ColinBarber

1 minute ago, Strenoob11 said:

Is it really that necessary? I dont have that kind of valve on my Saab 93 headlight washers

I couldn't say. Try without for a while and see how it goes. Test the washers after a couple of days and see if it immediately squirts as normal.

2 minutes ago, finchy40 said:

Doesn’t look like Steve has managed to change the title so I’ll open up a new thread for those of us wanting to discuss the cars coming onto the market. 

Please don't, I've changed the title.

2 hours ago, Keithok said:

i changed the pressure switch under the intake manifold and the light stays there flashing so im assuming its level sensor

level warning is orange, pressure is red.

That's true but it isn't common these days on something like the 1UZ-FE. It also isn't expected to be an issue on a cold engine as the valves will expand with heat and then close up the gap.

It's nothing specifically to do with EVs, it is a connected car issue which applies to all modern Lexus models.

11 hours ago, Keithok said:

only light on dash is oil light comes on and off as im driving

Is it the low level or low pressure oil warning?

You say it has always been down on power, I assume you know what a normal IS200 feel like then? As you say, they aren't quick cars to start with. Does it rev all the way to the redline?

5 hours ago, wivenhoe said:

Mine may have had an issue, they were massively over inflated at handover - although John said that is normal for new Lexus’s (probably for the long voyage).

No Lexus should be handed over to the customer with over inflated tyres. Yes they are over inflated on the RORO ship to avoid flat spots from the weeks a sea strapped down to the deck but each vehicle should go through a PDI before customer handover where these things are corrected. 

The part is just called a joint but I believe it to be a one way valve as there is an arrow on the body to show fluid direction.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166465451462

18 minutes ago, Jim1977 said:

in a few weeks I will be switching from charging the battery at night on off peak to just filling it with solar.

If you are on Octopus Intelligent Go tariff then continue to fill it 7.5p overnight and get 15p export for your solar.

1 hour ago, Mazdaz said:

Do you close the bonnet down on the cable? Bit concerned it might damage it.

You should find a gap between the front bonnet seal and headlight that the wires can pass through without being crushed. 

5 hours ago, bigglesfllesundone said:

There were only 78 GS450h series 4 facelifts registered in UK.

I think that's just for the Premier grade, there were close to 30 F Sports too so Lexus managed to sneak into three figures. The majority of GS sales at that time were for the 300h.

30 minutes ago, John Adams said:

I would be amazed if they lower the VAT rate to 10% on new ev's but you never know.

Indeed. They have been removing incentives over the last few years.

46 minutes ago, Strenoob11 said:

So i removed bumper and found that there is like a valve just before the washer itself that wasnt letting the fluid through and the fluid dripped from little hole from valve. I removed that valve and connected hose directly to washer. It seems both are working fine right now. What is the valve for?

There are some elbow connectors and joints, no description of a valve in the parts catalogue that I can see. Possibly it isn't a valve and just a blocked connector? Otherwise I imagine it would be a one way valve to stop the fluid draining back so it always squirts first time.

On 3/3/2024 at 10:17 AM, Pm4 said:

Thanks, I  knew my car was rubbish! 🤣 Still none the wiser.

Bus is a computing term meaning a shared communication path between components, essentially via copper wires either within a system or allowing multiple systems to communicate with each other.

CAN is an acronym for controller area network (hence why it is written in capital letters) - it is the specific protocol, or language, that is sent over the bus - like humans, two items communicating need a common language to understand each other.

Within the auto industry there are many different protocols used. Toyota/Lexus commonly use CAN, LIN, AVC-LAN and MOST.

The reason for using buses rather than discrete wiring is to save cost and allow more sophisticated features. Take the rear light clusters, (Toyota don't typically use CAN for rear lights but just as an example) - traditionally you have multiple wires, one for each function: rear light, brake, left indicator, right indicator, reverse and fog. That's 6 controls wires + ground. If you had sequential indicators you need two more wires for sequential mode rather than standard on/off required for hazard, so a total of 9 wires. If you had CAN controlled light clusters you can reduce to just 4 - +12v, ground and two CAN wires. If you want your mirrors to drop when in reverse, rather than a signal wire going to the mirror ECU, it can just listen for the reverse communication without needing any additional wires.

If you take it to the extreme, where modern matrix headlights are made up of 1,000+ individual LEDs that each can be controlled individually to block out the beam to oncoming traffic then that wouldn't be economically possible or reliable using discrete wiring.

This is why our insurance premiums are going through the roof. Everyone from manufacturers, body shops, hire companies and dealerships all making easy money from insurance work. 

31 minutes ago, larryadler said:

I do wonder, are these cars parked on driveways, or outside on the road. Are these owners fitting additional security, ghost, scorpion, steering wheel locks? 

There are several YouTube videos of Lexus being stolen from Ring type camera footage. Some are off driveways and others from the street outside the house. There are a couple where they have been stolen with a disklok fitted where they just use a Battery angle grinder to remove it.

