LEDMaestro101

Hey all, Ok so I'm working through the list of troubles with my LS and I've come to the transmission or what I believe is a trans issue. A bit of background, when I bought the car it had very noticeable lag if you try and give it any more than 50-60% throttle, the lag would increase the more you try and floor it to the point where I'd be trying to join traffic, the car just wouldn't move and so (naturally) try and give it more gas by which time the gap in traffic has gone, I put foot on the brakes and the car surges forward from the lag. that has happened on too many occasions now. No error codes are thrown btw. So, I ran through 15 litres of ATF to clear out the old (black) fluid and it then topped up to the correct level as per the dipstick (the joys of the pre facelift!) but the symptoms are still present. The new fluid has helped dull down the feeling of the car upshifting (could never feel it downshift but always felt it upshift) but nothing else, still a hell of a lot of hesitation under any meaningful acceleration. This is my first LS so I don't have a base idea of how they are supposed to drive! it feels like it struggles to find a gear at times or when I put it into kick down, it shifts sequentially down through all the gears until it gets to 2nd (for example). I used to have an auto honda accord (literally the worst car I've ever owned) but that shifted straight from top to 2nd in an instant when put in kick down. The question, has anyone else experienced this? I've been reading a lot of posts about engine lag, cleaning MAF, TB, Air Filter engine coolant temp sensor etc but I've done those (and more) and nothing has helped. My next stop is the Pedal Position Sensor, I'm wondering if there is a dead zone in the Pot but I'm running out of money to throw at this car! If anyone has any thoughts/suggestions then please let me know. As a side note, might be unrelated but the engine is idling a bit rough, I've got spark plugs on my list to do but thought I'd add that bit of info in there just in case it's relevant. Thanks

Thanks for the tutorial bud, greatly appreciated. Ok so I’ve run a couple of tests and the error is only coming up when cruise is set. I’ve run the car without cruise on (no error), cruise on but not set (no error) but then whenever I set a speed or use any other part of normal cruise function, that’s when I get the error. Had a word with both my local Lexus dealers and neither of them have come across this error before 😂 oddly enough, sometimes the ‘resume’ speed function doesn’t always work, perhaps related, perhaps not. This will keep me busy for a while it seems haha

how odd, I always assumed it had 2 indicator lamps.....then again, the cars I've owned that had cruise were relatively new so had the "main" and "set" lamps. thanks for the warning Scott, I'll be sure to use a little *cough* persuasion if it's stubborn haha. I've swapped transmissions and rear Diffs out of IS200's so I'm sure swapping a hub will be relatively easy!

Ah yeah that’s a point, stupidity seems to have kicked in with me haha. Thanks for your reply though, that’s great information in there that I wasn’t previously aware of Not sure if having the cruise completely off trips the code, I’ll reset it tonight and not touch the cruise until my EML comes back on and see if it still shows that code. As for the functions, yep accel and decel work perfectly. Out of curiosity, should there be a light on the dash that shows when cruise has been set, not just switched on? All other cars I’ve had with cruise have two indicator lamps, one for when cruise system is on and one for when cruise is set. Can’t seem to find reference in the manual to what should be shown when on cruise. At the moment I turn cruise on when I get in the car, the green “cruise” comes on the dash but then nothing else when I actually set cruise. Just wanting clarification on that part.

Usually I would agree as that seems more logical but the sound is definitely coming from the NS rather than OS. Still, not an overly expensive part and only an hour to replace so I’m happy to do it, even just to rule it out

Yeah my (increasing) list of things to do include retro-fitting a rear camera along with parking sensors at some point! Got a new hub on order so I'll see how that goes when I get around to fitting haha

Yeah I’ve never seen it before nor heard of it. Yeah the hub is making a thudding noise, increases in frequency and intensity the faster the car goes and gets louder when turning to the left. I’ll change the hub and erase the codes as suggested. No it is the UL, comes with all the good stuff apart from parking sensors, which is taking some getting used to lol

Ok so I’ve picked up my 2000 LS430 (chuffed to bits!) but it appears I now have several error codes on the bloody thing! The most confusing is P1566, cruise control main switch (or words to that effect). Googling and forum searches have turned up nothing. I’m wondering if anyone else has experienced this? My cruise control is working fine but doesn’t tell me on the dash when I’ve activated cruise, only when I’ve turned the cruise system on when I start the car (unsure if it’s supposed to show when cruise is set) I’m certain my NSF wheel hub needs replacing, could a faulty hub interfere with the wheel speed sensor and throw the code? thanks 🙂

Hey thanks for your reply and the information. Yeah I read about US keys not working so staying well clear of them. Also heard of techstream but not sure if it’s worth the hassle. As you said though, further homework to be done on this. Would also like to have push button start rather than turning the ignition ring but that’s for another day haha. Thanks again for your help!

Hey all. Just a quick question with a slight twist. I've looked on the forum but can't find (Specifically) what I'm looking for. I'm picking up an X reg, 2000 LS430 in a couple of weeks and I'm itching to get back to keyless! my question is though, is it possible to program a new style Lexus smart key to the old LS? I've programmed loads of keys for various Lexi's but never a smart key. Just want to know if it could be done before I buy a used fob. Thanks 😄

Mine did have a small amount of corrosion but even after cleaning with PTFE and tidying up the metal tracks, it still gave me problems so, as I said, just left it unplugged.

Disconnecting is as simple as unplugging the connector in the sensor unit. I replaced mine with a known working unit and still the problem persisted so I just put the original back in and left it unplugged. J

Ok so basically had my IS200 for about 6-7 months and no problems. Just got back from a 500 mile round trip (mostly motorway driving) and now my once dead quiet gearbox is whining like there's no tomorrow. The only gear that doesn't whine is 5th for some reason. I've been through the forum and can't find anything like what I'm experiencing, as in where the car has been fine and then suddenly developed the problem. I've replaced the transmission oil but that hasn't solved it. Any help would be greatly appreciated :)

Hi Scudney, thanks for your reply. I replaced the battery in the fob last week (old one was knackered). I've just disconnected the sensor and hey presto the alarm is sound as a pound. There is a small amount of corrosion around the tracks from the sensor connector. I will clean them up with some PTFE spray after work and see if that solves the problem when I plug it back in. Thanks again J

Good evening all, my first post (but not my first visit) to this fine forum. I have recently bought myself an '03 IS200 Sport and am loving it....however, after a couple of weeks of no faults, Saturday the alarm started sounding about 15 seconds after I lock the car with the key fob and has done it since. I searched around on the forum and found that this could be caused by a number of things, one of which is due to low battery voltage. This leads me to speculate that my battery is slightly discharged. long story short, I've put footwell lights in and have been doing other minor modifications to the interior and have been leaving my door open for several hours at a time , I really should know better! Also, this morning I noticed my alternator fuse had been blown by the previous and they had bodge it back together with a picture hook! I replaced the fuse today after my internal electrics went dead but everything on the constant 12V feed was working. Everything is back to usual and I assumed that the battery would charge back up to its previous level on my way home from work, about a half hour drive. When I got home I reluctantly locked the car with the fob and about a minute later the alarm went off. I have also read that there could be a fault with the internal motion sensor in the dome light but, as I said, the alarm only started going off on Saturday and hadn't given me any trouble which leads me to my first theory. Basically, is there anything else that could be causing my alarm to go off when I lock the car? I checked the voltage and current draw on the (new) battery and it's all normal so could it just need a quick top up of juice? Sorry for the length of this novel! Any help or insight into this would be greatly appreciated :) Thanks J