chokit

ive got am aem fic and i want to make a patch cable for it as aem dont offer one and i dont really want to be hacking apart my engines harness. i have found the connectors and reletive part numbers for the female connectors, simples, as that are all listed in the workshop manual. it doesnt list the male as they are not used on the car. i do not even know if they exist as a part i can get without finding a doner IS300 ecu to remove them from. the female plug part numbers are as follows:- plug E11 - 90980-12142 plug E12 - 90980-12146 plug E13 - 90980-12143 plug E14 - 90980-12145 plug E15 - 90980-12144 will do a write up when im done, also let you know when its all in and been tuned, and thanks for your help.

thats strange, under the engine control tab on the one im looking at i have the choices of LHD and RHD, none of this what year it is. very strange...

i have sitting infront of me an aem fic 30-1910, which is a very useful little black box. its a piggy back ecu that as got more functions than i need, but at the price was not worth passing up. it can control the fule map (both increase and decrease the fuel), can control the TPS, 2 O2 sensors, retard the ignition timing, control the vvti, injector response time as well as some data logging facilities. The problem that i am having with it is not the FIC, its the is300 work shop manual. the car has a MAF sensor, i know this. i can see it when i lift the bonnet, the problem is i can not find it in the wiring diagrams and i can not connect the FIC properly, it wouldnt be such a problem apart from i want to run some boost at some point and need to be able to control the MAF so i can run the map off the built in MAP sensor. Can anyone help me out here? point me to the diagrams i need. ths is the manual ive been using thanks.

yes it can be done, imo its not worth it for the ammount of effort that goes into it. yuo need to take apart the cd player then wire the individual cruise control switches to the buttons you want them to control. alot of effort and only recommended if your good at that sort of thing. alot of work for something that saves you moving your arm 1 foot every time you want to change the track.

dont know what your mans talking about, mines an auto, dont get anything like what hes describing when it shifts.

the downpipe finaly turned up on wednesday and is now on the car, only been off the road for 2 1/2 months. has made such a differance to the car. first off then noise, it is alot louder than before, even with the hks hi-power silent its quite loud. has a nice deep note at tick over, realy nice burble on the over run and a kinda turbo rasp when you rev it. power is up, enough to get the back end spinning thru first and second on a dry road. spinning in first in the damp at around 1/3 throttle. has the torque to slide the back end with the traction control on. also feels like its knocked around 1/2 second off the 0-60 time. have to be a bit more carful on the throttle in the wet as ive found out the hard way, back end has been trying to get away from me when accelerating a bit early. just need to change the way i drive it a bit. top speed (completly hyerthetical of course) on a stretch of dual carrage way after work managed 145 where it would normally hit around 130, gets to 130 now quicker and with alot less hastle, and touching on 110 by the top of an uphill on ramp where it used to hit 90. all hyperthetical you understand. the down sides, petrol usage, driving usualy the mpg differance is not really noticable, put your foot down and it trys downing the tank in one, went thru around £7 in 3 1/2 miles of dual carrige way. other problem, which is kinda funny in the short term, when at temp on idle the whole car shakes due to the lack of back pressure, like its got a big block peice of american muscle under the hood. hopeing the piggy back ecu will sort that when i get it, just increase the idle a bit.

at 157, the my gps reads 154, only time ive really checked it. (obviously not on uk roads ) more likely you have a bit of a slow gps unit. which one do you have?

is it an auto? if ti is then check the tranny fluid level, if its a bit low theres your problem.

some pikey kids in kings lyn have broken into the workshop where i was having my alloys re-furbed in black and have stolen 2 of them. why steel 2 of a set?

so how do i wire it so that they work as fogs and and brake/rear lights?

i thought that you need a fog light for mot? if you set it up as rear/brake light surly you need another light for the fog? p.s. would love to cut out the "2 in the pink one is the stink" on your bumper and having the glowing hand as the fog light

looks like its a fairly loud system, as fun as it is to make noise, i personaly don't think a loud exhaust suits the lexus' personality. hks hi-power silent is what i have, gives you a bit of a bassy rumble and a bit more when you open it up with out it being intrusive when on your daily drive to work. Ofcourse it all depends on what your going to be doing to the car, if your going to try and turn it into a big power turbo'd sports saloon then a bit more noise would suit it more. i like being able to enjoy my music without having to turn it up. also give it a month or two, save some more money and buy a branded system, you will get better build quality.

to get power out of an n/a car you need to spend alot of money for the same results that a turbo/supercharger would get. alot of what you would do would also be done when going down the forced induction rute i.e. exhaust, induction and mapping. de-cating the car will probably give you the most from one single mod, thats removing all 3 cats. but its going to cost you a fortune in labour because the garage have to take the stering coloum off to get the manifold off. also you can not get the lexus ecu re-mapped, so its a chip/stand alone/piggy back. after that your looking at head work, cams maybe even uping the compression ration and for that sort of money you can get yourself a supercharger.

tom's do a carbon one that should fit well, not sure its worth the cost just for an antenna when i dont listen to the radio anyway. thinking of having it completly removed, nice smooth look. as we all know the devil's in the detail.

well the spacers cost next to nothing. so worth a try.