1 hour ago, TheMcSame said:

That's fair, I do notice you're not based in the UK though. Perhaps that's more a product of having a climate better suited for running UHP year-round? Obviously, there's going to be compromises, especially in comparison to UHP summer tyres

I'm in the UK, I just don't want to advertise where on the internet and the forum software doesn't just give a generic UK option. CC2 are fine all year round in the UK, plenty of members here have them. Actually I'd say it is the perfect country to run them, especially if you aren't in the south (where you can realistically get away with summer tyres all year round if you are careful). Most northern European countries have harsher winters than we do, where they really need proper winter tyres for part of the year.

I was happy to have UHP on my GS F, not necessary on my previous IS300h F Sport.

1 hour ago, TheMcSame said:

Any other disadvantages to it? I aware a lot of options are able to retain in-car controls, support factory fit cameras, and the like. 

You certainly need to retain the standard controls - I think most will support that. You need to make sure whatever unit you are interested in supports then infotainment system you have as there are a couple of different options.

1 hour ago, TheMcSame said:

Presumably, it's largely a case of you get what you pay for?

I'm not so sure. Many people take the cheap Chinese products and repackage them and sell for a higher price - they might provide helpful installation advise but if they have no control over the firmware/software then you are stuck with bugs until the OEM issues an update, if they ever do. Hopefully other members here who have done this will be able to offer some advice. I've never do it, I just used a phone cradle and my smartphone for improved navigation and access to music etc.

Pin 3 on the fog light connector is for cornering lights, which is controlled via the headlight ECU. I don't know if it would be as simple as removing that pin from the connector and putting insulation table around it.

Some duct tape over that element of the fog light lens would be the simplest solution.

Not sure you would need to replace the LCAs on a 2020 vehicle.

Air intake is high, at the bonnet level, but not sure if the resonator is air/water tight that sits lower so I wouldn't be submerging the vehicle in any deep water.

CC2 tyres are a good choice. Not the ultimate in performance or economy but suit the IS300h quite well and give good grip all year round.

Carista is a good way to change the vehicle customisations that aren't available through the in-car menus. It can be expensive to subscribe long term but most people would only need one month's access and then don't touch it again. If you look in the owners manual at the customisations there are a bunch of options that are dealer configurable only - these you will be able to alter with Carista - e.g. how many indicator flashes on a light press of the stalk, how long the headlight stay on after you exit the car etc.

Standard infotainment is a bit rubbish. Many of the Android based third party options have good features but are flakey in operation.

Aftermarket air filters - directly OEM replacements are ok to save a couple of ££, although may not filter as well. So called performance ones are a complete waste of money on the IS300h unless you go for a complete induction kit - and even then the gains would be minimal at best.

24 minutes ago, Jennifer brown said:

What do you mean you don’t need to change the fuel filter I have a 2006 gs300 and I was told my fuel filter was bad that’s why my car isn’t starting up it cranks over but no start it did start up once and plutter then died now it won’t start battery is good too.

The fuel filter is attached to the pump in the fuel tank. It isn’t changed regularly as part of a service but clearly if you have a fuel delivery issue then the filter and pump should be inspected. 

4 hours ago, MrTrendizzle said:

The 500rpm is only when the battery starts to charge again almost like the alternator kicking in and the engine dropping the revs a little. It does raise back up and settle at 750rpm but the battery light comes back on and so the cycle repeats.

The alternator has a clutch, it is enabled/disabled as required. I suspect when it is enabled there is extra load on the engine which pulls the rpm down and then the idle is adjusted to compensate. I don't think it should be that severe, and I wouldn't expect the Battery light to come on at all - Lexus state that would only happen if the clutch or alternator have issues.

Did you get a new clutch with your alternator, or did you swap that over?

It sounds like the alternator isn't outputting enough at low speed and as a result has killed your old Battery. Not sure on the plug you are referring to on the alternator, will see if I can find some info.

11 hours ago, Andy B said:

The only slight issue with connecting to Lexus' suggested jump starter terminals under the bonnet (notably point D as referenced in the manual) is that the jump leads provided with most jump starter packs are notoriously short so may not stretch that far.

The recommendation seems to be Toyota's standard procedure when the Battery is in the engine bay - ideally you don't want to connect to the -ve on the Battery (which will cause a spark) in case there is hydrogen gas present so they suggest a remote connection. This precaution makes no sense when the Battery is located in the boot and your jump points are in the engine bay.

Any good earth point can be used.

5 hours ago, rz1c13 said:

So it turned out to be valve clearance issue - getting to near-zero... !

Are you saying the valve clearances closed up? I don't see how that is possible, wear can only cause the gap to increase between the cam lobe and follower/shim - unless something happened to the VVTi/timing.

1 hour ago, Lisa 102 said:

Thank you, it states this on the internet although not particularly referring to my car which is the long range, either way it’s pretty annoying.

The message is documented in the manual: