Texas

Comedian, could you please check your RC-F manual for me and I'll have another go but yours being a 2015 might be different to my 2007 but I hope not!

paul m.

On 28 August 2017 at 9:28 PM, Comedian said:

On mine: while in reverse set the mirror position you want and press the seat memory button to store position. Mine didn't tilt enough when I got it. Took me months to find that out. They hid the info in the manual !!!! ;)

 

Sent from my STV100-4 using Tapatalk

 

 

I have tried this procedure and my mirrors don't seem to want to accept the 'new' position I put them in while in reverse. 

Pretty sure I am doing the sequence right and the mirrors do have full range of movement with joypad so not a mechanical issue I think?

any pointers anyone?

paul m.

Looks good, but don't be tempted to throw away the plastic mount, I reckon it must be plastic coated gold! See here for price 

6 hours ago, VrmmVrmm said:

It appears the thread has grown legs ...gone is the window problem which could cause great internal damage....to one whereby how a number plate is fitted...LOL

Yes, fair point but if your recommendation is carried out then hopefully a window 'reset' will alieviate the OP problem, however the number plate point was close to home for me anyhow and a quick direct response on that particular topic would have been suitable ( for me anyhow)

paul m.

14 hours ago, Tony Burke said:

Thanks guys. I had walked round the car, admiring the front number plate that I had screwed directly to the bumper (highly recommended). Maybe I pushed the button at that time but I would expect to notice the windows opening. Strange.

I only recently got my 250 and it has done similar low mileage by the previous owner ( approx 3500 per annum!) I have only put about 50 miles on it so far as I have been working away :(  but I have fitted a PO-40 module and when doing so I disconnected the Battery, so now the car is going to get all its sensor inputs from My style of driving!!!! Upto my other car ( 16 yr old MkIII 1.8 petrol Mondeo) it pulls like a Dozen Donkeys and wants to keep going so I am going to have to be a good boy to keep a clean license! Very impressed with it so far.

paul m.

Trying to find a link I had that explains a Soft ECU reset very well,.....

TaaDaaah...Found it.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

My other car is a MkIII Mondeo and I have been posting on the TalkFord forum for some time now, hopefully helping a lot of people overcome their problems and more importantly saving hard earned cash.

This link is for the ECU fitted to the Ford and explains exactly what a 'Drive Cycle' is and why it is required after a soft ECU reset, hope it explains a bit deeper. But put in quite simple terms I normally tell people that the ECU recieves info from numerous sensors to make 'Decisions'. These sensors have a 'normal range of operation' and if they got out of this range then the ECU can compensate and ultimately if it can't then it will go into a default mode of operation or 'Limp Home'. so when an ECU is powered up for the first time ( after Battery removal) then it likes to get aquainted with all its input sensors, the 'Drive Cycle' is required to make sure that all the sensors are put to use and recognised by the ECU.

paul m.

Well just went back inside the drivers door today as weather was brilliant ( Bank Holiday in UK so should have been raining!) and rewired the Loom as per 'JumboJake's' post and works a treat now, mirrors fold on first stage of locking just as I wanted.

cheers Paul M.

Sounds like he really don't wanna strip em down again and do a proper job!  

By proper I mean spend a bit of time ensuring all contact surfaces ( excluding the friction material of course) are cleaned with a small wire brush and then smeared with a bit of copper grease, the minimal time spent doing this can elevate this annoying squeal you now have and I bet he takes the time to do this procedure to his own daily driver to have a quiet ride! Basic's really but 9 times out of ten you won't get any squeal but on an auto car I feel the brakes are used a lot more at slow speeds than they would be on a manual car so best done.

paul m.

What would you call a " perfect Mk2 SE-L"?

paul m.

Clause (c) could potentially catch a few claimants out I would have thought but depends if the actual garage are on top of these conditions being adhered to.

paul m.

1 hour ago, Tyre Tread said:

I've just bought a 10 year old IS250 SE-L with under 60K miles on it and had exactly this issue on an intermittent basis. 

Because the engine is generally so smooth and quiet it worried me a lot and I thought I'd bought a pup.

The car has a full Lexus service history and oil changed every year at less then 6k miles per year.

I think what we tend to forget is that these low mileage cars have often done lots of short journeys and rarely if ever got warm and very rarely had a good long run. The mileage on my car was almost identical for each of the last four years before I bought it suggesting it probably did the same commute, day in day out. 6K miles equates to an annual daily mileage (assuming commute only on a five day week) of 24 miles a day  - that's a cold start at most every 12 miles, probably less when you knock off the odd weekend run to the shops and other short running about at weekends. Add into the mix that if the car is being used as above then its unlikely its ever being revved above 2.5K-3K rpm and it would be surprising if its not got some carbon build up.

