Vintagesixtysix

If you can’t pull a code or get any live data…… it’s going to be a bit of a fishing trip.

Whats your mileage?

Does it have any service history?

Any other mods?

Have you tried any of the magic potions re fuel / injector cleaners?

Are you getting white exhaust smoke pre or post the the power drop?

Maybe try and get an obd scan for faults.

if the scanner is a bit more sophisticated it can also give live readings so you can see what’s going /  or not going on when you hit that rev range you describe.

could be several things so difficult to know where to start….

Is it only when driving under load or replicates stationary.
Fuel pressure and delivery? 
Electrical?

etc etc

I guess so, didn’t have any problems with mine….. and I don’t think they’d been cracked in a long, long time.

They are a hex key plug with a reasonably deep fitting.
The drain plug is magnetic.

Sorry for the egg sucker but..…As always golden rule is be sure you can open the fill plug first…. Before draining. 😉

Expect extremely stinky and dirty oil.

Re- diff.

I used Castrol Transmax.
I checked…. I did order two so stand corrected.
You can still pick it up for around £15-20 a litre.

If your mobile enough to get under the back of the car and can undo two bolts ( fill plug first ) it’s a reasonably easy diy job

John- 24k seems very low for a diff.

Is that Toyota spec, experience or a mix of both?

The diff fluid change is a very simple process as long as the bolts come out without a fight. 
In my experience it would probably be booked as one hour even though it would take half the time.

+ cost of fluid (not even a litre)

+ new washers

If you decide to go for it…..

drop some photos or a vid if you can.

I only trimmed back the loose piece along the whole length of each window. I didn’t attempt a full delete.

I guess mine might have been in a more advanced state…. I don’t remember having a major issue with it.

But as Mr V describes I didn’t go for the lot…. and as I mentioned in my previous post no more peeling since.

It was just to tidy up as looked poor and sick of it catching when being washed.

Mine did exactly the same…

I got a new Stanley blade and a steel ruler and trimmed back all four.

They've not peeled back any further after four years plus.

Very nice…. I’m sure the beading will be awesome!

Same here…… everyone asking why I’m bothering when it will look the same next weekend!
There is some satisfaction  knowing that underneath all that she’s protected.

Not tried Harleys, looks good stuff can’t beat an old Skool carnuba.

Ive been going down the nano, ceramic  & graphine track for a little while now.

I’ve recently redone mine after first doing them three or four years ago.

I reused the original 3m drill attachment kit I bought, they’ve come up fine.

Im going to put new bulbs in also (halogen), try another set of the 200% plus brightness type on OEM.

I nearly took the plunge on some LED conversion type (OSRAM) but decided against.

Are we talking standard halogen headlamps?

In store today….

twin pack £2.49.

Oh and Javier…. Did you feel you got anything from the cataclean??

Statistical or otherwise??

Agreed looks like one of the front flanges from the header down pipes as it joins with the mid section. If it’s all original as Mr V said have a look if it will come apart and re-seal with new gasket and m10 bolts.

if it’s all a bit corroded then maybe a clean up, new gaskets and get away with a touch of welding.

How far you go might need to see what condition both flanges are in.

Pic of the mid section below, 

engine to the left.

Oh….. and I keep it very clean and use a hydrophobic coating. Maybe that’s a factor also??

Yes I remember my dad mentioning this one as back in the day (pre air con) especially on vans and wagons with large screens.

I haven’t noticed anything dramatic recently but I guess it depends on your conditions ( I’m urban only -5 on the dash yesterday )….. I’m sure our north of the border and Continental contributors will tell us to (person) up its not even double digit yet

(❄️😳❄️).

After the initial windscreen blast I do find going off Auto (AC) to screen and feet mode and incar circulated works best for me and tweak the fan speed down as it warms up.

Welcome….

You may already be aware that a lot of members are going to be auto so maybe not so many recommendations through experience.

Are you petrol or diesel ?

They’ve obviously made a firm decision to go no further as Colin has explained…. It’s going to come out of their local pocket.

Could be worth a try to go and ask as this is an unfortunate situation on both sides if they have another vehicle in the dealership or even your current  car (if it’s safe) that you could drive for an agreed time (two weeks?) to find another vehicle.

Not perfect either way.

Ahmed…. Your way out of my league 👌.

Always interesting stuff.

+1 on sensor please???

Edit: Matt…. Don’t know where Chris came from?. 🥴

It was a shame as I quite like this guy (Chris) and his reviews.
I’ve been a subscriber for a while.

I think he’s still got got the LS430 he did up as well.

You could tell he was quite intrigued to see what the 250 looked like…… then the realisation of it being the diesel model.

Great interior and spec as we all know ( inc a Lev stereo)

And agreed first thing I thought when he looked at it…. If you want to sell them wheels alone….. I might be interested! Lol

They’ve always been one of my favs.

Not a gambling man but I’m going 5th injector 😢

Anyone else fancy a punt?

Maybe we are going to get a short term price reprieve….🤞

https://www.reuters.com/markets/commodities/exclusive-britain-germany-push-g7-halt-biofuel-mandates-tame-food-prices-2022-06-23/

I’m going to take a punt at an abs sensor in the hub having a wobble for some reason.
They are easy to score if stripping everything down right back to the hub.

As above might be worth checking the connectors.

Shouldn’t really be affected by just a LFL wheel change though.

I thought some interesting facts in this article.

So many things play into this decision…… I’m glad I have reliability and driving pleasure in my mix of reasons.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/money/cars/article-10804657/Car-mileage-quarter-cars-Britains-roads-100k-miles-more.html

I thought the main issue that manufactures of older petrol engines ( including motorbikes etc) was around rubber and plastic parts.

Higher ethanol can cause drying ( brittleness) and deformity.

Ive actually seen in the flesh a motorbike petrol tank that has been deformed by higher ethanol.

it’s a bit like when you pick the wrong type of plastic pot out of the recycling to wash your paint brush in a solvent and it causes the pot to start shrivelling and deforming.

So replacing all those parts on the fuel delivery system with later model seems like a logical solution…. But as far as I can see it’s impossible to tell which.

Plus it would be no mean undertaking….. depending obviously on your skill set.