E910

End result looks good. Fancy a trip to NZ to tidy up my paint work

Bushes are stiffer than factory. It's sometimes referred to as the TRD hard bush kit http://www.trdparts.jp/english/parts_arm-set.html

TRC is for babies, when you grow up you drive with it off

On a serious note, I find TRC more of a hindrance than a help so I always turn it off. I seems to cut in just when you down want it to & I find that more dangerous than letting the rear wheels spin a bit. Oh & less fun :winky:

The IS200 has to be about the easiest car in the world to drive hard, and given the limited power, like its German competitors, really flatters drivers who often believe that at the limit they can detect and control better than TRC. The designers know for certain that such people are rare and exceptional because the speeds etc. for the various conditions are so high that the limit is very sudden. 99.9% of drivers have no hope of correcting as well or as fast as TRC, so something horrible is going to happen. What is really needed is even better TRC. Otherwise heaven help us all if such drivers ever get a powerful car.

On the IS200, if the TRC light stays out, it isn't doing anything and it doesn't affect the throttle response except on "Snow" - so it is the same as being off anyway except in some drivers' minds. If it flicks on briefly, it isn't doing much or for long so won't slow you down, but might help you to stay pointing the right way. If it stays on, it teaches you that the car is beyond the point where the majority can cope; and unless there is a lot of space around, an accident is likely. To learn to drive nearly as well as TRC will let you, you need plenty of practice in wide open spaces plus someone elses' car to wreck. To practice on the open roads is all most people can manage and we can't afford the carnage.

This all fairly obvious and raises the question: Should the driving test include an IQ test? :tsktsk:

I think you're confusing the basic TRC that toyota/lexus use in the Altezza/IS with DSC. All it does is cut power to the rear wheels when it sensors that the rear wheels are spinning faster than they should be. Generally I find it does it at the most inappropriate & dangerous time. No power when you most need most it ain't going to steer you away from that ditch in a hurry. The factory LSD does a better job of controlling traction than TRC will ever do IMO, that & decent tyres.

this is one possible solution to turn TRC of sort of semi permanent but still with the option of having it on

1, find the TRC fuse and pull it out, then solder 2 piece's of wire one to either side of the fuse holder, at the other end of the wire's attach a simple on / off breaker switch ,then on either 1 off the wire's put an in-line fuse just for protection.

sounds to simple to be true but i cant see why it wont work.

leave the switch in the off position and it will just be like having no fuse in the TRC,

(DISCLAIMER DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, ITS NOT TESTED YET)

MMMMMM!!!! this mite not be as easy as i made it sound, Ive just been having a ratchet through the wiring diagram and the TRC appears to be linked in whith the ABS.

See if you can make any sense of these

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...%3Den%26tl%3Dja

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...%3Den%26tl%3Dja

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...%3Den%26tl%3Dja

Something a lot of people forget when getting a aftermarket / TRD LSD is the servicing cost of them. You need to replace the oil every 5000 miles!! Which can soon add up when you have to use the specified TRD oil which ain't cheap.

Like the others have said get a factory Torsen LSD. They're very good.

TRC is for babies, when you grow up you drive with it off

On a serious note, I find TRC more of a hindrance than a help so I always turn it off. I seems to cut in just when you down want it to & I find that more dangerous than letting the rear wheels spin a bit. Oh & less fun :winky:

I am I correct in thinking my S model does not have an amp, it is not the premium sound system as in th SE, also I need to know what the single wire is for to the factory head unit, thanks again guys

This should help http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...mp;#entry686374 & this one for speaker wires http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf

I had the same issue as you when I upgraded to an Alpine head unit. I had no factory amp either so that's not the reason. I've been told the factory unit has it gains preset to sound a certain way compared to an aftermarket unit which is generally set flatter. I'm about to install an aftermarket amp to see what difference that will make to begin with but I have some Rainbow components & Alpine sub to go in so lack of bass wont be an issue after that.

Only problem with the 2JZ 4WD Gita is they only come with a 5 speed auto trans.

If you're doing lots of open road driving then get a RS200-Z or L Edition. They make 210PS(154kW) @7600rpm in 6MT form & 200PS(147kW) in 5AT.

See http://www.net-park.co.jp/etc/toyota/carim...002/7002-15.jpg

Rear wheel drive will handle a lot better than 4WD & not to mention be a lot more fun :winky: The 2JZ makes 220PS(162kW) But with the extra weight of the engine & drivetrain it won't be any quicker than the RS200 3SGE. Not to mention you'll get taxed more.

