Vintagesixtysix

Good luck Sean!

Cant do any harm.

There was a recent thread around rust on the fuel tank area…. But that seems to be exceptional.

My areas of focus over last couple of years have been wheel arches and bottom of the doors inside around the crimps.

Seeking out the condition of the electrical grounds might be worth a look.

brings back a few memories….. with the spray pump etc.

I know I’ll never rust….. as I always seemed to be covered in the stuff.Lol.

Interesting…..

my experience is,

Mobil half a litre in 8-10k

Magnatec half a litre 8-10k

Shell Helix not a drop??

I flush every third ( no science ) and I’ve tried Liquid Moly Ceratec this time, slightly under dosed at a single bottle into the 6+ litres.

2 hours ago, Linas.P said:

That is rather controversial statement 😅

Not guilty m’lud….. 😇

Welcome….

Nothing wrong with an SE manual 250.

Good to see you picked the best colour too. 😉

Re Filter removal.

There is a Toyota specific tool on Amazon/eBay etc.

I bought the draper version.

Just helps getting a grip on and off…. and avoids the temptation to over tighten.

Rear diff is no major drama either.

Fill plug and drain plug are both female hex so easier than the manual gearbox plugs.

Same again make sure you can crack the fill plug first before dropping the fluids out.

If it hasn’t been changed in a long time…. Get ready for some pretty nasty oil!

The drain plug is magnetic so you’ll be able to see if you have any material stuck to it.

If you’re manual, might as well change the gearbox oil while your at it.

Replacement fluids are not expensive.

Fill plug is in a bit of a PIA position, ensure you can do that first. (24mm)

Drain plug is straight forward.

You will need a pump/syringe type affair to fill with fresh fluid.

+1 Malc…

Costs on running any small business have just soared in the last 24 months.

If you own your premises then it’s a completely different ball game.

If your GL area expect even higher.

No worries…

bit of a clumsy pic but I’m out and about at mo.

£200.

Try these guys not to far….

they did a really nice job on mine…. (Not a full cat back)

Don’t worry about the ‘cherry bomb’  bit…they own the trade mark so it’s a big bit of their business.

http://www.cherrybomb.co.uk/epages/wduqaub4xva7.mobile/?ObjectPath=/Shops/wduqaub4xva7

There is a bit of a roar at 70ish but not too ridiculous.

I know Ken hadn’t had a chance to reply yet but I think I know where your going Vlad…

Im thinking it’s probably a hub quote too….. IF….. it was a high quality OEM part (£200+ from dealer) or high quality equivalent £150ish…plus an hours labour ( depending where you are ) £75-£100….plus Rishi’s slice.

You could get to £300ish quite easily.

The killer detail is making sure it’s not a £60 pattern hub for that money.

I think Koyo are the OEM equivalent from memory, someone will correct me I’m sure if wrong but there are considerably cheaper options on eBay etc.

just keep away from the Chinese cheapo stuff.

You can buy the hub itself separately and they knock out of the arm on the front.

Last time I looked auto doc had several options with a spread of pricing.

As always depends on your budget and approach to parts vs value of car.

Nice to see a bit of Reynolds tubing aloft. 🇬🇧

Yes interesting, only being driven seven miles ish a week up until Covid and then it goes down a bit…. Lol.

It’s had a new Battery and I’m guessing those Bridgestones may not be original…. Just on age…. But could be.

If it’s been serviced then the only issues are going to be moisture in the exhaust not being burned off so would need checking front to back.

Rubber suspension parts deteriorating (but I’d expect to see a heads up on the mot if any signs).

bar that we know they’re pretty solid with 3k or even 100k+

My only worry with low milers on any marque is electrical and Im not keen on ultra low miles diesels.

Apart from that it looks mint!

Gav,

While not in the diesel Lexus world myself….. if my memory serves me well

I believe this was one of the most extensive covering most bases and with some positive outcomes.

As you say you may well have already seen it..

hope helps if not.

I can’t immediately find it…. But there was definitely a uk forum contributor that stripped down the top of the intake, throttle body etc not that long ago and stated it was quite clean.

