How did you get the bolts undone without ripping the mount off the car, mine seem to be seized?

Had a rattle from under the car a few days ago and couldn't find the cause, anyway parked side on to the wind the other day and while stood next to it I heard the rattle. On looking under I noticed that the heat shield over the front exhaust box was loose. Has anyone replaced this item or can it be removed without hurting the car. I also noticed that the isn't one over the rear box.

Experience with my 400h on the flat the creep function is obvious, take your foot off the brakes and you instantly start to move forwards. On a slight incline it will hold though without throttle but rolls back on anything significant but doesn't run away. In the time it takes to move your foot from brake to accelerator it rolls back an inch or two if that. Reverse is the same also.

From what I've learned, each disc contains major roads for the whole of Europe but only detailed street mapping for the region on the disk.

I upgraded mine and yes inputs can be done on the move, but you still don't get full post code input.

I took mine off and left it off, not had any problems with the spare wheel getting hot from the exhaust. The mounting bolts are seized and when I tried to remove them it nearly ripped the mountings off.

I got mine from Lexus Birmingham on eBay just put in your car details and you'll find them. 

Genuine Lexus RX300#2, RX400h & RX350 Rear Caliper Pin & Boot Kit

£18.99 for the two.

We have the Toyota Safety Sense system on my wife's Yaris Hybrid, and I use the LDA function all the time on motorways. It's pointless anywhere else though, it does need good white lines to see though and the state of our motorways this is not always the case.

Cheers everyone. No I didn't have the water pump or idlers changed, the cost was as their fixed price tariffs £295.I would assume that if the water pump was about to go then it would show signs of leakage and so would have been spotted during the work. I work on the assumption that "if it aint broke, don't fix it". They must have reset something cos on the return 50 mile journey it averaged 31.8 mpg, it's never been that high since I got it.

Just had the cam belt changes at Lexus Bolton, very friendly people, fixed price with no extras. On the drive home noticed that the economy had improved from before so a reset of the ISC was probably needed.
On a second topic, will the techstream software carry out a hybrid Battery check or do Lexus use a different piece of kit?

Cheers Peter.

Yes but it's not electric or even a hybrid, it's another gas guzzler. If you can afford one of these then get a Tesla model X, I know I would!

I did mine just after I got it, the fronts are easy, you'll have no problems there. The rears will need a bit of thought as you will need to slacken off the handbrake shoes before you will be able to remove the rotor. Also one of my sliding pins had seized so I had to remove the carrier as well as the caliper. I'd get new ones just in case.

These are what you should see, the first is in the locked position the last is in the released position and the middle one is the catch on the cover. Check it's not damaged and that the latches are free.

2 hours ago, GSLV6 said:

Check out ALA; they'll provide GAP insurance much cheaper.

Find an insurance company that has a low voluntary excess and protect your no claims.  That'll be better than paying the cost of a minor damage insurance which'll cost you the same as the compulsory excess anyway.

As for body cover and protection, don't bother with it.  Clean your car, polish it, and apply some sealant such as Carlack68, Sonax Premium or CQuartz-CQUK and save yourself a fortune.

Sealant wont stop stone chips or the odd supermarket trolley rash. I got Toyota's chip insurance on my wife's Yaris and I've had them out to two stone chips, a scratch on the passenger side door and a scuffed rear bumper all at no cost to me apart from the £10 call out fee. If the car is on a PCP then the final value can be affected by dings and scrapes etc. Something to keep in mind.

See my previous post, it turned out to be the 3V Battery in the fob, changed that and all is now OK, but as the 12V Battery is so old I'd change it anyway. They are a peculiar Battery as it doesn't have a foot on the bottom i.e.a lip around the bottom. I've been told that it's also the same Battery as in a Toyota MR2. As this 12V Battery doesn't start the engine try looking for an AGM VRLA type Battery, these will take a deep discharge and may last longer.

Changed the Battery in the fob, no problems since.

This one is peculiar. The car had been stood for a few days and when I came to start it everything happened as it should except the ready light would not came on. Tried it a couple of times but still no good. The 12v Battery pulled in the HV Battery isolators as the various noises got faster i.e. the brake pressure pump got faster etc. So I tried a different key and it started, so I did my short run to the grandsons new flat and then used the original key to drive home with no problems.
1. does the key fob Battery power the key ID.
2. can the car "forget" the key, and then remember it again.

Cheers.

Same here, as it was an intermittent problem the ABS fault light did not come on.

The pulsating pedal means that the ABS is cutting in because it thinks that a wheel is about to lock up. I had this on an old disco and it turned out to be the front ABS wheel speed sensors. the cable to to them had broken but were making intermittent contact. Replaced those and the problem went away. I'd get this looked at sooner rather than later as your brakes are not working to their full potential.

I'm going to have to delve into the realm of Lexus dealers quite soon for my 100k service, my local Toyota garage didn't want to know so it looks like a trip to Lexus Bolton is on the cards. Hope they are better.I'll keep you posted.

I wouldn't even consider putting anything in front of the radiator because not only does it cool the engine bit it also cools the inverter and associated electronics which don't like getting warm. Plus the gearbox cooler is also at the front.

The ICE does cut in very quickly but I manage 30ish most of the time. I think the control software was changed for the 450h to use more of the Battery at lower speed, but I find that below 30 the Battery will push the car along easily, you just have to be gentle with the throttle.

According to the plate on my 400h the limit is 2000 kg. I tow a 1750 Kg caravan.

I thought the stop & tail lights on the RX were LED anyway.

My seats have a controller, you set the temp with a small knob then they come on and off depending on the setting.