Deffo sounds like a pulley (bearing) in the aux system, which one should be apparent after belt is removed, or ( at your own risk) you could improvise with a screwdriver stethoscope and check each driven unit, water pump, idler, AC etc.

So…..did you ever get to what was the source of your rattling noise you reported back in Dec 2021,

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/131180-grinding-noise-under-the-car-please-help/#comment-1212692

or is this the same issue and this is how it sounds today as you never reported an outcome back then?

Were those alloys known as ‘G-spider’ iirc?

scrub that!!! No they are different wheels🙄

If this helps it’s from the description in an eBay ad for rear pins kit

Item description from the sellerItem description from the seller

Is a known issue whereby the lifter oil drains downs and at start up it takes time to refill, there was a US TSB but I don’t think it happened here🙄 I can only foresee a problem if it ( the loud ticking noise) persists for more than a second or two or if it happens at Every start up regardless of soak time.

Trouble is they are Not! 50% of them anyway!

Gotta ask….are you saying you have a IS250 ( 2.5L V6 lump) that has had a head gasket fail? as you say ‘suspect head gasket failure’  what makes you come to this conclusion? Symptoms?

cheers Tex.👍

Most of the SE-L’s with less than 50k are over 8 grand! 
this was my valuation about 6 weeks ago!

This IS250 overheating problem turned out to have a peculiar cause, I am not saying it’s your fix but need to explore every Avenue in fault finding.

You got me doubting myself now….

So I Just went and crawled under car to put a magnetic pick up tool on sump! Deffo steel👍

On 10/18/2017 at 7:56 AM, johnatg said:

You shouldn't use copper washers with alloy sumps - they can set up corrosion due to electrode potentials.

Lexus sump plug washers should be fibre with an aluminium core.

I buy sump plug washers for all my cars from www.smartearlybird.co.uk - they list the correct washers for more or less every car on the road. in fact for IS250s they list two grades - a standard one and a superior one.

Done an oil change yesterday and found the area around the sump plug was damp with oil after using a Smartearlybird fibre washer last time🙄

The sump is in fact a steel construction and while I did put back another smartearlybird fibre washer I’m gonna have to keep my eye on it and poss get genuine! ( all torqued to 40 Nm✔️)

Got to add that I only removed the OS filter and because it was so clean I never attempted to go after the NS one, which actually looks a bit fiddly to say the least!

Something that may help in keeping the internals clean is the fact I have an improvised magnetic sump plug. I simply super glued a small ( less than the size of a paracetamol tablet) neo- diddly ( I know😂) magnet to the internal end of the sump plug. This I have done for all 6 cars in my household and it costs pennies.👍

some magnets at oil change time are ‘furrier’ than others, namely the Fiat 500🙄

I can’t see 300ml of oil making that much difference in a V6.

So today I decided to do an oil & filter change on the 250 at 48,460 miles ( 4,072 miles since last oil change) and while I was waiting for oil to completely drain I decide to have a peek inside the air box to check air filter ( all was fine, again only done 4k) but then noticed that if I removed the air box base I could easily remove and inspect the offside VVT oil filter in the side of the head. I was amazed how clean it was because I guess it has never been out from new! Goes to show that low mileage oil changes are really beneficial. Oil is cheap compared to engine problems!

picture is as it was removed, not cleaned!

Need to get OBD codes read as the car is ‘upset’ with something ( possibly!)

Looks a peach and surprised the owner is not on ‘here’ with the tech spec of car!

A consequence of this failed rubber flap type valve may be a damaged ML amplifier that is positioned to the right hand side in the boot. Excess water/spray may enter if flap is majorly defective and you live near a Ford for example!

Or you could get the Bosch ( like many others on here have) for £87 Del ( at the moment on flea bay)

S4 026 Bosch Car Battery 12V 70Ah Type 068 S4026

Yes it’s in manual and you use the two watchmaker looking screwdrivers in the spine of the toolkit in boot.

Dirty/scratched disc itself?

remove clock fascia and eject disc to inspect.

Depending where it is actually going ( it’s not a leak is it?) it may show up at mot time as a high HC reading on emissions.

“The reason has been posted multiple times in the past.”

Really???……not around here it hasn’t !

So are you saying somebody Does know Exactly what parts are Not compatible and are likely to/will fail?

You first then😂

Here we go…..’Cat amongst the Pigeons’ time….

If early 250 can/should only run on E5 and are not compatible with E10 ( only a 5% difference!) then as E10 is anything UPTO 10% Ethanol then check this vid out.😳

Ditto on the price of fuel, don’t hold your breath on it coming down, I can’t remember when prices have fallen on anything.🙄

The IS250 is nothing special with regards to servicing and any garage worth its salt should be able to do it all day long or they should’nt be calling themselves a ‘Garage’

DIY is quite realistic with basic tools and this is the route I take, as the car is now 15 years old then the ‘stamps in the book’ are not required for me as I have no intention of ever selling mine😀