Enright

So you reckon a k&n filter for the air box is better ? YES!

Perhaps a new pollen filter (behind the glovebox) would help.

Sold to the man in black! :-D

Agreed Jomo, the older one looks far more 'OEM' - even better if it has the Lexus logo on the back (but I bet it hasn't)!

I'd like to tag a question onto this too if you don't mind: What's the service interval for gearbox and LSD oil?

Isn't it just bling for bling's sake? 2-3 BHP gain seems to be more trouble than it's worth. What you MAY gain in freer flowing air is potentially lost by sucking in pre-warmed (and therefore less dense) air from above your nice hot exhaust manifolds. Plus it's a mod that your insurers would expect you to declare and could even get arsey about in the event of a claim. I can understand it on a turbo or supercharged car where you're pulling in a lot more air (and you ain't exactly going to hide one of those babies under the standard airbox anyway!), but otherwise surely the K&N insert route is better...? Invisible, cost effective, and slurping in nice dense cold stuff so potentially more bang for your buck.

Scuse me for dragging this off topic a bit, but are headlamp washers an optional extra? It's just that my car has had a bit of a chequered past (in fact I think a previous owner was apprehended by being boxed in against the kerb from 3 sides by Volvo T5's - I sh!t you not)! Anyway, point is, it hasn't got them, but then I'm not sure that that's just because it might have had a replacement bumper fitted, as there doesn't seem to be a switch on the dashboard either - just a blanking plug/coin holder. How difficult are they to retro-fit? Would the wiring be under there already and it's just a simple case of sourcing and fitting the components?

Nice link, thanks for that. I reckon I'll have one of those, which leads me onto 2 questions: 1) Do any other members have any 3 button fobs that they'd like to sell? (If so please send me a PM) 2) Please could someone post a link to the re-programming instructions?

A full HPI check can be expensive, but a "mytextcheck" (www.mytextcheck.com) only costs £3 (plus standard network rate). I wish I'd remembered it when I bought mine! Just text the reg no to 83600 - well worth £3 for peace of mind.

My IS200 looks similar to the one in the first pic of this thread, and I've noticed that the rear lights are a bit of an issue. While they look fantastic on Platinum Ice coloured cars, on black ones they stand out as a bit "bling". However just a couple of days ago I saw the potential solution. I moved over to let a blue Altezza pass between J26 & J25 of the M1 between 7.30 and 8.00am. It was a nice dark blue, and the rear lights had body-coloured covers (or perhaps they were sprayed) which obscured all of the silver above the indicators and reverse lights. The effect was to make the rear quarter blend very neatly into the rear panel instead of breaking the two up, and yet the circular brake and tail-lights were enhanced to compliment the fog-lights more. Does anyone know if these are commercially available covers, and if so could they provide me with a link please? Or have I just got to get busy with the masking tape and a can of paint?

Oh I like that Jomo - how did you convert your original fob to that one?

I got completely fed up with my other keys clanking against the dash when driving. I'm not a particularly aggressive driver but it was happening under almost any conditions - accelerating, braking, changing gear, and as for speed bumps...grrr! So I bought a leather draw-string wallet to hang from the ignition key and shield the rest. Now blissful silence - aaaah! :-D

What colour is it? I have a black Sport, and one of the first things I bought when I got it a few months ago was a bottle of black Turtlewax Color Magic (shame they can't spell "Colour" properly!) which included a black Chipstick. Available from any Halfrauds. It's come up a treat.

Are the Snow and Traction Control buttons supposed to be backlit? I've noticed that my heated seat switches become illuminated when the side/headlamps come on, but the 2 other buttons don't. BCingU En.

Sort of related topic, but doesn't Lexus Sat Nav use the original stereo as part of the system? In the manual it appears to rely on inputs from the stereo when setting up/troubleshooting. I'm looking to install Lexus Sat Nav (I already have the wiring loom and CD unit), but wonder if I'll be forced to rely on my original stereo (with it's obligatory ERR3).