Would an O2 spacer solve an ECU error related to low catalyst system efficiency on IS200? If so, which of the spacers should I get, or are they all fine? http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=oxygen%20...tpos=&gbr=1 Thanks! to be honest, im waiting to get the car back on the road befor trying to sort that problem, still waiting for the down pipe delivery. been almost 8 weeks now. going to need something as will have no cats at all.

ok, got the manifold on the car, and it fits past the knuckle and all other parts that may have been in the way. secret to getting the old one off/new one on, take the steering shaft off! alot of work but easy if you have the workshop manual to hand. one problem with it, one of the oxygen sensors does not fit on beacuse the hole is located far too close to the bulkhead. im assuming the the lhd would have the same problem. comes with a couple of bolts to blank holes so should be ok after some more tweeking. going to be running a piggy back ecu when i have the time for fitting and mapping. looking at a greddy e-manage ultimate. hopeing to see atlease 270bhp when its set up properly. plus the ecu can swap between 2 maps at a flick of a switch so can have one for power and one for mot. still waiting for the megan racing downpipe to arrive.

ok, got the old mainfold off the car this arvo (what else would i do on christmas eve?) and the new one looks like it will fit on past the stearing rack, only problem is getting it on. i had alot of problems getting the old one off and ended up cutting it in half, obvioulsy i cant do that to the new one. can someone please tell me how to do the job properly, the online workshop manual says: remove the air intake system, unplug the oxygen sensors, undo the 3 bolts between the manifold and down pipe, undo the 2 bolts holding on the bracket then remove bracket, undo the 8 nuts connecting the manifold to the head then lift out of the car. this does not work!!! the orignal manifold has the 2 pre cats in it and is impossible to get it past the slearing rack. am i going to need to pull the engine out?

it should fit all is300, lhd and rhd. megan racing do not know if their down pipe will fit a rhd car, but if the headders is the same for both and so is the exhaust i cant see there being any problem. still waiting for delivery, had a letter from parcel force thismorning saying they have the header and i need to pay the import tax. the down pipe is coming from a uk supplier, who is waiting for a delivery from megan. does any one know how to get the header off the car? as it is being a right son of a b***h.

i normaly run 19s (19x8) on my is300 (off the car at the minute getting refurbed black) i also have a 40mm drop at the front and 45mm drop at the back and have no problems with arch clearance, although the suspension is very stiff. do have to take it slow over speed bumps, around 15mph max.

i have a hks racing suction reloaded, got the supra fitment and took alot of custom fitment.

i want to get my is300 remapped, only thing is that i can not remap the oem ecu. (so ive been told) I was wondering what my options are for this, do i need to get it chipped, get a piggy back ecu or a complete stand alone unit?what would you recommend? do you know any where that can do a good job? thanks.

i have the hks on my is300, it gives a nice beep note without it being intrusive for a daily driver. my induction kit makes alot more noise, its a good set up as far as im concerned. next to no noise when cruising, a bit of a raspy note when accelerating and and almost track car-esk note when you bury your foot. im not sure about the blitz exhaust, but the hks is a strait thru cat back system and did make a difference to the way the car drives. better throttle response with a touch more power.

will definatly need to look at that. thanks for the heads up.

ok, after the problem ive had with my car, and finaly discovering that my exhaust is blocked because one of the pre-cats had fallen apart i thought it must be a sign that i dont need the cats in there any more so here is what ive got comming to me: the headers cost $119 with another $30 for delivery from the US off of ebay. this is a megan racing down pipe, £148 from SPEED CULTURE will let you know about fitment, finish and how the car runs when they arrive,. along with my exhaust, the hks hi-power silent, i will have a straight thru system, will be interesting to see what it does to the noise levels. also anyone know where i can get my car remapped? gotta make the most of it. p.s. the headers are being a right :tsktsk: to get off of the car, any tips? got all the bolts undone, i just cant seem the get them out. thanks.