After a few long runs (for the fits couple of month I hardly used the car but when I did it was for runs over 50 miles) and a bit of an Italian tune up it stopped happening and now the car runs really sweet and somehow feels smoother and revs more cleanly.

Hopefully I've heard the lat of it. Been using the car for a week or so on commutes now (80+miles per day round trip)  and haven't heard anything out of the ordinary.

I hope yours is the same.

 

Fingers crossed!

Almost exactly the same scenario as myself ( recently got a ten year old SE-L with FLSH and standing at just under 38,000 miles) a London based car that prob had a parking space each end of it's ( my estimate) 15 mile a day commute as the body work is in an excellent condition. But now I have it the journeys will be at least twice as long but the number of them will be greatly reduced.

I have always religiously changed all of our vehicles engine oil/filters @ 5,000 miles and will continue to do so with the IS ( probably could use the Fully Synthetic that comes out of the IS in son's polo ha!)

paul m.

Question 'Shahpor' I can see that your car is down as a 2008 year so does this mean that next year ( when the car will be 10 years old) the warranty will no longer be available as I recall there was a ten year old vehicle limitation?

paul m.

Do you get Warranty or Not? Crystal Ball required on this topic I feel.

But I'm getting the feeling it's not the actual car ( like I mentioned previous the 250 is One of the most reliable cars out there for actual breakdowns, meaning unable to drive) but piece of mind for the owner as a precautionary measure somehow? So some people will lean to paying a ( let's face it, significant) fee for this and others ( ie Me) will not. 

Paul m.

1 hour ago, cunning_alias said:

Just incase anyone finds this who has the same issue. It appears to be a dead 'break light switch'. 

Was it actually the switch failed ( therefore NO brake lights would work) or will this warning come up if you had only One lamp that has failed?

paul m.

Reverse up against a wall ( if you have no friends to help!) and check brake light lamps ( X3) are working.

Bigest problem might be getting seller of your potential second/third(is it possible to have more than two) key to confirm that it has been erased. 

Paul m.

+1 on 'funding your own warranty' so to speak with what you would have given to pay for one, did not realise the 10 year stipulation so that counts me out on that front anyway. Like I (and others) have mentioned you choose to own a known uber reliable car and then consider extra warranties? .have faith is what I say and if I would have covered all my motoring years with warranties then I dread to think what it would have cost and I can't really remember any bank busting repairs ( that prob wouldn't have been covered anyway!!!).

paul m.

I am doubting myself as to ' should I write this'. ( don't want to go and jinx myself)

Very recently ( done about 35 miles in it so far I reckon!) bought myself an IS250 SE-L after much shopping around and looking at some that were overpriced/defective am now the proud owner of a 37k mile 57 Plate I think beauty ( got Sunroof and Active Cruise) but no Dealer Warranty or such like.....I like to think that one of the most (  if not the most ) reliable cars out there might not be such a gamble to have without a warranty. Only time may tell but I do not intend abusing this car in the slightest and will prob do about 4K a year so fingers crossed it may be (expensive) trouble free. ( famous last words)

paul m.

How 'easy' was it to actually change the digitiser in the unit once the unit has been removed from dash.

the reason I ask this is not because my digitiser has failed but if it ever does then as I have had the entertainment unit out of the dash recently and now know how easy that is then I can decide whether to take on doing the screen change myself or not as the case may be.

Thank you Jumbojake very helpful.

Thanks chaps, Deffo going back in there then.

paul m.

Mirrors do indeed fold fine on deadlocking, but to be honest I don't always dead lock my cars when locking them up, naughty boy! But I do want the mirrors folded to confirm the car is at least locked to first stage.

will go in and try and sort it some time!

paul m.

41 minutes ago, dougie175 said:

don't ask me which wires I used as I honestly cant remember and its the only mod I have done I haven't documented but it has works flawlessly for 18 months.

 

That's exactly what I wanna ask, which wires did you use to achieve this!!!!!!!!

i followed instructions to the letter but it mentions nothing about deadlocking anywhere.

might get amongst it later and check to find which colour wires actually give a pulse on lock/unlock in connector 'C' according to instructions this is what is required.

That's good to know then ( dead locking required to fold mirrors)

As for the Frost then yes, prevention is better then fixing....

I have seen ( maybe on ClubLexus Site) that the mirrors folding motor drive and gearing system can be 'serviced' and lubed to maintain it in tip top condition.

cheers Paul M.