AS200 1G-FE = FAIL. (Sorry to offend anyone) but 160PS(118kW) just doesn't cut the mustard in this day & age.

What year Altezza are you looking at? Pre 2002 definitely don't have OBDII.

Work VS-XX are very similar to the BBS LM http://www.workwheelsusa.com/product.php?c...26&wheel=75

They might be easier to find in 5x114.3 as most FR Japanese cars run this pcd

BKR6EY is the best copper NGK plug for your 1UZ-FE.

You should really try iridium. We run them in the factory LPG Ford Falcons over here. BKR6EIX is he part number you want. They're far superior to standard & platinum plugs. If you can't find them you could also try Denso IK20 iridium.

Do yu or any1 kno why my car could be running soo funny cuz wen it ober heated it steamed out all the water inda motor thru the coolant box..now its running real tired and slow

Wat could this be ?

Sounds like you've cooked it mate. I'd suspect a blown head gasket at minimum

Take it to a mechanic & get it checked out asap. You shouldn't be letting it get that hot. It could cause permanent damage to the engine.

Your problem could be something as simple as the radiator cap needs replacing or more involved like water pump or radiator etc.

Have a look at the wiring diagram in this thread http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...mp;#entry686374

May shed a bit of light on your problem.

The only thing you have done wrong is fit a pod filter. Plenty of people have tried it & have gone back to the standard air box. It has something to do with how the air flows over the MAF sensor. Mess this up & you'll have all sorts of problems. The 3SGE has a funny set up & is very sensitive. Looking at yours, you have the MAF sensor way to close to the filter & it will be getting very turbulent air passing over it. If you'd done a bit of research on dedicated Altezza forums you would have found this out already. You might also like to know that you'll make less power with a pod filter than the standard air box anyway. So get yourself a K&N or similar panel filter & be done with it. If you want a bit of induction noise at lower rpm, disconnect the vacuum hose to the flap in the front air intake. This flap is normally shut until about 4500rpm to suppress intake noise. Disconnecting it leaves the flap open all the time. (see attached pic)

While you've got the air box off you should give the MAF sensor & the throttle body a quick clean. This will improve your idle & throttle response.

Sounds pretty normal to me.

Brake pads will outgas and under use may create boundary layer of gas between the pad and the disc hurting braking performance. When you initially press the brake pedal you have to squeeze this gas out before the pad can make contact with the disc. Cross-drilling was created to provide the gas someplace to escape. Although modern brake pads seldom suffer from outgassing problems, water residue may build up after a vehicle passes through a puddle and impede braking performance.

Although with something as important as brakes if in doubt get it check out my a mechanic. It maybe something as simple as your fluid needs changing. According to the service schedule it should be done ever 20,000 miles or 2 years.

Tidy!

Why do people persist in referring to the factory kits as TRD?

This is the ONLY TRD kit. Elegant Sports & Neo Customize Sports (aka Legana) kits are genuine Toyota/Lexus accessories

Thats my whinge of the day of the the way ;)

Just be careful adjusting at the lever end as if you over adjust the shoes will drag. Stupid mechanic did it to mine.

Get the power source from the head unit loom. The Grey wire is the acc. & blue with a yellow strip is constant 12v.

*The bottom half of this guide is for GPS only

"Do U Like My Tyres ?"

> nope, don't like Dunlops, sorry. :o)

i dont pretend to know anything about geo but i do find it strange that it has worn so heavily on the outside, i would expect it to have worn on the inside if it had been knocked out.

Are those your front tyres Lexus2D? I have a similar issue with mine.

Does anyone know what the RMS output per channel is for the factory IS200/Altezza super live sound amp?

Thanks

Ah yeah I got that one back to front. Like you said using 4Ω speakers where 2Ω should be will result in them running quieter.

You'll probably be disappointed with the end results Hogan22a. Spend your money on some decent components for the front & an amp for them if you can stretch the budget. Loud 6x9" are for mugs.

There was a Netz RS200 that had a different grill & front lip. All I've seen are blue. They have blue on black interiors & the engine cover is also blue. They're rarer than hens teeth but.

Sound like it could be the heater tap/valve thats stuffed. It's a common fault on EF-AU Falcons also

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1997_TOYO...ACPZK_8716.html

No JDM models use OBDII until at least '02 onwards. Instead they have a diagnostics port in the engine bay, you bridge a couple of terminals together & it flashes codes via the engine check light in the instrument cluster. A google search will give you all the relevant info you need to do this.