No I hadn't. I gave it a go, and sure enough, the nearside one had blown. That's good knowledge for the future - thanks. BCingU En :-)

Please could someone answer a question for me please? Unfortunately my car didn't come with a handbook, so I don't know exactly what some of the warning lights on the dashboard mean. Yesterday I noticed that my handbrake warning light had come on while driving. I thought that the micro-switch under the handbrake lever had possibly developed a fault, but after testing, it's fine. My next thought was that the brake fluid might be low, so I topped it up. No change. My last thought was that it could be a brake pad wear indicator, so I took off a front and a rear wheel. Not only had the pads got plenty of life in them, but I couldn't even find any wires for brake pad wear sensors. What I have found out is that the light goes out after the engine is first started and the handbrake released, but as soon as you brake using the pedal, it comes on again, and stays on until the engine is stopped. Can anyone look in their handbook to see if it answers why, and what is triggering it? BCingU En :-)

OK, I've made further headway. Through doing a search for "ABS reset" I found a topic which contained the following link: http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47053 It makes for pretty good reading - firstly because it nailed the resetting method, and secondly because it narrowed down the problem to exactly where I thought it was by confirming it with a fault code 31. The problem still isn't quite fixed yet (damn rain again!), but I'm now absolutely sure which sensor and wires need to be checked and possibly replaced. Also, I just had an offer on a replacement stereo (one with the CD slot at the top) accepted, so no more ERR3! Let's hope I've now broken the back of the job list... BCingU En :-)

Check all your wheel sensors are ok... they need to be flush into the little holes or there will be problems. The error codes your getting are all 4 of the wheel sensors which is impossible unless you have disconnected them and driven the car. This link will tell you all you need to know: http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47053 Note it will not reset itself you need to pump the brakes: "To clear fault codes, leave the jumper in place between terminals Tc and E1 with the key on, then pump the brake pedal eight or more times in three seconds or less. When codes are erased, the ABS light should flash two times per second." Nathan Please can anyone describe where to find the jumper and Tc & E1 terminals? BCingU En :-)

Thanks very much for your help, but doh! I found the fuses and removed them for the required time, but on replacing them the ABS light was still on and the Traction Control light was still flashing. Are you sure that method doesn't just clear engine ECU fault codes? Or does the engine ECU also control the ABS and Traction control? This is doing my head in - I'm going to just have to go back to the main dealer tomorrow and ask them for a proper diagnosis (which I thought I was getting first time round). BCingU En :-)

Oh that's even better - I'm getting fed up of having to re-program my radio stations, and losing the numbers on my trip counter! BCingU, En :-)

Thanks for the quick response Nik - that sounds reasonable (and very similar to what I'd heard from the local garage). I'll give it a go - when it stops raining! BCingU En. :-)

Hmm, isn't it strange how so many of these jobs can end up being related?!? I've learned an awful lot about my new Lexus this week. Like for example that it was shorter than it was supposed to be, and from both ends too! The spare wheel wouldn't fit into the wheel well because the boot floor and the rear panel were crumpled - I literally had to bash them back into shape. However I managed it, and from outside you'd never know that there had been a problem. The front held a few surprises too. There was hardly a single fastener holding the engine undertray to the front valance, or holding the inner wings inside the wheelarches. Not only that, but the reason the front foglamps wouldn't work (and that I'd got ABS and Traction Control warning lights) were that some complete IDIOT had spliced the offside foglamp wiring into the nearest ABS sensor with bullet connectors!!! So replacing the rear sensors as per the previous owner's advice was just a complete waste of money. All I had to do was repair the butchered wiring. The local Lexus dealership reset the ABS ECU for me, but this was before I'd had chance to properly solder the wires and so it threw up another error code within 5 miles. Does anyone know how to clear fault codes and reset the system without incurring costly visits to the main dealer? Then I can start really enjoying my lovely new car. BCingU En :-)

Yes, I think you're right - it IS a browser issue. I'm using Windows Vista on my laptop and Internet Explorer 8, but I tried it on my PC which runs XP and it still did the same - wierd. Hey, are those manuals on CD that you can buy off eBay for about a fiver any good, or just a rip off of something that's available to download for free? BCingU En :-)

Thanks for the link Tony, but it seems to have confused the hell out of my computer! Sorry to be a pain, but are you sure it still works? BCingU En :-)