled from side to side. This is now not happening. Do you know if there is a fuse specific for this? It certainly sounds like the compressor starts (notable change of tone from the engine when Auto AC engaged) - I'm rather ignorant of AC so need an idiots guide otherwise I'll have go back to my mechanic - awkward!

I had the misfortune of some damage to my LS430 AC pipe just above the near side drive shaft/differential. This was caused by a stupid local non Lexus mechanic that didn't put the drive shaft nuts/washers back in with enough torque or 20p worth of lock-tite metal glue when the rear bearing hub assembly was replaced. The washer threw out when the nuts came llose and damaged the AC pipe badly - what a costly mistake and as it happended 9-12 months after the job was done I had no easy recourse to the garage. It is a pig to replace, so my friend mechanic using a splice/lok kit that I purchased dispensed with the rear AC (as access to pipes was impossible) and instead completed the AC loop by joining the AC pipes somewhere underneath the car between the near side front and back passenger seats. Great I thought - who neads rear AC. However, it went straight to Formula One for a regas and they confirmed no leaks present and filled up the front AC as per specification 650 ml? Sadly, no cold air, but not leaks either - so what's going on? Normally, the air vents when on max cold previously moved from side to side as standard, but now they don't move at all making me think it could be something electrical. I didn't check the AC after the pipes were spliced, so now don't know if the probelm was caused by the disabling of the rear AC or, something during the gas recharge. Any ideas of what to try?

It does seem pointless buying a new foam rubber suround and glue when it just needs sticking back down denerally to the metal frame. When you say you did it in situ, do you mean without moving the rear seats and taking the speaker out? or did you simply cut through the outer shelf casing?

Thanks for the confirmation that a 180 swap would work. However, although I feel Tanya's website was wrong and at best mis-leading, I have agreed to pay the replacement cost £14 because 1) Even with the extra cost it is still £20 cheaper than going to ATS/KwikFit and 2) When I ordered the battery I was abraad and relied on the provider getting it right, rather than getting someone to check under the bonnet which was not the right thing to do. I've told Tanya to update their website as all LS430 (and by the sound of it LS400) should have the +/ve front left. Seemingly, they had sold 'one' battery with the +/ve front right and as it was not returned they assumed it was the correct polarity for the car. Maybe it was the battery you bought? ;-) Rgds

Thanks, I did a bit of independent research and found that indeed, the +/ve should be front left nearest to the centre of the car. Unfortunately, I'm not at home to check for myself, but it appears the leads will reach if flipped 180 - but I prefer to get a replacement instead. The battery suppliers own website offers 5 choices of batteries all correctly showing the +/ve from left. Why their offering for the same model lexus on ebay had it the other way around I can only guess. They probably have the left hand drive specification.

I tried using exactly this to keep the baterry charged as my LS430 is seldom used. It had the opposite effect connected through the cigarette lighter as the battery went flat quicker it seemed - e.g. The car must feel the lighter is on. I did find however that it worked if you connect the charger directly to the battery (mine had an alternative crocodile clip connectors). However, this means leaving the car with a small wire out of the corner of the bonnet and into the passenger door. Okay for when left in a garage or long term carpark, but not practical to leave it connected while driving regularly.

I ordered a battery for my old LS430 Lexus 2001 'Y' plate from ebay (£76 free delivery). I've used the asme company before 'Tanya' and their service is excellent. The Tanya website that I purchased the battery from did not require me to select a battery. It listed the car model/year and then selected the battery required. I'm working abroad at the moment and can't check things for myself. The old/existing battery has the terminal connections towards the front of the car. I have someone fitting the new battery for me, however, they have advised me that compared to the old battery the terminals are the wrong way around e.g. looking at the front of the battery with the terminals nearest to you, the +/ve needs to be on the left hand side, but it is on the right! Are there 2 standard for LS430? Either Tanya have supplied the wrong battery or someone in the past has switched the battery 180 degrees and then stretched the leads? Unfortunately, the person fitting my new battery didn't think to check whether the leads would still reach if it was turned 180, so I'm asking whether you could tell me on your car how your battery terminals are connected? Should I get the battery returned even if the leads do reach, or get them to send an alternative for my vehicle with the +/-ve sides switched? Any photo images would be welcome. Thxs

You may be interested to know that any rear whining noise from your LS430 is almost certainly related to the rear bearing hub. I spent a while reading about this issue and in short because I wasn't sure what/where the noise was coming from. Basically, if you coast along a quiet road with your car in neutral and you turn the car to the left or right, if the pitch of the whine changes it is a certain indication that you need to replace the rear bearing hub assembly. This is because as you turn the car you lift the weight from one side to the other changing the forces on the bearings. If like me you are put off by the cost associated with such a replacement (I delayed replacement for nearly 18 months), don't worry as it can be managed within a small budget. I imported a pair of replacement rear bearing hubs from USA at a cost of $140 plus $60 delivery. Unfortunately there was an extra £30 custom charges to be paid. I found a competent Lexus specialist garage nearby to replace the part supplied by me for just 2 hours labour (£120) + VAT. The car is now back to a wisper rather than an annoying whine that was getting worse. I now have a spare unused rear hub assembly now that may help another member with the same issue being sold on ebay. Contact me direct if you are nearby (CM13) if you like. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-LS430-2001-2006-Rear-Hub-Bearing-/251097114084? Good luck if you have the same issue.

So, is it the whole unit that needs replacing?

LS400 1996 Model. Has anyone encountered a problem where their CD/Radio etc works, but the display in the cabin dashboard is blank. Is there an option to turn the display off on these older models? I know you can do this on the LS430. Daka

Thanks for the feedback. I think I will go ahead and buy these new wheels/tyres deal as the cost of refurbishing is circa £200 plus. If I didn’t have 2 x brand new Dunlop Sports on the front I would buy immediately. I take note of the comment about waiting for spring 2009 – Pics will follow if I proceed.

Having upgraded my LS400 to the LS430 - I have noticed that the indicator arm rarely switches off having rounded a corner. Is this a fault on the later models, or, is it just my LS430?

I am considering buying new wheels/tyres for my 2001 LS430. They are supplied with performance tyres fitted/balanced, locking wheels nuts and a fitting kit to your door cirac £630. Has any one fitted the same and can you recommend. I am concerned at the size difference front/rear? I guess I am gaining an extra inch width at the rear. Manufacturer: Sakura Brand: Cruize Fronts 235/40/18 8.5 x 18 Rears 265/35/18 9.5 x 18 Described as Lexus Soarer Supplied by DP Motoresports - Ayreshire Item No . 140270593574