So follow up to my diff issue.

My original was: 41110-53191   09 2005. GSE 20 MTM FGR= 43:12=3.583

Deciding on a replacement was a little tricky as I was not overly concerned about any kind of performance upgrade through different ratios, more around continued reliability and cost.

Going to have a look at any diffs in the flesh or discussions online, even with a video it’s still practically impossible to check how good it is out of the vehicle and at 35kg without fluids they’re not exactly lightweight.

So you have to trust your gut to what vehicle it came out of, age and mileage etc.

I previously mentioned that I was offered a diff from a 2008 auto which is a 3.9 ratio LSD.

At least I knew of the seller, it looked and felt ok and was in budget.

41110-53211 FGR=43:11=3.909

I was reasonably confident that mechanically it would fit dimensions wise, but my concerns were wether the car would throw a wobbly and give me an ESP issue through maybe the revs being different or the abs sensors.

New seals were ordered through Lexus, there were some significantly cheaper listings I found on eBay etc but decided to go with the real deal.

My Indy fitted the replacement without any major hiccups and I’m glad to report a couple of weeks later that all seems well.

No codes

There is definitely more pep to the acceleration.

Fuel economy ( using onboard computer ) doesn’t seem to be hugely different, maybe a fraction down mixed driving.  Although I went to a family event 60 odd mile round trip mostly motorway, filled up just before getting on and the trip went up to 40ish mpg at 70mph which is what I would of expected out of the old diff set up.

You can defiantly feel the power drop off more when you lift off the accelerator but it’s not jerky.

So she lives to fight another day!

I have an MOT in early Jan so we’re going to drop the diff oil then just out of interest.

Maybe check in with these guys and see if this is compatible.

https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/parts/lexus-is/lexus-is-phase-ii-2006-2013/lexus-is-2-engine-service-kits/lexus-is-phase-2-starter-battery/

Probably need to factor in some carriage cost.

Yes will do…..

D day next week as been waiting on seals order.

I want to know if the central carrier bearing is ok while under there.

So as suspected the bearings are dealer supply only….. there are no pattern bearings available according to the recon specialist.

It is obviously possible to recondition but would have to order individual parts as there is no recon kit available.

The parts guys I’ve spoken to at Lexus/ Toyota confirmed that the oem is an LSD.

New oem around £2k ( ISF guys look after yours as £5k…. Gulp)
 

The 2008 auto I’ve been offered best guess is…… 41110-53211 FGR=43:11=3.909

Ok thanks for confirming…..

I’ve got a call with a recon company tomorrow….. just to investigate another option.

Anything decent GT86 wise is £400-500 plus fitting.

Most of the Lexus stuff is old and difficult to know what condition it’s in….. but cheap.

Tricky….. as the car is not worth big money….. but otherwise running fine.

Anyone know if I was to use a different diff to stock…… does it change the speedo reading?

Thanks Lucas….. that clearly explains that.

I think I saw the GT86 diff discussion on a US site as I was looking for info…… and I believe interestingly the 350 & 400 series diffs being compatible in terms of fit ( push fit rather than the previous bolt on)

My car is the very basic spec ( & I mean basic )…… so was the LSD an optional extra I wonder rather than standard??

or are they all LSD??

I’ve also seen this label from an IS220……. Any clues on ratio?
 

Thank you both….. I did start to have a look at some of these types of products, as you say Paul not much to loose.

My Indy managed to squeeze her in yesterday and get it up on the ramp and also spin the wheels under drive.

it’s a bit worse than I thought and he’s advised me to do as little as possible if I can’t take it off the road immediately.

I asked about using anything of the magic potions and he thought I’d be wasting my time and money……. We had a joke about sawdust too! 😆

Hes a decent lad and probably being over cautious….. but his rule of thumb is if its a whine try the greases etc…… rumblings is the bearings squaring off so recon or replace it ASAP.

Ive been offered a used diff that seems in good condition from a is250 2008 auto with this label. They cannot see any other stamping on it.

Anyone know if it would be compatible?
Thanks

phil