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Hello, The most likely cause of this type of fault is usually associated with: A. a short circuit somewhere in the wiring loom where a permanently fed live circuit has been breached and is now making contact with an ignition or auxiliary fed circuit. B. a short circuit in an electrical or electronic component that is also causing a permanent live feed to remain present in a normally switched service. C. a component such as a relay or other switching device that would normally disconnect a switched service, but who's contacts have stuck or welded together, keeping the feed live. If you feel confident enough to try to locate this problem, I would start by removing each fuse in turn until you come across one that will switch off ALL of the affected services. (not just one of them as this could be the designated fuse to that one particular component) This is a very difficult and exact procedure that should be carried out by a qualified Auto Electrician, but if you intend to go in blind, then please take particular attention to the following points: 1) IMPORTANT! if your battery drains to the point where you can not restart, then please, please, please...DO NOT use jump leads to try to restart. Any surge experienced by either your own car or the donor vehicle during connection could cause a catastrophic failure in any of the ECU's in either vehicle. For safety's sake, remove the battery for bench charging - or at least, disconnect the battery's earth lead. 2) when replacing the battery after charge, leave the earth lead connection until last. 3) when removing fuses during your diagnosis, DO NOT disconnect any fuse or component associated with the air bag system 4) be prepared for some inconvenience should the security system and immobiliser loose it's programming and prevent you from restarting due to lock-out. 5) should this problem suddenly appear to right itself, it should not be left. It will most certainly return at some point -usually at the most inconvenient time. I am sorry if this seems to be a gloomy message, but I cannot recommend more highly, that you seek the help of a qualified auto-electrician. Kind Regards, Eric (Auto-Electrician)

Hello Simon, Looking at this logically, it would seem that somewhere in the system, there is a high resistance problem. High resistance in either the switching/controlling components, any where there is a connector or associated wiring due to poor fitting, dirty/corroded contacts,corroded wiring or component contamination due to dirt or water ingress. First, check to make sure that the terminals in the headlamp unit are clean and free from electrolysis or other contamination. Then check for similar problems at wiring harness connectors and also the fuses, again making sure that all connections are absolutely clean. Finally, check the earth connections are clean and making a good connection to ground. These are the common areas to cause high resistance which in turn creates heat, and ultimately expansion at the point of connection which is quite likely why you are getting an intermittent fault because as the resistive connector cools down again, the defective part is able to re-connect, and so the cycle goes. The safest and quickest way is to entrust the work to a professional auto electrician equipped with the right equipment to measure voltage drop at the various suspects and confirm: (a) he has identified the problem correctly (b) after completing the work, he can confirm that excessive voltage drop and resistance has been eliminated. Hope this Helps Kind Regards, Eric (auto-electrician)

Forgive me for making assumptions, but I presume that your attempts to clean your washer jets only for them to fail after a short time (so I presume they do actually deliver, albeit briefly) are down to a collection over time of scale, gunge and other associated particles accumulated over many years of use. If this is the case, then simply cleaning or fitting new jets won't help the situation as you will only drag more rubbish through to its narrowest point. What is needed is some careful deep cleaning of the reservoir, pump, non return valves and pipe lines. Can I suggest that you detach the washer jets and attach two lengths of plastic screen piping over the original pipework in order to extend it (available at most good motor factors for reasonable money) long enough to divert the water flow into a bucket. Next, flush out the reservoir tank with a hose pipe and then re-fill using a strong detergent or a solution of warm water and bicarb of soda. Next, run this mix through the washer system, allowing the solution to drain away through the extended pipes into the bucket, so as not to take the gloss off your paint work. When you have dispensed about 75% of the cleaning solution, stop the process and allow to stand for a couple of hours (leaving over-night is even better) Replenish the washer reservoir with clean, warm water so that we still have a weak cleaning solution, and again, run this through the system. Finally, refill the reservoir and run fresh water through as many times as you need in order to flush out the system completely. Replace your newly cleaned washer jets and all should be good. For good house-keeping, add some alcohol based screen-wash to keep it good. Never use washing up liquid as it congeals over time and never top up from the Kettle as this way, you introduce limescale. Hope this helps.. Kind Regards, Eric